(Part 3) Top products from r/buildapc

I hate to say it, but there's a lot that could be better about your current build. The 6700 is in a bit of a strange place as a CPU. It has a bunch of cores, but it can't reach very high clock speeds and it can't overclock, which means you aren't utilizing the full potential of your Z170 motherboard. I'd change it to an i5 6600k. There are less cores, but that won't make a difference unless you're editing videos. It can be overclocked, too. It's just a better option for you.

The Hyper 212 is a great cooler, but it's loud and other options have recently come to the table that are more quiet and of higher quality. Among them is the Cryorig H7, which I think is the best in it's class of budget coolers.

There's nothing wrong with the motherboard you chose, but the Gigabyte Gaming 5 has more USB ports. Plus, Gigabyte's customer service is a lot better than Asus in my experience.

The RAM is fine. You could find an equal product for like $10 less, but it's not a huge difference. It a good product and there's no harm in keeping it.

Life without an SSD is just unbearable. There's no reason not to get an SSD these days when the prices are so much lower than they were before. Keep your 2 TB drive for storage, but I'd add a 256-512 GB SSD for your operating system, apps, and favorite games. Trust me when I say it's worth it. Would you rather boot your computer in a minute or 10 seconds?

For your purposes, the GTX 1070 will be a much better place to start. The 1070 will be able to run games on max settings at 1080p 144 FPS at least 1.5-2 years down the line. You'll be much happier with that than you would with the 1060.

The 500R retails for $99, so I don't know how you found that. There are a number of great cases that you could get around that price point. Find a mid tower ATX case that you think looks nice and go for it. I'd recommend the Fractal Design R5. It's easy to build in and looks simple and clean.

The NEX line is generally considered to be unreliable. The G2 line is of a much higher quality for only a little more money. I'd recommend going for that. If not EVGA, then look at Corsair and Seasonic PSUs. They make very good units.

You don't really need an optical drive for anything but installing Windows. I'd ditch the optical drive and get a Windows 10 USB (It costs $110). You won't be using a disc drive for much unless you have a huge CD collection with you at college, anyways.

Operating system is fine.

Paying for anti virus solutions these days is not very fruitful. Windows Defender is adequate comes default with Windows 10. If you want extra protection, download Avira for free. You'll get the occasional ad, but it offers great protection without intruding too much. Definitely download Malwarebytes.

Don't buy a sound card. They're worthless in the face of USB DACs. The AudioQuest Dragonfly is a good cheap DAC. The Schiit Modi and ODAC are better for more money.

Wired network adapters are for connecting to a second wired network. Not meny people do that, and I don't think you're one of them. You can run a wired connection from your motherboard.

That wireless adapter is too expensive. Get a Gigabyte or TP-Link adapter for under $40 and you'll be just a happy.

Most cases come with an ample amount of fans, and Corsair fans are not the best ones to buy if you need extras. I'd advise against getting extra case fans. You just don't need them. If you really want them, though, look at Noctua. Most of their fans are poop brown color, but they work really well.

The Acer is about as good as you're going to get if you want a cheap 144hz monitor. No need to change this.

The only good Razer product to this day is the Deathadder mouse, so I put it on your list instead of the RAT 7, which is notorious for breaking a lot. In place of the Blackwidow, which is pretty much a knockoff mechanical keyboard, I chose a slightly more expensive but much better keyboard. MX browns are relatively quiet and versatile switches that are just as good for freshman writing seminar as they are for gaming. It has RGB backlights, too!

The Razer Kraken is BAD. It's really bad. Just don't bother with it. I'd normally recommend the Sennheiser HD 558/598s with an Antlion Modmic, but that totals to $200, so I just put down the Kingston HyperX Cloud. It's $3 more dollars for a much better headset.

Here's a rule: $20 are bad. For $20, the improvement you get over your monitor speakers is minimal at best. Either save some money and buy a set once you have $100 to spend, or stick to monitor speakers and headphones. I chose headphones, so I can't give too much advice here.

Anyways, here's the list I put together for you:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $151.75 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $93.99 @ Jet
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $164.99 @ Jet
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $71.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $407.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $84.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Jet
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $90.72 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $37.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $188.83 @ Jet
Mouse | Razer DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse | $49.96 @ Amazon
Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $96.95 @ Amazon
Other | iKBC F87 RGB Double-Shot PBT Tenkeyless Compact Size Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Cherry MX Black Switch, Black | $126.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1907.11
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 04:35 EST-0500 |

$60 less and it'll last a good year longer. Probably more. Whatever happens, good luck!

I would say, if you could spend the money, get this

Acer Predator XB271HU bmiprz 27" WQHD (2560x1440) NVIDIA G-SYNC IPS Monitor, (Display Port & HDMI Port, 144Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXZ3QBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z6CACbRHJZAGJ

I purchased this monitor and have been very happy. 27" for me is plenty for gaming. Honestly 32" seems great on paper, but using it tends to make me have to look too far to corners of the screen to be efficient when playing. It's a IPS panel, which will have better colors than a TN. With the IPS you get 4ms response. But let's be honest, noticing the difference between 1ms and 4ms is nearly impossible, and shouldn't matter even to most competitive professional gamers. 1440p is nice, especially for the specs your PC has. It's not that much more hard on your PC to run at 1440p over 1080p, and it's NOTICEABLY more crisp, and allows more screen real estate. (Running at 4k is a different story, that is a difference in FPS drop). This monitor also has G-Sync which is amazing for gaming as well. Super smooth. Also, forget curved. It's just a marketing tool. And even if it wasnt, it's not going to add to your experience at 27"-32" imho

If this is not something you want, I'd say definitely go for 1440p if you intend to have a 27"+ screen. And opt for IPS panels and sacrifice a few ms response. G-Sync is a very nice plus, but may add an extra $70-100 to the monitor. (Not the most important feature, but a great touch, especially if you're not getting the 100+ frames tour desire in some games).

Good luck bud

Also, I'm using the same Asus as you for my secondary.

Hi there!

It'd be super cool if we could get a PCPartPicker on this, so I went ahead and made one for you based on what parts you listed :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $329.88 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Swiftech H220-X 55.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler |-
Motherboard | MSI Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $269.00 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $82.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $164.99 @ Jet
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $118.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $629.98 @ B&H
Power Supply | Thermaltake 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $144.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1740.71
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-05 23:03 EST-0500 |

My thoughts, first off, what are you planning to do with this? I'll tell you off the bat that the PSU is waaaaay overkill for what you're doing. You could probably go for a PSU at the 650W level and meet all of your requirements. If you're overclocking everything, maybe go tops 750W. EVGA makes good PSU's, here's one as an example! Amazon EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2

Also, based on your usage, I'd guess that the i7 might be overkill, and you could probably get away with an i5-6600k, but it depends again on your usage (although, in MOST cases, this will be a sufficient CPU)

Also, liquid cooling solution? Any reason for that over the typical air-based cooler? It won't necessarily be any quieter than some air-based options available, and the one you've got is a bit... on the robust side. It's a really good one from what I've been made to believe, but I'm not 100% sure it's necessary (unless you really, really want to go the liquid cooling option, then it's probably close to being the best one you can buy).

HDD wise, technically black performs better than the blues, but you might be able to find a more affordable blue option as an example, and pay half the price. And in terms of performing better, in most cases, depending on your use, you will probably not even notice the difference.

SSD is solid, I love the EVOs.

What are you thinking for a case? Didn't see it listed, unless I just looked over it.

Let us know! Hopefully I've been of some help!

Catching fire? I haven't heard of anything like that, but knowing Amazon reviews people could be complaining just to try and score free stuff. It's a real cesspool there, about as helpful as YouTube comments.

Anyway, here's my UPS mini-guide:

For UPSs, you need to worry about two main things; the UPS design type and the wattage rating.

---

For UPS design types, there are 3 main categories.

• A "standby" UPS switches from wall power to battery power when it senses a drop in voltage using a mechanical switch.
  
• A "line-interactive" UPS replaces that mechanical switch with a transformer and some more intelligent circuitry.
  
• An "online" UPS actually runs the load on battery at all times, isolating your equipment from the wall power as much as possible.
  
  A line-interactive UPS is good for most gaming PCs , since standby units can be really hit-or-miss. If you have the cash to shell out, an online UPS is even better but for most people is way overkill.
  
  ---
  
  For wattage rating, you need to at minimum match the actual power draw of your computer when at full load. The best method is to use a power meter like the Kill-A-Watt, but not everyone has access to one.
  
  To conservatively estimate this without a power meter, take the TDP or wattage rating of all your components and multiply it by 1.3 to account for varying (in)efficiencies of PSUs. If you don't know your components' TDP, you can get a tally by putting all your parts into PCPartPicker and checking the power symbol on the top right. If you really don't want to do all that work and just want an easy safe but probably overkill choice, then multiply your PSU's wattage rating by 1.25.
  
  Don't forget to include your monitor, modem, router, and any other peripherals that you want to include on the UPS!
  
  ---
  
  For general UPS vendor recommendation: The CyberPower AVR (CPxxxxAVR) series and the Tripp-Lite Smart LCD Tower (SMARTxxxxLCDT) series are great line-interactive units for most home use. The Tripp-Lite OmniSmart, CyberPower PFC, and APC Back-Ups Pro lines are a bit of a step up, but not exorbitant overkill.
  
  Be SURE that you are looking at the wattage rating and not the volt-amp (VA) rating of your prospective UPS. The UPS's wattage rating is generally 60% of its VA rating. Most UPS units are marketed by their VA ratings, so be careful.
  

Change the SSD. The Crucial MX100 is cheaper and better.

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411622882&sr=8-1&keywords=crucial+mx100+256gb

You could also get a Corsair CX600M for $20 cheaper and it'd be way more than enough to run the system. Or, an EVGA Supernova 750G2 for $15 cheaper.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139048&cm_re=cx600m-_-17-139-048-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

For the price I'd say the EVGA looks the best.

The case looks good. Another alternative if you want a lot more cooling is the Rosewill Blackhawk, but it looks more flashy and perhaps less refined.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107

As for the keyboard, honestly I'd not even think about going with such a basic keyboard unless it was for a very budget build. You'll be better served by getting something like the CM Storm Devastator Mouse/Keyboard combo. The keyboard is available either Red or Blue backlit and is pretty good for typing because it has well-spaced keys and good key travel. The mouse has buttons for adjusting DPI on the fly and side buttons you can use while gaming. Even if you already have a better mouse, it'd work great as a backup.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZVP71A/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The rest looks solid. Good luck!

Well, since you asked nicely:

For UPSs, there are two main things to look for: the UPS design type and the wattage rating.

---

For UPS design types, there are 3 main categories.

• A "standby" UPS switches from wall power to battery power when it senses a drop in voltage using a mechanical switch.
  
• A "line-interactive" UPS augments that mechanical switch with a transformer for under/over voltage correction, and adds some more intelligent circuitry. These are often tagged with "AVR" for "automatic voltage regulator"
  
• An "online" UPS actually runs the load on battery at all times, isolating your equipment from the wall power as much as possible.
  
  A line-interactive UPS is good for most gaming PCs, since standby units can be really hit-or-miss. The voltage regulation alone can save a lot of wear and tear on your hardware. If you have the cash to shell out, an online UPS is even better but for most people is just a luxury.
  
  ---
  
  For wattage rating, you need to at minimum match the actual power draw of your computer when at full load. The best method is to use a power meter like the Kill-A-Watt, but not everyone has access to one.
  
  To conservatively estimate this without a power meter, take the TDP or wattage rating of all your components and multiply it by 1.3 to account for varying (in)efficiencies of PSUs. If you don't know your components' TDP, you can get a tally by putting all your parts into PCPartPicker and checking the power symbol on the top right. If you really don't want to do all that work and just want an easy, safe choice, then multiply your PSU's wattage rating by 1.25.
  
  Don't forget to also and separately include your monitor, modem, router, printer, and any other peripherals that you want to plug into the UPS! Having your router and modem on a UPS is a nice perk, since you'll likely still be able to have Internet access for your portable devices during a power outage.
  
  ---
  
  For general UPS vendor recommendation: The CyberPower AVR (CPxxxxAVR) series and the Tripp-Lite Smart LCD Tower (SMARTxxxxLCDT) series are great line-interactive units for most home use. The Tripp-Lite OmniSmart, CyberPower PFC, and APC Back-Ups Pro lines are a bit of a step up.
  
  Be SURE that you are looking at the wattage rating and not the volt-amp (VA) rating of your prospective UPS. The UPS's wattage rating is generally 60% of its VA rating. Most UPS units are marketed by their VA ratings, so be careful.
  
  When you install the UPS, a large portion of the benefit is that your computer can automatically shut down when it is low on battery. This saves you from those harmful forced power-offs when the power is cut while you're away. Be sure to plug in that USB connection! Almost all UPSs from the major vendors come with this connection for your computer. I wouldn't bother with a unit that doesn't. Windows 10 seems to recognize most UPS units natively, but you may need to install software/drivers if it doesn't.
  
  ---
  
  Edit: clarified line interactive units, USB plugging, etc.

• Will he actually require a m.2 ssd? I'm not saying its not good but for the same price you can grab him a 1TB ssd rather than a 512. Just a suggestion. Not saying you should do this. :P
  
  
• You should test out mice with him. G502 is a good mouse but not for everyone. There are other mice like the Zowie FK1/2, EC1/2, Deathadder, etc. that fit people better. Finding the right mouse is everything for a gamer. Also, make sure to buy him a good mousepad to go with the mouse. There are a lot out there so a bit of research will be needed lol.
  
  
• Watercooling is nice and all but they go out sooner than later. Multiple builds in the family that have had water cooling go out within a year or two. Cheaper to replace fans than it is water cooling. Really good systems for air cooling that will keep temps down, even at high over-clocks.
  
  
• A gamer is never complete without a gaming headset. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW goes on sale every other week for ~56$. Add https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FNMCF7A6N6YMCZBEK9RD to that and it's the best gaming headset you can buy for under 150$ (ask anyone here). You can go for the slightly better http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sennheiser-audiophile-over-the-ear-headphones-titan/1700513.p?skuId=1700513 but you will need to modify it slightly (easy to do): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_fd3PzoTeY

Ok thanks man you’ve been a really great help, really appreciate it. Just one more question (sorry!); The Acronis information on the SanDisk website says: “you will need at least one WD branded or SanDisk branded HDD or SSD as source drive or destination drive for this program to perform cloning.”

My HDD is a bog-standard Seagate ST1000DM003 which isn’t a WD or SanDisk branded source drive. Is it necessary to have a WD or a SanDISK HDD/source drive, or is it just the SSD which needs to be SanDisk branded?

I get that SanDisk is a WD brand, so you’d expect it to work, however about 3 or 4 reviews on Amazon claim that the Acronis cloning software doesn’t work, and required them to pay $30 for the full Acronis version, rather than the WD Edition. Maybe it will be best to go for the intel SSD or even another brand.

1 TB Western Digital $58

1 TB Seagate $53

2 TB Seagate $83.50

3 TB Seagate $102.80

Any of those would be good choices. Like others mentioned, WD Blues only go up to 1 TB. WD blacks are pretty much over priced, so Seagate is the better choice above 1 TB. The Seagate 1TB drive actually performs a little better than the WD 1 TB. As for WD being more reliable than Seagate, I don't really know if that's true or not.

Things to consider: Cache size, RPM and platter density. Seems like 64MB cache, 7200 RPM and 1 TB platter size is the best bang for the buck right now. All those drives above share those specs.

Your question about drivers is a great one and one that I had troubles getting answers to as well. It may be covered off by another reply but here was my experience on my first time build this weekend.
1)Built PC
2)Plugged wireless mouse/keyboard into USB drive
2)Turned on PC booted to Bios succesfully
3)Turned of PC
4)Inserted Windows 10 USB that i purchased from Amazon into the USB 3.0 port on the front of my case.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473791516&sr=8-2&keywords=windows+10
4)Inserted LAN cable into the back of the PC
5) Turned the computer back on.
6) Windows prompt popped up asking if i wanted to install windows 10.
7) Followed the prompts for set-up. (This took 10 minutes tops) so streamlined and simple for a guy that doesn't claim to be super technical.
8) On a different PC with internet access i went to my motherboard manufactures website (MSI Gaming M3).
9) Navigated to the driver download list.
10) Located the most recent LAN driver.
11) Saved it to a USB
12) Inserted the USB into my newly built computer.
13) Opened and installed the file from the USB.
14) Once this was installed Windows 10 recognized my LAN connection
15) Windows automatically identifies all drivers that need updating, downloads and installs them.

I had a ton of heartburn around the process and was amazed out how easily it all worked. Good luck and thanks for your service. Also all of your research and time spent on this sub will totally payoff. Enjoy!

I don't know much about the XFX TS line of PSU's, apparently some people have problems with it being DOA or dying within a couple of weeks, but some say it's great. YMMV.

The r7 260x is good for what your friend will need it. It will do fine with LoL on high or ultra, but then again, many cards can do this, even after the recent visual updates. But at $100, it beats many options (750ti for example, even though the 750ti uses almost 50% of the power that the r7 260x uses).

Also, if your friend is a student or part of a schooling/university program or part of a work program that allows discounted/free OS, look into it. Often times universities (such as mine) will include an OS key in your "technology payment". I got a 64x Win 8.1 key for free because of this. And if you're able to get the free OS, you can either choose to save $90 off the total, or use the extra $90 to upgrade parts or add a 256gb SSD

You should switch the 1070Ti for a Vega 64 that is going for $400 now. Then buy a monitor with the same specs as yours except add FreeSync. With the money you save, you can buy a 1TB ADATA XPG 8200, That is 3x the speed of an 860evo.

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/adata/product/ASX8200NP-960GT-C/ - $157.00 w/code CYBER20.

This is a way better SSD. Secondly, I'd get this monitor: https://m.newegg.com/products/0JC-0081-00016?ignorebbr=true&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Gaming+Monitors-_-0JC-0081-00016&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=CjwKCAiA0O7fBRASEiwAYI9QArke4IV60srQdwSQext8pHe-xCFr1FEmt9RtQKenrCscC52QtJxlIhoCS-sQAvD_BwE
You'll save ~230$ or so with FreeSync. You'll save another $70 with this Vega 64: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814202326
You also get 3 FREE games worth $150.
With all this money saved, drop the wifi adapter for another $60 saved. Then pick up a Ryzen 2700x. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543247961&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ryzen+2700x&psc=1
This deal is only 65$ more. Then pick up a X470 motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/TUF-X470-Plus-Gaming-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C5YR3KS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543248089&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=x470+motherboard+wifi&dpPl=1&dpID=51F37Nfqa0L&ref=plSrch
This is a great motherboard with WiFi. You can find a different one either wifi, and probably get a better deal. This will run you 130$, so around $60 more. Your PSU is meh. This one is the same price and is AMAZING. https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543248296&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=evga+supernova+650
Great deal for $5 less. You save around $250 for a much better build overall.

Okay, he's got pretty good hardware. If it was my computer, I'd be looking at 1440p 144Hz G-SYNC monitors. 4k and 1080p monitors are worth considering, I guess, but I think 1440p is where it's at for that GPU

The brand isn't terribly important, as long as the specifications are good. Whether or not curved is better is subjective, but most people like curved monitors. Monitors with IPS panels will have better colors, but non-IPS displays are fine

And if he's going to want to buy a third party stand or wall mount, you need a monitor that's VESA-compatiable. Most of the nice monitors are

On top of that, some guys put effort into making their desk look nice and having all their stuff match. Have a look at his desk and try to get a monitor that looks good with his keyboard/mouse/tower

Finally, as an example of what to look for, here's a monitor I've seen recommended a few times - https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB271HU-Abmiprz-2560x1440/dp/B06ZXZ3QBD/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541263823&sr=1-3

I can't really point you to some big great peer reviewed monitor book but I can make a recommendation. I have this monitor and its been great for the two years I've had it. It's not even half your budget however but unless you want to spend more money for 144hz and stuff this is just a good nicely built monitor with great colors and its strong. No dead pixels in the two years I've had it and the stand is pretty sturdy although there isn't much room for adjusting the screen and rotating it. Looks good in my opinion. If you do get it (or any other monitor really) look up some guides on color calibration to get the best settings.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $190.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus H110M-E/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $36.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB GTR Video Card | $249.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $62.99 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $79.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer R240HY bidx 23.8" 60Hz Monitor | $119.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $939.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $919.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-21 23:25 EST-0500 |

Monitor is 119.99 with Amazon Prime but you should consider this or this.

The XFX GTR is hands down the best aftermarket rx 480 (check reviews online) available. It's usually near $300.00 but there is an ongoing sale that helps you save $50. So it drops to $250.00 (which is a steal imo).

I'm not usually one for rebate as it takes a while to receive and by then you'll usually have forgotten about it as well so you'll feel that the price is without the rebate. However that's just me, do as you see fit.

Decamarks didn't include windows 10 with his build? It's included in mine. With Rebate and maybe switching of the monitors, you have about $30-50 for an extra SSD of 120 GB for your OS to run off of. I suggest this if you can fit it in your build.

As for the Memory, I went for the cheapest while still maintaining decent ratings, (there are cheaper memory sticks out there). For the PSU, I went with Seasonic as you do not the 750w with the build unless you are planning on SLI in the future. I kept your case the same as that is entirely up to your personal preference. I hope this helps.

Edit: Also if you want a more popular mobo (the one I have in the build currently is fine ), consider this. But keep in mind, this will push the price to the budget of $950 . Counting rebate and everything.

This is what it would look like with the SSD and the Case Fan but it goes a little bit over budget with the HP monitor.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $190.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus H110M-E/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $36.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB GTR Video Card | $249.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $62.99 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $79.99 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Corsair SP120 57.2 CFM 120mm Fan | $12.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | HP 22cwa 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $99.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $974.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $954.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-21 23:32 EST-0500 |

-1070/7700 is a great combo. I went for the 7600k and wish I spent the $100 or so more on the 7700. You'll be able to play 90% of everything at max settings and push 100+ FPS. The z270 series mobo's are sweet. You may need to do xmp to get the RAM to work @2400.

-I don't know if it's available by you but this motherboard comes with a free wifi/bluetooth card.

-I was looking at the Noctua fan, decided against it as it looked like a pain in the ass to install. Cryorig H7 is straight forward and relatively quiet (once I adjusted fan curves)

-Consider upgrading the PSU to a gold version. EVGA makes some very nice units like this which is modular, so cables are easier to work with.

Other than that, everything is solid; I'd maybe upgrade the SSD to an M.2 NVME for faster boot speeds, etc, but that's just me.

Check out https://pcpartpicker.com/ It's a great utility to let you know if everything is compatible, while also showing links for pricing.

Thank you for the reply!

Thanks for the info on the CPU cooler, since I'm going to be staying with the i7 6700K would it be smarter to get a water cooler? Two Cryorig coolers are standing out to me, either the air cooler H5 Universal http://pcpartpicker.com/product/jK8H99/cryorig-cpu-cooler-h5universal or the water/hybrid Cryorig A40 http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-a40 I'm curious about what would be most necessary for keeping everything cool.

Thanks for the heads up on the OS key, I didn't know that was a thing when purchasing OS keys. Would going with this one from Microsoft be a safe option? https://amzn.com/B01019T6O0 Would I be able to deactivate and reactivate it to use on a different computer if need be?

You've got me interested in a power line adapter now, I'm just looking for a short term solution until I'm able to run a line to where my computer is. Are there any power line adapters in particular that you recommend?

I'm planning on bumping up the PSU to a 750, would that be enough for upgrades in the future or would an 850 be a better option? I'm already pushing my upgrade limit right now so something really beefy would be a little farther in the future. A 1070 is plenty of power for me for a little while. (I think).

Thank you for the time you put into responding to me, I really do appreciate it.

1. Yes, but actually no. The ROG X470-F doesn't support USB BIos Flashback, which would allow you to update your BIOS to the current Ryzen 3000 series BIOS. You can also upgrade the BIOS through a retailer such as Frys or the Microcenter and they will update it at little cost. This list here will show you the motherboards compatible with USB Bios Flashback if that isn't an option. X570 boards are also an option but start at $169.99.
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/bvfo57/list_of_b350_b450_x370_and_x470_motherboards_with/
   
   
2. Yes. When benchmarked against a 100$ AIO 360mm cooler, it yields 4.125GHz vs 4.2Ghz. A totally overlooked part of AMDs value proposition.
   
   
3. Yes, its a very well built PSU, but there are alternatives for cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/?tag=pcpapi-20 Own this unit myself, and is silent, and steady 12V rails for OC.
   
   
4. Look at youtube tutorials. Even though it may sound dumb, those really help if you get stuck on something, but manuals are 10000% useful.
   
   
5. Yes, and the boards I recommended (Get a higher quality B450 board if you want to stick with it for a long time) will be able to upgrade through the next generation Ryzen as Ryzen's next-gen CPU's will be compatible on your mobo.
   
   
6. No, it's a very balanced build in fact.
   
   
7. Yes, but the Focus G is Arcylic and doesn't have the best build quality compared to other cases for a bit more.
   
   Here are two I enjoy recommending: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qZjJ7P/corsair-carbide-spec-06-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011145-ww
   
   https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zHndnQ/phanteks-eclipse-p350x-blackwhite-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec350ptg_dbw
   
   
8. Nothing I didn't mention above :)
   
   Hope you have a wonderful night!

2 questions for this monday morning:

1. Dual monitor stand recommendations? Seems like both Mount It! and VIVO are good - i want something where each arm is individually adjustable. Clamp style is preferred but the option to have a stand would be nice too. I have two u2414h's to mount. Is one clearly better than another? Looking at this VIVO and this mount it! - is one better than another or do any of you have recommendations?
   
   
2. RAM timings - i've got 2x8gb G.SKILL TridentX 1866 DDR3 sticks, and a 4790k. According to PCPartPicker, these exceed the Haswell recommendation of 1.5v, and will be downclocked. Should i return and get something like the 1866 snipers, which are cheaper, or will i be fine?
   
   TIA!

How much do you want to spend? Do you want to do any gaming on this PC?

You can build a better computer for cheaper, but the Apple Mac mini is pretty small and powerful enough for recording audio. It's $600.


You can build a better machine for a lot less, though:

• CPU: Intel i3-2100 - $125
  
• MoBo: ASRock H61DE/S3 - $76
  
• RAM: PNY Optima 1x4GB - $25
  
• PSU: SS-350ET 350W - $43
  
• Case: NZXT Gamma - $40
  
• Hard drive: 1TB 7.2k RPM SeaGate Barracuda - $100
  
• Disc burner: Sony DVD burner - $24
  
• TOTAL: $433
  
  The Intel i3-2100 CPU is just about the best bang for your buck.
  
  The ASRock H61DE/S3 motherboard has 5.1 surround sound, S/PDIF optical audio output, Gigabit ethernet, USB 2.0 (but not 3.0), DVI, VGA, and HDMI video output. If you don't need surround sound and optical audio output, we can get something about $20 cheaper here.
  
  SeaSonic power supplies are high quality. 350 Watts will be plenty for this build.
  
  The NZXT Gamma case is the best you can get for only $40.
  
  This build doesn't have a video card. Built-in graphics will work fine unless you will be doing 3D modeling or 3D gaming.

SanDisk as a brand isn't bad, but COULD BE better. See if you can spring for a Samsung drive. It's not like it's C or D tier, but Sandisk isn't A tier that's for sure. The MSI board you've chosen is probably fine; but we've seen some issues with reliability over time - especially with the more budget-focused sub 100 dollar boards.

GPU is a bargain. Great cooling on it. Phanteks is kicking butt in the case market these days. Corsair always amazing -- BUT their TXM line is NOT high quality. It's built by a third party manufacturer last I checked.

See if you can spring for an EVGA G3. Worlds better quality.

Keyboards: Ducky, KBParadise, Filco, etc. Browse around here:

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=110

You really want to stick to Cherry or Gateron switches, but if you don't know how the different switches feel, buy a $10 tester FIRST. I tried Cherry browns, wasn't a fan. Went with Gateron Blues and loved them, will probably go Gateron Clears next.

For cheap keycaps, look for PBT doubleshot caps on Ebay by a company names Tai Hao. You can get good sets for $10-50.

Mice: I really like the Logitech G703, you an shut the RGB off (I did), but a wireless mouse with a constant wireless charging solution is awesome.

Headset: Try these paired with this. Highly recommended combo, and much better quality than an actual gaming headset.

first of all you have a Z87 mobo, this is outdated and you will want a Z97 mobo. Are you intending to overclock? if so, a 4670k or 4690k is the default choice. great price/performance ratio and will last you at least 4-5 years before you need a new cpu, esspeically once OC'ed to the high 4ghz range.

Some other notes on your build below:

As for the ram, you are way over paying for it. it's your regular 1600 mhz cas 9 ram. that ram is run of the mill with a fancy name slapped on it. Get a 2x4gb kit from g. skill or something similar for $60-80 range.

case: case is completely subjective, but that's a fairly basic case for $100. I would recommend something like a source 210 windowed version for $40. In builds this, don't drop $100 on a case. That extra $60 can bump you up another GPU tier.

Case fans: Case fans are again, something completely based on opinion but i notice they are 140mm fans and im assuming you are using the two red ones to replace the case fans and the two bitfenix for rad fans? if so these need to all be 120mm fans (unless the case specifies it will work with 140). however, i would say only get 2 anyway and only replace the case fans as those are pretty expensive fans. This is an area to cut cost if you are on a buget.

CPU cooler: that CLC is a fine cooler, but if you are on a budget this is an area to cut cost as well. Something like a 212 evo will give you 90% just as good temps for $30 without the hassle of worrying about leaks or pump failures. If you are not overclocking absolutely do not waste $100 here. A non-overclocked cpu will do fine with the stock cooler.

Psu: fine psu, no tips

GPU: 760 is a fine gpu (i have one in my build right now) however if you save some money in other areas you could get a 770 or 280x or something for the same price.

SSD: m500 has been replaced by the mx100. Here it is at the same price however this one performs better and is newer


hope that points you in the right direction.

EVGA Bronze 500W PSU. $56 as I type this. If you want cheaper, here's the same Bronze supply but with a 'fluid dynamic' fan bearing which probably is noisier. $46. Both of these supplies come with a 3 year warranty.


I hear only great things about EVGA's customer support. If you want to step up to their bulletproof line, the 550W G2 Supernova is a fantastic PSU but doesn't come in under your price range. I have the 850W G2 supply and I love it.

Here is my recommendation

This is exactly what I would do... its a bit over $300 but is generally one of, if not THE, most recommended 1440p, 144hz monitors.

I know that you said that refresh rate isn't huge for you... but with having a 2070 super, I would go for 144hz that way you've got the ability to have higher refresh rates with other games, if/when you play them.

If you ABSOLUTELY CANT go over $300, let me know and I can probably find you something else... but the monitor that I included here is quite a great one... I dont have it personally, but ive got probably 5 friends with it and they all love it.

EDIT: it's actually being sold directly from Dell right now for $299.99

May I suggest this 27 inch monitor instead of a 32 inch. It is $100 above your price point but I am fairly certain that you wont be able to find a 32 inch 2K IPS monitor for $500 or less. If you do, I really doubt the quality of that monitor. Last month I built a new PC and upgraded to a 2K monitor. At first I was looking at a 32 inch as well but decided to go for a 27 inch one due to price and found the size to be perfect (many would also say that 2K looks best on a 27 inch display with 4K looking better at 32 inches). Honestly, a 32 inch monitor would be way too large for my day to day use but depending on your setup it might be ok. The monitor I recommended also has a 144Hz refresh rate and I have to say that I find the 144Hz to make a huge difference coming from a 60Hz monitor.

I am not familiar with the Team Vulcan RAM listed, but I would suggest a CAS latency of 8 for DDR3-1600. I also would suggest scrapping the Hybrid drive for a SSD, such as the Samsung 840 EVO 250GB with a storage drive like Seagate Barracuda 1TB.

What kind of display are you using, what resolution do you plan on playing at? Are you determined to get the Windforce model? There are options just as good for $100 less, or in most cases a 970 is the better buy which could save you even more...

You definitely will not need a 750W PSU, a 500W will certainly suffice.

Not $15 but very useful:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Anti-Static-Wrist-Adjustable-Grounding/dp/B00004Z5D1
A little over $15 but is also useful:
http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405649645&sr=1-1&keywords=killawatt
This is a great radiator fan:
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Performance-Single-CO-9050007-WW/dp/B007RESFVI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405649677&sr=1-3&keywords=sp120
A nice airflow fan:
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Performance-Single-CO-9050003-WW/dp/B007RESGBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405649705&sr=1-1&keywords=af120
And another cool thing:
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/

I have this setup.

The Dell S2716DG, and a 1080p144hz monitor next to it.

Using this stand.

I'd say the 'base' monitor you'd want to get has to have 144hz. Simply b/c once you go 144hz, having a 60hz monitor next to it would feel terrible.

So just look for the best 'budget' 1080p144hz that you can, imo. There's several options that fit this, I wouldn't be too picky here. In fact, go onto Ebay/CL and see if you can get a used one. The 1080p144hz is 'on-its-way-out', where as 1440p/144hz may become the standard. So you don't need to go hog-wild getting a really good 1080p/144.

I use the 1080p, as my secondary (Reddit, Youtube, etc.) and the 1440p for games. It's a good middle ground between 2 identical 1440p monitors ($$$).

My future purchase might be a 240hz 1080p, additionally. So I can play cinematic/G-Sync games @1440p, play super competative FPS shooters on the 240hz, and have a nice 144hz monitor for productivity. So far, that's all I'm really planning for.

The 1440p/144hz of course being possibly upgraded to 4k/144hz or Ultrawide resolution at high refreshes. However I feel like 1440p/144hz is the sweet spot right now for pairings with affordable GPUs (1070/1080)

My DREAM setup would be a 240hz 1080p. And and ultra ultra wide for cinema/games, and a 4k/144hz for games that don't work well with ultra wide.

If you don't mind my recommendation, I say definitely upgrade your MOBO.... The one suggested is a great idea, and what I just picked up off Amazon for the low!
Check this link to see what MOBO is best recommended for that processor.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=99753

As for the RAM - I grabbed the TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200 as well. I recommend them. If you don't care for the RGB frills, you can get them cheaper I believe.

Also: I definitely recommend the Samsung 960 Pro 500gb, if you can swing it (since you're under budget). You will LOVE the insane difference in speed!!!
https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-pro-m-2-512gb-mz-v6p512bw/

Lastly, I noticed you didn't include the monitors in your pricing... If you don't have any already, I recommend grabbing these while they are on sale for $100 cheaper than normal!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZXZ3QBD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can save a fair amount on this SSD, the MX100, for $115. While the performance on that samsung is really impressive, I'm not sure it is worth it for the standard gamer.
The R9 280 will probably be the best option to squeeze into your budget.
In terms of RAM, all you need is the best deal you can find on 1600MHz CL9 running at 1.5 volts.
Not to sure on optical drives as I haven't used one in a while. Good luck though and enjoy the process.

I'm not an expert by any means, but maybe get 1600MHz memory instead?

Also, your current case does not look like it has good airflow. May I suggest a Rosewill CHALLENGER mid-tower? It will be a bit more money, but it should be worth it.

Your PSU will be able to handle everything. Hell, you can probably downgrade the PSU to a smaller wattage (650 watt?), if you're not worried about doing a lot of upgrading.

I'm not sure about the motherboard, since it got very mixed reviews on Newegg (lots of reports of it dying). It should be fine with a warranty, I suppose!

And your card will be fine. Personally I like EVGA. I have an EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti and I love the thing.

For ~$750 that's not a bad deal at all, imo.

Good luck on the build and maybe wait for a second opinion on all of this.

Edit: One last thing. Your monitor is iffy. It looks like it has a low resolution and contrast ratio. Also, no DVI or HDMI input. Something like 1920x1080 and 50,000,000:1 is preferable. I use one of these.

Hey guys, my friend brought a used Dell XPS 8700 computer for her side hustle as photographer/videographer. She has budget of about $500 for upgrade. She wants to run Adobe suites, Color grading apps and some simple animation (text and such) with After effects, MS office apps,web browser,chat app (Skype/Discord). Ultimately she wants to have 3 monitors so she can run multiple apps at the same time.

I have software background, don't know much about hardware but I am the only "computer guy" she knows.

Its windows 10 machine and has Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU @ 3.40GHz and other stock dell component.

I was thinking of suggesting upgrading these three

ASUS AC1200 Wireless Bluetooth 4.2 PCIe/Mpcie Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RRZMB/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ykaIDb4ZDEE3W $34.99 (for faster Wi-Fi and Bluetooth because dell one is really bad)

Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D6E5JMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_JYaIDbJZCAVQP $139.99 (more ram for multiple apps, it only supports DDR3 ram)

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_nlaIDbJWFPEJK $79.99 (for boot and installing program only, format and use the existing HD for storage)

But I am struggling with which graphic card to suggest, it has dell power supply (I think 460 watts, might be wrong, don’t have PC with me so can’t tell), NVIDIA GeForce GT 635 card which supports 3 monitor but really struggles with everything else.

Here are 3 graphic card that it say it works with 450w and has good reviews, but I don't know which one to suggest.

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 OC 6G Graphics Card, 2X Windforce Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P76G428/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_gnaIDbMGBH0AR $229.99

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Gaming OC 6G Graphics Card, 3X Windforce Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P689CXR/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_WnaIDbQQBPCR8 $239.99

MSI Gaming GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 192-bit HDMI/DP 6GB GDRR6 HDCP Support DirectX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N824KNV/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_toaIDbNAYN7PV $279.99

Which graphic card do you think will work best? Do you guys have any other suggestion? Do you see a bottle neck or compatibility issues? Do you think that the best use of her money? It’s my first time messing with hardware and it is someone else money so I am really nervous. Thank you in advance for your help.

GET THIS MOTHERBOARD INSTEAD AS IT HAS A WAY BETTER VRM THAT CAN HANDLE A 3950X OC https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Prime-X570-P-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07SW925DR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-1

OR THIS IF YOU NEED WIFI

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXF8GY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-2

RYZEN IS NOTORIOUS FOR HAVING ISSUES WITH CORSAIR RAM SO GET ONE OF THESE INSTEAD

https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripjaws-PC4-28800-CL16-19-19-39-F4-3600C16D-16GVKC/dp/B07X8DVDZZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2XCCYAGMPGNW6&keywords=ddr4+3600&qid=1572972012&sprefix=DDR4+3600%2Caps%2C381&sr=8-5

OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVT8SGF/ref=dp_cerb_2

SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=NVME%2BSSD&qid=1572972195&s=electronics&sr=1-6&th=1

THAT BEQUIET PSU IS WAY OVERPRICED GET THIS INSTEAD

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=FGOJGR74XJKV&keywords=evga+650w&qid=1572972243&sprefix=EVGA+6%2Caps%2C369&sr=8-1

GPU WISE WHY ARE YOU GETTING A 2060S, IF ITS FOR RTX THEN PLS DONT, MY 2080 SUCKS AT RTX.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1FK3863HZDJT1&keywords=5700+xt&qid=1572972451&s=electronics&sprefix=57%2Celectronics%2C364&sr=1-5

GET THE 5700XT AS IT PERFORMS CLOSER TO THE 2070S FOR THE SAME PRICE (THIS ONE IS 10$ CHEAPER)

COOLER WISE,

IF YOU WANT AN AIO THIS ONE IS BETTER

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OCFL4DYDBT86&keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1572972539&sprefix=EVGA+CL%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-1

I'D PERSONALLY STICK WITH THE WRAITH PRIZM AS THERE IS NO NEED TO UPGGRADE UNLESS YOU WANT THAT SWEET 4.4GHZ OC. IF YOU WANT TO OC GET THE COOLER ABOVE

IF YOU WANT AN AIR COOLER, GET THIS

https://www.amazon.com/NOCTUA-NH-D15-chromax-Black-Dual-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y3CTQNT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QU9QXYJISXDX&keywords=noctua+nh-d15+ltt&qid=1572972675&sprefix=noctua+nh-d15+L%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-3

IF YOU LIVE NEAR A MICROCENTER YOU CAN GET WAY BETTER DEALS THERE.

I just did a similar thing, but am running Ubuntu instead.

Get the Ryzen 1600 and not the 1600X.

Some AM4 motherboards have BIOS issues with the new AMD Hardware. This gets fixed in Kernal 4.10/4.11. Check where Qubes OS is! And I'll star this for importance***

May I recommend the Phantek Enthoo Pro M?
http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M.html
^I am truly astounded by the case vs. cost.

Might I add that the Ryzen 1600 comes with a CPU Cooler?
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4
Effectively, this saves you $64.
The Phantek Case you $20(ish)
EVGA makes significantly cheaper PSU's (save $30)

But as others have said....getting the 1600X is like throwing money away.... If you're running Linux like I am, the CPU is PLENTY powerful.

Well, under $400, you have some of these options (TN Panels):

• Asus 24" 1080p 144Hz
  
• Acer 27" 1440p 144Hz FreeSync
  
• Viewsonic 27" 1080p 144Hz FreeSync
  
• AOC 24" 1080p 144Hz G-Sync
  
• BenQ 24" 1080p 144Hz
  
  Obviously there are more options, but all of those have the 144Hz, some are 1440p, while others are not.
  
  If you wanted an IPS one:
  
  
• Asus 27" 1440p 60Hz IPS
  
  The TN Panels still have fantastic pictures so, it's not a bad choice and would be good for gaming. If you can save up another $400, you can go with the Asus ROG 27" 1440p 144Hz IPS. Just got this about a week or so ago and it is just fantastic. 100% worth the extra money.

Don't get a "Gaming headset", they're just low quality headphones with a mic strapped on.

I normally use a pair of V-Moda M-100s with a ModMic 3. Works wonderful, but the M-100s are pretty expensive.

If your budget is around $100 I'd recommend the Philips SHP9500S. Great sound quality, very comfortable, doesn't need an amp, compatible with the V-Moda BoomPro, and pretty cheap.

The only downsides are that they're open backed, so outside noise will distract you, and their bass isn't amazing. I personally own these headphones, so ask any questions you want.

I'd also recommend going over to /r/headphones and going to their purchase advice thread to see what they think

So i made an alternate pcpartpicker list for you that is more focused on intel. the 9600k is much better for gaming than 2700x, just keep that in mind (Despite it having less cores)

Here are my thoughts. Just know im a little biased towards intel over ryzen at this budget

would you consider a slightly faster processor. My build was the same except I got a 9700k with a noctua nh-d15

the 9700k will make your computer much more upgradeable in the future and you wont have to rebuild as often


Other notes: Powersupply is def too expensive

if you are student try and see if you can get student version of office. all you need is a .edu address

Big One: CHECK AMAZONWAREHOUSE for used monitors. A lot of times they run the used price -20% of base price of total monitor after you put it in shopping cart. i got ASUS ROG PG279Q for like 280 on there. the ASUS ROG PG279Q does not have that special deal right now but another 1440p 144hz+ monitor might.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00N2L5CXO/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

for monitor you picked on amazon used deals (there is no special 20% off on that monitor right now)

Ram: Your RAM is massively overkill but it is a good choice for 2700x.. Only get that RAM if you get an AMD. I still would recommend 9700k or 9600k imo over that, but i am biased towards intel so keep that in mind. just remmeber you can save some money on ram if you get intel. Also, I only have 8 gb of ram and it works fine with my build and things i do (Gaming)

-That motherboard seems a bit pricey for ryzen, but I dont really know about ryzen boards. I just know that htey are generally cheaper than intel boards and that MB is running hte same price as my intel board

-don't get that cooler. just use stock cooler. I think someone else already said it but the stock cooler is fine with ryzen. only get a cooler for ryzen if you get a good one

Note: power supplies are really cheap on amazon warehouse right now

check out used version of this power supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDETOW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1#

it is much higher quality and is same price as your power supply but is

Overall pick this build if you are primarily gaming imo

Best I can recommend is the EVGA 650 SuperNOVA G3 here. However, it is $100 right now which is a bit expensive for it. I only like fully modular power supplys and love the eco switch on the G3, however, if you want a lower cost go for the superNOVA NEX here. Good luck!

edit: Please note the NEX does not have a eco switch, which keeps the fan not running in low power idle situations. The G3 has it. I recommend 650 for future upgrades.

edit 2: That moment I notice you're Aussie

Hey, not really sure why nobody else chimed in about this but I'm hoping I'm not too late on this suggestion. If you're getting a 2600 and looking to overclock at all (which is highly recommended), you'll want a motherboard with LLC available in the bios. That ASRock motherboard does not, to my knowledge.

This motherboard does, and has better VRMs. The trade-off would be that MSI doesn't have voltage offset available in their bios, but that's only relevant for Ryzen x series chips. So, for example, if you were buying a 2600x, I'd be more inclined to recommend your currently selected ASRock mobo over the one I linked.

This is without getting into any of the other feature differences between the boards, as the bios options / overclocking potential is a pretty notable divide between the two for your cpu.

Edit: Oh also, there have been some really good PSU deals over the last few days where I wouldn't recommend paying ~$80 for a 550w G2. While 550w is plenty for your build and more isn't necessary by any means, I'd recommend this as you'll be saving ~$20.

Better monitor See Below edit 2

Your monitor is the best entry level 1440p monitor probably, but it will hold you back sometimes. 1070 is in a weird place between 1440p 60hz and 1440p 144hz.

Maybe drop down to the 650w G2 PSU to save 10-20 bucks. otherwise looks fun! Enjoy!

edit ignore all that putz about the monitor i linked a 1920x1080 one, let me try to find one give me a few minutes.

edit2 1440p G-Sync Monitor As I mentioned before it's pricier, but G-Sync is super awesome.

Yeah, it's definitely a nice build. I've built me a new pc half a year ago with almost the same specs.
I would consider a bigger SSD especially new AAA games are huge in terms of storage space and need, imo, a SSD to run smoothly.
And as already mentioned you could really get a smaller case... But if you want to upgrade to normal ATX in time the chosen case is definitely the better choice. (Imo it's also better for cable management, air flow and upgradability).
Remember that you get windows for 10-20 bucks on your friendly key-selling site :)

Edit:(fixed link) pretty cheap 500GB SSD

I would also probably go 1440 over 4k. The performance benefits are much better, and coming from someone who dropped from 4k to 1440, you wont notice a HUGE difference between them.

GSync is awesome, I love it, and if it fits in your budget, it is definitely worth checking out. I can drop down to 45-50 FPS and never really notice that it is that it has dropped below 60.

The most important things that I could recommend is looking at the games you play and deciding if you want a faster response time or better color reproduction/better viewing angles and what refresh you want to have.

TN monitors are the way to go for faster response time, and many FPS players prefer them for that reason. IPS will get you the best color reproduction and viewing angles, but will be more expensive than a TN counterpart. Both offer refresh of up to 144Hz and there are TN monitors that go as high as 200Hz.

I hope this helps a little in making your decision.

EDIT:

One of my fave 1440p Monitors IPS 144Hz GSync:
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-XB270HU-bprz-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00UPVXDA8

And the equivalent TN panel:
http://www.amazon.com/PG278Q-27-Inch-Display-Refresh-Monitor/dp/B00MSOND8C/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463846407&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+rog+swift

Your build is pretty similar to mine and i'm using the Asus Rog Swift PG279Q. It's a bit expensive even for a few year old monitor but its amazing and still top of the line. 1440p at 144hz and can switch to 165hz. Gsync & ips with 2 Display Ports (recommend) and HDMI ports. I personally removed my 2nd monitor when upgrading to this 1 because of the sheer size and resolution, it actually feels better to scale multiple windows right in front of me when multitasking rather than turning to other monitors. Playing games and watching movies is by far the best viewing experience I've ever had.

https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM

my build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qRxxwV

No problem. Quick reminder that the Windows 10 license you're ordering is on a DVD but you don't have an optical drive. You can order a Windows 10 license pre-installed on a USB here.

If you have another PC that you can use to make your own USB you can purchase a downloadable version here. There are several free tools you can use to do it this way & it's cheaper but it's up to you. Either way you won't run into any issues running the OS once everything is built.

Good luck with the build man, hope all goes well :)

Rule of thumb:

Any mother that has a Z like a Z97 is meant for overclocking whereas H series are just standard.

Like I said I built a pic last weekend with an i5 4690 and an ASRock H97 Pro4 and it went flawless so you wouldn't be disappointed there.

Edit: plus it would match your RAM.

Second edit: you might be pushing it with 450watt and a r9 380. If you can afford it, I can recommend the EVGA G2 series enough. Top tier in terms of quality and fully modular so cable management is a breeze. I would look for other builds and see if anyone has gone 450watt with that video cards.


Power supply recommendation:
EVGA 220-G2-0550-Y1 80 PLUS GOLD 550W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support Continuous Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-053

Another edit:
Even better, the 750watt version of the G2 is the same price as the 550watt version on Amazon.

EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD, 750W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_qsyHwb8X08VYH

I have that monitor (VG248QE) and I can honestly say that it is a fantastic monitor. 144Hz is damn smooth and I honestly couldn't go back to 60Hz. If you play lots of fast paced games it'll make a significant difference. It's a TN panel though, and the viewing angles aren't as good as my previous IPS panel.

Now, you can instead get a 1440p 60Hz Korean panel for around the same price. It's not 144Hz, but a GTX 970 should be able to handle most of those games turned up at 1440p and still get good framerates. Benchmark link.

If it were up to me, I'd pick a 1440p monitor over a 144Hz one any day, but do consider if the games you'll play will run well on a single 970 at 1440p. On the other hand, consider if the games you'll play run at high enough framerates that a 1080p 144Hz monitor will make a difference.

If you want a more basic, cheaper 1080p 60Hz panel, I can recommend you the ASUS VS228H-P which was my previous monitor. It's nothing special, but it's IPS and 60Hz.

If you're thinking, "por que no los dos?", there's the ASUS ROG Swift, a 1440p 144Hz monitor, but it's hella expensive and hard to get.

Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3

ATX, Z170 (which supports Intel K-series overclocking), and supports AMD Crossfire (which is AMD equivalent of SLI). It's $90 on Amazon.

B150M Mortar

Sub-$100, but MicroATX. It has Crossfire support, but it'll be a tight fit on MicroATX.

Also, as /u/Panayotes mentioned, ASRock motherboards are usually sub-$100 with features that over-$100 motherboards would have.
Just search for ASRock motherboards with LGA1151 socket and Crossfire compatibility in PCPartPicker.


To answer your question, no. The RX 480 is supposed to consume 150W of power, so two would take around 300. A 750W power supply would be needed for peace of mind with 2x RX 480s.

A 650W power supply could work, but I wouldn't recommend it. And, if you're even considering using 2x 480s, you may as well buy a GTX 1070. That would work much more comfortably at 650W.

I've never used it so I am not sure, but this is the mic. There is a video of it I bleieve you can hear a demo. Keep in mind that this is an Omni-directional mic so it will pick up everything in your room including your voice. So if you constantly have barking docs and what not, this may not be ideal. But this should be loud enough for your friends to hear you over Skype.

Your next best option would bit This mic. THis should be a uni-directional mic, so it should mostly only pick up your voice. It still sounds tinny but it should sound better than the Clip on mic, and almost every webcam mic. It is basically a "Budget-Mod Mic".

But the best "attachable boom mic" on the market right now is the Mod Mic, which is what I was using for quite awhile until I just switched with an AT2020 XLR mic.

What's more important to you -- 144hz or color accuracy? I would personally go with an IPS or PLS screen (I own the 27-inch PLS ASUS PB278Q @ 1440p/60hz) for my photography and photo editing/video editing needs.

I decided not to bother with 144hz because I don't play FPS games that much and honestly I find the price to performance ratio not that great for the wallet.

That said, you can go with something like the the 24-inch 144hz BenQ XL2420Z for gaming and run an IPS monitor like the 23-inch IPS [ASUS PA238Q] or the 24-inch IPS [ASUS VS248H-P] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HIRG52/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005HIRG52&linkCode=as2&tag=red90-20&linkId=HHTQ3XDDRA7KHILJ).

Or if you want bigger, have a decent GPU and the money, get the 27-inch PLS ASUS PB278Q for your photo/color accurate work and the 27-inch 144hz G-Sync capable [ASUS ROG Swift] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSOND8C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00MSOND8C&linkCode=as2&tag=red90-20&linkId=OKZ5ODZGP45AXRIW) which is pricey but an excellent TN-panel LED-backlit monitor. The PLS-based PB278Q is fantastic for color work especially after proper calibration.

You're going to need an SLI setup for those two though so choose wisely!

If you like the common formatting of this subreddit, check out pcpartpicker.

EDIT: That's an excellent gaming build. The PSU is a little overkill. There's a great deal on a fully modular Seasonic 750W at Newegg for $119.00 after promo code (ends 4/24). I love Corsair (in my rig now) but that Seasonic is a great deal.

Also, if you wanted to save on your HDD, there is a Seagate with the exact same specs for $89.99 on Amazon.

I have the exact same setup, let me break it down for you like this:

Star Wars BattleFront ULTRA settings in game:
1920 x 1080: 90-100 FPS
2560 x 1440: 60-70 FPS

I wish it ran it faster but it doesn't.
Playing games at 120+ fps is awesome, so you could get 1440p @ 144hz but on older games like counterstrike.

I went with this monitor below, got it for $200 and it keeps me happy for now.
Nixeus Vue 24" 1920x1080 144Hz, AMD FreeSync, 1ms, Adaptive-Sync 30Hz to 144Hz NX-VUE24A

I wish I got that red acer that user: c0horst got, but that would mean your games would run slower.
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-XG270HU-omidpx-FREESYNC-Widescreen/dp/B00VRCLHYS

I'm looking to replace my PSU but have it ready for a i7/high end mobo within the year. I definitely don't need anything more than 750/850 as I intend on going with one GPU probably about a 970.

I haven't much experience with Seasonic, and my last PSU is a Antec which has held up remarkably well.

Money isn't really a big deal as I want to make sure I have a solid PSU. What would you recommend EVGA or Seasonic. I'm looking at the G2 which is around 99$ on Amazon. Any recommendations?

Is this the model you have? http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457031186&sr=8-1&keywords=G2+750W

I know that I'd be fine with 16 GB RAM, but I wanted to spring for 32 GB in case I ever wanted to venture outside of gaming into more demanding tasks, as well as 32 GB would future-proof me until the end of time for gaming.

 

I wanted to spring for an NVME SSD to reduce cables inside the case, as it attaches directly to the motherboard. No need for the pesky SATA cables.

 

I might just go with a single 1080 Ti due to the advice I'm getting on this post, but I think I'll just stick with an 850 W to leave me open to expand my build without having to upgrade the PSU.

 

I don't really need Windows 10 Pro, but I know of a place where I can get Windows 10 Home and Pro for extremely cheap, and the difference in price between Home and Pro on this particular site is negligible, so I might as well go with Pro.

 

I definitely won't be planning on playing games on both monitors, but I think ideally I'd like to use a dual monitor stand (like this one). Furthermore, the reason I went with the same exact monitor for the secondary monitor is for consistency (they both look the exact same and are the exact same size, and will line up perfectly with each other).

Dont blame you at all! Building a pc is a unique experience that really let's you see what's going on.

On the SSD note. I've always been a big fan of the Samsung Evo series. I currently have this Samsung Evo 850 500gb but honestly 500gb Is a bit overkill unless you plan on putting a ton of games or documents on it. I have a couple 1tb drives hooked up and I've never used more than half of this SSD. But it has served me well. I'd suggest the 250gb version since you already have a sizable data drive. Just remember if you go with it, when you go to install windows, make sure only the SSD is plugged in. It'll save you some head aches.

Happy building!

You don't need an aftermarket cooler with the 3600, the stock cooler is great. For 144hz, the 3700x is going to be 5-10% better, but it will also cost another $130. Do yourself a favor and get an M.2 NVME SSD like an Intel 660p or HP EX920. The Dell S2719DGF is a fantastic 1440p 144hz Freesync monitor that doesn't break the bank. The next upgrade from there would be a nice IPS panel, but that will cost another $200-300 or so.

Nice build!

I really like your cable mangement job. I would recomend you upgrade your gpu+Monitor first. Then you should get an ssd. That way the things you see more often will be good. While i mean going for an ssd first is fine it wont make as much an upgrade as getting a better gpu. Either way you still got a good build!

For the monitor upgrade i recomend this http://www.amazon.com/VS228H-P-22-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B005BZNDOO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382318456&sr=1-1&keywords=Asus+vs228h-p I have 3 of them and they are amazing!

I'm thinking about getting a monitor to hook up my Dell XPS 13 to. Which one should I get? I was looking for monitors sub $150, and these four are what I've found so far:

Acer R240HY

ASUS VX228H

HP Pavillion 22CWA

ASUS VS228H-P

My thoughts about the monitors: I like the VX228H for dual HDMI (it'd be nice to be able to switch between laptop and switch without unplugging and switching cables from the monitor every time, but not having it isn't a dealbreaker), the Acer and HP both look nice too (I like me some small bezels), and the VS228H-P I'm not too sure about.

I plan on using this monitor for general use, slight gaming, and with the switch, so nothing too crazy.

ALSO, to connect the laptop to the monitor, do I have to buy this USB C to HDMI cable to connect the two? Or is there another, better way? Thanks!

For video card I'm thinking around $550 and monitor maybe like $325ish. Like I said I can wait if needed which means if AMD releases a new Navi before Cyberpunk and it's around $600ish, I could save more and swing it. Don't really want to push on the monitor too much but would go up to $350 if it really was that much better.

Kinda been looking at stuff like: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-27-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor-S2719DGF/dp/B00N2L5CXO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=S2719DGF&qid=1569343954&sr=8-1

or

https://www.amazon.com/Pixio-Professional-FreeSync-Certified-Compatible/dp/B07CNDK2XG/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=S2719DGF&qid=1569343954&sr=8-13

​

Not sure if I want a 32 inch or 27 inch. 27 seems more common but I dunno, 32 would be nice but may be too big for sitting that close, still deciding on that, another reason video card would be first.

​

Thanks

You'll get better sound quality for a better price buying a good pair of regular headphones and adding a mic. Specificially I would suggest getting a pair with a detachable cord and adding this mic.

As for the wireless route, that's a bit more complicated, but you could still pair a set of wireless headphones with an external mic and getting something nice. I have this set of wireless headphones from Sony and really like them, although you could probably do better for $300. For the mic, I would get something like the Blue Snowball.

Hi, I'm planning on getting a new monitor and graphics card pretty soon. Right now I have a Samsung SyncMaster P2350 (23", 1080p, 60hz) and a 780ti SC. My graphics card will be upgraded to either a 1080ti in Q1 2017, or the Titan Pascal if I can find a good deal on it.

My real question is which monitor to get? I want an upgrade from 23 inches and 1080/60 and was thinking something along the lines of 27 inches, 1440p at 144hz. I'm going to be using it for gaming, so I'd like a 1ms response time.

I was thinking about this Acer monitor but I wanted opinions on other products before I pulled the trigger on anything.

1440p is definitely a "must have", while the refresh rate can either be 120hz or 144hz. 1 or 2ms response time is ideal. Panel type (TN vs IPS) I am not too knowledgeable about, but I'm open to suggestions and reasons for/against a panel type. G-sync is not required. Budget is flexible, and I may consider an $800+ monitor, so don't hesitate to throw all suggestions out there.

Thanks everyone!

I got the Asus VS248H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED-lit LCD Monitor last year and have been pretty happy with it. The only complaint I have for it is that it does not move up and down, only tilts. It has DVI, VGA, and HDMI ports but only comes with 3-foot DVI and VGA cables. I have been using it with HDMI and it looks great after some minor fiddling with the settings. I bought it used for ~$100 and was very happy to see it come with the protective tape still on. Would recommend.

Okay so here's the deal. You could essentially go for 4K 60 hz, or go for 2k 144hz. Unless you want to spend way more for a 4k 144hz monitor. But that's very pricey. From $700 to $1400, but the best ones definitely at the higher end. That's completely out of budget. At the same time, 1080p 60hz is terrible for us because we don't see any benefit from our 2080ti.

So we either want to go for frame rate at 2k, or 4k at a much lower frame rate of 60hz.

You will find most people choose frames. You will definitely see a huge difference. Your games will be 100hz and up at 1440p. You also want a gsync monitor for your Nvidia card.

So in your budget for best overall monitor I would choose:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZXZ3QBD/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

And here's the 4K 60 hz version

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018MYTF4W/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I’m not huge on curved monitors but there’s appeal in them. Generally they’re considered better but I like flat.

ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q 27" 2560x1440 IPS 165Hz 4ms G-SYNC Eye Care Gaming Monitor with DP and HDMI ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_39s3Ab6EYHYDY

This is the monitor I wish I could afford, with a gtx 1080.

I'm thinking entry-level, budget G-Sync since G-Sync is already treating myself.

If you don't know any recommendations at that price range and have nothing against Acer, Acer it is.

• Is there any chance the Acer will have worse colors than my current TN?
  
  
• Will 1080p stop me from reaching that guys display? 2560x1440 doesn't look too far from 1920x1080, I bet the extra 3" also stretches it a little.
  
  
• I found a folder labeled "Windows" in my drive... Is moving that to the new computer not the same thing as installing Windows?
  
  
• I just measured the length of my monitor with a ruler and got 20" including the frame. It says 22" online. Any idea what that's about?
  
  I've also found articles about how AMD 480 will compare to the 1070 at literally half the price
  
  AMD is sounding like the sweetspot a part-time student like me is looking for while throwing punches with the GTX giants. Were you aware of this? If not, think I should return it? 3 days left
  
  {Edit: WTF! Amazon listing is now $500 and I just found out Microcenter sells it for [279$]
  (http://www.microcenter.com/product/443197/24_1080p_Full_HD_3D_Gaming_Monitor_-_XB240H). I checked for refurbished/used but it doesn't say anything. I knew it was too good to be true though, it's "not carried" at any nearby Microcenters}
  
  {I swear the Acer was $419 a few days ago... Should I just buy whatever monitors cheapest with the same specs at the time? For example AOC and Acer Predator are currently $100 cheaper (Isn't the Acer predator actually just a newer model? [241 vs 240])}
  
  {Speaking of Microcenters, in the process I found out there's actually one 14 minutes away. Getting the 6500 for $30 cheaper and checking out monitors there. I don't think it has the B150 though, any replacements for the combo deal?}
  
  When purchasing, I'll check out /r/buildapcsales , All set?
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $194.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $59.88 @ OutletPC
  Storage | PNY CS2211 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $69.99 @ Best Buy
  Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.49 @ OutletPC
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $439.99
  Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $47.99 @ Micro Center
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Amazon
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit | $108.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Monitor | Acer XB240H ABPR 24.0" 144Hz Monitor |-
  Headphones | Audio-Technica M50x Headphones | $119.75 @ Amazon
  Other| 6 ft Display Port cable| $9.95
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1254.00
  | Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
  | Total | $1244.00
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-12 23:47 EDT-0400 |

I would recommend a AMD A8-6600K. It is currently on sale, so it is even $20 LESS then what you have, and it is miles better(well, unless you just really want 6 cores). Also, for clarification, it is actually a 3.9ghz, the 4.2 is like.. turbo speed or something.

This means you need to get a FM2 compatible motherboard. As for advice for looking at specifics of motherboards, the main points are:

• Memory slots. As far as I know, all memory cards need to be the same. So if you are going to add memory, it needs to be the same kind. With 2 slots and your 8gb stick, you would only be able to get one more 8gb stick, unless you sold it and got better memory. With 4 slots, you could get 2x4gb sticks, and have room for buying one 4gb stick at a time for upgrades.
  
• Stuff like special audio ports or USB 3.0 capabilities.
  
• Room/arrangement of components. You want to make sure your graphics card isn't going to be sitting in the way of anything else. For a lot of smaller motherboards, a graphics card is going to be sitting right ontop of where you would plug a wireless network card, for instance. My friend also had to get "right angle" sata cables just because the graphics card was sitting ON TOP of the sata connections.
  
  EDIT: Didn't even notice. Why do you have a 500gb HD for $50? You could get a 1TB for $60.

IMO, it's one big gimmick and you would get better build quality and sound quality from music headphones. If you pay a little more then you get a little more.

A gaming headset mic is ok but a standalone mic like the V-MODA BoomPro, Modmic or the Blue Snowball would be better.

'7.1 surround sound' is basically gamer advertising for the soundstage I mentioned earlier.

Extras like the programmable keys, RGB and wireless are gimmicks too. I used to own Logitech G930s with programmable keys and wireless. I went into the other room and my wireless would drop in and out. I ended up not using the programmable keys because I already have a ton of keyboard keys and mouse buttons. It's plastic buttons and colors my friend.

I just want you to get something really well made and that blows everything else out of the water.

you're spending too much on a CPU considering you only have a 1060

I would say downgrade the CPU to an i5-6600 ($220), i5-6500 ($200), or an i5-6400 ($180). (Dont get anything with a K, K means it's ready to be overclocked. You will need to have a Z170 motherboard to overclock intel cpus) and either upgrade something else or pocket the extra money

• I would personally get an i5-6400 for this build but I can see you value a good cpu so feel free to get the i5-6500
  
  
• you'll save about $100-150 and see basically no change. You will also need a lot more than $122 for a keyboard, mouse AND monitor so I would use that extra 100 for those things.
  
  Also you really don't need a 650W power supply. I would get something like the EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W to save another $40 for your monitor and peripherals.

Sounds good! I’m going to save as much as I can, I like the colors on the IPS and 27’ is perfect for me. I was looking at this Asus and it has a lot of good stuff.

ASUS ROG PG279Q 27" Gaming Monitor WQHD 1440p IPS 165Hz DisplayPort Adjustable Ergonomic EyeCare G-SYNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BpaTCb7N74YNB

Want to thank you again for your help, I’d be very lost without it man !

The Philips SHP-9500's and V-Moda BoomPro. Stupidly good combo for the price. The headphones have massive cups and are super comfortable, though they are open so you better be okay with sound leakage. The mic is great and is super convenient, it will pair with any headphone that has a standard 3.5mm removable cable.

The one you can buy is all TLC SSD´s. From the qualtiy, I could recommend you Kingston, Samsung or WD here are some examples:

Samsung:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549304266&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+ssd

Kingston:

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1549304281&sr=1-2&keywords=kingston+ssd

WD:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1549304281&sr=1-8&keywords=kingston+ssd

​

Kingston is cheap for ssds with low capacity if you want more space use the WD. Samsung is an allrounder

I have a 1440 atm :). Your gpu should do great at that resolution. My first monitor recommendation would be this monitor, because it has a refresh rate of 165hz :D. I have the amd freesync version that only goes up to 144hz, but I love it nonetheless. The funny part is I ended up switching from an amd gpu to an nvidia.

If you want another 1440 monitor I would recommend checking out what dell offers. They do not disappoint :)

Dell S-Series 27-Inch Screen LED-Lit Gaming Monitor (S2719DGF); QHD (2560 x 1440) up to 155 Hz; 16:9; 1ms Response time; HDMI 2.0; DP 1.2; USB; FreeSync; LED; Height Adjust, tilt, Swivel & Pivot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2L5CXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nIHwDbFSMD4JC

I’ve been enjoying this one, seems to be out of stock at the moment, but I’m sure it will be back in stock soon. Best luck!

Thanks, i really appreciate your opinion.

I also just did buy this monitor S2719DGF, I guess id like to get good performance out of the pair (the RTX 2060 and monitor). Would like to get up to the 144hz if possible.

Other than that, if it's only a 10-15% performance hit from the cpu, I don't think I mind. But if the CPU is going to end up bottle necking things, i dont mind upgrading the cpu, mem, mobo.

The mobo you mentioned, the z97, is the one i have. Think i have the z97-gaming 5. Too bad its the wrong socket or it would be a no brainer for me to upgrade just the cpu. Was looking at the 9700k to upgrade... but again, if were only talking about a 10-15% performance hit withe the current cpu and im saving +-$700, i can live with that. But if the combo of the goal of the 144hz along with the cpu might cause a bigger hit than that, then im going to upgrade.

Your thoughts are appreciated on the topic. Thanks friend.

I've a evga ftw 1080 and 4670K @4.4GHz and I could get by with a good 450W (I've a 750W fwiw), I have a UPS which tells me the load, even though it might run the PSU on the warm side, that 450W will be fine with your system and a 1070, the only exception, is if you like have a bunch (8+) of mechanical harddrives, and even then you may be fine.

If you want to know for sure, buy yourself a Kilawatt they're like 20 bucks.

Cool, that's the best one to have.

You can put a standard ATX size power supply in there if you needed. Something like an EVGA 500B would be good and won't cost too much.

CDN$ 190.70 -GTX 1050 Ti

CDN$ 64.99 - EVGA 500B

The GTX 1050 Ti only needs a 300W PSU. It may already have that. I've seen people run it even off of something like a 240-260W PSU and be ok. May not need to upgrade the PSU.

Hey all i'm looking to get a 500GB SSD but I'm not sure if there's a huge difference in performance between the ones I like.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B0784SLQM6

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-NAND-500GB-Internal/dp/B072R78B6Q?tag=pcworld02-20&psc=1&ascsubtag=US-001-3234838-000-1439522-web-20

​

I hope it's ok to post links like this. Thank you

Do you have any motherboard recommendations given what I'm looking to put on it?

What about this one? – http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128881

 

The Windows version was Win 7 Home Premium and yea it was OEM.

EDIT: Where can I get Windows 7/8.1 "cheap" as you mentioned - from what I can see they tend to be more expensive than just getting 10 itself. (one Im looking at: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416804)

 

For the power supply, what about something like this – https://amzn.com/B0106RDIN2

 

Here's the markup from pcpartpicker

---

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $314.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler | $59.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $65.38 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $59.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $108.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card |-
Case | Xigmatek Asgard II Black/Orange ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 64-bit | $199.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VH238H 23.0" Monitor | $119.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1109.09
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1079.09
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-20 11:20 EDT-0400 |

You can get a GTX 660 for $180. It's slower, but still pretty fast. A GTX 750 Ti won't work in this build because there are no nVidia Maxwell drivers for OS X yet.

Why two 500GB hard drives? Just to keep the two OSs separate? 1TB disks are $5 cheaper or put two partitions on a single 2TB disk.

Do you really need 16GB of RAM? Are you running lots of virtual machines? Recent versions of Mac OS X are much more memory-efficient than older versions and don't really need more than 8GB of RAM to be quick.

You also don't need more than a quality 500w power supply for an i5 + 760 system.

Hope that helps you out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $90.16 @ Newegg
Memory | PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $63.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $82.37 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $746.48
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-22 15:52 EDT-0400 |

Alright, so I compared 24" 1080p with 27" 1440p both at work (with browser and other static-image programs open) and in an electronics shop (with a video from random games playing in a loop).

I must say that for work 27" looks just fine, it's not too big and has an advantage that I could effectively split windows vertically (each 1280px wide) which for 24" would result in often too narrow windows (each 960px). In my case it's great for productivity, as I very often have some tutorial/pdf open on the left-hand side and IDE on the right-hand side.

When it comes to video/gaming of course the 27" makes a better impression but it's hard to say after looking for just a few minutes if it's that significant.

Anyway, I think I'll go with 27" 1440p in this case. Thought about buying this Asus because of G-sync, IPS and 165Hz. People at /r/Monitors are also very positive about it (although backlight bleeding is often a problem, but then I could just give it back and demand a good model). What do you think about it? And what PC specs would you propose in this case?

No reason whatsoever to get a g-sync monitor now that nvidia supports freesync monitors as well.

​

If you get a 1440p monitor try to go for a 27 inch one though, sweet spot for that res imo, especially since you already have another 27 monitor so they'll look good one next to the other.

​

Maybe try something like this Dell S2719DGF, which is the best budget gaming 27 inch monitor according to the guys from RTings, and since it's coming from them I'd tend to believe it. It's currently discounted for 20% on Amazon at $359 and at this price it's a damn good deal.

Get the Dell S2719DGF! It is exactly $300 most of the time (I got it for $270 on sale) has great colors for a TN panel, free sync which works fine on Nvidia cards and is 155hz. Amazing value

Hello,

Assuming most of "gaming" headsets aren't very good, in overall, I recommand you to buy a good value "music" headset and a mod-mic.

 

Like this:

• Philips SHP9500. It costs less than $80 and uses a standard 3.5mm - 3.5mm cable, that almost nobody else does - which means it is fully compatible with the VMODA Boom Pro ($30): a mic attachment for headphones that receive a 3.5mm cable. Total $100.
  
   
  
  Also, if you are hearing random buzz and unbalanced/compressed/distorted/muffled output, it's most probably due to interference around the motherboard, which can be alleviated by using a DAC, like the Q1 for example.
  
  Have a nice day :)
  

Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speaker

Like you said, not top of the line stuff. If you'd like to spend more than I would recommend spending more on the keyboard. Everything else is surprisingly decent. Good luck.

If you want to do my build with a smaller price point, two very easy places to shed ~$100 is with a cheaper case and PSU. I wanted a good PSU because I have trust issues with them and I wanted the air 240 because the case is the only part I really have to look at. There are plenty of awesome cases and PSUs each at the $50 price range. Let me know if you need recommendations.

The monitor is this one. But I bought it ~3 years ago; so, I don't know if it is still a bargain monitor. (No speakers BTW)

I'm looking to upgrade my GPU, and I'd also like to get a 144hz 1440p gaming monitor. I'm waiting until details on Polaris (benchmarks and prices) before deciding on ATI vs. Nvidia, but I've been considering this monitor. The price is currently pretty great, but since it's a FreeSync monitor, will I be locked in to buying an ATI card to take advantage of the high refresh rate?

You might want the cheaper Ryzen 1600 and leave it running at 1600x speed easily with the B350 board .

If VR is potentially what you're looking for , GTX 1070 or 1080 is the safe bet . However , before casing and cpu cooler , it's already sitting at $675 (if I'm following ur list) so I'm not really sure how you can fit the GPU into the budget though .

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard | $98.76 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $126.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $99.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 2TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $685.49
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $675.49
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-10 10:42 EDT-0400 |

The GTX 1080 is still not badly inflated yet if you're willing to stretch the budget , there is still Strix 1080 at $629 . Have a Strix 1070 myself , amazing card .

Well if you had gsync you would turn it on in your NVIDIA control panel so you always are at 142-143 FPS on a 144hz monitor.

This will ensure you have gsync on all the time. It makes things silky smooth so you do not get any stuttering.

Here’s a few options for g-sync monitors -


https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB271HU-2560x1440-Display/dp/B0173PEX20

These monitors are $50 above your budget but has G-Sync and are IPS monitors so the color reproduction is a lot better than a TN.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Gaming-S2716DGR-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B0149QBOF0

This would be another option 1440p 144hz G-sync. But it’s a TN so the color isn’t quite as good but saves a good bit of money.

I'd go Samsung.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/

Especially considering Crucial's support site has the following welcome message on their SSD page:

"You may have read about a recent report describing a potential security vulnerability in our MX100, MX200 and MX300 products as well as another manufacturer’s products. While this vulnerability can only be exploited by an individual with physical access to the drive, deep technical SSD knowledge and advanced engineering equipment, we do recommend you update your drive's firmware for additional protection. You may also consider implementing a software encryption option as an alternative method to protect the security of your data. Please select your drive from the drop-down menu below to initiate the firmware update."

I know AOC has a relatively cheap monitor model that comes in FreeSync and G-Sync variants. I own the FreeSync version, it was like 200 bucks USD at the time (don't know what that is in dollarydoos). Great response time, color depth is somewhat poor, but great starter adaptive sync monitor. G-Sync version is $200 more. Acer's G-Sync offering is currently cheaper than AOC's and probably your best bet.

Either way, G-Sync is never going to have a "budget" monitor.

Yeah, 2k as in 1440p. I have an ASUS pg279q which is an ips 2k 165hz gsync monitor. Gsync adds like $100 to the price and is sort of worth it, but I think ULMB absolutely worth it if you play CSGO or other competitive type fps.

___

• pg279q: link
  
  Only problem is you might have to go through a few of them before you find one with no backlight bleeding. Their quality control on these panels is dogshit
  
  ___
  
  
  
  
• cheaper non-gsync & non-ulmb 2k (tn panel) 144hz monitor: link
  
  
  
  The Acer right now is a way better buy. ULMB and Gsync even when utilized aren't worth the extra ~$300. Also, the TN panels are WAY less likely to have backlight bleeding, and are really good quality.
  
  ___
  
  also here's a korean IPS 144hz 2k monitor: link
  
  Nice IPS panel, but there might be more ghosting than the previous two monitors.

• An SSD would be nice, but I'd look at it as your first upgrade. Alternatively grab a 240/256GB SSD and then grab an HDD when you need to extra space. I'm currently only running a 256GB SSD and while it's pretty full (~80%), I still have 5 games installed on it.
  
  
• A quality 550w PSU is enough for most single cards builds. Next gen cards are more likely to consume less power, not more. There are good 650w options for about the same price though. A 650w GQ would be a good option...
  
  http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Crossfire-Warranty-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8

You could get an SSD to replace the operating system if you would like. Here is one that is about the same price range as the OS.

Also don't be scared to build your own PC. I had absolutely no knowledge how to build one and after reading and watching guides it is very easy to do. Here is a great guide from NZXT.

I watched these two videos from newegg and followed them step by step to build my PC.

Part 1

Part 2

I watched Part 2 while I was building my PC and simply followed it step by step.

Honestly picking the parts is the hardest thing to do, before you buy anything post the parts you're going to get here using PCPartPicker.

If you feel overwhelmed you can always head over to /r/buildapcforme for help picking your parts.

Honestly that build is spot on for what you want to do with it!

Only thing I would change is look for a better monitor for just under $100. Something like this?. This monitor has been the highest rated for years. Been voted the best monitor for < $100 a good few times now. Its 24" counterpart is also only $25 more but is just as amazing.

I have the gigabyte z170 gaming 7 and it is a fantastic board!! It is very good looking and has every feature I would need in my mobo. The only bad thing about these motherboards are the UEFI BIOS it is just okay nothing fancy or amazing and easy to move around with so since u have a windowed case Id go for what you find more pleasing to look at and matches with your build! Other than that I would get a different power supply an evga gs/g2 psu will do you just fine and there is one on sale right now at amazon! http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW

Another thing you may consider is getting an r9 390 unless you are set on nvidia the 390 will be a smarter buy (whichever one is cheaper is better but if they are both the same price the 390 is a better buy).

The samsung evo 850 is also cheaper than that SSD

I wouldn't recommend "future-proofing" your build because new technology is always improving on last gen. The Samsung drive vs the Sabrent one is unnoticeable while gaming for example, and it's not going to be severely outclassed. The 2080S is about 10% faster than the 2070S for $200 more, so that depends on how much you value those 10%.

Also your monitor has a massive impact on your gameplay. I'd aim for 1440p 144 hz such as this Dell. It has really good reviews and is a solid value when it goes on sale for ~260. It's also compatible with Nvidia Freesync as far as I'm aware.

Best of luck with your build, let me know if you have any additional questions.

PSU: Please do not get 1200W PSU. You do not need that much. I understand building a dream build and all, but that's just throwing money out the window at that point. The only benefit is that it will be completely silent most of the time, but even then, a good PSU is very quiet when the fan is running. Can just get a 650W/750W for $90~, which is plenty.

MOBO: Your current mobo is fine, though a bit pricey/flashy.

RAM: Same problem with your PSU. Way too expensive. Your case doesn't even have a window, so shilling out money for fancy looking RAM is just a waste. Go with a simpler 2x8 DDR4. Here is a set that is faster, and cheaper. Could go even cheaper than that too, which I'd suggest.

Monitor: Get a better one if you're wanting a dream setup. 1080p 60FPS on a 1070 with this budget is a waste IMO.

Storage: You're over paying way too much here. Why do you have an HDD, SSD, and a hybrid? Drop the hybrid, and swap to a 2TB HDD from Western Digital. I would also go for Samsung 850 EVO instead. Twice the storage, great speed/quality, for only $40 more.

OS: Why do you think you need a Windows 10 PRO? It is not at all necessary for a majority of PC users. Windows Home is half the price, and will have everything you'll likely need.

The Asus MG279Q is pricey but a great ips monitor that has it all.


The Dell S2719DGF is one of the better TN panels with 1ms response.

I have a Rocksoul RSGM-27M3 A, unfortunately I believe they're sold out on amazon all they have is the Rocksoul RSGM-27M3 C, the difference is one has a nice mount and the other is butt ugly. I got mine for $270 and its fantastic. If you see the A model come back with the black mount you should nab it up.

The laptop won't be used, because I already got an laptop for school, but I might use the gaming laptop for travel etc. I could take either the SSD or HDD from the laptop, so the laptop still has one of them? Example take the SSD, and leave the HDD's behind, Or take the HDD's and leave the SSD behind, or maybe even take one of the HDD's and the SSD and leave one HDD behind? Which sounds best?

And with the money I saved there, I can buy a 650w gold PSU from EVGA for only like 30$ more ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017HA3SQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495055549&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+gq+650w&dpPl=1&dpID=51EyCz-JKoL&ref=plSrch )

Monoprice Gateron blue keyboard and 8323 headphones are both highly acclaimed for value. Promo code "scorcher" for %15 off. If you need TKL then there's no shortage of Outemu switches for $40 or less, this Teswell looks good. I haven't used these keyboards but I've bought two of the headphones. I have a pile of $30 headphones that I've reviewed and none come close. Pair them with a Neewer lapel mic or V-Moda BoomPro. In the middle ground you might try this generic desktop mic or one of the many others like it, mine sounds well enough but the BoomPro plainly takes it. At the next tier Superlux 886B or Samson SR850 with a ModMic or Blue Snowball are great during sales. Don't fall for 'gaming' branding.

Relatively straightforward:
I'm looking for a case that will house my Mini-ITX MoBo, GTX 1060 6GB, EVGA 500W PSU, 500GB HDD. Everything needs to fit comfortably with plenty of room for upgrades in the future and proper airflow. Any recommended cases would be great. Thanks!

Cpu is good.

Cpu cooler: https://www.alternate.co.uk/Cryorig/H7/html/product/1174912
That one will have better cooling at the same price.

Motherboard: You should get a Z170 board so you can overclock. If you don't want to overclock, then don't get the 6600k and a custom cooler, and instead get the 6500, and use the stock cooler on that.

Storage: perfectly fine

Video Card: As others have said, replace it will the RX 480.

PSU: Swapped it out for a slightly better psu,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-B1-0500-KR-Bronze-Power-Supply/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052059&sr=1-2&keywords=evga%5D+500

If you can afford it, go for this psu

https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-SuperNova-Fully-Modular-Supply/dp/B0141B21JG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1465052095&sr=1-4&keywords=evga+b2

Your CPU and GPU combo are great for 1440p gaming. I have a 2600 and Vega 64, and I consistently hit over 100 fps on 1440p games like Destiny 2 and Apex Legends with proper overclocks/undervolts.

From what I understand, the 2060 Super is a bit stronger than the 64 so you should be good.

I also have the same monitor and love it, so good choice there.

In regards to storage, it depends on your budget. I have this one as my boot drive, and works great: WD 500GB m.2

Obviously you can choose larger storage if your budget allows.

Power supply: EVGA 650W Power Supply

I have this one and it works reliably. According to your parts, a 650W should be safe enough, but again, your budget really determines how you go with this.

The Philips you linked are really nice, one of the best you can get for under $200 from what I've heard. But- they are open backed, meaning any one nearby will hear what's playing. If that might be an issue, you might want to look at something else. Otherwise, get them. As for a mic, this would be a great match, they plug right into the Phillips headphones in place off the 3.5mm cord.

Thank you /u/PowerRaptor. With his help I have decided to transfer everything to the Fractal Design Core 1000 Case. The price is small and it has 3 fan slots + 1 fan included. The PSU I will be upgrading to is EVGA 500B 500W 80+ BRONZE PC Power Supply. Thank you again and have a nice day.

Hey guys,

I'm building my PC ATM (I76700k, GTX 1070, Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 Go DDR4 @2800mhz...) and i have a question.

Right now i'm rocking an old 24" Asus, and i'm hesitant for my next monitor (I'll use the 24" as a second monitor) : With my config, should i go with a 24" @ 1080p or a 27" @ 1440p ?

The BenQ XL2430T

Acer Predator XG270HU (It's a freesync but i'll have a Nvidia card).

I think i'll play mostly fps (Overwatch @144hz, BF1...), fighting games and games like Rise of Tomb Raider, etc...

So yeah... why would you guys do ? And bonus question, which side would you take if i had a choice between 2 G-Syncs ?

Thanks for your time !

I'd like to keep my options open for overclocking, I'm glad to spend a little more for a 750W model. The EVGA G2 looks pretty good, I will probably get that one! Thank you for your comment.

Well, imo (and almost everyone's opinion) the best 1440p 144hz monitor on the market right now is the ASUS ROG Swift. With that you'll also get a 27" screen, 1ms response time, G-Sync, plus a lot of other great features. This one is also pricey though; it runs about $638 USD. It really is the best monitor out there right now though.

If that is a bit too much for you, there is a Dell alternative that has a lot of the same features including GSync. It is still a bit pricey at about $595 USD. IMO if you're going to get one of these two, the ASUS one is heaps better.

Those are the only two 27 inch 144hz 1440p monitors on the market right now.

If you still dont want to spend that much, there is a 24 inch Dell model for only $450 USD. This is the best option if you want all the great features (GSync, 1440p, 144hz, 1ms response time, etc). This one isn't as good as the first two, but it is under $500 USD.

Honestly, that build will probably draw around 400-450 watts on full load. So if you're not planning on going SLI, i personally wouldn't, I would get a 600-650 watt PSU for some headroom. The EVGA SuperNOVA line tends to be pretty good, this one would work great.

Headphone & Mic,
or just a headset that's very decent.

These aren't the best of the best, but they are good. They both have breathable ear pads so your ears won't get all sweaty.

Check other sites or Amazon's warehouse deals for the best price.

Antec HCP750 Platinum for $80 after rebate.

There are a variety of reviews for the 850W model, and it's one of the best possible PSUs you can buy for that wattage. It was largely slammed for its $200+ retail price, but at under $100, I think you ignore that.

There's the EVGA G2 750W for $90 with no rebates required. Almost as good as the HCP, just giving another option.

If you actually need the extra 100W, then the GS is going to offer you the best value.

Asus Rog swift is really good if you have the dime. Can get up to 165hz, great color. Buy used from Amazon to save a bunch on it.
https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-DisplayPort-Adjustable-Ergonomic-EyeCare/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=asus+rog+swift&qid=1562458214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

My dad is pretty sold on Amazon. He's been a pretty loyal customer since the years ago and he hasn't tried any other retailer.

I've looked around and I've found some options. The lower the price the better it is for me. Tell me what you think of these:

• $70/650W
  
• $74/700W
  
• $85/650W
  
• $90/620W
  
  
  
  Also, if my estimated wattage is 310W will I need double of that? Could I settle on 500W instead?

A few recommendations

1. Bump up to a R9 270X http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GDDR5-2GB-2xDVI-Graphics-GV-R927XOC-2GD/dp/B00FONITCE/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
2. Bump up to a FX6350 http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6350FRHKBOX-FX-6350-6-Core-Black/dp/B00CLBZAHY/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
3. Get a nicer motherboard http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GA-970A-UD3P-970-AM3-DDR3/dp/B00FRJL1RA/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
4. Do not get a 3 TB HDD, they have a higher chance to fail than single-platter drives, also you probably just need two 1 TBs http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
5. Grab a solid state drive, you will love it http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Solid-SDSSDHP-128G-G25/dp/B0093HMKVI/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
6. Let's bump up the wattage http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-M12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GM%C2%A0/dp/B003HE260I/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
7. This is a nice case http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Gaming-Tower-Black-R5/dp/B007VER010/?tag=logicaincrem-20
   
   
8. You don't need those case fans

I just bought this monitor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSOND8C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I had been using a 1920x1080 before this with a gtx 970, and I was struggling to maintain 50-60 fps on max settings on Black Desert Online, same w/ Witcher 3 and a HEAVILY modded skryrim (I have 3 monitors, will continue to have 3 after the new arrives, giving the extra to my roomy)

What graphics card should I upgrade to? I'm not sure if I should wait and see if a better one is coming out soon (BDO won't be playable until later in Q1 2016 anyway) or go ahead and get some variant of the 980 ti or a Titan (keep hearing its not necessary to get that much vram?)

Any help would be appreciated so I could get those 2 games to run smoothly on my higher resolution, and mod my skyrim some more lmao.

Silicon Power S60 120/240gb

Crucial MX100

Mushkin Chronos

I own one of each of these, and they're all very good so far. The Silicon Power ones have some of the best technical reviews out there right now, and I've been loving mine

All right then, you do what I did, my budget was almost identical to yours, Link to my build post please note that i'm in the uk and parts are more expensive

Go for an AMD build similar to mine with your GPU, Because your GPU kicks my GPU's ass, PRO tip Buy your parts over the course of a month,prices rise and fall and you wanna buy when cheap, set up price alerts on pcpartpicker, when a certain product goes below a certain price it will e-mail you, Check Amazon marketplace. It might say for example: 18 new from £75.44 like Here, almost every time, you will find the product cheaper than what pcpartpicker is telling you. Also if you are getting an ssd, get the one I linked, I own the same one and its very cheap and very good, if not maybe go for samsung 840 evo for a little more cost.

Slightly more riskier tip: check out ebay. But only from reputable sellers, make sure to take into account the delivery costs, that can be a mistake that takes you over budget when buying parts and also paying more than you thought.

Last but not least, check reviews for every single product you buy, every single one...and from multiple sources. It's your money, be wise about it, a fool and his money are soon parted.

Good luck ;)

Short Answer: Yes, safe bet, can't go wrong (but $$$)

Long Answer: ...

Not exactly as your PC (hopefully) isn't pulling more than 2/3rds of that under max. load. Also something to keep in mind is what else you are plugging into the UPS. Many people put the Monitor as well an accessory or two (like a desk lamp & wireless router/modem) on the battery backup. You can safely put stuff like printers & speakers on the surge protection plugs as they don't pull from the battery.

There is an awesome product called Kill A Watt that you can plug in the wall & see exactly how much juice stuff is using.

But I'm gonna make some assumptions here ... Let's say you want to keep stuff up for at least 15mins (in total blackout) with a monitor, light & modem, likely pushing around ~ 500+ watts , worst case in a "critical gaming session" with everything you want on.

Something like the CyberPower CP1000 or the APC BR1000G would be your best bets.

You can go with a lessor UPS (e.g. less battery power & cheaper), but this will lessen the amount of time you can keep your equipment on & put extra stain on the UPS (or too low, the UPS just won't work & kill the power). Look at a PSU & UPS like a car engine, if you redline it all the time, things will wear out & blow up fast.

Personally my brother doesn't care about the mouse or keyboard but what do you think of this monitor. It has good reviews and my friend who owns one says its great too. I don't want to go overboard with the monitor because I'm running low on funds.

Any recommended dual monitor stands with independent heigh adjustment?

I have a dual monitor stand who he'd worked great when I was using two identical 22in monitors. Upgraded one of them to 27" and unfortunately they do not line up well. Guess that shouldn't be much of a surprise.

Was wondering if anyone could recommend a dual monitor stand with independent height adjustments... or if anyone has attempted to fabricate a height adjustment adapter for vesa mounts. Basically would just be a plate with slots or appropriate hole offsets to reach desired height. Might be a fun project.

Thoughts?

Phillips SHP9500. And a v moda proboom mic set:

https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466300534&sr=8-1&keywords=vmoda+boom+pro+mic

SHP9500 punch way above their weight, like $200+. They are open back headphones which gives you a great sound stage (important for gaming). And you can plug that mic set into them. This is the best and most versatile setup imo. Also the bang per buck is top notch.

The truth is that it will be adequate in most situations, but AAA gaming will leave you craving for a better GPU. However, the thing to keep in mind is that monitors tend to outlast computers and definitely GPU's, so you will be future proofing yourself.

By the way, you mean the XB271HU right? Another option for you is the Aorus monitor now that it's back in stock. The build quality on that monitor is better but it won't be as good for FPS gaming, so given that fact that that's your primary purpose I would say stick the with the Predator.

Look into something like monitor arms, they give you freedom to move monitors around more than normal stands.

There's also more basic arms like this one if you don't need quite as much freedom as the other monitor arm.

I would love to say that I have had no issue with the motherboard. I have had one. This motherboard in particular does not allow you to install Windows 7 from a USB drive or a USB optical drive. Here is the manual for the motherboard if you are curious.:

"Note: Due to chipset limitation, during the Windows 7 installation process, USB optical drives or USB flash drives are not supported."

Because I didn't have a Windows 10 license, I had to install Windows 7 first before I could upgrade. Which btw, if you are installing straight to Windows 8 or 10, you can use a flash drive/USB optical drive.

Other than that one issue, I am quite happy with it :)

Edit: I like your build. I was going to originally get the RAM you have chosen but when I was watching HardwareCanuck's YouTube channel and saw what RAM he had, I went ahead and went with the Avexir Core Series Blue because it matched the color scheme of my case. I am curious though, you don't want to go with the PSU that I chose? It's the same price as what you chose. I'm guessing you don't need that much power then, yeah?

Probably this Dell or the new Nixeus Edg V2. The Dell has really good colors for a TN panel and overall a great monitor. The Nixeus is the cheapest good IPS panel you can buy at 1440p, 144hz. It was released on March 1st and quickly sold out. New stock is coming in soon. I would put in an order sooner than later cause I am sure it's going to sell out again.

i5 6600k vs i5 4690k , the skylake should win.

1440p wise i'd say these two are your best options for a tv.
1440p 144hz

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-XG270HU-omidpx-FREESYNC-Widescreen/dp/B00VRCLHYS/ref=sr_1_1?tag=amazon0606-20&ie=UTF8&qid=1430272001&sr=8-1&keywords=acer+xg270hu+omidpx



vs


http://www.amazon.com/Acer-G257HU-smidpx-25-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00QS0AKVK?tag=amazon0606-20

1440p 60hz

>Would getting a higher RPM HDD really be worth it for gaming?

If this matters to you, upgrade to the 256 GB model of that SSD. You'll see much more significant differences that way.

>Need help in choosing a cheap'ish case

There's a good deal on the Corsair 200R right now that brings it down to $39.99 over here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139018

>any area where I can possibly save money or get a better alternative?

Instead of one giant 2TB drive at $180, buy two 1TB drives for $60 each here:

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

Also, are you really planning on overclocking? Because you're paying a hefty premium for that in both the CPU and the motherboard, which is money that you can save.

Your choice of RAM is overpriced. Look around on Amazon and Newegg for better deals.

Consider a microATX motherboard, they're usually half the price and no less powerful. The main difference is they have fewer PCI slots, but if you're only getting one video card, it won't matter to you.

this is the bundle: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-Savage-SHSS3B7A-240G/dp/B00W35L6DA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474334361&sr=1-2&keywords=ssd+240+gb+savage
What PSU should i get then? This: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0650-Y1/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474334300&sr=1-1&keywords=EVGA+G2 ?
And I know it will be free space on the case, the thing is that i liked it... Is there any case that you suggest me? Also, thanks for helping me out, mate!

hmmm, I've never heard of that happening, but the G2 is the improved model of the G1 so it makes sense. It is however $10 more on Amazon which is where I'll be buying most of my parts from. Is it worth the extra $10? Here's the link to it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106RDIN2/ref=twister_B01LXKQ07C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is somewhat PC related, more having to do with monitors.

I have 2 QNIX 27" monitors. Each weighs roughly 18 pounds. After a coffee-ant accident, I've decided I wanted to eventually lift the monitors off the desk to help make space, make them at a more comfortable viewing angle and avoid coffee-ants.

I am Canadian (hence Amazon.ca)

Looking to spend up to $100 on a dual-monitor stand.

Would one like below be considered a good enough stand, I know the brackets are the right type:

Dual LCD Monitor Desk Mount Stand

Also, if you have some input you'd like to give, it'd be greatly appreciated. Fucking coffee-ants, man.

Ok, so all from Amazon, shipping to Australia. There are a few things that are more expensive, I will get those locally. I upgraded to an i5 6600k.

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5 6600K 3.50 GHz | $298.00
CPU Cooler|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO |$38.88
Motherboard | ASRock Motherboard Micro ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 H110M-HDS | $64.00
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $64.00
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $98.00
Storage | WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM | $68.00
Video Card | MSI GAMING Radeon RX 480 GDDR5 4GB | $272.00 (-$27 rebate)
Case | DeepCool TX Mid Tower TESSERACT SW | $61.00
Power Supply | EVGA 500 B1, 80+ BRONZE 500W | $66.72
|
| Total | $1029


Now, I have a few questions.

• How will I know if the cooler is going to fit and not be in the way of anything?
  
  
• I can't seem to find any small cases that have the features of the larger ones (vents, top and side fans). Should I just stay with a larger case?
  
  
• I need an s/pdif optical for my speakers. Should I get a pcie card or external usb?
  
  
• How will I know if the video card hangs over the spare pcie slot?
  
  
• WiFi - USB vs Pcie?
  

This one is probably gonna be your best bet! Great value for the money too!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nT36BbTN6VQ99

hi, I have this monitor:

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XG270HU-omidpx-FREESYNC-Widescreen/dp/B00VRCLHYS

which you can find for $300 or less on /r/buildapcsales fairly often, and an RX 480 8GB, which is basically the power equivalent of a GTX 1060 from what I gather. You may want to look into something more powerful if it's in your budget.

The monitor supports FreeSync (AMD) and it's definitely the nicest monitor I've ever owned. I haven't had any problems with it.

You have an unlocked processor (meant for overclocking) and an H170 motherboard (cannot overclock). If you want to overclock, you need a Z170 board. If you don't want to, then you should get the i5-6600 (or 6500) - no "k" on the end.

For a couple bucks more, the EVGA G2 is a better power supply

You are handcuffing your framerates a little bit with that monitor since it is only 60hz, and it's a little expensive as far as 60hz IPS panels are concerned. You can get cheaper 60hz IPS panels, or you can spend more cash on a high refresh rate monitor instead

I assume you are buying all your parts on Amazon for some reason, however, I would highly recommend looking at jet.com for the video card. They are running a promotion right now, for 15% (up to $30) off your first 3 orders, with code "triple15" - you can save a good deal on a 1060 there instead of paying close to $300 on Amazon.

What type of resolution are you trying to output? Are you going for 4k, 1440 or simply 1080p?

I mean competitive gaming is done at 1080p at 144fps. But if are you going for pure smooth eye candy the best choice might be something in 1440p with gsync above 75fps.

here is a 1080p monitor http://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/curved/lc27fg70fqnxza-lc27fg70fqnxza/?cid=pla-ecom-mul-27,000,002

here is a 1440p monitor

https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1495937097&sr=8-6&keywords=1440p+144hz+gsync

But i'm not a monitor guru. I mean its up to you to decide what you requirement for resolution and FPS output is.

I recently just got a 29in ultrawide IPS with freesync for my RX480 build and it's amazing. But putting a $250 monitor with your build is going to gimp it severely, to the point where a more midrange build would make more sense and save you money.

Should i wait for tomorrow to buy parts? I see that this ssd is on discount and to me it looks like a great price for being a samsung ssd. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

im also looking for ram and a 1660ti, should i expect good prices tomorrow or might as well order now?

For graphics cards comparison, take a look at this article. You can gauge for yourself how much you want out of your graphics card, and how much you want to put in now.

At least as far as gaming goes though, you will notice the most significant increase in performance with an extra few dollars going to your GFX card as opposed to RAM or the Mobo.

Again, consider whether you need the optical drive. If you have another device with an optical drive (your laptop), you can use that to burn an iso to a usb if you are installing software.

If you are a student and have access to an ethernet connection, consider skipping the wireless network card.

Additional savings (possibly), a used 1TB HDD from amazon: link

Good Luck!

Should be able to find a better deal on a power supply. This is not even a particularly good bargain:

EVGA Supernova 650 G3, 80 Plus Gold 650W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan, 7 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0650-Y1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DnaCbJ6SC64C

EVGA has Wednesday bargains each week. Watch those for both the PSU and GPU. Some is b-stock, but some is brand new with full warranty and a big discount.

Edit: also save a few bucks and grab a Mugen 5 air cooler. For $45, it will cool as well as an AIO but it is damn near silent.

Scythe Mugen 5 CPU Cooler Sealed Precision FDB Kaze Flex 120mm PWM Fan (SCMG-5100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6CR4GH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hJnaCbGYKWANP

I'd recommend, budget dependant, get a good set of headphones and something like a modmic.

Personally I use a set of vmoda m100's and the vmoda boom mic and love the combo, and I can use the headphones in public.

Heqdphones - http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Crossfade-Over-Ear-Noise-Isolating-Headphone/dp/B00A39PPDK

Mic - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ17WKK/ref=s9_al_bw_g23_i1

Mic can be used with any headset that has a 3.5mm removable cable

Given you're going to be at 1080p with a reasonably powerful card for the job, just going 144hz without any G-SYNC will save you some coin. You'll likely be able to push 100+ FPS easily with most games and the screen tearing will be next to unnoticeable, especially if you've never done anything above 60hz before.

The only way you'll know you don't have G-SYNC is if you've used it before and gotten used to the luxury. Don't get me wrong though, G-SYNC is very nice and spoils you.

BenQ ZOWIE XL2411P Non G-SYNC Suggestion (~$250)

Acer Predator XB241H G-SYNC Suggestion (~$340)

idk if this sale is going on in the UK too, but right now the 650W supernova G3 is on sale at amazon for $70. It should be plenty of power and has pretty fantastic build quality (i.e., it wont randomly catch fire).

I bought the Acer 144hz monitor you're referring to, based off the excitement and recommendations of the folks on /r/buildapcsales.

Prior to that sale, I also bought this monitor.


This is my first build, and I don't need dual monitors and am not ultra competitive in FPS games. However, the 144hz monitor was only $15 more than the 60hz, so it seemed like a no brainer.


Now I'm wondering if the 144hz isn't such a great idea. I want my $1000 PC to last a while and keep up with the current games. It sounds like if I try to keep up with AAA games with the 144hz monitor, it will require a stronger build than sticking with the 60hz.

Can I run the 144hz monitor at 60hz or will that be an issue? I need to decide which monitor to return, any insights would be appreciated!

How does this Dell monitor compare to the Acer Predator ones? I'll soon be ordering 2x monitors from either of these brands in 27" 144hz 2560x1440 and both are thin bezel monitors so it all comes down to which is best.


Acer Predator (TN)

Acer Predator (IPS)

Dell (TN)


I would appreciate some insight in this as I don't really have much knowledge as to what to look for on monitors :)

About to pull the trigger on the 1440p 144hz monitor... Looking at Amazon's website which one is the right one?? My research tells me the 2nd one is the right one, but what's the difference between them?

ASUS ROG SWIFT PG27AQ 27" Screen LED-lit Monitor $889

ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q 27" Screen LED-Lit Monitor $769

ASUS ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27-Inch 2560 x 1440 Display 144Hz Refresh Rate WQHD G-SYNC Monitor $669

Link is here

https://www.amazon.com/SWIFT-PG279Q-Screen-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20

Looks like a solid build, Including a wide 1440p monitor could easily bring you over 1500, so heres some options to reduce the price on your current one without impacting performance.

1: switch to a good quality b450 motherboard. This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHH4YG4?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 supports ryzen 3rd gen out of the box.

2: Go down to a 650 watt power supply. This one https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=650+watt+power+supply&qid=1572129915&s=electronics&sr=1-3 is listed for 25$ less than your 750.

4: This ssd https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=1tb+nvme+ssd&qid=1572130266&s=electronics&sr=1-7 is 50$ cheaper with the same storage and read/write speeds of 3,500/2,500 MB/s (samsung), 3450 MB/s (read) and 3000 MB/s (write). (sabrent)

If you have a PSU thats capable of it, (my Corsair AXi is) you can get that from other. Otherwise your best bet is to go out and buy a thing that you plug to the outlet and it shows you your actual power draw. Its like 20- or 30 bucks. Something like this. But there isnt a software or mobo way to find out your exact pull as far as i know.

check this place out!

after you find something within your budget on this subbredit, come back and ask what you can make better! Also so you don't have to put more money towards some of the pieces that are harder to replace (like the motherboard, since you literally will have to take everything off to upgrade this), i suggest a better motherboard within the price you can afford, a good one can run from $90 to about $150 or so.

Last thing i forgot to mention is that some of the parts that are referred can also be switched out with an equivalent in performance and stuff and sometimes cheaper. like the wesgate hdd in the first build can be switched with a seagate

It's $117 on Amazon. That's not bad. You think it's a better choice?

EDIT: I think you added "Even that's way better" after I replied

Okay, I'll probably change that. I wish the price was going the other way though!

Depends heavily on what kind of games you play. If you play mainly eSports games (Counter Strike, Overwatch, League, etc.) then a 1440p 144Hz+ monitor is your best bet. My recommendation is the Dell S2719DGF. I got one myself and it was one of the most significant upgrades I've ever made. The colors are vibrant and I've faced no issues at all. Running with G-SYNC enabled on a 1080Ti.

I'd say if you want to play in 1440p on high settings and get high frame rate across a wide range of games, going with a GTX 1070 or waiting for VEGA are really your two options. So considering that, that upgrade budget if pretty tight. You could go with 1080p high refresh rate, or try to shoot for 60fps at 1440p with the RX 480, but know that you won't hit 60 on ultra in every game.

So since pcp is down right now, here's a rough breakdown:
GTX 1070 or Future Equivilent: ~$400
Motherboard: ~$100 (if you want to overclock)
CPU: ~$200 for an i5, ~$300 FOR i7 or Zen Equivilent
Then 16GB of DDR4 ram is another ~$100

So if you go all the way with your upgrade to have a basically brand new system, you're looking at about an $800 upgrade to go to high refresh rate 1440p gaming.

It looks to me like there wouldn't be a ridiculous difference in price between freesync and gsync. If you want a 24" monitor though, there arent really any good freesync ones, so you would need to go 27" which would be about on par wiith the cost of a 24" g-sync monitor. You can get a dell 1440p 144hz g-sync 24" for $400 or a 27" for $600(goes on sale for 500). And you can get a 27" freesync 144hz asus for ~$450.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XG270HU-omidpx-FREESYNC-Widescreen/dp/B00VRCLHYS

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Gaming-S2716DG-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B0149QBOF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484492053&sr=8-1&keywords=dell+144hz

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2417DG-YNY1D-24-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B01IOO4SGK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484492053&sr=8-2&keywords=dell+144hz

So I don't see much of an issue going g-sync, but you could potentially save money on a 27" monitor.

This one probably has the best price to performance in the 1440p/144hz/IPS/GSYNC market.

The Strix and OC models will have some of the best cooling on the market, making them some of the best performers. EVGA has some good options too.

9700k vs 9900k in today's games are virtually the same. It is a difference of 2-3 frames, which you obviously won't notice. Again, idk how much processing power you will need for software development, but the $125 spent on the 9900k would not give you a relevant increase in gaming performance. Games just aren't really using more than 8 threads yet. The games of tomorrow probably will be so the 9900k will be able to keep up longer, but today, you won't see a difference.

Trust me, just go with the clamp. You screw it on tightly and it will never come loose and your desk will never break because of it. It saves you A LOT of desk space and looks better. Any of these two work great:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009S750LA/?coliid=ISBS70U6LT7WL&colid=3DAWKGIVC6IY8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FPWXALE/?coliid=I2IAXYGI0TA0ZC&colid=3DAWKGIVC6IY8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hi!

Thanks so much for the advice, I'm happy to hear I won't need a full tower. That's a relief!

Just to confirm, this is the PSU I'd swap it out for: Does this work?

If you take off the side panel there should be a sticker on the side of the power supply with it's specifications. If you wan't a good cheap graphics card I recommend the GTX 1050 ti for $150, and if you do want to upgrade the power supply as well EVGA has a nice 80+ bronze 500 watt for under $50. Would be great choices and with shipping you would be paying around $200 probably.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler | $32.96 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI X570-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $159.99 @ B&H
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | HP EX900 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Zotac GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING Video Card | $339.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $64.90 @ Amazon
Monitor | MSI Optix MAG241C 23.6" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | $209.99 @ B&H
Keyboard | Logitech K840 Wired Standard Keyboard | $59.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Philips SHP9500 Headphones | $69.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1316.78
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-11 20:32 EDT-0400 |

Cheaper CPU with more multi-thread performance, only a tiny loss in single thread performance.

Faster + cheaper RAM.

Much faster SSD.

https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Kingston-A400-120GB-vs-HP-EX920-NVMe-PCIe-M2-512GB/m229920vsm486240

Less expensive case.

Higher quality power supply.

Better headphones and keyboard.

You will need a mic to add to the headphones, which is $30 and higher quality than pretty much any integrated headset mic.

https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Microphone-Gaming-Communication/dp/B00BJ17WKK

I think the general advice is to get a nice pair of headphones and use a mic adapter like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK

Personally, I got a Logitech G933 on sale during the holidays and am happy with them.