So I did this on a phone I picked up off Craigslist. I would recommend using a long razor knife to remove the screen if possible.

The trick is to work the glass down from the top until you can get the blade fully extended so it sticks out the far side of the phone (between the glass and the LCD).
If you can keep the right amount of heat in front of the blade, it will just peal off and you won't have to worry about damaging the LCD if you keep the blade at a slight upward angle. There is a Youtube video where I discovered it, I'll try to find it. Edit: Not the exact video, but a similar method. I wouldn't use a ruler due to thickness, less likely to damage bezel around the screen though.

Start at the top, be careful around the speaker grill, also be careful at the bottom, the menu buttons are taped onto the glass, you'll want to carefully remove them with something like a guitar pick or plastic spudger.

You can just tape the sides, it works, but it doesn't look great, when you press down on the glass, you see it make contact with the LCD.

Using LOCA glue is your best bet for a nice finish, but the con of that is you have to remove the LCD from the phone for a neat job.

I was able to use LOCA glue to bond the glass to the LCD with the LCD still in the phone, but there was a lot of cleanup afterwards. You also run the risk of damaging the LCD with the uncured LOCA.

As for glass, I'm sure there are some better than others, I just got a cheap $5 one off of Amazon. Not exceptionally high quality, but it worked.

TLDR: Use a long razor blade for easier removal, LOCA glue has a better finish, but taping is much easier.

Edit: I forgot to mention, using Goof Off works pretty well to remove the left over glue after the glass is all removed, just use some rubbing alcohol afterwards to clean up the goof off residue.

I don't own this yet, but I will soon enough to replace my existing multiscrewdriver. I had been looking for a leatherman with a pentalobe screw, but I couldn't find one. I looked top to bottom, this is the best thing I can find to keep clipped on the inside of my right pocket for general computer/mobile device repair.

iOpener. I don't have this exact product, but something close enough to it. Recently used it at my new job to open up an iPad 3 cracked digi, easiest and quickest way I've ever opened an iPad, didn't nick the WiFi cable or anything. Way better than the heatgun and spudger I was using at my last job, way less of a mess to clean up too.

Shame on me, but one of these in the middle or towards the end of the day keeps me motivated.

The hot tweezers were tools that I liked having, but honestly after a while did not use very much.

I don't even recommend buying the micropencil. You can get a T15-ILS that is the same diameter as the micropencil T31-I series.

That eliminates the need for having a separate set of equipment as the T15 (including the ILS tip) series is compatible with the 951. Sure you have to change your tips more often if you want to use it, but the only time I use a tip that fine was for jumpers. Just about everything else requires more heat to accomplish.

You will have a slightly longer tip (13.5mm vs 6mm), but I never found those extra 7.5mm to be an issue.

To each their own though, that's just my opinion.

I have a huge stockpile of phone tools from ordering phone parts from Amazon, but my favorite tool to use is one that I found at Wal-Mart. It is a 90 degree metal pick made by Stanley, and it is perfect for unhooking clips and antenna cables and even does well for prying. I use it to unhook everything after the battery of course...http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-82-115-Piece-Hook-Set/dp/B000FBQEQ8

Stick with tools you like using and tools that work well. I have the 64-bit iFixit Pro kit and love it, but I've replaced many of the included tools that came with it. I am always on the search for tools that make my job easier, faster and produce better results. I even sometimes make my own tools or experiment with different materials for picks. I add grips, sharpen/shape my metals tools to aid whatever I'm doing.

But my favorit-est tool? 0.6mm Nylon Guitar Picks

Your never going to get it out with JUST a suction cup.
You need extra help

Lets look at the displacement of the glass to do this properly. Most tools are not either sharp enough or curved enough to do this without possibly shattering the glass. The #10 curved x-acto blade will be able to displace the glass well enough that it does not shatter from to much pressure in one location.

Take a #10 xacto blade and just run it up and down the bottom of the preheated glass. It works on the same concept as using a cut card to release a galaxy s5 screen. With a suction cup also at the bottom to lift as you slide right under the glass/paint. Perfect every time. Once you get any sort of entrance into the glass. You just slip a card in., add a little heat around the entire glass and zip zip zip zip, your done.

here are the exact blades i order from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NAUBA

I also think having the more flimsy #10 blades that come in Chinese kits are amazing as well in their own right. They are very soft compared to the harder blades i linked to.

Videos will be made soon for this as well.

Do you have a [MicroSD to USB](http://www.SanDisk.com/ SDDR-121-A11M MobileMate Micro Memory Card Reader (Red/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WR3Z3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.-HwybFJTA8YP) or [MicroSD to SD](http://www.SanDisk.com/ microSD to SD Memory Card Adapter (MICROSD-ADAPTER) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047WZOOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R9Hwyb56DM4Y3) adapter you could use? I tend to have more luck that way with recovering an external storage. Very useful to have, as well as [these](http://www.SanDisk.com/ Ultra Dual USB Drive 3.0 (SDDD2-064G-GAM46) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVOLBQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IbIwybP90CCQ8).

I use this one http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419728850&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

Works great. For water damaged electronics I mix denatured alcohol and distilled water to 80 percent. Finish with a quick dip into pure denatured alcohol and dry under a heat lamp.

I dont charge bench fees. If I bring the phone back to life I charge about 40% of the retail value of the phone.

If the phone got wet and still works but they want to be sure it doesn't get damaged further I charge a flat $45 for a quick teardown, scrub and wash.

I clean jewelry and stuff for customers free of charge while they wait for their phones. I use a different mix depending on material.

The only parts you should be putting in the USC is the motherboard or a daughter board with no microphone/speakers or plastic bits on it. You can wash frames if they are stripped of everything. A hot USC bath will fuck up all the adhesives so be prepared to strip those before hand and replace them.

USC cleaners can be harsh. Dont make the mistake of putting plastics in it. The heat and chemicals will do strange things to them.

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" 3/4oz Dispense-Pak http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AYJ0B7Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395671772&sr=1-7&keywords=kester+44


Desoldering Wick - 2mm http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17541-Desoldering-Wick-Width/dp/B003E48ERK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395672458&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+braid


No Clean Flux Paste http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395672365&sr=8-2&keywords=flux

Solder Tip Cleaner

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Holder/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395673163&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+tip+cleaner

That's a good kit. It's becoming pretty popular because a lot of "how do i fix this searches" end up pointing to ifixit; plus, it's affordable. I have both of these sets (1 - 2).

1 stays at home on top of a work bench.

2 stays in a bag that rides in my truck. I probably use the power driver in #2 more than I use any of the hand drivers from #1.

The only thing I don't have in these kits are pentalobes, but I can't even buy an iphone screen without being sent pentalobe drivers and shitty openers.

I use this day in and day out. Does its job and never fails.

I was looking at this one. What do you guys think?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002V2FEQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1JX5VIUKL6HSF&psc=1

What product tape, and what application? Most tapes are not recommended for the inside of electronics because of heat problems weakening the adhesive, ESD, and conductivity.

We usually use Kapton tape at work, but this one might work just as well.