(Part 3) Top products from r/techsupportgore

You can actually replace the switches wholesale (I think, my mouse is the trackman wheel, but I would imagine they'd use similar switch hardware), which sounds way safer and less fiddly than trying to mess with the tiny spring by hand. You just need a soldering iron, desoldering braid and a bit of solder to reattach the switches, all of which are very useful for other things as well.

Looks like the switch manufacturer sells two-packs of the G500 switches, presumably for exactly this purpose.

Might i suggest something like this Honeywell CG511A1000 Medium Inner Shelf to Prevent Tampering Thermostat Guard, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DwcGDbM6JA9R4 cheap effective and practical for your issue...

Edit: Might be too small after thinking about it but probably could make something that would fit the switch

If you're interested in learning to solder, you can get a cheapo beginner's kit for less than $20. These take about an hour or two for a novice to get through. It's a nice card to add to your man deck without investing too much time or money.

I've used both rubbing alcohol and ArctiClean to remove thermal paste and ended up finding that the ArctiClean worked a bit better than alcohol. Although if I remember right, the stuff in the first bottle is just the stuff in Goo Gone, and the second bottle is just something that can clean the residue up easier.

Tl;dr: Rubbing alcohol works, but they also make stuff meant for the task.

Monkey Hook ftw!

Honestly, it seems possible to build a logger that is about the same size and shape as that jack and stuff it into an unassuming enclosure. Since transaction data doesn't take up a lot of space, it could just sit there for a week or so, sniffing up card info.

More like this one.

One wall clock could probably fit quite a few mice.
Amazon - Prime Eligible - $8.86

If they're too lazy to give the antenna a dedicated circuit they could at least save themselves the trouble of others turning it off with a keyed switch:

http://www.amazon.com/SEYMOUR-PS20AC1L-Single-Toggle-Switch/dp/B000BVXVW2

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05018-Lectra-Motive-Electric-Cleaner/dp/B000BXHWCA

Hey man, at least it's surge protected.

It's not often I get to change a strangers life...

A decent inexpensive replacement, Android 9.0 Car Stereo 7 inch DVD Player for GMC Chevy Silverado 1500 2012 Quad Core Double Din in Dash Touchscreen FM/AM Radio Receiver Navigation with Rear View Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG6Q1L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iyUKDb8WAPNJN sorry about the link gore.

I succeeded 3 years ago with a combination of Allen Carr's book and the r/stopsmoking sub for support. I failed numerous times to quit before then because I didn't recognize how much of a psychological battle it really was.

Well, most of the time that i have seen computers with damaged power supply units (the kind that goes inside the case) its actually because they were plugged in on that kind of cheap power strips, i get what you mean, some DECENT power strips DO come with voltage spike protectors, and UPS batteries also protect from power spikes / blackouts, but those power strips in the picture look cheap.

if you can see the lightbulbs in the house dim a tiny bit when they use the microwave / washing machine / fridge, those voltage variations can damage the power supply over time. thats why i usually recommend at least a voltage regulator for the PC they usually look like this

if the computer is connected to a UPS its a bit more protected, because, in case of a blackout, it gives you time to stop whatever you are doing and turn off the computer, then people usually turn off the UPS because as its not receiving power from the wall outlet it will be beeping constantly, so, when the power comes back, the power surge is stopped at the UPS, then if you want to use the computer again you have to turn on the UPS and then the computer, while the power strips in the picture would stay in the ON position allowing the power spike to reach the power supply in the machine, and probably damaging it.

would one of these help expel the extra heat being pushed around in there?

If you are looking for a way out of that unfortunate situation...

KISS method: Keep it Simple Stupid.

I had a similar situation just the other day at work. One of the shop floors PCs couldn't get on the network. I went to take a look, checked the IP address, and it had the standard 169.254 IP. Disabled the adapter, re-enabled the adapter, said cable wasn't connected. Reconnected the cables at both the PC and the wall, still no IP. Grabbed a cable tester: pins 1, 4 and 6 were out. Put a new end on one end, and voila. All working.

Grab one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/TRENDnet-Network-Cable-Tester-TC-NT2/dp/B0000AZK08
It saves hours of trouble.

I have to admit that while I would hate to actually work in this kind of disorder, I do find it strangely appealing, it is a mess and it probably work good enough, but it is also fascinating, there is one guy who knows in general how everything is connected.

reminds me of my dads flight sim setup back in the days before USB.

He had a setup with a Suncom F-15e joystick, a throttle control from the same series (http://weirdscience.us/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_2989.jpg) and pedals: https://www.amazon.com/CH-Products-Pedals-Simulator-300-111/dp/B0000512IE

all of this was connected into eatchother, there were even a PS/2 and DIN keyboard passthrough, no idea of how it actually was connected, other than using gameport and a keyboard passthrough, there were cabels going all over the place, and somehow he got it to work as one game controller in Windows 95/98 and Flightsimulator 98.

It was damn cool....

These days you just connect them all to their own USB port, while I wouldn't go back, I still miss those times...

I wonder if the controllers are still at my parrents and if they are working...