Reddit reviews 5 Pcs Dual Row 5 Position Screw Terminal Strip 600V 15A + 400V 15A 5 Postions Pre Insulated Terminal Barrier Strip Red /Black 10 Pcs

Looks very nice. I'm an electrician, put in a lot of lights, and I think your frame within a frame idea is spot on; it's a great way to design a light so it can be installed or taken down without juggling the entire fixture on the top of a ladder.

Your use of the wagos to make a "busbar" was a very creative way of making neat wiring. An alternative would be to use terminal strips with jumpers and if you want to make the wiring super neat, use sticky backs and zip ties.

Great stuff!

Just some cheap plastic spacers. Works perfectly. Links:

Spacers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G1Q300/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nuts:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EFSE32/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Washers:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GA116M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also worth noting:
Power supply (40A version):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HTM53W6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used with these terminal strips:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010UDG6NG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Way better than USBs.

limit/home switches if you want them (you should)

an e-stop - you probably have this

fan for the electronics case

power switch/plug for the power supply - you probably have this

connectors for wires (eg to get e-stop and limit switch wires into the case and connected. I use xlr plugs like These and these.

I also use these to help with wiring the limit/home switches in the case, but you may not need them, depending on what you use.

Thanks.

I have two cars and three 'projects'.

One underhood project:

1. Electronically-switched oil accumulator (accusump). Just ignition-hot.
   
2. Subtle under-hood lighting (no rice - subtle - will be playing around with it. Might decide it looks like shit, and not do it.) Might also install a switchable work light in case something needs to be done at night.
   
3. My own version of a lojack that I haven't gotten around to building. Also, if possible, have it control a secondary fuel pump relay to make the fuel pump die; basically an interlock that makes the car seem broken instead of locked.
   
   Two under-dash projects that are identical, one for each car:
   
   
4. Hard-wired radar detector
   
5. Hard-wired dash cam
   
6. Hard-wired USB outputs - one or two dual-12v-to-USB converters
   
7. Potentially the lojack-equivalent's battery charger (since it would have a separate small battery)
   
   The hard part is figuring out where to get a non-fused 12V supply under the dash. An add-a-fuse circuit is very appealing and I should find places where an extra 5-10A won't pop anything, so I may end up doing one 5-10A-add-a-fuse on an ignition-hot line, instead of a 12v-master-fuse + ignition-hot-relay, as the single master fuse for all these.
   
   Then it would just be a 15A strip terminal instead of a big fat 100A ground bar at the ground side, and a small fuse box at the positive side (with 1A or 2A fuses for each circuit, depending on their needs).
   
   ---
   
   I really appreciate your feedback. The only reason I haven't already built all this is because of worries of fucking up and coming back to a smoldering ash heap.
   
   ---
   
   I'm also figuring out how to mount all this securely under the hood... I figure these little wire clamps for the wires, and something like this velcro alternative to mount things like the fuse box, except it's hard to tell what temperature they're rated for (and it seems that the 3M stuff I linked will fall off due to heat.) Any ideas there? I want something that is 1) secure as fuck, but 2) that I could potentially remove without damage in the future, maybe using a heat gun or something. I would be mounting it mostly to plastic, but I don't want to drill any holes if possible.

My thought would be to move the hunter up about a foot. I have opened mine once since i installed it..

Replace (or close up the knock outs) the HV box with a new one. Run flex out the bottom up to the hunter power.
https://imgur.com/a/iwK4rPp

Between the LV box and the hunter add another box (9x9). Splice via terminal strip in this box

Some thing like https://www.amazon.com/Position-Terminal-Postions-Insulated-Barrier/dp/B010UDG6NG