Reddit reviews ARCTIC Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 1.0 mm - Thermal Compound for Coolers, Efficient Thermal Conductivity, Gap Filler, Non-Stick, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply - Blue
We found 10 Reddit comments about ARCTIC Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 1.0 mm - Thermal Compound for Coolers, Efficient Thermal Conductivity, Gap Filler, Non-Stick, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply - Blue. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
EFFICIENT THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY: The Thermal Pad based on silicone and a special filler offers a conductivity of 6.0 W/mK, outperforming generic padsFILLING THE GAPS: Due to its low hardness and compressibility it works as the perfect gap filler, bridging uneven surface & gaps without any problemsSAFE HANDLING: Does not contain metallic particles, is electrically isolating & not capacitive. Contact with electrical traces does not cause damageEASY TO APPLY: Installing the Thermal Pad is child's play and perfect for beginners, they are non-stick and can be easily removed and repositioned. Install the Pad yourself at home in a matter of minutesOTHER INFORMATION: Size: 145 x 145 x 1.0 mm, Thermal Conductivity: 6.0 W/mK, Hardness: 25 Shore 00, Continuous Use Temperature: -40~200 ℃, Specific Gravity: 3.2 g/cm³
The good news, creating my own substrate out of thermal pads and the use of a graphite pad was EXTREMELY effective, but also quite risky in the channels of the DIE and HBM. You can see closely that the silicon has chipped off after a couple of times I dug out my DIY substrate with metal tweezers. This was my resolution for about a week and you can see my largest problem here is board warp from my custom mount. I was working to fix this warping so my mounting pressure was even and this is when I was not paying attention as mis-assembled the water block mount.
Images: https://imgur.com/a/WnoHkOZ
Final Products:
YMMV, I would recommend a 1.5mm pad for the surround. The channel needs to be vertically installed and 1.0mm was good for me but installation must be meticulous. Several cuts for the channels should be made to optimize single installation, correct height with no overlap and appropriate top-to-bottom coverage. Do not use a metal pick/tweezers, cut a Q-Tip at an angle to create a channel clearing device https://i.imgur.com/uvmWLrW.jpg. Protect your chip giblits with the Polyimide tape or nail polish, preferred over cutting the thermal pad, the extra pad is desired for mounting variability.
So I got the bestbuy MSI GS65 8SE when they had the sale, these are a few things I'll be doing.
​
SSD upgrade:
I've been looking at several ssd NVME. I have the 512gb kingston SN520. The specs online say its a PCI 3.0 x2 gen, the actually real world speeds are pretty good so I'm happy with it. But seeing as I need more space I'm planning on getting the intel 660p 2tb. I did so much research on the topic concerning speeds, pricing, and endurance and alternatives. I know its QLC etc. But what it comes down to for me is this.
I want lots of space for a good price while not needing it to be super quick as a boot drive. I looked at the speeds and as long as I dont go over 60% I'll still have a huge SLC cache of about 100gb. see the link https://img.purch.com/r/711x457/aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9XL1IvNzg5MTQ3L29yaWdpbmFsL1NjcmVlbnNob3RfMi5wbmc=
That means I'll be able to go over 1tb and still retain good speeds whereas if I would get a relatively quick TLC 1tb for about 150$, I wouldn't be able go beyond 750gb without seeing a hit to the speeds. Also, I would strongly advise not to get a double-sided NVME as you need space for the thermal pad which I think should be 1mm thick thermal pad. So for the price and the situation, it's going to be the best option for me. There is a 5 year warranty and a guarantee of 200tbw, that would mean after writing on it for 200tb I will see problems with the drive, that would amount to 109gb of writing every single day a day of writing if I want it to last up to 5 years. I had a good think about that and I'll never reach that daily amount especially not as a secondary drive. Also in real life test for games etc it was as fast as the 760p and evo 850 -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OffzVc7ZB-o
​
Ram upgrade:
I think I'll be going for the kingston hyperx 16gb, although I've always bought Corsair for the past 10 years, I'm hoping both my rams being Kingston will help even though I know it might not make a difference at the end of the day.
​
Thermal pad:
I've been trying to figure out which thermal pad to get for the ssd nvme and also for future replacement. I'm getting the 1mm, as it looks like that thickness eyeing it on this vid, https://youtu.be/rehA0elife4?t=674, good for a one sided nvme ssd. getting this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTXSM/
​
Thermal paste:
Most likely I'll be going with thermal grizzly kryonaut.
​
1 question I had for the people who have already repasted their CPU and GPU, in this video there is some paste on what I think is the vram south of the GPU -> https://youtu.be/698R4kdSjgk?t=724 I havent opened everything yet as Im waiting for the parts to come in. Do you think I'll need to paste this?
If CPU temps were idling in the 60's, then trying to cool the VRMs won't help you. You need to clean off the old thermal paste and apply something long lasting and reliable like Arctic MX-4 or Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano. Clean off the old paste with any lint free cloth or coffee liner, and 91%+ alcohol. Then replace with reliable MX-4 (very long lasting) or Gel Maker Nano. Kryonaut is hit and miss with its longevity and may dry out quickly if the heatsink fit and flatness isn't very firm and solid.
For VRM's, use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/
You still need to make sure you have something to attach the heatsink to the VRM's though. If it's a simple pin or screw it's easy.
​
​
​
If you have a nicely vented PC Case with a good flow of air, yes you can get the temps down a bit and still OC a bit further. I was able to achieve quite a bit more than that myself on a 7970 a while back.
[Here are the thermal pads] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00UYTTXSM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_e2Fryb6874WCX) If you don't have any installed on the VRMs already, just cut them down to size and place them where needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Pad-Ultra-1mm-120x20mm/dp/B004230RUO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UYTTXSM/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FwA4-XZyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=DFSHRWJFAYEW2ZYB0GRF
https://www.amazon.com/BCP-Adhesive-Thermal-Conductive-Heatsink/dp/B01MSL64XG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511236405&sr=1-4&keywords=adhesive+thermal+pad&dpID=312RWPXofdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Pad-145-1-0/dp/B00UYTTXSM/ref=pd_sim_147_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WNCK4JY3ZHZ25QY9YJV2
Is the bed warped? With the bed heated, check the distance of the nozzle on the 4 corners and the middle of the bed. My guess is that the build surface is warping when heating up. Mind did this. I fixed it with a piece of glass, 1mm thermal pad to hold the glass down, and purple aquanet hairspray. Haven't had adhesion issues in about a year.
Edit: This is the thermal pad I use. I cut it into 4 large square and put one on each corner of the glass. Stuck it straight on to the buildtak the printer came with.
>How much was the total cost for all those pads?
Because I knew I was in for a lot of trial and error, I bought one of the 145x145x1mm and one of the 145x145x1.5mm for a total of $33. But you'll end up using less than half of each so you can buy smaller sizes if you can find them.
It is get something like this https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM
I am using : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K4CKG1/
___
You are saying use pads like this: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM/ ?