Reddit Reddit reviews AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

We found 45 Reddit comments about AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included
Eliminating Buzzing Noise: Eliminate hiss, buzz, and other background interference caused by ground loop noise. Designed to improve sound quality on car stereo systems and home speaker systems when the audio source is physically connected by 3.5mm audio cableWorking Principle: Filters out noise instantly for clear, uninterrupted, uncompromised sound by eliminating the current noise in some car speakers / home stereo systemsPlug and Play: Nifty little gadget that just plugs in; no other setup neededWide Compatibility: Works with any audio device that has 3.5mm audio jacks, for your Car Audio System/Home Stereo, when grounding issues persistPACKAGE CONTENTS: AUKEY GI-L1 Ground Loop Isolator, 3.5mm Audio Cable, User Manual, 24-Month Product Replacement Warranty and Friendly Customer Service
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45 Reddit comments about AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included:

u/DoubleSpoiler · 25 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

When you plug in the Switch power cord, you're going to get buzzing because of a ground loop. You'll need one of these.

u/DarthSnoopyFish · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be warned. My Switch gave awful feedback when I went from headphones out to line in on my PC. I had to buy this to get rid of the feedback.

u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/speedrun

Thanks for doing this, it helps.

4c.) I don't believe this was ever brought up during our discussions, but I had mentioned on stream that I always have my laptop up now right next to me with the stream to check the quality and potentially type back to viewers during down moments in the runs. I specifically had mentioned during the PSIII run where this moment happened that I was going to use my left hand to ban the user on my laptop (easy with a mouse) while still performing the button actions with my right. Incredibly simple to do when the fight calls for pressing one button to initiate your battle actions, and when they're all the same (no d-pad movement required). It's pretty clear with the amount of time I took to do this that I was doing it while the fight was ongoing, and maneuvering the mouse with my left hand on laptop to ban while attacks were being performed (nothing but waiting during this time).

4d.) This also wasn't brought up during the discussion, but again this is a common issue I would face where my audio from my microphone would be a couple seconds earlier than the stream output w/ audio, or sometimes 2 seconds later. It happens pretty frequently and only started happening more frequently once I changed to the low latency mode in Twitch (not sure if any correlation between the two).

4e.) I don't feel that my explanation was illogical during this at all. When I stream via Nintendo Switch (for the Sega Ages Phantasy Star I run), I have my capture card set to output to my PC speakers. This allows me to have my Switch output audio through my PC speakers without any delay, and also allows me to plug in my headphones directly to my main control unit of my Logitech Z906 speakers and avoid having to use an extension cable for headphones to my Switch. Within Streamlabs, I typically only had my Nintendo Switch output audio as I was using a headphone cable directly to my PC gaming monitor (that I use for the Switch as well). When I reconfigured all of this to bypass the monitor and go straight into the Z906, I forgot that I now needed to output speaker audio to the stream instead of just the Switch audio capture. I mentioned during this that I needed a specific ground loop noise isolator in order to perform the monitor bypass which can be found here but I think that may have been too much information and given too much truncation to make sense during the course of discussion.

4f.) I agree this was strange, but I typically only did one run per day streamed given the little time I have to stream (as mentioned at the beginning of each run usually). I have three children, one of which is 2 months old - I would typically do a run starting at 9pm and if I couldn't finish, then I just stopped the stream. Waking up at 5am to a newborn means no sleep, so 1 run was generally my max.

4g.) I agree, it was insane luck. I've had plenty of streamed runs over the last few months with insane luck as well - the WR runs were typically when everything fell in line. I have no explanation behind this but VODs still exist, so I can't help but think it's strange that everything I had ever done over the last few months was just a splicing ruse.

4h.) This also wasn't brought up during the discussion as far as I can remember. I was more than fine with the individual in question looking into this, and my only potential defensive stance on this point at the time was that I was trying to explain the various ambush rate percentages being such an incredibly low sample size as the user was comparing 3 different runs, all with wildly different rates of encounters and ambushes. I had mentioned during this conversation that if there's a 5% variance or less than it would be considered statistically insignificant based on scientific findings, and was met with quite a bit of hostility in pointing this out.

Sorry for the lengthy reply, just wanted to put this out here as well.

u/sanels · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be aware that in a lot of situations you may hear a humming/buzzing noise caused by ground loop issue. You can fix this(as i have) by getting a ground isolator like this one:

u/Neobim · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.

u/SeriousZebra · 6 pointsr/4Runner

I had the same problem in my 06 sr5, I ordered a ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference. This is the one I used.

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/akran47 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You might get a buzzing noise (ground loop hum) but you can eliminate that with a ground loop noise isolater.

I run the 3.5mm through one of those and into my PC's line-in so I don't have to move plugs around or change headsets, and I haven't had any issues.

u/Dart06 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Important to note that if you DO do this method you might have some crackle from the Switch. That's because Nintendo is incompetent and doesn't use high quality parts for their headphone connector.

If you do have that crackle/static, you can get around it by using one of these.

u/redheadwes · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Piling on to agree. I play mostly docked through a monitor with no audio output, so I've always got headphones in while docked. Definitely got some buzzing/feedback, but solved it with this isolator and have had no problems since.

u/dapperkitty · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Depends on the type of headset you have.

For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.

That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures.

Hope this helps

u/RichestMangInBabylon · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.

It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.

u/iTzinmyblood · 2 pointsr/computer_help

Maybe a grounding issue? Every time I've had buzzing issues it was fixed by a Ground Loop Noise Isolator. They sell them on amazon for like 10$


EDIT: I have this one Ground Loop Noise Isolator

u/PowerSamurai · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The lack of proper social features and the fact that the switch is so liable to electrical noise when docked and using headphones.

To elaborate on the last point. When docked (this is an issue for ME, I don't know whether is a general issue or not) and with the charger plugged into a noisy socket (could potentially be grounding issues for example), and then using headpones through the switch's jackport, i will hear a lot of noise. If I change the socket I use to one that is not a part of my extension cord, I will have a much more quiet experience (the sound will not be entirely gone though, but can be depending on the socket). The problem for me is that I cannot use any other socket with my current setup so I will have to opt in to buy one of these:
They are said to remove all this noise by some other switch users that suffers from this issue too.

u/dragonx254 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You need a ground loop isolator, like this one

u/danbo1221 · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I purchased a similar cable harness online for my 2006 3 hatchback, and it works really well. However, old 3's and 6's produce a lot of EM feedback, so you're going to need a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm jacks like this on Amazon. . Otherwise, if you're charging a phone or accelerating hard, the noise will be beyond irritating! I got one with a long cable so the people in the back seat can connect their devices.

u/mrbill · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Keep in mind that you might have electrical/ignition-noise related whine. If so, this will take care of it, putting it inline with the aux jack:

I use the Anker bluetooth-to-aux adapter and had to get one of these to get rid of the whine in the background when I hit the gas, etc.

u/PotatoDynamics · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Pick you up some ground loop noise isolators for your 3.5mm connections. I had the same issue and these completely solved my issue.

u/Link1092 · 2 pointsr/Switch

You can also do it through your PC. That way you don't have to use the xbox controller. I have it set up so the HDMI is connected from my switch to the display, then I use this ground loop noise isolator and an aux cord to run the sound through my PC into my wireless headphones.

u/Thepopshop · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I went and bought a ground loop isolator for 15 on Amazon and it works perfectly fine. Here is what I bought

Edit: It gets a lot worse if you are using the 3.5mm as an input into a pc through line it. That's why I needed the ground loop isolator.

u/chickenmaster04 · 2 pointsr/MINI

You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.

u/kodack10 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Welcome to noisy grounds, hissing and spitting since 1969.

Buy an RCA or 1/4" TRS ground loop isolator, run it between your sound device and the input of the monitors. Problem solved.


They are about $15. It breaks the ground over the RCA connection which will instantly stop the noise from your computer and DAC. Switching USB ports, and using USB filters are not the best solution and might not even resolve it. Isolation is a common thing to do when running 2vRCA between any 2 pieces of equipment (or using xlr)

The ground the speakers amplifiers have, the ground on the audio cable connected to that amp, the ground of your audio device whether USB DAC or pc, all of these grounds are different, they carry different stray currents and noise, and since they are not a common ground, they act like an antenna rather than a noise blocker.

By isolating the ground over the speaker cables you break the antenna in half and remove the noise.

You've actually just ran into the real reason why XLR connections are preferred in pro-audio. Because the out of phase wiring, allows a signal wire summation that cancels out the noise. RCA and TR don't do that though. TRS (can) do that as it's 3 conductor just like XLR, but it would need to be 3 conductor TRS on both sides of the cable. I know the 305's are TRS, but what you're plugging into probably isn't unless it's a mixing deck.

u/HowSR · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Finally on PC...

So here is what i Use:
Ground Loop Isolator

u/sageredwood · 1 pointr/preppers

I have had very good luck with this.

So, if you are going to use headphones, like at all I would suggest getting this.

Handy for any headphone application. I carry one in my edc.

u/ZippZappZopp · 1 pointr/audio

Looks like the guy in this post was having the same problem, and he fixed it with one of these.

Last thing you could try is plugging the switch and PC into the same outlet/power bar.

If that doesn't work, and there's no 3.5mm output on your TV, that noise isolator would probably be the easiest solution.

u/jmickelonis · 1 pointr/steelseries

Are you using the line in on your PC? You need a ground loop isolator. It'll do this with any headset you try.

u/Maltosier · 1 pointr/letsplay

Yes. I've had this problem.

You may need to buy a specific device to solve this issue.

Here is more info:

I bought the cable it recommends and it solved the problem entirely. :)

u/ChaosandTerror · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

That's because it isn't grounded properly and you need an aux cable that specifically grounds the signal.

u/mdcio · 1 pointr/MINI

This happens to me too, but only when I’m plugged into aux and charging at the same time. You could try a ground loop isolator, which supposedly solves this problem but I haven’t confirmed myself.

u/ShadowBoogers · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Assuming the cable hasn't been damaged, plug it into the motherboard (not the case, those cables are poorly shielded) and use one of these:

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/Yolo_Swagginson · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I had a similar problem going from the line out of my Fiio E10k into a power amp. Put this in the 3.5mm run and it fixed it.

u/gladiator0607 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I ran a 3.5 mm cable from the headphone port of my Switch to the audio in on my motherboard with a ground loop noise isolator in between the two. You don't need the ground loop noise isolator if the Switch is in handheld mode but if it's docked, you'll get some wicked buzzing and potentially mess up your motherboard if you don't have the isolator. Works like a charm but I'm not sure how you'd accomplish that with the PS4.

u/rufus40444 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I actually think this is a common issue.
You need something like this:

EDIT: yeah, we posted the same product. lol

u/socalproxyplayers · 1 pointr/Dell

you need an audio filter. I run one of these with all my docks. it's because of a lack of EMF shielding or electromagnetic field shielding. see, when electricity runs through a circuit it inherently 'leaks' an EMF field. This field is then absorbed by other components (if they're unshielded) and those components absorb the field and this creates what's called 'noise' on the channel. this noise can manifest itself as hissing, cracking, or popping when heard by human ears.

most EMF noise is harmlessly absorbed and accounted for by components when doing day to day operations. but audio chips and ethernet cables are most impact by this. that's why ethernet cables are shielded. but cheap audio chips aren't unfortunately. getting a 'filter' will remove the 'noise' off of the audio 'line'. can't recommend them enough.

There's hundreds of these on Amazon but you could start here:

u/SgtBobIE · 1 pointr/steelseries

You might want to look at a ground loop isolator, I had to get one when doing the same as you. Without it, there was bad static, You plug the aux cable into it then into the aux in on the transmitter.


This is what I have used, I also use one to run sound From one PC to the Line-In on another PC.


u/TessellatedGuy · 1 pointr/SwitchHacks

I have one from [Aukey] (

Edit: apparently the 14.50 dollar isolator from Kript is better at handling bass according to the top review, but it's also more expensive.

u/illGATESmusic · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You need an AuKey ground loop hum remover. They are real cheap and will totally handle this problem.

Recent USB stuff causes this issue a LOT.

All my synths with USB connections cause it. I had to get one for each synth before it stopped.

It works tho!

This lil fella: AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator...