Reddit reviews BIQU PC4-M10 Male Straight Pneumatic PEFE Tube Push for E3D-V6 Fitting Connector Bowden Extruder 3D Printer (Pack of 10pcs)

I got really tired of those all plastic ones and picked up these off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are spring loaded too, so no need for clips or anything to keep the bowden nice and tight in there.

Thanks so much for the detailed reply!

Getting a hold of an aluminum carriage would fix my most major concern with the overall design. I've already found, collected and downloaded all the brackets, replacement motor mounts, belt tensioners, fan ducts, and redesigned x carriage. Once I get the chance to pull the trigger on it, I'd get to work with my MP Mini printing all of those while it's shipping.

You bring up a good point with the MOSFET. I've read a bunch about it with the Maker Select and Wanhou and Anet and whatnot, but I've read that (with the standard bed anyway) the Tevo is pretty good. But with the expanded bed presumably drawing a fair bit more power, a $10 MOSFET might still be a good idea.

And thanks for the insights on the other upgrades. You more or less confirmed what I was already thinking. The standard extruder looks like an all-metal version of what's on my MP Mini and that's doing me just fine. And I've gotten pretty good at manual leveling and have no problem with it so long as it's stable and isn't going to unlevel itself after every print.

One last question though: making the blind assumption that you're in the US, where did you order your Tevo from?

As for the bowden tube coming loose, I had that problem with the V6 clone on my Mini. Just buying a new PTFE tube with some new fittings did the trick. It seems like after a while, the fittings just lose their bite on the tube.

I will post those pictures soon. I am traveling out of town right now. These are the PTFE fittings I used.

Sorry, I have buckets of them so I didn't think to mention. Standard BSP PC4-M10, same as the Voron belted extruders (so you can just re-use those if you have them).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG

These are what I’m using on my Pro.

Did you replace the crappy OEM coupling that holds the Bowden tube flush to the nozzle on the hot end? The OEM coupling lets the tube slip which creates a gap where your filament can clog up. I think this is the replacement.

I agree with /u/DesignFlaw06. The MMU2S is not difficult to assemble or use. It does add a few possible problems but they're negligible in the long run. Single color prints still work fine, you just have to Load to Nozzle the desired color after each printer reset, before starting the first single color print - other than that it works just like before, and you can print your old single color gcode without problem. I would definitely print this M10 passthrough adapter and use that instead of the stock one. It does require 5x m10 adapters which you can get here for $7, but is significantly better than the press fit design of the original.

I haven't had any problems with my MMU2S since I swapped for the M10 adapter plate. I haven't tried using any dissolving supports yet but it's definitely on my list of things to try.

Edit: In my experience, if you forget to Load to Nozzle after a reset and before starting a print, on the first single color print the MK3S will run the mesh bed leveling and then prompt to do a Load to Nozzle anyway, but will do so right against the bed leaving a mess on the nozzle. Not a huge deal at all, it's just a tad annoying since it gets filament on the nozzle and can screw up your first layer. After first turning on the printer, I prefer to move the extruder up maybe 100mm off the bed, then do a Load to Nozzle, pull the filament trail left from the "swap", then start my print. This is the same as if you had manually swapped filament without the MMU2S. I am using a slightly older MMU2S firmware so it's possible they've changed this behaviour in the newest firmwares. I only have to do this when turning the printer off and on or doing a reset -- otherwise I can just keep printing and printing as long as I want without doing a Load to Nozzle

I probably bought them from AliExpress since they're cheaper there but you can easily find them on amazon if you want them sooner than later, ebay, or pretty much anywhere that sells printer parts.. easy way is to search 'e3d v6 push fitting' or 'e3d v6 Bowden fitting'.. just remember you'll need to have m3 bolts that are a little longer and you need to print the part they screw into that's in the voron1.5 extras folder IIRC

Ahh cool. Those were the fittings I got for my V1. You're right that the hot end is different.

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG

These ones say they'll work on a v6 clone. Check around though for sure.