Reddit reviews Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK)

Yep, get a silicone sock.

I'm assuming that you are not using a silicone sock. If you are not, stop trying to print in PETG until you install one. It's just not worth the headache until you have the right setup.

Get this version of the sock, not this version. The sock prevents the material from blobbing around the nozzle. Blobs around the nozzle inevitably cause problems. The material hardens and then chars, and then is likely to collide with layers below. Or the blob will peel up one of the first layers, so that your print is ruined before it even starts.

Using the sock also helps stabilize the hotend temperature when using the fan, and so may solve the problem you are having using the default fan speed. You should do a PID tuning of the extruder heater after installing a silicone sock.

There's a couple of tricks I use to get a PETG print started: For the skirt (not brim), I use Slicer to change the skirt in three ways: First, I make the skirt only 1 layer high. Second, I make the skirt 3 or 4 perimeters wide. Finally, I keep the skirt at least 20 mm away from the print itself. Making the skirt wider on the first layer gets the nozzle into a steady-state where it tends not to blob as much. I make the skirt only 1 layer high because if there is a blob on the first layer, it can catch on the nozzle when the second layer is printing and get pulled up, ruining the print. Finally, I print it far away from the print itself because if the skirts lifts or strings, there's still a chance that the print itself will be OK. This has improved my success rate with PETG a lot, to the point where I almost never have a failed print.

There's one more thing you can do if you print with PETG a lot. I stole this from another Redditor and don't remember who. It's a change to the Slicer gcode that keeps the hot end at 160 C until after the bed leveling, and then heats up the nozzle just prior to the purge. That greatly reduces blobbing as well. But for it to work well you should still use a sock.

Here's the start gcode I use with PrusaSlicer:

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M109 S160 ; Set extruder temp before bed level
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 E8 ; Purge Bubble

• Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
  
  
• And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
  https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
  
  
• Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
  
  
• As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.

Sure. I heard of them through a redditor as well. This should be the ones I buy, maybe a different posting. I’m only on my second cause of a blob at that(still cheaper than the replacement hotend, but it comes with 3 sleeves so, it’s cheaper with the sleeve.) you might find them as socks is what might be the confusion https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

Buy some extruder socks to avoid this problem next time.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HkIRBbMK27K4Q

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

1. heater puts out X jules per second of heat
   
   The problem is that when pushing a lot of plastic it drains 2 X jules per second of heat. So even going at full force the heater can't keep up and the hot end will start to cool.
   
   So if say you're filament cant work below 180 setting the hot end at 230 instead of say 190 guves it more room to drop more in temp b4 it gets to cold to function
   
   
   
   
2. thermal sock. This thing https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S
   
   when you're heater is trying desperately to keep the hot end above 180. These things help stop half the heat being made from being lost to the air. More of it goes into the filament. Which means less chance of hitting that dreaded 180
   
   
3. jerk control stops the printer from when it's 150mm/s in one direction to instantly going 150MM/s in the other. It does this by a fraction of a second before the turn kicking it down in speed the making the turn and kicking it back up.
   
   Acceleration control handles the same thing but with regards to speed changes instead of direction changes
   
   Without some control at these speeds you will find odd artifacts like what you've described(curling and all) and eventually will likely damage your x or y axis belt

Print is looking good, but you should pick up some socks for your hot end.

Kapton tape works for ABS @110c, PLA@50-60c, and PETG at 80c. Cooling the bed releases the part mostly.

Edit: Hardest part of Kapton is getting it on to the glass smoothly. Use the Windex and credit card method. I'm sure there are videos out there. Everyone used to use Kapton. Not sure why others have forgotten it.

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3BvjDb847519E