Reddit reviews Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity

Yeah, that's probably not strong enough. You should get something like this or similar, that will work better.

In the end it's always better to cut a bit too far away from the model and clean it up with a hobby knife than to take a chunk out of the model.

I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

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Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

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If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

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Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

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Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

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For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

• Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.
  
  
• Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).
  
  
• eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)

These don't last long, but they're a good place to start:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=4518303533042278392&pd_rd_wg=6aIN8&pf_rd_r=5HF6WFQ78NM75PB5NGE8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00FZPDG1K&pd_rd_w=S2YPv&pf_rd_i=plastic+nipper&pd_rd_r=ace6db1f-dd46-4fe9-bfdd-436df803a228&ie=UTF8&qid=1527225937&sr=1

These are a bit more expensive, have some good reviews, and is avalible with prime shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/TDOK-TD-170-Cutter-Internal-Cutting/dp/B06WP9NX98/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1527226020&sr=8-22&keywords=plastic+nipper

They're not made for plastics, but they should give good results.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV

I hope these save you a ton of time in the future.


They don't leave any nub at all when you clip off a ziptie. You could run the nub over the back of your hand, and you can't even feel it.

If you don't need to worry about tension, a pair of flush cuts does the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524254301&sr=8-3&keywords=flush+cut+pliers

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

Get this. It will make the cutting a breeze.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV

I use pliers I got at Lowe's in a mini pliers set. And used tool magic until I got used to how much pressure I needed to use for wire. I would also suggest a set of flush cutter pliers. They'll make finishing so much nicer.

my couple of cents:

LEGIBLY LABEL EVERY PULL (on both ends)

Now for the less important tips:
>power tools are great until the cord doesn't reach or the battery needs a recharge; invest in handtools first
>Since you're starting a new install in non-resi location: terminate using T-568B, unless other equipment is already using 568A
>Use a patch panel that takes keystone connectors
>home run everything back to a telecom rack that can be locked
>Observe bend radii and conduit/opening fill limits to avoid damage to the cable during the pull
>If installing on the shop floor/area: protect the cable pulls with conduit (sch 80 PVC or EMT, IMC or RMC if code calls for it) until the pull is at least 8ft off the floor
>use bushings and other fittings to prevent cable from chafing/rubbing on sharp/rough edges of conduit (if used)
>Pull 2 runs when you think you need 1 and pull 3 when you think you need 2
>Pull cat 6 instead of cat 5e if possible (the cost difference is minimal in most situations)
>Don't waste time/energy/hassle trying to make your own patch cables to "save money" (only crimp RJ45s to learn how, if you have to make the termination fit in a confined space, or to execute a repair)
>leave as much of the native twist undisturbed as practical during termination
>depending on zoning and other factors (how the building is built) you may need to use cable with certain ratings (CMX/CMR/CMP)
>1000ft of cable goes quickly in a commercial shop
>if you have HazLoc/ATEX rated equipment or spaces in the shop, have a licensed company do this; there are a lot of special requirements that need to be followed or your shop could be a future post on /r/catastrophicfailure
>assume each desk/workstation needs at least 2 drops; one for data and one for VoIP/POTS
>using wi-fi (without a backup or alterante means) on for business-critical applications gets costly quickly. Example: in place I worked, the cost of 1 hour downtime in the shipping department was the same as having 2 guys wire the whole warehouse and shipping area with cat 6 (labor, materials, and scissor lift rental).
>fire caulk and fire rated foam are handy
>you may need to pack cable pass throughs with steel or copper wool to prevent rodents from having a highway through the whole shop
>put drops in to support all major machinery work cells (they may not be internet connected today, but give that ~24 months)
>the following tools are super handy for this type of work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEUPMQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV
https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-ES-1964-Carbon-Electrician-Scissor/dp/B0069629IK (or similar)

These are pretty good for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Maximum-Capacity/dp/B076M3ZHBV

I use an Ideal UTP stripper and have for years. These do the job quite well. For cutting the plastic separator get a flush cutter. Fold your wire pairs back to avoid cutting/nicking them.

+1 for at least getting a good 2.5 mm ball hex. I love Wiha tools, but for my ball hexes, I went a slightly cheaper and got Wera. Completely happy with those too.

+1 for flush cutters. I have many pairs of the Hakko CHP-170 Micro Cutters. They come in really handy on prints as well. They are under $5ea from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV/

I put my MK3 on to a thick cutting mat to aid it moving it around the table when working on it.

Four bucks and change on Amazon, too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IKCGLM

Those are by far my favorite wick scissors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV

That's my favorite pair of wire cutters.

Are tools like these what you were talking about?

Scissor

Cutter

It comes pretty good. I do really like side snips - https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155543&sr=1-3&keywords=side+cutters

And if you are shopping I would swap the part fan and thermistor:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermistor-Reprap-3D-Printer-Extruder/dp/B01DCFJBCC/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155599&sr=1-2&keywords=m3+thermistor&dpID=51tiPDgI0ZL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14112600ux0241-Brushless-Sleeve-Bearing-Cooling/dp/B016XMK6SE/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155631&sr=1-4&keywords=24v+blower+fan&dpID=31iOokGKhLL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The thermistor I would swap right away. Lastly don't buy monoprice filament. Look at AIO Robotics, Esun, Hatchbox, AMZ3D, etc.