Reddit reviews iArkPower 3 Port HDMI Switch with Optical Toslink SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, 3x1 HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, Supports 4Kx2K@30Hz, Full 3D, 1080P, ARC

If you want to go the route of buying a playbar/base, you can just running all of your devices in to an hdmi switch and then one hdmi to the projector itself.

As others have helped me with my set up, you can buy hdmi switches that have an audio extractor built in to them. In this case, you don't even need to run the optical cable to the projector, rather, keep everything down below and just have the one hdmi (out) from the switch to your projector.

Here is what I use: Hdmi switch with extractor.

You need an HDMI switch with an audio extractor. I've successfully used this switch before: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7BZ1XC

I can output either as Optical, Emulate ARC return or Analog Audio.

Be that as it may, with the push to 4K older HDMI switching receivers are quite cheap on the used market. It might not be that much more just to get a used Denon that's about 3-4 years old.

I used an hdmi audio extractor to do what you're asking for a while. It worked great. You can even get an hdmi switch with audio extraction if you have more than one console.

Switch/consoles to the hdmi switch/extractor inputs, output to monitor, audio output to speakers.

I have a similar setup and, as a first-time buyer, it took me quite a while to make sense of how everything was supposed to connect together. I didn't get much help from the posts I made at the time, but here's my setup:

• Epson Home Cinema 3700
  
• 3x1 V1.4 HDMI Switch with TOSLINK Optical SPDIF
  
• MAXIMM Ultra Flat HDMI High Speed Cable
  
• Polk Magnifi Mini
  
  Your thoughts on Question 2 are correct as far as hookups, but the key (at least with the Magnifi Mini setup) is that you use the Optical Output from the splitter to the soundbar.
  
  So, for you, PS4/Apple TV/DirecTV --> Splitter --> HDMI Out to Projector, Optical Out to Soundbar.
  
  Also, I have a really bright room and a beige spackled wall. Not sure what your room situation is like, but I don't use a screen and it looks great, so if you're looking to save a few bucks, you might try the setup without the screen first and see if you can get by.

By "TV based," I assume you want to listen to HDMI sources rather than USB. There are a couple of cheap/simple solutions to this, but a receiver w/pre-outs would benefit your existing setup in several ways.

First, the cheap solutions:

1. Audio out from your TV. If your TV has analog outs, connect your powered speakers directly. If optical out, use your existing DAC if possible.
   
   
2. HDMI switcher with audio output. Here's one for $40. This is similar to #1 above but in an external box. HDMI auto-switching is a nice feature. However, because of HDMI EDID, you'll be limited to only those audio formats which the TV can handle (typically 48khz stereo PCM and Dolby Digital). There's a way to allow high-res formats but it'd add $80 and a second box.
   
   Now, a receiver with pre-outs would optimally integrate your Paradigms and sub. You'll have one, master volume control for all speakers (b/c each Paradigm speaker and the sub all have individual volume knobs. Right now you're prob adjusting volume on your computer or DAC/HP amp). You'll also gain centralized crossover control, time-delay adjustments, level-matching between sources, more inputs and the possibility to integrate your existing computer audio setup alongside. Unfortunately, as you've found, pre-outs aren't generally found on receivers below $300. Good luck.
   

I know one person using this right now and it works for them.

I have spent an illogical amount of time watching these audio lag tests and have not once thought to put it in slow-motion! That is a brilliant idea, and I will be doing that as soon as I get home today. Glad to know that the HDMI splitter / audio extractor helped. Do mind sharing which one you have? I'm eying this one, but am indecisive.

The one I purchased does support DTS. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You can use a HDMI Switch/splitter like this one.

I'll try that when I get home. It's worth a shot.

I'm also eyeing https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/

It looks like that would solve the problem and give me optical out that I need, but I'm not sure.

Hello again!

With this device would I be able to connect both my PS3 and PS4 to this via HDMI, and extract audio from both of them with a single optical audio and extract video from both of them with a single HDMI cable? (Because later I realized I only have one HDMI on my monitor.)

Is anyone using their switch with a DAC? I'm trying to get my PC set up with some new speakers, which will be powered through a DAC/AMP combo. Currently I have some cheap Logitech speakers, which are also connected to my Switch through my monitor (Switch -> HDMI -> Monitor -> 3.5mm -> Speakers).

Unfortunately this method won't work with my new audio setup, so I need to connect my Switch to my DAC somehow. I've tried a direct USB connection through the dock, but the audio still goes over HDMI to my monitor, instead of to the DAC. I've heard that the Switch is supposed to work with DACs, so I'm a little confused here. How do I make the audio go to the DAC instead of to the monitor?

Do I need an HDMI splitter like this? In that case I would have (Switch -> HDMI -> Splitter), and then (Splitter -> HDMI -> Monitor) and (Splitter -> Optical -> DAC -> AMP -> Speakers). Would that work? Or is there a way to connect the Switch directly to the DAC while preventing the audio from going over HDMI to the monitor?

My DAC is a Schiit Modi 3, BTW.

Replace your HDMI switch with one that has audio extraction

like this

Yup, or you can use something like this.

I'm planning on doing a similar thing with my PC, xbone, and switch. I was looking at this and paring it with this. I have no idea how well this will work tho

You can keep the current capture card and just duplicate your display using windows settings or nvidia control panel. Then use an hdmi splitter with an analog output to snag game sound for headphones.


Example of hdmi splitter: 3x1 V1.4 HDMI Switch with TOSLINK Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, 3 Port HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, Supports ARC, 4kx2k@30hz, Full 3D, 1080P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Ht4Ab8DY0WQG

My wife and I currently live in a small apartment, so, admittedly, we sit WAY to close to the screen given how big I have it set (it's about 85in and we sit maybe seven feet back, which is a bit too close). The good thing about a projector, by the way, is that the screen size is variable. We've taken it places before and blown it up to its max height (130 inches, I think?), and I've taken it places and set it MUCH smaller as well.

Speakers aren't hard to set up. There are really two options for setting them up. The first is to go into your device (Playstation, BR player, whatever) and tell it to output the audio through a cable other than the HDMI output (which is what they do by default), you'll then have two cables running out of your speaker: 1. HDMI going to the projector, and 2. one of the various sorts of audio cables going out to the speakers. This can get messy if you have multiple devices, however, as you'll need an audio switcher, and you may run out of HDMI ports on the back of the projector.

Your second option is to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484149764&sr=1-10&keywords=hdmi+switch

With this you plug in each of your devices via HDMI. You then run one HDMI cable to the projector and one sound cable to the speakers. The box splits the HDMI single for you and it acts as a switch between your devices. I personally use this box and love it (I run a firestick, PS3, and a region free blu-ray player into my projector and speakers).

And feel free to keep asking questions, please. =)