Reddit reviews Ospho 605 Metal Treatment
We found 6 Reddit comments about Ospho 605 Metal Treatment. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
A rust-inhibiting coating is not a paintYou do not have to remove light rustMerely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush
Hey I posted this on /r/ak47 but I just wanted to double check here - did I screw up my heat treating? I heated to 1600F->quenched->750F->aircooled. 2 out of 3 responses seem to be saying I did it right, but I could have sworn I read it was 1600F->aircool->750F->quench on Calguns. . .
And if I messed it up: what should my next steps be? Leave it be? Kasenit? Redo?
Also, if I get one of those home parkerization kits do I have to media blast or can I get away with sandpaper/dremel for prep? Here's what I'm looking at using: http://www.amazon.com/OSPHOQ-OSPHO-METAL-TREATMENT-QUART/dp/B000C02CDG
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
after you needle gun use Ospho. This stuff converts the rust on cleaned surfaces before you paint.
Works wonders on ships.
You don't need to do anything. Most tanks are untreated steel, because frankly, most things don't hold up over time and cause much bigger problems over time.
IF, I had a new, bare steel tank I would do one of the following.
Phosphate conversion coating is safe and protects against rust.
The only other product I would consider is Red Kote. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X0JOSM/ref=asc_df_B009X0JOSM5480476/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B009X0JOSM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=168489986144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4807055937970750055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015713&hvtargid=pla-307199442621
If it is truly bare steel, I would at least do the Ospho. It is almost impossible to avoid ethanol fuel these days, so some rust prevention is in order.
The Caswell tank epoxy is a good product too, but I wouldn't use it on a new tank.
https://www.amazon.com/THE-SKYBRYTE-COMPANY-Ospho-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
Ospho. Follow the directions.
Duplicolor self etching primer and duplicator paint is better than the rustoleum.
On a side note, if you ever have a tool that lives in an rust-prone environment try using a rust converter. It's basically an acid that will change stop oxidation (rust) and turn it black, but allow you to paint without rust bubbling up. I know that's not useful information for a saw but it's something I wish I'd known about earlier so I'm bringing it up.
Also I saw your comment below, it's really tough to polish by hand, but if you have a drill you can get an attachment.