Best care corrosion & rust inhibitors according to redditors
We found 105 Reddit comments discussing the best care corrosion & rust inhibitors. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 105 Reddit comments discussing the best care corrosion & rust inhibitors. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Three coats of clear coat.
There is a product called Rust Mort that lays down like a primer. If the rust is just starting in small spots you could try to sand the rust out, apply Rust Mort, and touch up over it. Just a thought, but rust is a total pain in the butt to stop from spreading. Here's a link to the product we've used in the past.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U
Try this stuff, it's meant for jewelry and dries completely clear. It is a bit pricey but it does last a long time with lots of handling. I've used it on a steel water bottle, so something I was touching and stuff constantly, and it's been a couple years with minimal peeling.
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537385553&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+remover
Evapo-Rust is really good too. I found an entire cart of Snap-On tools in a warehouse I moved into. Evapo-Rust did an unbelievable job.
I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.
With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.
Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)
And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)
And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h
Some important tools and materials are:
I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
Albums
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For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
> Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
> Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
> Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
> Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
> Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
> That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
> ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
> This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
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I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
Sure! It's ProtectaClear. I've coated about 50 pieces of jewelry and haven't used a 3rd of the bottle, so it will last forever. I even paint earring backs that normally irritate me! But pay attention to the directions, particularly the ones about opening it, because it ain't easy.
ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hey I posted this on /r/ak47 but I just wanted to double check here - did I screw up my heat treating? I heated to 1600F->quenched->750F->aircooled. 2 out of 3 responses seem to be saying I did it right, but I could have sworn I read it was 1600F->aircool->750F->quench on Calguns. . .
And if I messed it up: what should my next steps be? Leave it be? Kasenit? Redo?
Also, if I get one of those home parkerization kits do I have to media blast or can I get away with sandpaper/dremel for prep? Here's what I'm looking at using: http://www.amazon.com/OSPHOQ-OSPHO-METAL-TREATMENT-QUART/dp/B000C02CDG
I didn't believe this exists, yet it does.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/product-reviews/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
Sure.
Your friend sounds like the kind of guy who appreciates a Mosin Nagant...
You could get a can of
Devil snotcosmoline as a joke. That would qualify as both a "gun care" chemical and be a gag joke all in one. (this is the chemical that the soviets used to preserve their firearms before stockpiling them in crates. It is a bit of a hassle to remove, but does its protectant job very, very well)Cosmoline remover is also good.
You could also get the greatest movie ever made.
If you are the artsy type, you might also do well with a painting depicting "Rifle is fine".
I'm not convinced that any of them are much better than the others, especially with a light application like this. Hand Tool Rescue uses Evapo-Rust and it seems to work pretty well. They make a gel that would probably work well in this application since you can just brush it on the head and not have to soak the wood in the liquid form.
I used this.
You'll need this.
https://www.amazon.com/Cosmoline-Rust-Prevention-2-lb/dp/B00AA0OL64
It took me a long time to finally figure out what the advocates for fluid film were talking about, but finally coated my truck this Fall. Definitely worth the $44 for a gallon.
Well, I wasn't thinking just straight WD-40. I was thinking something more like this.
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
Protecta Clear is often used by jewelers to presever patina and protect the metal. That should work. Might take a few attempts to get an even coating, but it dries pretty fast.
Good input from everyone! Thanks guys!
This ski is my baby and been with me for a long time, I'd love to keep it that way.
I know most of this is common sense to you guys and some items I already do, but I'm stuck in my ways and don't want to forget.
Just want to make sure I continue treating her right :D
​
Consensus seems to be:
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- WD40 (inside hull/engine before riding & engine after if large water ingestion)
- Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (Outside, inside, trailer, car)
- CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor (impeller, moving parts, metal that contacts salt water)
- found this Amazon - CRC Corrosion Inhibitor
- Flush (engine water jackets using hose hook up)
Corroseal works well too.
Evapo-Rust is a surprisingly good product. I use it constantly to restore antique tools because it eats rust but won't touch the steel. I've tested that advertising claim on accident by forgetting and leaving stuff in it for weeks at a time. The only caveat I know of comes into play if you forget something that is only partially submerged. If anything happens to cause your exposed steel to rust then the concoction will eat the rust at the water tension line; if it continues rusting it continues to be eaten. I etched a line on a scrape that I left partially exposed in a non-climate-controlled shop with very high humidity; the condensation over a couple days kept up a continuous rust feed. Basically, if it's not fully submerged, just don't forget and leave your blade in for days at a time and I doubt you'll ever see an issue.
A PVC pipe at the right diameter and length, sealed on one end and you could drop your feder blade in and walk away. Come back after a couple of hours and wipe it clean. Deburr if necessary, oil/wax, and you should be done.
If for whatever reason you don't want to use oil or wax they also make a spray-on rust-inhibitor that so far has worked fairly reliably for me.
I just saw u/insincere_platitudes posted on another thread about a liquid/clear substance made for exactly this issue! Purchased from Amazon - called ProtectaClear & I believe this is the link she used: https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B0186N6ZVK
u/insincere_platitudes I hope you don't mind me adding this here! Thank you so much for the fantastic info!😊
Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.
They literally just sprayed bed liner up there, so grab a can of bed liner and go to town.
https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Aerosol-Bedliner-Protective-Coating/dp/B07DGVMWS9/ref=asc_df_B07DGVMWS9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241984506923&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5300359775557941366&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028279&hvtargid=pla-570035565731&psc=1
Also definitely paint the crap out of the floorboards and the battery area under the rear seat with this stuff...it’s a lifesaver too: https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45004-Gloss-black-Preventive/dp/B00H2VVL0S
I highly recommend you Use this : Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_he9kDbMKZXCMV
It will get to even the deep pitted rust. In my experience this works much better than vinegar. I usually don't even use a wire brush after plates sit in evaporust for an hour or so. Based on how much you have you will probably need 2-3 gallons.
you can take it apart and soak parts in evapo rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
super easy. after you do that you'll want to clean the surfaces and apply some metal polish to prevent rust from coming back.
I have found applying this product to my irritating earrings to be really effective! I reapply every 10th wear or so. Takes less than 10 seconds to do both posts and then let them dry. Cheap and effective method thus far!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCU12PG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Food Grade 85% .. insanely strong when not diluted.. you can dilute 5 to 1 water to acid or 10:1 water to acid easily. I have put rusty bolts in the undiluted and they come out like they were sandblasted in about an hour.. the threads all cleaned out like new.
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX
or you can buy a quart of rustmort which i always use to use as an autobody tech .. its great .. I would say its probably a 10:1 dilution
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U/
this is why I will never drink cola drinks again
https://jillcataldo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/cokeingredients.jpg
You need this to start with:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R74I5UY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1DPLDbVCB7VHF
I cleaned up and repainted my YBR's exhaust a few months ago.
I took the entire exhaust off, and then used a drill with a wire brush attachment to take off as much surface rust as possible.
I then left it for a day in a rust remover solution to get rid of the finer aspects and leave me with a smoother surface.
Crack out some sandpaper, smooth the surface of the exhaust down to try and get an even finish.
Then use some VHT Paint to cover it over again.
Rathe simple but very satisfying, makes a huge difference to the bike's aesthetics.
(http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ)
Stuff works great, used with a scotchbrite pad on a random orbit sander, made the saw look brand new.
after you needle gun use Ospho. This stuff converts the rust on cleaned surfaces before you paint.
Works wonders on ships.
I got a link for some cheaper cosmoline if you're interested.
I found it after I purchased some of this stuff which is also really good-- more like fluid film, though.
I'll use the cosmoline next time and compare the two.
This product is a soak. I purchased a gallon jug for $21 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0TLQ66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498429496&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evapo+rust&dpPl=1&dpID=51QNIj5clvL&ref=plSrch) I varied the time of the soak by the amount of rust on the tool. I checked on them periodically and used a brass wire brush on them before, during, and after the soak. The threads run effortlessly.
Its not a permanent solution, especially if the jewelry is fondled often, as the oils from skin can wear it away, but I use this product called protectaclear on finished pieces and it works great. It gives the jewelry a nice luster and keeps the copper from turning peoples skin green. On rings i would say it lasts a good 3 months, and on necklaces.. significantly longer, again, if its not something you hold and rub. https://amzn.com/B0186N6ZVK
Beautiful piece BTW
Dowels and chopsticks with sandpaper wrapped around them, and a Dremel with a variety of stones. It's gonna be a labor of love.
Proluxe is good, but it's really just a deck stain. And the semitransparent is a water based acrylic... you're not gonna like the finish it gives you on that beautiful old hardwood. It'll look like plastic. I'd personally go with an Old Masters penetrating stain (you can go with a wiping stain if you wanna tone down the grain a little... wiping stain will give you a little more of the semitransparent look) followed by a spar finish (3 coats, applied with sponge brushes, light sand with 220 between coats - juuuuust kiss it with the sandpaper). It'll give the door a richer and longer lasting finish than a simple coat of deck stain, and the spar is UV protectant.
I'd use Evaporust or Metal Rescue on any of the ironwork that can be removed and allowed to soak (with both products, you strain the soak and pour it back into the jug - it's reusable several times). After the rust removal soak, clean with acetone and use a self-etching primer. For anything you can't remove and soak, use Rust Reformer after wire brushing instead of a simple primer for tough surfaces - it converts surface rust to magnetite to stabilize it. Then proceed with your black color coat. After the black, spray with a couple coats of satin clear. All the paints I linked are available at any auto parts store and Walmart, and I believe Home Depot carries Metal Rescue.
That's a gorgeous door. Take pictures and post a project gallery!
Edit: added that Proluxe semitransparent is water based.
same here, my 03 is my winter daily. I gave it a copious underbody spray with this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-nas1-Gallon/dp/B004NDDCKK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485021178&sr=8-4&keywords=fluid+film
in the fall, all around the wheel arches and the running boards and everywhere that wasnt the brakes, exhaust piping, or engine.
and it has some blizzak WS60s on it, which make it EXTREMELY stable on snow and ice but you can still just leave it in first and do donuts in parking lots or drift around corners.
Amazon
Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
It’s this guy here
I plan to use either a small synthetic paint brush or sponge. Have to do some experimenting first. From what I’ve read it’s hard to screw it up, but you should wait 24 hours after application for it to dry completely. I’ll let you know how it goes!
Hey there beautiful! 🥰
After reading about the hardware on your bag tarnishing, I’ve done a little research and there are some options of putting protection to the hardware so it won’t tarnish, although I don’t know how effective they are 🤷🏼♀️
I’ve found this on amazon:
ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear, Protective Coating for Polished Metals, Stainless Steel, Jewelry - Prevent Tarnish & Protect Skin from Allergies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VmP0CbBKB5YS5
I’m planning on purchasing it and trying it on, so I’ll let you know if it does make a difference.
Awesome review! 🥰
Just from lots of reading, use a wire brush or wheel to get rid of as much as you can, then use something like this:
VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tOk3Bb27VP13R
Thank you so much for your detailed review!! Tbh the Boy bag has never been on my radar due to the dimension width but after seeing your pictures, I realized there are more ways to wear it than just the shoulder. It looks amazing on you! I'm really loving the matte gold hardware with black and chevron <3 Now I want a GF Boy bag; my wallet does not thank you hahaha.
There's a hardware coating on Amazon called protectaclear I've seen mentioned on this sub you may want to try out (if it's not too late).
First, you could scrape that rust off and wire brush it clean. Then coat it with something like this
That will slow the rusting down a bit.
To run the fan constantly throughout the summer won't benefit you the way you think it will. A ceiling fan or a box fan will give you better results without costing as much money and without shortening the life of your heating system.
If you want to run the fan periodically throughout the summer, I wouldn't jump the terminals, I would upgrade your thermostat to a programmable one and run a new wire to your board. The thermostat I have now will run the fan for 4 minutes every hour the system isn't on. I do this to help keep the air in my house clean since I have a hepa filter.
Plus the fact that you can see some significant savings with a programmable thermostat. I ended up getting a WIFI connected one with an app so I can turn the system on/off from anyplace with my phone. So if we are out over night I can have the system off and turn it off as we are heading back to the house.
How interested would you be in fixing this yourself? With a few tools and a little elbow grease you could stop the progression of the rust relatively cheaply. If the metal is not too far gone I'd say it could be "fixed" for under $100. By fixed I am referring to stopping the rust from getting worse. So long as the rusted area is not structural, and by your description it is not, as long as there are no holes you are fine to just stop the rust from getting worse. I'd say if you've got access to a few tools, remove the rust and ask a shop to look and see if it should be good to use a rust preventative paint/coating.
As far as repairing the metal itself, the only real fix is to cut it out and weld new metal back on. Which is considerably more expensive, though if you do some of it yourself you could save quite a bit of the cost.
If you just wanted to stop the progression of the rust, use an angle grinder with one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4910-8-Inch-11-Knotted-020-Inch/dp/B00004RHAL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469088859&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wire+cup+brush) to remove all the rust and bring it to bare metal. Then get some [por 15] (https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45004-Gloss-black-Preventive/dp/B00H2VVL0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469088930&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=por+15) and coat the area well. This should be sufficient to stop the rust from spreading. If you went this route I would advise doing dome research and just using this over any accessible rust prone areas you can find, though that would just be extra insurance.
You don't need to do anything. Most tanks are untreated steel, because frankly, most things don't hold up over time and cause much bigger problems over time.
IF, I had a new, bare steel tank I would do one of the following.
Phosphate conversion coating is safe and protects against rust.
The only other product I would consider is Red Kote. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X0JOSM/ref=asc_df_B009X0JOSM5480476/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B009X0JOSM&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=168489986144&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4807055937970750055&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9015713&amp;hvtargid=pla-307199442621
If it is truly bare steel, I would at least do the Ospho. It is almost impossible to avoid ethanol fuel these days, so some rust prevention is in order.
The Caswell tank epoxy is a good product too, but I wouldn't use it on a new tank.
Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.
FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.
get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).
De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust
Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!
It works on any metal, period. It's available as a brush-on liquid or an aerosol. Here's the Amazon link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186N6ZVK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Could try this;
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO
What the other side said, I would suggest to get a protective coating for them like you might for costume jewelery that will oxidize on your skin.
Something like this or just clear coat nail polish
https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B01DCU12PG?th=1
The first thing to use is Frame Protector for the inside of the frame. This can be messy so do this first. Next a brass wire brush on an electric drill or better yet on Dremel-type tool. Third thing is VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.. This stuff is amazing. It will turn your rust to a mineral that can be sanded off. Lastly, prep for paint. You can get in all the nooks and crannies with these and these. Do not try to paint it yourself. You suck at it. Take it to a motorcycle painter and if you ask for clear he will just hang it next to a motorcycle tank or fender and do them both at the same time. Should cost next to nothing if your prep is good.
Edit: sp
I don't know about the cost of repair to original condition but I do know to stop the rust, but it won't look pretty.
&#x200B;
you need to remove the rust you can either scrub it off with an abrasive(wire brush, sandpaper) or you can use a rust dissolver like rustoleum(Probable will ruin paint so be careful). once all the rust is off you need to clean the area with a non lint forming cloth and apply some kind of barrier so the bare metal does not get oxygen, any kind of outdoors paint works or you can try to find the matching color
Omg so I partly blame and partly thank your well timed post for my leather care for reps haul just then. As I said, my SO is states side and I’m soo jealous of how much he has available and always make him hoard since we see each other every few months. This is what he just said about it - shoe cleaner/leather wash lol wtf.
Anyway, I stocked up on the Cadillac leather care. It was cheaper than Apple and had more and better reviews. Many of the users said they used for their Chanel handbags and it worked well, even on lighter colours. That sold me.
Off tangent to your post but I also made him pick up this metal coating - my friend swears by it. It keeps all her hardware and jewellery polished and sparkling. Don’t you look at some of your hardware/fashion jewellery after a bit abandonment and think “wtf happened to you??” Anyway, hopefully this will save me from all the $$ wasted throwing those out!
I know this isn’t going to help you being from Canada but when there’s a will there’s a way!
When I got my 00 it was clogging the heater core with rust on a regular basis. It would turn green antifreeze orange in a couple weeks of driving. Evaporust makes a coolant flush to remove rust that I used 2x. I had the head off 9 months later and I was amazed at the results. Looked brand new!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R74I5UY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506470016&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evaporust
On a side note, if you ever have a tool that lives in an rust-prone environment try using a rust converter. It's basically an acid that will change stop oxidation (rust) and turn it black, but allow you to paint without rust bubbling up. I know that's not useful information for a saw but it's something I wish I'd known about earlier so I'm bringing it up.
Also I saw your comment below, it's really tough to polish by hand, but if you have a drill you can get an attachment.
Maybe try using a rust converter on it. Sand off most of the rust and use some steel wool to get a reasonable surface. Then spray on a bit of rust converter. It'll turn any remaining rust into a hard, black material that will prevent any future rust from forming. I think it also acts as a clear coat so you may wish to do a bit of sanding afterwards too.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478891966&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rust+converter+vht
https://www.amazon.com/THE-SKYBRYTE-COMPANY-Ospho-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
Ospho. Follow the directions.
Duplicolor self etching primer and duplicator paint is better than the rustoleum.
I used http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top after I had a flash rust on the entire top if my saw when I had to drop it in storage while waiting to close on my house. It worked great for me.
I used the 2k aerosol raptor liner can on my hood. It looks good enough to me! I should have taken the hood off before spraying it... I stood on my tire and sprayed it straight down instead, but I'm still pleased with it overall. I had some bubbles on the hood when the first can started running out, and I used canned air duster to pop them before it dried.
http://imgur.com/a/rDDHxpu
Aerosol can
It took me two cans for the part of the hood I did
Naval jelly all the way, especially if you're lazy and don't like scrubbing. The stuff's amazing. Although for really heavy rust you should knock off the loose stuff first or you'll just be wasting the stuff.
For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.
If you are lazy and don't want to harm or scuff the surrounding paint, Hammerite make this gel and it's pretty tame. I've never had it react with paint but always best to check first.
Then put a layer of wax or acf50 over it because it'll flash rust if you don't. Needs a couple of applications and a soft bristle brush to do its magic though.
No, no, no. You do not need to sand the heck out of it like that. What a mess. All you need to do is wipe or brush on some naval jelly and wait literally 10 minutes (no longer) then wipe off. It's the best way to remove rust while maintaining as much metal as possible. Loctite makes some that you can pick up at Home Depot but I prefer Permatex which you can get on Amazon (if not locally in your area).
They'll be back. I ordered new straps, and have the toe catches sitting in a Metal Rescue bath. Once the straps are in they're back on the bike.
There are better products out there for rust prevention.
CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor
In those dry areas I use CRC Corrosion Inhibitor.
For the others that I can't get a solid layer of undercoat, I use any spray lubricant to displace moisture and protect bare metal (i.e. door drain holes).
Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:
Rust removal: EvapO-Rust
Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.
Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes
These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.
Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel
*For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.
Can I ask you why it would make it worse? I'm considering using something like Evapo-Rust: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66