Reddit Reddit reviews Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857

We found 42 Reddit comments about Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sta-Wet Palette  Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857
The Sta-Wet Handy Palette is a unique system for water-based paintUnique sponge and palette paper combine to keep paint moistEven with the lid closed paint will stay workable for days or even weeksIdeal size for small projects or in the classroomMeasures 8. 5 x 7 x1 inches
Check price on Amazon

42 Reddit comments about Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857:

u/Swayz3Train · 318 pointsr/AccidentalRenaissance

You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?

Get him one of these.

His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.


Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying you get the point lol.


PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.

Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!

Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.

Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat

u/Greektlake · 8 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

I would not reccomend Citadel paints (from GW) for a first time painter. Citadel paints run on the expensive side, the bottle they come in sucks and makes it hard to water down when needed. The brushes from GW are pretty good though and the washes as great.

For paints I like Vellejo. They have a huge selection of colors, can be found in almost every hobby store and use dropper bottles which is the best way to store and use acrylic paints IMO.

If you plan to do more painting then this small project this wet pallet is one of the best investments you can make:

Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857

u/AugustDream · 7 pointsr/minipainting

As to wet pallettes, you can make your own with some house hold stuff or can get one like this.

u/MrGulio · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Two things I'd tell you to start with.

  1. Buy one of the citadel paint handles because they're relatively cheap and having a good grip helps a lot with finding good angles. You can always use a pill-bottle and poster tack as well.
  2. Get a wet palette or make your own. Don't waste money on the citadel palette pad.


    At the start, thinning your paint with water is more than fine but when you get further into it look into making your own thinning medium.
u/Serneum · 5 pointsr/zombicide

Reaper makes Learn to Paint kits. I've used them to reinforce some of what I've learned at local painting meetups and I've liked them. I ended up grabbing a large Army Painter paint set and then had a wet palette and a Winsor & Newton brush recommended to me from a Zombicide painting group. They also pointed me to a head-mounted light/magnifying glass and some brush soap.

u/Rokanos · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Dark angels cheap:

Caliban green Spray (GW) - $20
Biel-tan wash (GW) - $7.50
Warpstone glow layer (GW) - $4.25
Mephiston Red (GW) - $4.25
Leadbelcher (GW) - $4.25
Nuln Oil (GW) - $7.25

That's about your bare minimum.

If you want to do a step further (with plasma) grab Guilliman blue glaze, Celestra grey, and the layer paint white (can't remember name).

If you have a bunch of Robes in the army, grab zandri dust, and ushabti bone.

There is a paint conversion chart here: (if you aren't a fan of GW paints - though some colors aren't exact matches)

Despite how expensive they are, GW does have a really solid system down that makes it easy to get the desired results. Also, get yourself a wet palette - it will make your paint last longer.

This one: (throw away the paper it comes with, it's shit. Replace with some baking paper (non wax).

In regards to the different subsections of paint GW has, it's mostly just for ease. You can technically use ANY paint as a drybrush paint, the ones labeled as such are just designed for that purpose ONLY.

TLDR: Any paint from any company will do, but they all go on differently. Some you may have to thin more than others, some may have worse coverage. GW's system is good and is popular for good reason. Get a wet palette.

u/uptheaffiliates · 4 pointsr/Warhammer

I like this one a lot.

u/DIVE-BUOY · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Honestly really great work for a first model. Almost can't believe it.

You asked for critique and comments/suggstions though so here's my best shot.

  1. Mold lines! - I use the back of an Xacto knife and lightly scrape away the flashing trying to avoid taking away enough material to make any flat spots. Then I kind of blend out any flat spots that I do happen to create using the same process.

  2. Thin your paints! Thin your paints! Thin your paints! It will help a TON with how smooth the paint comes out. Yes, you'll need to keep adding water along the way to keep it the same consistency. A wet palette can really help here. I use this one which is less than $11. There are plenty of tutorials for a do it yourself wet palette too. Especially thin your highlight paints. Thinner paints will allow your highlights to look more like a gradient from extra light without having to actually blend to the original color. When you want it brighter, just go over with another really thin coat. I can see where it kind of globbed up on some of the highlighting. Thin coats will help keep that from happening too by making the paint easier to control.

  3. Check out some washes. You'll absolutely love how easy it makes flesh. Most of the flesh coloring for elves I do anymore is just scar white + reikland fleshshade. Added bonus that it gives you really clean gradients of darkness/light so you don't have to be so exact highlighting fingers and faces and what-not. Really great work on the flesh portions of your mini by the way. That is not easy to do the way you did it and you 100% pulled it off.

    Overall, it looks very nice. I just finished a glade guard model myself for skirmish. When I get home I'll post a picture of it if you're interested in seeing.

u/spartankelli · 4 pointsr/Gloomhaven

A great place to start is the mini painting starter sets by Reaper:

They're not too expensive, and they are a great intro to mini painting. They also come with pieces to practice techniques on, and a lot of paints to work with as well. I'd get those, and maybe some brushes.

I also would recommend a wet palette to keep paints wet between painting sessions, magnifying glasses to help see, and a mini holder.

I also got these brushes, which seem to be working well for me, and have a mix of useful ones.

u/IgwanaRob · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I bought one of these for using away from my hobby bench:

It has spot for a small water cup, I used some spare foam to turn the phone holder into a paintbrush holder, and it collapses in on itself for transport/storage.

There's also this one specific to Humbrol stuff, but can easily be used for other brands:

It's nice because it has spots for 2 cups, brushes, paints, and even a cutting mat.

Otherwise, any lap desk or tray table would be fine, especially if he's just starting out. Get an "artbin satchel" (or something similar from amazon or a local art store) to store everything else in when not in use.

Another thing to think about is this:

This will let him use and store the paint he's working with without drying out, and also allows them to be stored for several weeks - it's easy to clean and reuse (just follow the included instruction for setting it up).

u/shoots_N_loaders · 3 pointsr/minipainting

You have a great foundation. It looks like you are using unthinned citadel paints out of the pot.

Grab a wet palette for like $12

Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857

I drop a dab of paint on the palette dip my brush in water and then mix the water and paint on the palette. Then paint with that. It may take a few tries to get the consistency where you want, but thinning will get the look you want.

u/totally_just_bob · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

u/fxakira · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Try Vallejo or Citadel for hand-painting. These paints can be thinned with water and self-level a lot better than Tamiya acrylics jars.


Best tip I can give you is to make a wet-pallete with Vallejo or Citadel - this method removes the guess-work of how much water you need to add to the paint (usually a 1:1 ratio, but it will differ if you use metallic colors or some other types). All you will need is a shallow plastic tray, a sponge, and baking sheets. Cost is relatively low (<$10) if you make it yourself, but if you are not sure if you can,


IF you want to continue using tamiya for hand painting, you NEED to get Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. This gives the tamiya acrylics stronger adhesion (the Leveling Thinner is lacquer-based) but it also extends the drying time, so the paint can self-level.


Lastly, look up on brush care guides. It is important you use the correct brush type to the job, and to keep your brush clean for a good paint job.

u/ExMayo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Actually had not heard of a wet palette until this comment. They look like a huge help. Do you have a recommendation on a wet palette? A quick Amazon search seems to indicate that this pallete might be a great bargain buy.

u/casualsax · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I didn't dilute the base coat at all on purpose, but I used this wet palette which is essentially a damp piece of parchment paper sitting on a sponge. I think that my coats were more likely light because I didn't refresh the paint on the brush often enough.

u/crazyivan111 · 2 pointsr/Gloomhaven

There's been some good advice here already, but one thing I haven't seen anyone say yet is to thin your paints. The best way I've found to do this is to put some paint on your palette (ideally a wet palette e.g. $12 from amazon) and then add a drop or two of water to it. The thinner the paint you use, the more coats it will take but the more detail from the model itself is preserved.

u/Philostic · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Depends on the paint series - I think Miniac on YouTube has a video which compares paint kits that talks about the quality of the paints. He has critiques for other reaper paints, but the Bones paints are good.

I've had slight coverage issues with one or two paints, forcing me to go back with several coats, but nothing egregious. Out of the bottle, most everything is a good consistency, and covers well in a single coat (in my inexperienced opinion.)

(Also, if you haven't run into this advice yet, it is ABSOLUTELY worth getting a wet palette. Something like this.

u/Cleave · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

You just need to use the tupperware pot, not the lid, and get a thinner sponge that will cover the base of it. The sponge should be sitting in some water so that it stays wet and you want to cut the paper to be slightly smaller than the sponge so it doesn't curl up.

Or just get one of these, they're perfect.

u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Painting supplies, I like a mix of cheap and quality brushes.

u/Hurleyburleyalters · 2 pointsr/mtgaltered

Get a wet palette. You won't/don't need to add water to GFAs.

EDIT: The blue and black you see on my palette is a day old.

u/VHD_ · 2 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Lots of good advice above (I just started mini painting recently), but I'll add a few more things.

  1. A wet palette is incredibly helpful. It can be built extremely cheap using household supplies or you can buy one for $10 like this:
  2. Good lighting makes a huge difference. You can get a high temperature ('white' light instead of soft warm light) bulb for a lamp.
  3. A mini holder is really handy. You can make your own out of poster putty + cork or you can get something like this GW holder Repositioning the mini can make a difficult part of the painting much easier.

    I am using the Vallejo Basic Colors paint set for about $30 and it's been great so far.
u/lylamev · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I use my reaper paints on my sta-wet palette, so it is not only made for acrylic. It has made a huge difference in my painting, and probably one of the top tips I would give anyone who is starting out. Also! I was double checking my links and realized I had linked to the extra big palette, not the small one I normally use. The one I use is only $10, here is the link! I have also updated the blog post, so thank you for helping me catch that!

ANYWAY, if you are unsure about spending the money, here is a DIY tutorial on making your own. I highly recommend a wet palette, it can make a big difference in your painting! Using paint that is too dry can cause texture and won't blend as easily, so it can be a big problem.

u/TheWeedsiah · 2 pointsr/minipainting

There metallic paint in the kit usually sucks and is hard to get coverage, ymmv. I bought a set of metallics from another company.

I would also recommend getting or making wet pallete(Either one you choose use parchment paper (not the thick paper that comes with store bought wet palette)

Take your time and remember you can always go back over a section. Also deviate from the instructions if you want to try something and see how it looks, best way to learn imo.

Definitely get the 2nd kit. All the models scale up but the techniques in second get really make minis look good. They are super time consuming though.

My Orc

My Knight

Spent better part of a day on each, really blew my mind I was able to do something I told myself I never could because I had no artistic ability 20 years ago. Have fun and post results.

u/taka06 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You could try out a wet palette, it will help with your paint consistency to get to the "just right" thinness. You can get an actual wet palette with a sponge and purpose-built container like this, or you can make your own out of a tupperware container, paper towel, and some parchment paper following something like this guide. If you get the sta-wet one, I recommend using parchment paper instead of the paper they provide. I think it generally works better for model acrylics.

I won't pretend to understand the science behind it, but I do know that it has helped my paint thinning game immensely.

u/onebit · 1 pointr/minipainting

I've read craft paints have less and larger pigment than miniature paints. They worked fine on the terrain I painted.

Judging by this thread they work, but the guy shoukd have used more coats to get good coverage.

Another convenient thing about mini paints is the color variations. Reaper (my new personal choice-- switched from Vallejo) is pretty cool, because it has shade/base/highlight triads. Seems like GW is moving to this as well.

The main thing is to dilute paints a little on the palette. Almost every kind of paint is too thick from the bottle.

If you want some good, inexpensive brushes check out Rosemary & Co series 33 brushes.

u/ripman21 · 1 pointr/minipainting

This is what I use and it works great! It's pretty cheap and will last forever if you take good care of it. The paper can also be used many times over and on both sides so the 5 sheets that are included should last a while depending on how often you paint.

u/ProgenitorX · 1 pointr/minipainting

Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit

Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.


If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.

u/theywillnotsing · 1 pointr/Warmachine

I bought a third party one.

That one. It works great. same as the PP one basically but without the flimsy hinge, and it had prime shipping!

u/crockett8513 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Okay, that makes sense. Sounds a whole lot cheaper than this, too!

u/a4d9 · 1 pointr/minipainting

No problem! I was the EXACT same way! Painting right out of the pot, never thinning, priming, or varnishing miniatures... But seriously, trust me that the longer you put off getting a wet palette (just like I did) the more you'll regret it. It keeps your paint from drying out as quickly and saves you a TON of money. You literally just need this and some parchment paper(Just because the paper that comes with it is pretty bad in my opinion). You can DIY your own wet palette to start off with which there's plenty of tutorials for, but the thing I linked has been a life saver and is much better than a homemade one.

I cant tell just from looking at your paint job just because it doesn't actually effect the visual of the paint job- but getting some primer and varnish are huge too. They're more for keeping the paint job on the model instead of actually improving painting, but they're essential too if you haven't used them yet. And ALWAYS shake your matt varnish well, or it'll make your model glossy. You may already know this stuff which is completely fine- I just know these are things that weren't pointed out to me until way farther down the line, and I was kicking myself because I didn't know about them.

Thinning paints is still something I struggle with, most recently on my Luke model. Just lots of testing and trial and error, but this guy explains it pretty well. You're definitely headed in the right direction though, getting these few things down will open up a whole new world as far as what you can do with a model. Good luck!

u/littleladle · 1 pointr/painting

I also just started out in acrylics. I'm not sure of a good set that has everything in one, but I can share what I got to get started. For Christmas I got the basics, i.e. Red, Yellow, Blue, White, and Blank paint (Premiere acrylics), some canvases (8x10 and 12x16), a set of 12 different Royal and Langnickel brushes, and a wooden table-top easel.

Additional items I went back to AC Moore and bought:

--Silver, Gold, Brown, Green, Orange, and Purple paints

--A sta-wet palette which keeps your paints from drying up while you are working.

--Palette knife

--Canvas panels

-- Liquitex Gloss medium & Varnish

-- Brush Cleaner (same as this one on Amazon)

Basically I was having trouble finding an All-in one kit, so I got everything separately. One thing I would have done differently is buy a multipack of the paints with more colors to save time mixing. If you want to go pick stuff out in person then AC Moore or Michaels, as JT suggested, are great. Otherwise, everything seems to be on Amazon and the reviews tend to be pretty helpful! I actually made my shopping list by looking up things on Amazon and then went to the store because I was too impatient to want to wait for shipping.

u/Main-Vein · 1 pointr/Tau40K

Try a wet palette so your paint doesn't start to gum up. And try a larger brush (it holds more moisture so the paint on tip doesn't dry as quick)

I personally bought a wet palette on amazon and a winsor & newton series 7 size 3 brush and it's really helped smooth my paint out. The clumps are coming from paint drying.

People who say "expensive" brushes aren't worth it and that you should be Michelangelo before buying anything nice are pretentious.

u/Vz-Rei · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Wet Pallete

You can get sponges from amazon or crafting stores, as well as the paper from super markets.

u/kiwi_mp3 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Would this one be comparable? Costs a bit less but if the other would work better I don’t mind paying a bit more.

u/g_borris · 1 pointr/minipainting

For those of you who have 10 dollars and want the real thing:

It works great. I have gouache paints in mine from four months ago that are still moist and I haven't added water.

u/necrofuturism · 1 pointr/minipainting

You can get a palette that has a sponge to keep your paints moist. Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857

u/BukkitBoss · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

This subreddit's guides seem to really like Golden Fluid Acrylics. I personally avoided them due to their high initial cost of 7-10$ per bottle and got a non name brand of fluid acrylics. It's been working well enough for me, but your mileage may vary. If you're confident that you'll be doing this for a while- go for broke! You'll really only need 5 colours to start.

I'd recommend getting a wet palette. This thing makes mixing acrylics a breeze. It keeps the paint wet, without being runny and can even let you take a break and come back to still perfectly mixed paints.

As for brushes... that's outside my area of expertise. I just ended up grabbing a mid-range selection of flat and round brushses. I tend to prefer the flat 1,2 and round 0. Quality of the brush will dictate how long they last, so if you're only getting a couple it won't hurt to spend 5$ or more on each.

As for the sealant, I'm using an acrylic safe matte varnish. I've had tons of luck with it, and it imparts an awesome look to a painted card. I don't know if it's required, but I erred on the side of caution for this one. There's little effort involved in spraying a coat or two over your work.

Edit: Oh,as for when to apply, you can just spray down the card once the paint is dry. The bottle I'm using recommends 24 hours, but I've done it as soon as one hour after painting without issue.


  • Golden Fluid Acrylics
  • Wet palette (like a Sta-Wet)
  • Any non-crappy brush
  • Acrylic safe varnish
u/crabbyk8kes · 1 pointr/minipainting

A wet palette will change your life. You can make them yourself or buy them online.

u/AsavarKul · 1 pointr/minipainting
Maybe it's not as small as A5, but it's smaller than A4. Also, don't use the paper that comes with it, go to the supermarket and get parchment paper.