(Part 2) Best 12v batteries according to redditors
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best 12v batteries. We ranked the 97 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![12 VOLT 7Ah BATTERY-Battery [Electronics]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41Tb12VM7ZL.jpg)
If we're talking about the same model (SUA1500RM2U):
The sleds are overpriced, you can punch the dead batteries out of an old sled and put in new ones at half the price of an entirely new sled.
What I did was hunt for battery trays/sleds (mine didn't come with any, by the sounds of it you already have the trays), then punch out the old dead batteries with a rubber mallet and a flat blunt screwdriver bit (the sticky adhesive they used to fix the batteries in there are REALLY strong, but with enough percussive encouragement they'll come out), bought four of these batteries (any 12V SLA battery with the same physical dimensions will work, 9 Ah is probably the largest that you can get at that physical size) and (carefully, wouldn't want to start a fire now) wired the new batteries in the old tray. Been working ever since.
edit: I can engrish
At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...
-or-
side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63
additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.
Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.
Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
I just ran the numbers and this setup (with slightly better batteries) could provide a max of 65 watts, so power draw isn't going to be a limit.
A Pi zero can draw a max of ~240 mA, with normal load staying around 170 mA and idle being at 120mA.
This would give you respective times of 72 hours full load, 101 hours on normal load, and 144 hours on idle, though this is running only the RP0.
If you run a SSD, then that's another 700mA and another 1500mA for a HDD.
This would pull your times down to 18, 20, and 21 hours for the SSD
and 9.94, 10.36, and 10.68 hours for the HDD.
This math was done off of the assumption of running on a 12v, 7.2A battery like this one which is similar to what is used in the guide.
The current output of a battery is not determined by it's voltage.
e.g. these 12V batteries could output less than one amp, This 12V battery can output 3,300 amps
This is a good website to learn about batteries:
https://batteryuniversity.com/
Amazon, I found it!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MHSCWI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12v batteries can just die and come back. My Leaf complained one day, made us pull over on the interstate, I wiggled the terminals and no problems 2 years later. I heard reports that 30 years ago sometimes the lead plates inside would touch and the battery melting down or exploding to the point only a corner was left.
Your post sounds like a huge overreaction to something you can go to your local parts store and fix in ~20 min with a 10mm, 12mm, or 1/2in wrench. I am sympathetic that this happened, always sucks, but learn to deal with hurdles and overcome them. Maybe there is some way to learn about the basics of cars where you aren't afraid of a 12v battery, flat tire, or running out of washer fluid. You seem very angry about the helpless you are feeling from a 12v battery not even made by Tesla. Good luck.
Edit: Classic RWD Model S looks to be a pain the first time, new dual motor looks super easy. I am glad Tesla fixed that since the 12V seems to be such a problem. Looks like Model S uses a DCS-33IT which I found online and a someone claims to be better than OEM option but that doesn't help you in your driveway on a weekend. You could consider getting a jumpbox assuming you have the new style just to get to around for a few days. Since EV aren't doing high cranking amps I was looking for a cigarette lighter booster which may help if you car at least turns on, but didn't see anything that wasn't IDY.
I use these with good results
I’ve shot probably 10 rolls using a Canon 1218 without them dying yet. Make sure not to leave them in the camera with the camera switched on or they’ll get used up.
Still figuring out how to power it /u/jrossoriginal & /u/Burnetts119, but thinking this should do the trick. Hypothetically all I'd need is that battery, some wire, and one of these babies and I wouldn't have to worry about charging it.
umm it's 99 on amazon and fuffilled by reeds outdoor which is a solid company.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07KRMYMHL/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1574098482&sr=1-7
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not sure the quality differance.
I used this pump:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XERUTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#
Powered by this battery:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DR3IIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCRG22A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This simple and cheap setup basically gave me 2 garden hoses (2ea 1/2 inch pipes t'd off of the main 1" line)
I could water for like an hour in the morning, an hour at sundown and probably 3-4 hours at mid-day in full sun with the battery never running down more than a tiny ammount. I also charged phones, computers, flashlights, etc with this system at the same time. You should be able to pump your ass off with a system like this.
Things to note... The pump only has about a 20 foot lift so if the top of the water in the swamp is farther than 20 vertical feet (not linear) from where the end of the hose is you may be in trouble. Also, make some sort of coarse filter so leaves and mud and such does not clog it. A few mesh bags around a 5 gallon bucket with a ton of 2" holes and a rock to weight it down did the trick for me! Good luck.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRKT4A-4-Channel-Waterproof-Amplified/dp/B003GSLDUY/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372308323&sr=1-30&keywords=marine+radio
http://www.amazon.com/UBCD5745-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DL7D1O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372308724&sr=8-2&keywords=sla+battery
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-Stereo-Output/dp/B0091AEAYM/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372308840&sr=1-15&keywords=bluetooth+receiver
http://www.amazon.com/Igloo-MaxCold-Roller-Cooler-60-Quart/dp/B000F6WDXQ/ref=sr_1_21?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1372308994&sr=1-21&keywords=latch
That said (and I agree), here's a hypothetical for the EE crowd to ponder...
They all use AC Adapters. For example, the Kickr Snap uses a 12v 5A adapter, so couldn't you run it off of a $15 battery, like this? Yes, you would have to fit your own custom wire, and yes, you would have to recharge that periodically at the house (or maybe via solar).
And yes, I realize that this risks blowing up a $500 trainer, hence the hypothetical classification.
From some quick research, the OE replacement pack for that UPS is RBC55. The "kit" has 2 24V 17ah batteries packs. Each of those batteries is actually 2 12v 17ah batteries in series. So total you have 4 12v batteries each with capacity of 17ah.
Here's a picture of a 3rd party replacement that shows the battery terminals between the two batteries that have been taped together. https://cdn-reichelt.de/bilder/web/xxl_ws/E910/CSB_SCD55_01.png
Since we're talking lead acid batteries the capacity of the battery is directly related to the amount of lead, and due to the value of lead cost is also more or less proportional to the capacity.
The battery packs in that UPS have basically the same weight/capacity of 8 of the 12v 8ah batteries I purchase for ~$30 CAD. So to be in the ~$240 Canadian or $200 us range is actually not bad in my books. You do have the option to use different smaller or larger batteries if you found a good deal somewhere. I've read about people using car batteries for stupid long runtimes. With larger batteries you'll probably have to extend the wires and keep them external to the UPS, and with smaller batteries you have to make sure you're not going overwhelm them with too much charge or discharge current. Its generally easier to stay in the same range.
Ripping apart your old packs to salvage the wires and plugs saves you money. From my battery supplier the drop in replacment is $275, vs each battery is $54. Here's an example of a battery from from amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/AB12180-Replaces-MX-12170-Wheelchair-Battery/dp/B07W99SJZX/ I'll leave it up to you to verify the terminal types and also verify the dimensions, but I'm pretty sure those would work.
The question is unrelated to so-called "solar generators".
My biased PoV: Optima's spiral design is great for lots of surface area, but IMO not great for deep cycling. Cool? Yes. Sexy? Yeah. But they are rare in RVs/campers for good reason.
If it were me I'd add alternator charging to the mix; that and the 100w solar would give the existing batts a better chance in life. See more on this at the bottom.
Charing the phones and other gear when there is excess power will keep those loads from ganging up on the battery at night.
> the low voltage shut off kicked on twice and the battery went down to 12.3 volts
I assume this means the fridge's low voltage disconnect (LVD) shut the fridge off twice. You may be able to config it to cut off at a lower voltage. I am not particularly worried about the 12.3v bottom itself. Under load the bank voltage could sag below the 12.1-12.2v rule of thumb and return above that when the compressor quit running or whatever.
The 50% depth of discharge rule of thumb is a compromise between useful capacity and number of lifetime cycles. You can push below this without significant damage if you can get current back into the battery sooner rather than later. Hence the battery isolator ($25-$100) mentioned above.
If you had the isolator and were disciplined about keeping the suitacase deployed and aligned, I'd say run the snot out of the existing batts until you figure out where you are going next.
Although they are $$$, I agree with /u/211logos that LFP are a better fit for your use pattern than lead-acid. You are currently getting 37.5Ah of usable capacity for $9.12/Ah. A 50Ah LFP would give 40Ah usable capacity for $12.50/Ah. BUT the LFP would last several times longer than the Optimas resulting in much lower cost over time.
Is your Optima taken care of in between these 10 annual trips? (ie, fully charged then floating)
Car batteries are the same way. The battery I got has a warning printed on the side, but this second battery I'm looking at does not (link). Perhaps this is only an issue with some and not others? Hooking up a charger to the second battery is a great idea! I'll definitely make sure I have that capability.
This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/
Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/
Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.
No problem! I'm also an aspiring off-gridder, both learning how to generate power and most importantly to preserve it. :)
I had a bunch of cables and connectors so i was able to reuse some stuff but here are the main components, excluding battery and panel for now. Shipping costs are included.
About 17 bucks (2 bulbs/switches), assuming you can scavenge some cables and already have duct tape/heat-shrink tube. Now for the most critical parts, the battery and the panel itself, you can cheapen out on eBay as well but i'd advice against it. I'd go to Amazon instead. Or, maybe, your local auto repair shop can give you an old car battery for free... it never hurts to ask. :)
Mounting the panel is a matter of creativity. :) (I used some Pattex "No More Nails" i had lying around)
Now, let's open the calculator. Excluding some cable, maybe alligator clips, duct tape, zip ties and all that, the total cost of the system would be $52.94 w/ two bulbs and switches. And that's for a 10W system... i'm on 5W. I'd have gone a bit bigger but i already had the panel.
It really isn't that expensive to have a small PV setup nowadays... the problem is usually finding a good place to mount the panels. And if you live in the city you're pretty much SOL. :/
Hope this helps, and best of lucks in you future endeavors!
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(edited, i keep finding the same stuff even cheaper...)
those look like two 7.2 Ah batteries. I wonder if they're flipped upside-down.
So would a power source like this and a balancer like this work? I'd have to change the connectors to xt60 obviously.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3PW2GH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xbEBCbR9QGJ1Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KS648LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JgEBCbWPG2Y70
I use the Bravo BP12 pump. I bought a small portable 12v battery so that I don’t have to worry about draining the car battery or leaving by the engine on.
This is what I bought: ExpertPower EXP1280 12V8AH Rechargeable Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQX5EDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MU0KBbQATAZWQ
This battery fits in the bag that the Bravo BP12 came with.
I’ve pumped up 4 iSUPs with it without any issue. I just hook it up to a trickle charger when I get home.
The manual for the BP12 says it’ll work with any 12V battery 7 amp or higher.
https://www.seaeagle.com/img/InstructionalPDF/BP12.pdf
12V car batteries are everywhere, if your bike-charger 'fails' you can always use a local battery with jumper cables for your projector.
To power your projector, you can use a 12Vdc-19Vdc-5A converter like on this page: http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/12v-dc-to-19v-dc-converter.html
(Or maybe the 10A version for better heat dissipation).
To charge your(any) 12V battery from your scooter-motor (or solar panel), a 12V-10A battery charger like this will (very probably) work:
http://www.aliexpress.com/mppt-charge-controller_reviews.html
This will limit the cyclists energy to ~150W, which is a 'serious hobby' level, but they also have a 5A unit, that would be better suited for a 6/12Ah battery.
Battery:
for your 75W, at 12.5Vbatt, that draws 6A, normally for a lead-acid battery a C10 rating is used to maximize life expectancy (discharge in 10 hours, charge during 12 hours), a 60Ah battery would be needed.
You could use a 12Ah (AGM) battery (or even a 6Ah), "deep cycle" is strongly recommended: http://www.amazon.com/ML12-12-12AH-DEEP-CYCLE-RECHARGEABLE-BATTERY/dp/B00BWVVOTW
It will discharge to 75%(50%) which is good, but the high current will reduce the number of charge/discharge-cycles from 1000-ish to maybe 200(100)-ish.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/GP-High-Voltage-Alkaline-Batteries/dp/B004SK9P0O/
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
Thank you for this! I was looking for a nice cheap method. If I couldn't get a free one , is this the same? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R9PYEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eUA2Bb75XQ07W
That is some information I needed to learn! I had it somewhere in the back of my head that battery voltage would drop linearly until the battery was just totally dead and that preconception never really jived with the few things I've about electronics just toying with an arduino. I've made assumptions about how batteries work all my life, but never really bothered to question my guesses. I think I'm about to go down a rabbit hole and research the subject until I'm satisfied.
Also, I'm looking into possibly getting this battery assuming that going from 7aH to 18aH will do the trick. I have a trickle charger that should work with it. I'm not going to make a move on it until I do some reading, though.
Thanks!
It's a Piranhamax 150 I picked it up at Academy for $50 during a sale. I think it's regular $80, it works pretty good I have no complaints. I tried to mount the transducer to the hull but I kept kicking it loose so I just wrap the cord around the base of my mount (you can see in the picture) and drop the transducer in the water just below the hull of my yak.
It's hooked up to a 12v battery stored in a dry bag I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/UPG-Security-12V-7-2Ah-Certified-Electronics/dp/B001MHSCWI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373486574&sr=1-2
Don't forget the charger either!: http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Battery-Charger-UPG-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
This Fridge and this battery
would 12v batteries help?
http://www.amazon.com/GP-High-Voltage-Alkaline-Batteries/dp/B004SK9P0O/
So if I got something like this (http://www.amazon.com/ML12-12-12AH-DEEP-CYCLE-RECHARGEABLE-BATTERY/dp/B00BWVVOTW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397411432&sr=8-2&keywords=agm+battery+12+ah) What kind of charger should I get? Would I hook it up in parallel or use the panal mount coax jack with an NC switch?
Now do it with a 3V lithium 123A!
Then do it with a 12V A23!
12V would be really fast I bet!
Like this? UB1270 - 12V 7AH SLA BATTERY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089N311K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p8.ZBbTYBKVGW
The SLA should be 12 volts. It's a standard size for lawnmowers.
https://www.amazon.com/UB1270-12V-7AH-SLA-BATTERY/dp/B0089N311K
Why do I get the feeling that you're trying to stick a car battery in that thing?
Many "small" UPSs use this type of battery: https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Scientific-SLA-7-12-Battery/dp/B000R9PYEQ
Basically the $150 UPSs are 2 of those batteries and a 750w inverter/charger with an automatic transfer switch. Any AGM lead acid battery is just as safe to have in a closed vehicle as a UPS.
I know what he meant, but why spend $60 on that when I could spend $13 on one of these and leave it in parallel? It'll run my printer for like 15 minutes with the heated bed on, or about an hour with the heated bed off. And no inverter for me to worry about blowing out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A4N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k4n-ybJF543A9