(Part 2) Best 3d printer extruders according to redditors

Or just buy a Bondtech BMG clone for $15 and have a super reliable extruder that can do flexibles. The amazon link for the metal extruder in that post is way overpriced at $17 anyway. I bought this one, even though I have a BMG clone now... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMS66ZH

Great printer, the Ender 3 is very popular right now because it is fully open source. Which means if you have any questions, then there is lots of community support for it right now.

Out of the box everything is great, the only thing I would suggest is to spend a few bucks and upgrade the bed springs right off the bat. I've had mine a few months. Once I got my bed level it has been running great.

Also buy a few roles of PLA filament, because it only comes with enough to get a few test prints. Oh, and replacement nozzles, because they will eventually wear down and need replaced.

Oh dang, that is some dedication to post-processing! If you're interested in doing more small scale printing you could pick up some smaller nozzles. I got a set with some 0.2mm nozzles for mini printing

If you are missing steps, that would most likely be the extruder. The one they include on the CR-10 is cheap, it has a plastic lever and a crappy brass feed gear.

Most people upgrade to an aluminum extruder like this one, and I would recommended using a 40T steel gear instead of the brass one. Steel holds up a lot better, so the teeth will stay sharp longer and more teeth will grip the filament to keep it from skipping steps.

You don't have to replace the whole hotend if there's a problem with the threads in the heater block. You can get this instead.

I know it is 25% the cost of your printer, but since you are looking at options…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W4E5ITI/

Regular: https://www.amazon.com/Nozzle-Micro-Swiss-Hotend-Upgrade/dp/B01EIJD7Z8

Hardened: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-nozzle-Hotend-Hardened/dp/B01LOYTH86/

so .... something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-nozzle-Hotend-Hardened/dp/B01LOYTH86

or were you looking for a cheaper 3rd party variant

the information on the thread has to be somewhere, you can use nozzles that are the same thread just fine (account for possible differences in the Z axis though)

i'm currently using a .8 nozzle from e3d in my taz after my default nozzle jammed super hard printing brassfill (also wanted to print in bigger layers)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0188G39MI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482889760&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=barrel+anycubic+throat&dpPl=1&dpID=41VkGDntWAL&ref=plSrch

This variety pack will fit the Ender 3.

Nozzles

PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.

I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!

The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.

Hope that helps!

Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them

The standard/stock nozzle on the Maker Select v2 is .4mm brass nozzle (not .1mm, layer height and nozzle size aren't directly related). If you want to get a reinforced nozzle you can grab one on Amazon or any other 3D Printing shop. Just look for nozzles for the MK10 or that mention Duplicator i3.

Another option that you should consider (if you've got the budget and the time) is upgrading the whole hotend to an all metal hotend which helps when printing hotter temperatures for things like PETG and ABS. Micro Swiss makes a well regarded all-metal hotend and also sells reinforced nozzles for it (here and here)

KINGPRINT Upgraded Replacement 3D Printer Part MK8 Extruder Aluminum Block Bowden Extruder 1.75MM Filament Reprap Extrusion for CR10/CR-10/CR-10S DIY(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMS66ZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mghSCbWGZV7VV

This one was 10 when I bought it but it’s 13 on amazon now. Bought it for both my Enders and it works great

That's the PTFE liner for your hotend. Looks like something like this may be what you need: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDBWVP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20

I ordered all of it on amazon. I got the dotbit bmg clone, although the triangle labs was recommended more, and the pancake stepper from stepper online via amazon. The direct drive kit I got was the basaraba dd upgrade kit. To attach a bmg style extruder to this kit, you’ll need a printed or machined adapter. I managed to have a connection and got someone to machine a mount for mine specifically

Stepper: STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor 0.7A 13Ncm (18.4oz.in) 17HS10-0704S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LESPDCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aeAWDbHDJ8A49

Bmg clone:

3D Printer Bowden Extruder,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6X7DKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Kit, Compatible with Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro, no firmware Modification Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9S9KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rfAWDbZQWTYK1

It’s important to put the spacer in this dd kit in between the motor and bmg clone as the motor shaft will push against the outer shell of the extruder, and cause a lot of issues.

I also am using a microswiss hotend

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Printer-0-4-Nozzle-Replacement/dp/B01853OBPI

I have an Ender 3 and the nozzles are pretty much standard across all printers, so don't have to stick to just monoprice:

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-0-4mm-Extruder-Creality/dp/B07B92TDVH/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1537388773&sr=1-4&keywords=0.4+mm+nozzle&dpID=510a9eY2%252ByL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You probably already have the smallest block. Bu you can find nozzle that can give you a little more clearance, something like this. It's not a lot, but it can help.

Also, you can shave the corners without penalty, i think. Blocks have that shape only because it's not an issue with normal 3d printing, and it's cheap to just cut blocks. And the inertia they provide is useful for speed only. At your speed, it's probably fine to have an ultra reduced block.

The thing that can help you is an induction heated nozzle. It's still in the weird DIY project realm, some people are on it, but the potential is here. No block required, the nozzle do everything and temperature inertia is virtually no existent.

Honestly this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LO3HKK4. The $2 part that broke basically made it impossible to print. If I knew that would happen I would have gotten this from the get go so that never happens again.

Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/IronBuddy-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B07QZ1BFDR/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=.2mm+nozzle+printer&qid=1563235895&s=gateway&sr=8-10

here's ten bucks for a 5 pack

https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Nozzles-Printer-Aluminum-Makerbot/dp/B07KBCYSL2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=heat+block&qid=1565995270&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Its teflon tube so glue isnt gonna stick to it. I tried. you need a M6 bowden connector and a M6 nut. Print this part https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793080 by removing the 2 screws holding the bowden connector down and removing it. Hold the tube in place for the duration of the print with your thumb. It will suck but you can do it, i believe in you. This part will let you attach a regular threaded bowden connector to the new MP select mini v2 with the modified cheap ass bowden fitting. Once that's in place, even only halfway screwed in print the base of this part. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756509 you don't need the arms, just the base. Once that's printed remove your extruder feeder, screw in the new base, using the M6 nut attach the threaded bowden conenctor. Put the old arm on, old screw, etc. You're good to go. How do I know this? Oh no reason. I just did it a few days ago...https://imgur.com/a/SOCXXzn


Or RMA your printer and wait 3 weeks for a new one...your choice. A pair of M6 nuts cost me like $0.49 at the hardware store and 10 bowden connectors was like $8 on amazon. I also tried this "bolt on replacement" and it didn't fit correctly. https://www.amazon.com/Redrex-1-75mm-Filament-Extruder-Printer/dp/B01LO3HKK4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=mpsmwiki-20&linkId=da5703adf10e92d89680d3fe34074fc3

I use a .2 nozzle for minis. The link has several sizes. There are many nozzle swap guides on youtube to check out because if done wrong it will clog. CCTREE 10pcs MK8 Extruder Nozzle For... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075487F63?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grab these and keep printing.

That link looks like a Bowden extruder setup where the stepper motor is further upstream from where the plastic is melted/extruded.

I have a MS+ also, the recommended replacement for that part is the MicroSwiss all metal hotend.

Here is the block:
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EPg0BbVAAANA1

Extruder plate:
Micro Swiss CNC Machined Aluminum Extruder Plate for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XMRFKRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uQg0Bb6WV1GXG

Lever:
CNC Machined Lever for Wanhao i3 extruder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWHH4DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WQg0Bb10AFP5T

I replace my nozzles about once a week and re-level the bed at the same time i dont bother with cold pulls cuz i get like 20 nozzles for $9 I will also change nozzles when switching from petg to pla not sure about recent review but the ones i got seem to be fine

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B92TDVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LOYTH86/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b6cWs2t_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=GJ6T8HTHRXCM5DJWZY8V&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=40cd3c0b-76e1-57d1-a907-cda9370f3f95&pf_rd_i=6066132011

It is supposed to be here today, so I can't tell you whether it is good or not yet.

I got an assortment from Amazon from 1mm to .2mm, 21 of them for maybe 10 bucks US. They've been fine.. but I haven't seen the videos. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HCGWKDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would something like this work as it says universal? Was having a slightly difficult time looking for my Maker Select as most things are listed for the Monoprice Mini as it is much more popular.

E3D Lite6 Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct) (12v) https://amazon.com/dp/B00W4E5ITI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zqq5BbGYR659P

Glad I could help. (Maybe? ;)

Good turning down the accelerations and jerk I had to do the same thing and it does help.

So for the glass bed, I bought [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which has been excellent for me despite some of the bad reviews. I also bought this thermal pad. It has to come from china which is kinda a pain but it delivered pretty quickly and is HUGE compared to some of the other ones on amazon. That means I can use it for other projects and have replacement pads, which is nice.

Here's a great guide for this and for most things related to this printer

I also went ahead and upgraded to a Micro Swiss nozzle which has been a really nice upgrade for me. I also upgraded the filament feed lever because I like fancy aluminium replacement parts and the plastic one didn't seem like it was going to make it in the long run.

A note about shipping: They are FAST. I hit order and within fifteen minutes my order was out their door and on it's way.

The final thing I did was purchase a shim set. At my work, we do a LOT with 3D printing. We've found that using shims to set the nozzle exactly .2mm off the bed is the best way to get the printer to excel on the first layer. If you are confused on how to use the shims to achieve this, I can take a picture.

EDIT: When using the glass bed you're going to have use Elmers Disapearing Purple School Glue to get prints to stick. It's cheap and has been giving me excellent results. I may switch to Elmers Glue-All which we were using at work for Nylon prints and Gahddamn is that stuff great for nylon prints.

EDIT: RECALIBRATE YOUR ESTEP. This fixed a lot of my infill and layer problems because now my extruder is laying down the correct amount of filament.

It looks like these (or similar) would work for the hot end. That's M6 threads for the nozzle and thermal barrier tube, 6mm through-hole for the heater (can be drilled to 1/4") and an M3 threaded hole for the thermocouple.

I got a similar set a couple of years ago when I changed my Rep1 clone from a Mk10 (M7 w/a PTFE liner) to a Mk8 setup. I did have to do the drilling drill for the heater and also drill/tap for the M4 thermocouples I already had. Aluminum, so relatively easy peasy.

Amazon has several vendors selling kits with the threaded tube, hot block, and nozzle. You do not want those, at least not the threaded tubes. A proper Mk8 thermal barrier tube will have a thinned section (heat break) between the hot end and cooling bar; that helps to mitigate heat transfer up the tube. And it will also have a stepped diameter, with a slightly larger ID below the heat break, which helps to keep the melt pool contained. It looks like Fargo has some in stock, in addition to the P3-d tubes linked up above. Not all M6 thermal barrier tubes have the stepped diameter (and Fargo has one with and one without) so whichever one you get, be sure the description include that info.

I've been using these nozzles. They work fine.

When you assemble the thermal barrier tube into the cooling bar, use a single M6 nut on the bottom side of the cooling bar to tighten the thermal tube. That maximizes thread contact inside the cooling bar.

When you mount the nozzle be sure that it's tightening against the thermal tube and not the hot block. Usual advice is to have at least room for a fingernail between the nozzle and hot block.

Maker Select v2.1
Monoprice PLA
Printing temp: 215
Bed temp: 60

I just changed nozzles to these would that have anything to do with it? Just levelled the bed right before this as well. All I am trying to do is print out some mods before I can get to the real stuff! Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJS19C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I very much don't recommend them. Just had a second one fail after only 5hrs. Don't know if it's my filament causing a jam, but no reason the nozzle should fail that badly from a jam.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FJS19C0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I don't recall being able to manually force through with my previous nozzle either.

Just for comparison, this is my Benchy.

Dremel 3D20 with a Micro-Swiss HW-NOZ-MK10-04 recently installed.

PLA layer height .2mm, 20% fill, build speed 40mm/s, temp 220C. Sliced in Cura 3.1.0.

Wished I had printed it a little faster to get closer to your speed, but maybe this help to reinforce slower speed may help.

I have used these since June and haven't experienced any issues.

Been using 3D Solutech filament for a while and I love it. I got some black to print the TeachingTech electronics case and the prints were coming out rough. First layer looked bad, but ended up being okay since it was on the glass. However, the last layer on top looked bad and felt really rough, not the smooth I'm used to. Here are some things I've tried:

Flow: I measured the filament and it was a little small (.066-.067"). Also, my printer was pushing 96mm per 100mm in gcode. I increased flow to 107% to compensate, but that didn't help.

Filament: I swapped for some 3D Solutech orange I've done a lot of printing with. No dice, same issue.

Humidity: I opened a BRAND NEW 3D Solutech green that was still sealed with desiccant. Looks a -little- better, but is still pretty rough.

Nozzle: Put on a brand new nozzle, granted from the same supplier on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFQF3DW/).

Any ideas?

Edit: Bad leveling. Nozzle was too close to the bed.

I havent been abel to find any either, but these are only 1mm longer than stock, so youd need a 1mm z-spacer for them to work. Doing the spacer means you don't have to lower the print bed more, but you will lose 1mm off your z-axis height.

Now i'm not 100% sure on the spacer height, so if anyone can correct me id appreciate it.

If you're just printing PLA, brass is fine.

It's a bit of a compromise between hardness and thermal conductivity.

I went with a variety pack, and switch between 0.4 and 0.8 frequently:

https://www.amazon.ca/Extruder-Cleaning-Makerbot-Creality-Printer/dp/B07HCGWKDY

If you print a lot of abrasive materials (wood PLA, even glow in the dark filament, or exotic stuff like "metalfill")

That is not a spring. It is the heatbreak similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188G39MI

It is not the original heatbreak but that is what it is

my bad, didnt know the lite6 was different. I would try doing this:

https://www.amazon.com/PChero-Length-Extruder-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B06XDBWVP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=m6+heat+break&qid=1558295276&s=gateway&sprefix=m6+heat&sr=8-7

Just a normal threaded screw with a hole in the middle. If you have problem with heatcreep with this design I would then try making the heatbreak thinner.

So I got a tried out a new hardened steel nozzle. For reasons i had to replace to heater block on my ender 3, [the new block] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G1JWKQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OxyzCbREHK5XQ) has everything but but the thermistor hole is threaded and there is only one. The original has 2 so you can screw in a screw with a large shoulder to hold the wires in place. I placed the thermistor in the new hole and moved the head around and determined it wouldn't back out on it's own. I heated the nozzle to 230 and waited 10 minutes before I started the print. I normally print the ziro marble fill between 215 and 220 and raised the temp based on the increased temp needed for the new nozzle. The first layer went down really well and I watched it for a few hours before going to bed. I noticed it was much stringier than what I've gotten with using my retraction settings. When I woke up I was greeted to this monstrosity, very brittle with shoddy layer adhesion. I'm gonna try the new heater block with a brass nozzle to find out if the thermistor not being perfectly still in the block is messing up the temp readings and if that's the case I'm guessing my failed print was too hot.

Thanks for the down vote, very helpful

I'm going to do just that. I didn't print out the bracket thing. How can I mount it without one. Can I buy one?

Which e3d lite do I want? Universal or Bowden

If you are going to go down the path of upgrading the extruder, do not get one of the same style that is on the machine currently. There is a limitation in the design where you WILL encounter slipping of the extruder as you progress through the 3d printing journey.

Look at something like the bulldog:

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Injection-Extruder-Compatible-Filament/dp/B01G1K6FGK

Which is great, but requires adjusting the pinout on the stepper motor (or a firmware change)

OR

A BMG clone like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Extruder-Trianglelab-Creality-Ender-3/dp/B07P6X7DKL

It may be slightly more expensive, but the frustration that that they save when you start printing really fast and with large layer lines is priceless.

We are only talking about a couple of dollars anyway. LOL

You could just buy this off amazon
MK8 Extruder Nozzles Kit for 3D Printer 5 Pcs Aluminum Heater Block +5Pcs 1.75mm Extruder Throat Tube M6 Thread +5Pcs 0.4mm Brass Nozzle +5Pcs Cotton Heater Tape for Makerbot MK7/MK8 Prusa i3 CR-10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KBCYSL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O..ZDbCJTJCVK

I did this because amazon shipping is actually fast for once and its cheap.

No problem, theres a ton on amazon but this is the pack I bought recently.

IronBuddy 10Pcs 3D Printer Nozzles MK8 Nozzle 0.2mm Brass Extruder Printer Nozzle for 1.75mm 3D Printer Makerbot Creality CR-10 (0.2mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZ1BFDR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yDzXDbH9KKSRG

This is the exact one I used - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LO3HKK4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_HTTXDbRE2G7X6

If you take your time, you can remove the old one and install the new one without having to take the case apart. There are youtube videos for the process floating around somewhere

Damn, its too early for me... You are right.

5 replacement blocks for $7 can be had here: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Aluminum-Specialized-Printer-Extruder/dp/B01G1JWKQK/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493047726&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=mk10+heating+block

I recommend the M3 Thermistor upgrade when you do it.

I just ordered this one for mine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDL4NKM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

This is my favorite nozzle for Wanhao -
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-HW-NOZ-MK10-04-Plated-Resistant-Nozzles/dp/B01BDL4NKM/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DDCZV1Y9Q7PXDZKTPBR9

I tried the All metal hotend, and couldn’t get it to work. For some reason the cold end wasn’t cold enough and clogging was continuous. I went back to the teflon tube and this nozzle and it’s been spectacular. Simple, and it just works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB1R72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EfrAB5eYaIIKi

I ordered this nozzle set from Amazon and it's worked pretty well for me.

I recently had this problem. I used a heat gun on the tube to warm it up and get it out. However if your not VERY careful you melt the liner as well. You can order replacements from amazon

I did this one

I am already running this but have not yet recieved this
EDIT: I just saw the Microswiss extruder plate. I have not purchased that. If you have it, do you recommend it?

Thanks for the video.

I have no idea to be honest. I got a 20 pack from Amazon. Lucky me just looked up what I bought and a lot of bad reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-0-4mm-Extruder-Creality/dp/B07B92TDVH/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ender+3+nozzle&qid=1569463771&sr=8-12

Yes, my printer was working perfectly before, but I think I've found the problem:

I disassembled the lever and and extruder plate to see if there was something else I could clean or assess for damage. There were some globs of burnt plastic under the gear, but that wasn't the problem I found. The idler bearing was not moving. I took a piece of filament and inserted it between the gear and idler and let the lever down and manually pushed the filament through. I saw that the idler was not moving at all. however the extruder gear was gripping the filament well and turning like normal. I've ordered this microswiss drop in replacement for the lever. I also plan on printing this extruder plate to go along with the new lever, but that's besides the point. The new lever arrives tomorrow, so I'll keep you updated if it works or not.

​

Edit: You can also purchase a metal version of the extruder plate I linked, in case you're interested in it.

These say they're stainless: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GG1F006/

here's a good deal on a stock hotend
https://www.amazon.com/Aibecy-Extruder-Thermistor-Aluminum-Replacement/dp/B0718WYN5R/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=anet+a8+hotend&qid=1564320703&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and here's some replacement nozzle parts
https://www.amazon.com/PChero-Length-Extruder-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B06XDBWVP6/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=anet+a8+hotend&qid=1564320703&s=gateway&sr=8-30

I would definitely suggest getting nozzle parts, especially if you switch out filament types, you'll eventually get a clog you can't clear.

I already have saved money. The PSU I definitely have in my bin of power bricks. It might need a new end, but I think I can handle that. On the subject of the Arduino, well, Don't take my word for it.

And as for the extruder, hotend, and printbed, lets assume I get this $30 hotend from an article, that still leaves me $90 to get a printbed. I'll buy an extruder if I need to, but honestly it's just a stepper motor held in a bracket. I really don't see how that's hard to make.

Look, I'm not saying you don't know what your talking about. Anyone who has 14 3d printers didn't get them by accident. But I'm not looking for something that'll just work right out of the box. I want to make this myself for the same reasons someone might want to own a 1987 Jaguar XJ6, and for the same reasons I never wanted anyone to help me with my lego sets as a kid. I'm only doing this because I think it's fun, not because I have to. If I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it my way.