(Part 2) Best air tool parts & accessories according to redditors

for the lazy

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/inline-blow-gun/A-p8809055e

I can see how that might get in the way, so this might be better

https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-CoBlo-Coupler-Blow/dp/B07D2LP8ZC/ref=pd_bxgy_2/144-1465503-7701320?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D2LP8ZC&pd_rd_r=74bc03c6-5982-11e9-8b21-c1cc28e5a00b&pd_rd_w=Sx8Uh&pd_rd_wg=Bv3WQ&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=FRJDTM0RE7TEXRNV3ZS5&psc=1&refRID=FRJDTM0RE7TEXRNV3ZS5

probably not as much of a focused stream, but good enough for clearing shavings off a workpiece.

1. (Alpha)Looks like the cord reel (left of pic) he said he needed, because he didn't have enough outlets in the middle of the garage: https://i.imgur.com/6ANmiUe.png
   
2. (Bravo) They must do a lot of cooking there: https://i.imgur.com/08EKvuN.png
   
   Edit Alpha: or is it a air hose reel: looks like this or this
   
   Edit Edit: Alpha BINGO https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-50-Foot-8-Inch-Rewind-46875/dp/B010S8D8R0

Don't buy a kit! They sell you all kinds of shit you won't use when there are better options for similar money.

Get a brewing bucket as if you don't have a bottler then this will make your life so much better.

Get 2 carboys (glass is best but better bottles will work too). Check Craigslist for these...you can get some awesome deals.

Get 1 Refractomoeter instead of a hydrometer because they use WAY less of your must to calculate and they aren't mega fragile like hydrometers are.

You will want an auto siphon

You will want a carboy brush that fits on a cordless drill because cleaning a carboy without one fucking sucks (and for 18 bucks this is a no brainer).

You will need sanitizer. I personally like Iodophor because it's super cheap, it doesn't really foam up and it lasts forever. I bought one of THESE bottles like 2 years ago and it is about half full even though I brew between 50-100 gallons a year.

I always advocate people start with beer bottles rather than wine bottles. The reason for this has less to do with the bottles and more to do with equipment. The Ferrari Bottle Capper is 14 dollars while a good floor corker for wine bottles will set you back 60 bucks. In addition, it's cheaper to bottle in 20 ounce beer bottles with caps rather than in wine bottles with good corks. Use of a double lever corker for wine bottles should be considered a war crime...seriously...unless you're a masochist who loves dumping wine everywhere and having to clean it afterwards...then just avoid them...they are absolutely awful.

If you go the wine bottle route then NEVER use agglomerated or colmated corks (the ones made from tiny pieces of cork glued together) as they fall apart and will leave chunks in your bottles. In addition they don't age well, so you are much more likely to lose your brew to spoilage. I like synthetic Nomacorc but you can also buy very good quality solid natural corks as well.

Good oxygen absorbing bottle caps on the other hand are mega cheap. Again...this isn't about one being better than the other, so you can use either one.

For wine bottles, I REALLY like the ones with screw tops because they make it nice and easy to cap your bottles once opened. But for all of your bottles buy these locally...shipping will double or triple the cost of these vs buying locally. I get them for 15 bucks a case a few miles from my house...they're almost 30 a case on Amazon or close to that from Midwest or from Ohio (shipping is like 11-15 dollars a case.)

For beer bottles...I prefer clear, but they'll be tough to find locally so I often end up with brown ones. Again...buy these locally not online due to shipping costs. Your local brewing supply stores buy these pallets at a time so even Amazon can't compete with the lack of shipping costs.

Thank you. I have a sink in the basement, so I can do what you've described. That should save most of my plumbing. Great idea! I can add this air compressor fitting to make sure I get all the water out. The only pipe that might freeze is the one that feeds the house. That'll be a lot cheaper to replace than all my plumbing.
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B017CKUKHS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=air+compressor+to+hose&qid=1571693819&sr=8-4

The short answer is: It depends.

Any rim can be sealed off at the spoke holes with rim tape if you clean it thoroughly and use the right width of tape.

The tricky part is how well the tire will seat at the bead. Stan's Rims and Spank are two rim manufacturers that I know take extra care with this area (and I think simply use a slightly larger diameter at this critical point) so that tires will seal well without much latex milk being needed to help.

You can do a simple test on the cheap. Buy the 3M equivalent of Stan's expensive rim tape like this one and buy or borrow a tubeless valve like this one. Put your existing tire on without a tube, using just a little bit of soapy water. If it pops in and inflates, you're good to go.

Maybe someone has experience with your rim type. I swear by tubeless, and so far have tried on Stan's Flow and FlowEX, Spank Spike 35 and Oozy Trail 345, and a couple of sets of made in China carbon rims, and it has always worked well.

The much bigger issue IMO is the type of tire. Schwalbe was the company that started with the "tubeless ready" slogan, which I guess involves having a little more rubber on the bead to help with sealing, Conti used to be stupidly difficult but have also improved especially with the Apex sidewall, Maxxis always worked well. These are the ones I have personally tried.

1. I'd replace that plastic strip with actual tape. I'd recommend gorilla tape. Carefully apply it around the perimeter of the rim then poke a small hole for a valve stem to fit through. Leave room for the tire bead to fit around the inner wall of the rim.
   
   
2. Is your rim drilled for presta or schrader valves? If it's presta then buy a presta valve stem, or if it's drilled for schrader, then buy a schrader valve stem. Your alternative is to do "ghetto tubeless" by cutting the stem out of a tube and using that as a stem instead.
   
   
3. Get a pair of tubeless ready tires. If you are on a budget, I'd recommend these. They've never had a problem seating for me and are very good tires for the money on my 29er. If they have difficulty seating on your rim, try spraying the bead with soapy water. You must use compressed air to seat the bead.
   
   
4. Yes use sealant, I'd recommend Stan's. The bottle provides the amount recommended.

Playa Shower

Instead of using a standard solar shower which

• needs to be hung up above your head
  
• has an annoying valve that's difficult to use with one hand
  
  Use a Garden sprayer (one gallon is sufficient but two might be a bit better) with the misting sprayer replaced with a kitchen sink sprayer.
  
  To make this cut the sprayer itself off the garden sprayer hose.
  Use a 1/4 inch male MIP to 1/4 inch barb fitting to connect the two.
  
  You may or may not wish to use a solar shower bag for heating the water. Black pots and pans work as well or you can just heat a few cups of water to boiling on the stove and add it to a gallon of desert temperature water.
  
  With this I can take complete showers with less than one gallon of water (including washing and conditioning long hair) since I only use water explicitly where and when it's needed. If you want to be more efficient still, shower with a friend, since they can see and rinse your back with less water (or at least that's the excuse I use).
  
  Fountain Pump
  
  Use a small fountain pump to transfer your melt water from your cooler to whatever you're storing your shower water in. This is almost the only way of getting cooler water directly into a shower bag without spilling lots of it. You'll also need some 1/4" inside diameter hose but it's easiest to just buy 4 feet of that at home depot rather than buying a roll of it somewhere online.
  
  Electric
  
  My camp has a generator and a space for charging batteries. But I don't like leaving my chargers or devices out where they are going to be playafied. So I use a small 12v battery (8Ah is fine, I use 18Ah batteries because that's what I have) and either a small inverter or just use car chargers for all of my devices. Then I just have my 12v battery charger out in the open and most of those are designed for harsher environments and when that's charged I take it into my tent to charge my camera batteries and the like.

these things work great. You can set the timer for how long it opens and how often. We have them on all our compressors since people can't be bothered to drain them.

Clevis safety pin, or just safety pin http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/pins/safety.htm


http://www.amazon.com/Dixon-AKSP1-Fitting-Spring-Safety/dp/B006PABYIQ

I had the Meiser for a while, when it wore out I got the Topeak digital gauge because I ride road a lot and needed something with more range. I run my 2.6's at 16/18 but I'm also tubeless.

Nice setup but this.

For computer and other items that air flow important... [blow gun]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCHA3R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4UN7AbV904TYN

Air compressors with a water catch are your best friends! Canned air costs too much and blowing dust in your house with those little blowers just isn't worth the mess, just get a cheap air compressor, a water filter and boom, you're set forever with easy cleaning...


EDIT: A link to what I'm talking about for filtering out water from your air line when using an air compressor to clean your electronics. Unless your playing in 100% humidity and working your air compressor hard, these devices usually filter out all the water in the air line.

Probably not viable, but in an attempt to exhaust all options: Do you have access to an air compressor? If it was me, I'd try to use something like this to force high PSI air into the first driver pin hole that's visible, and attempt to force the two dropped pins back up though gaps in the key and cylinder while pulling gently outwards.

I've seen a few post about this. I'm brewing this Thursday a NEIPA that I plan on using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006O2DDDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. My plan is first to do experiments with an already tapped IPA to see how it taste.

It should go without saying that you need the right care and calibration tools to make your day to day listening the best. This is what I use for those purposes;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KR15HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AMSYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRJ9NAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAFG8EG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ERPWAK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GOOAEVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Of these things, the OnZow is probably the most important, along with the Studebaker record cleaner. If you buy used records a cleaner is a MUST, and even new out of the wrapper records have crap on them. The OnZow gets the junk off your needle, which is a must.

AFTER those things are taken care of, cart or preamp. Both have the most immediate effect on the sound, presuming you are playing quality good condition records.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089F6DXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417144393&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

screw the top of one of these with pliers or a screwdriver :
https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-Closed-Chuck-4-Inch/dp/B008PZ7L5O

Screw it into one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-MNPT-x-1-4-in-I-M-Steel-Plug-12224HOM/205330366

Insert a 7/32 socket into the bowl
And your done

You could continue with the theme and get him an air hose real that he can mount wherever and use like the extension chord one you got him like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GJ7NUYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493340180&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=air+hose+reel&dpPl=1&dpID=51tVwNX4T5L&ref=plSrch . Just make sure you get the reel, hose, and necessary fittings for everything. I'll keep looking to see what all is necessary. They are very handy. Edit-make sure it has a spring to retract itself automatically, tekton has one on amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010S8D8R0/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_469_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CVQNCK0W3H7PN6THGA77&dpPl=1&dpID=71Iq-JdNsbL they most always have good reviews on their tools, it looks like it comes with everything he'll need. This needs a hose that goes from the compressor to the reel but I'm assuming he already has one. Read reviews and whatnot because I do not have much experience with these.

I literally JUST read this! I can't believe I always thought it was air escaping the inner tube. Thanks!

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edit: Might pick this up https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Topeak-D2-SmartGauge/dp/B07J3Y54WT

Yoga blocks do jack all for isolation. The neoprene is ok, but the compound that actually isolates is sorbothane. I'd get sorbothane and maybe put some saran wrap(or anything really) around it so it doesn't stain. Try it out without it though, unlikely you'll need it. If you notice something then get speaker stands.

If you were placing things on top of your subwoofers then yeah definitely place sorbothane or some of this stuff. Also, I put foam tape where picture frames come in contact with my walls since the rattling becomes really distracting.

Tire pressure, when nitrogen is used with a 1/4" flare to tire schrader fitting

Like everyone else said about an oil and water trap. I would also add a connection to the bottom of your compressor to bleed off the water. You could set it to open for 5 seconds every half an hour or something that matches your requirements and then run a hose to a drain. It makes life a lot easier. Something like this

I also use a 6 gallon pancake air compressor; you can set the air pressure so it's not too high. That model doesn't come with a hose, so I bought this kit which also includes an attachment to hook it up to the pump basket. After I've lowered the water below the skimmers, I blow the lines and plug each jet/skimmer as bubbles blow from them.

My outdoor setup has a hose spigot attached, and I just hook this up to the hose spigot to blow it out.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017CKUKHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Hot Glue might have been a better choice, as they could have been melted off cleanly. Or even better? Grab a Wire Tube and throw wires into it, then drill square in wall and feed through to bottom. (Or run down back of tv mount). Problem solved.

Here's a low profile one

I got these pads for my front-loading washing machine which made a horrible racket. They helped quite a bit. Maybe worth a shot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6WT5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay I think I'll do one of these cork antivbirations.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6WT5O/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Ground > Gym Mats (eva rubber) > Cork/Rubber Pads > Rig

Reading reviews that people were using it for airc compressors, AC units, generators, subwoofers, etc.

I haven't used their reels, but their hoses are awesome. Definitely would buy.... If I had a compressor:/
link

It's going to be harder to break her of these habits now because they're so ingrained, but I don't think it's totally impossible, but it will take a lot of work.

When you catch her scratching something she shouldn't be, pick her up, bring her to the nearest scratching post, and move her paws on it in a scratching motion. She might have no idea what they're actually for, thus her continued indifference toward them. There are different coverings for the posts too, so it might help to try a few different ones and see if she prefers a carpet/rope/other fiber covering.

If she has certain places on the furniture that she scratches, you can try getting some of those scratching posts that hang off doors or drape over the arm of the couch and try to place them strategically. You might have to get creative, but it will also help teach her what surfaces are and are not appropriate to scratch.

Part of the problem might be too much energy that she can't burn off. If you're having trouble getting her to play, that means she's not getting enough exercise and she has to express that energy somehow. It's the same with dogs who chew on everything...often exercise helps a lot. Does she respond to a laser pointer? Is there a difference in her attention when you drag a string across the floor vs dangle it in the air? It took me a little while to figure out how to play with my cat because she's not good at following things in the air and she also seems to have little interest in conventional cat toys. Her favorite toy is an old sweatshirt pull. She doesn't seem interested with anything more elaborate...stuff on the end of a string doesn't interest her, she just wants the string. You might even have success by dragging a piece of old wire around in front of her (though I'm not sure if that would encourage her to go after cables more or not). If she'll tolerate it, try getting her in a harness and letting her explore outside on a leash. You don't need to train her to walk with you, but you can hold on to her while she pokes around.

I think in most office supply stores you can get plastic tubing specifically for cables. It might be worth it to get a bunch of this stuff and cover as much cabling that she is able to get to as you can.

You could possibly try softclaws, but I've always been hesitant after reading some concerning reviews about them not falling off when they should and having the nails grow around into the pad of the paw. If you do try them, keep a very close eye on your cat. Don't declaw her. Cats come with claws. If you want to have a cat, claws are things you need to be prepared to deal with.

If all else fails, you can always consult a cat behavioral professional. If nothing at all helps, you might have to come to terms with the fact that perhaps your particular situation isn't appropriate for your cat. Some cats need more space, need more social interaction and need more attention. I hope you are able to work things out!

Can you recommend any?
Will this barb & tubing be compatible?

-Barb:
http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Flate-21-123-Male-Hose-Fitting/dp/B000CFNVGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369779764&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4+barb


-Tubing:
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-SVEB20-Pre-Cut-Diameter-0-170-Inch/dp/B0046ECKWC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369779659&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4+inch+tubing

Okay, just to confirm; http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Flate-21-123-Male-Hose-Fitting/dp/B000CFNVGS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376790166&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+barb for the barb?

The chamber says it comes with (2) Brass Barb that Fits 1/4” ID Hose. I just want to make sure I'm getting absolutely all the right things I need to connect. It looks like the pump that I linked, a Yellow Jacket Ritchie 93560 has a 1/4" and 3/8" male flare intakes, so I think I would need something else.

I have 1-8, and I strongly believe they were all meant to be mixed together. The games are very fun this way, as each expansion builds off the previous.

You dont have to have a massive stack of cards. You can either set stacks aside and wait until you need them, or do like I did and get an 8 deck card shoe

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PABYIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4prQDb86MVS0R

I have one like this, too. It was inspired by DIY inflation but I haven't used caulk or anything permanent (yet).

The nipples I'm using don't entirely match up, so there is a bit of gapping depending on which way/order I stack them (turned inside-out or not, too).

Since I didn't fill them, they can collapse which reduces the holding power (depending on how much skin is between them).

Anyway, up until this week I have just had a catheter stuck in the end and used a binder clip to hold pressure (inflating by using my mouth). It works well enough but not when dressed (clothing pushes the catheter a bit which allows leakage). But it is lightweight and simple.

I had been envisioning your method for some time and decided to try it out. At first, I tried a Presta valve since there isn't a spring to push against and the inside pressure creates the seal. Well, the pressure I can create isn't enough to get the valve to seal well so it leaks. I have a valve stem so I tried that and it's much better.

I found out that inside-out or not matters due to the swirl ridges against the valve stem.

I am using a Schrader ball chuck on a quick connect and a hose (part of a catheter (the larger end that goes on a bag—perfect fit) and some random hose I stretched over the catheter). Side note: I don't think the hose needs to be special (food grade), just anything clean enough that I'm willing to put in my mouth. You can buy various size hoses by the foot at hardware stores.

Since I don't have caulk to support the nipple, it's easily deformed. When I put the ball chuck on, it needs pressure to both open the seal in it and push down the spring in the Schrader valve. I can't firmly hold the assembly because then there isn't a seal. Holding the valve stem is really difficult (normally, there is a tire/rim for resistance).

The ball chuck is heavier than I realized and with the hose, it's a fair bit to have in a pocket.

What do you recommend?

All right, yeah I found one for $10 less coupon without a hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/17-pc-air-tool-accessory-kit-64600.html

The reason is that it's almost certainly this one (see hose reviews):
https://www.amazon.com/WYNNsky-Compressor-Accessory-x25Ft-Nylon/dp/B06W2FW89L#customerReviews

Apparently HF has "remnants" from 8-15 feet. I'll check and find out:
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-x-8-ft-15-ft-rubber-air-hose-remnant-60356.html

You would need something like this

None of the AC clutches come off with a normal pulley puller or three-jaw puller (that I know of). They use a sleeve that threads into the center of the clutch, then a bolt that threads into the sleeve and bottoms on the arbor to push the assembly off.

Someone suggested a tool like this

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-COMPRESSOR-INSTALLER-CONDITIONING-SERVICE/dp/B00P33H35E

Update: I brewed Monday 19NOV. I used the Brewer's Best Kolsch kit. I could not find a good source for spruce tips so I used spruce essence. I added 2tsp spruce essence, 5oz grated ginger, and one whirfloc tablet during the last 15 min of boil. I'll move it to secondary in a few days.

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Presta-Universal-Carded-Mountain/dp/B004YIE294/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497667098&sr=8-1&keywords=stans+valves

An oil-free (diaphragm) compressor doesn't introduce oil. And the only water it would introduce is what's in the air to begin with. Generally the air will come out more dry than the water going in, because much of it condenses inside the compressor tank, lines, etc. as it cools.

And if you are concerned about oil or water (basically if you have a piston compressor), you can get devices to filter them both out — they are very common for people doing paint-gun work, where the oil would ruin the whole thing. The air won't be sterile or anything, but if it's good enough to paint with it probably won't contain a significant amount of oil.

If you're really concerned, though, companies sell filters that will take air from an industrial compressor, remove the oil and any air, run it through activated charcoal, and make it suitable for breathing in a supplied-air respirator. I've breathed air coming off an industrial rotary-vane compressor through something like this, and it was fine, not even any odor or anything. The filters are expensive, though, and it's probably overkill unless you're actually breathing it.

I have one and I love it. I've used it for a dozen or so batches and it aerates beautifully. You just need to be careful if you're using a plastic vessel so you don't hit the inside walls. If you do, you could scratch it and leave spots for bacteria to grow. My brew buddy liked mine enough that he bought one a week later.

As hh22lude mentions though, an O2 stone is another alternative that I'm still considering. It would be nice to drop it in the wort and let it do it's thing without me doing this manually. I'm having a hard time convincing myself since I already need a drill for my grain mill so the Mix-Stir is just one extra piece of gear that I already have.

If you do go the route of the Mix-Stir, you might also want to consider a Carboy Cleaner bit (http://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Express-Carboy-Cleaning-Carboys/dp/B005N1ZCMC). This helps tremendously with cleaning carboys and kegs if you use them.

Ah, the list of brewing toys are endless!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV1RLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UEB5xbM9P2MH6

These air hoses are amazing.