(Part 3) Best antiques & collectibles books according to redditors
We found 938 Reddit comments discussing the best antiques & collectibles books. We ranked the 416 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Perfect time to point this out
https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Recently-Deceased-Replica-Books/dp/1979711828/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538871144&sr=8-1&keywords=handbook+for+the+recently+deceased
Due to time and location, attending Appleseed is not possible as much as I'd to like to go. So I figured I'd try to find the next best thing and that's when I found the book “Gun Digest: Shooters Guide to Rifle Marksmanship”. From what I read this book covers just about everything at Appleseed and more. When reading the book I even found lots of mentions of Appleseed and the writer mentions how he's involved in the program. This book covers shooting with iron sights, positional shooting, sling supported shooting, etc. I spent a few months reading and practicing what was in the book and I was amazed at the progress I made. The book is a relatively easy read and packed with tons of pictures.
https://www.amazon.com/Digest-Shooters-Guide-Rifle-Marksmanship-ebook/dp/B00CA9DKCO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498609539&sr=8-2&keywords=Gun+digest+marksmanship
So today I decided to try out the Appleseed AQT test. I found a digital download of the 11x17 document and made a few prints and set it up at 25 yards. It turned out to be a lot more fun than expected. I planned on only doing one run but ended up doing three. Having a timer really adds a new level to shooting especially on the rapid fire courses. On the first run I pulled out a 222. The next I had a 243 and the last a 226. My best moment was the clean sweep on the final stage you see in the image.
The rifle I'm using is a Ruger 10/22 Altamont Classic V fitted with tech sights, USGI sling, and a Volquartssen target hammer. The 20” barrel provides for a really nice sight radius. I was using CCI Standard Velocity. I was shooting from a MidwayUSA shooting mat. Tip: Wear a long sleeve shirt and jeans! It helps with the sling on the arm and the jeans help when your elbows from slipping when shooting sitting.
No, it's not official. No, I didn't get a patch. But I learned a lot. This shows you if you aren't able to make it to an Appleseed it doesn't mean you can't still learn. I would suggest go to an Appleseed first but this is another option. Just because you can't go doesn't mean you have to give up.
My next challenge is to try this but with my Marlin 25mn, a beautiful bolt gun chambered in 22WMR but not nearly as accurate as my 10/22.
The Whitman Red Book, a price guide to US Coins.
Competitive Shooting by A.A. Yur'yev covers this in detail, but I have no idea where to recommend the book for cheap.
Gun Digest Shooter's Guide to Rifle Marksmanship.
I've also heard good things about Jeff Cooper's Art of the Rifle.
For assessing your progress, check out the NRA marksmanship qualification program. I'm currently working through the 4 position rifle sequence.
Both eyes.
My uncle was a firearms instructor and shot competitively. He taught me how to shoot after my father passed away. One day he noticed me squinting my left eye and said my father would have slapped me on the back of the head if he saw me doing that.
Shooting with one eye closed causes fatigue if you do it for very long. It will also cause you to lose visual acuity after a few seconds vs shooting with both eyes open. A.A. Yur'yev wrote a really good book with all sorts of awesome information like this in it. I like to reread it every few years or so as it seems I always pick up something new.
Here's a link if you're interested Competitive Shooting
Edit: Holy crap I never realized how expensive that book is.
Get a new wife... I kid I kid.
Get the Blue Book of Gun Values.
I'd keep (in no particular order)
Definitely get the blue book, before you even consider selling them. Convince your wife to take a firearms safety course and basic shooting course with you. Then get a gun safe and keep them at home; don't have someone install the safe. Be sure your home owner's insurance will cover what you've got, most home owners insurance only covers $500 worth of guns, jewelry and other things.
The stuff which you're not "allowed" to keep, you can sell on GunBroker.
I think it doesn't get better than The Mastery of Time. It's very beefy, and has everything you'd ever want to know about a lot of timepieces and a lot of technical innovations behind watchmaking.
I had to see if it existed...https://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Recently-Deceased-Replica-Books/dp/1979711828/ref=sr_1_2?crid=22GPEGSUP6UA6&keywords=handbook+for+the+recently+deceased&qid=1569271064&s=gateway&sprefix=handbook+for+the%2Caps%2C263&sr=8-2
...of course it does.
I didn't have the ISBN's handy for all of these it was easier to find Amazon links and a link to Rick Snow's site for the Indian books. These are the books on my bookshelf which aren't the common ones: (Some are hard to find.)
They're available in hardcover as well.
Pattern from http://www.amazon.com/Knitting-Mochimochi-Super-Cute-Strange-Amigurumi/dp/0823026647
Watch making as in buying premade parts and putting them together? If so I can recommend this book. For only $15 it gives pretty good details on how to do this and I will be trying it eventually.
If you mean making all the gears and whatnot by hand than that is a whole other story.
Depends on what you're interested in. Some people are really passionate about large cents, others love Morgan dollars, some like wheat pennies. The key is to find your niche. For me, its British coins and Standing Liberty quarters. There's plenty of references, some useful books would be:
The Cherry Picker's Guide Volume I
And Volume II
Lots of great info in those. The yellow book should be next on your list if you like gem pans.
Go back to Grandma's and make sure she doesn't have an 1893-S Morgan (or arm yourself with a Red book and do a quick lookup of all her coins.) It could be the difference between having some silver worth melt value and having a coin that you could trade for a nice used car!
Numismatics is the study or collection of currency, including coins, tokens, paper money, and related objects. Regardless of whether you’re a novice or an expert, the term numismatist still applies.
The important thing is to not overwhelm yourself and try to be an expert on everything. Learning how to research and educate yourself is probably the most important lesson to learn in the beginning. I would also recommend figuring out what you’re interested in collecting and focus on learning about that. Once you’ve done that, break it down further into manageable chunks, just like you’re doing with the Seated Liberty type.
I tend to focus on a single denomination at a time. I started with small cents, learning everything I could about varieties, grading, etc. When I want to switch it up, I choose a different denomination and start the process again. So if you’re interested in building a Seated Liberty type set, continue doing what you have been, focusing specifically on learning as much as you can about the type before the show.
If you don’t already have them, here are a few books I highly recommend picking up:
Official Red Book of United States Coins
Photograde
Grading Coins by Photographs
Cherrypickers’ Guide - Vol. I
Cherrypickers’ Guide - Vol. II
These aren’t meant to be read cover to cover, but I reference them constantly.
If you’re interested in focusing on Morgan’s at some point, I would also recommend this book:
The VAM Keys
Finally, when you’re considering a purchase, I go to eBay and filter by Completed and Sold auctions to get a sense of what kind of deal I’m getting. The market fluctuates frequently and although the Red Book is a very valuable reference guide, seeing what similar coins have sold for recently is a much more accurate representation of what a fair price is at that point.
Off the top of my head (might be missing a few things), you will need:
I'm probably missing one or two things. Similarly, you could also live without some of the stuff I mentioned, but you'll want most of that to do a decent job at it. You're looking at easily $500-$1000+ for the tools and jigs if you have to buy everything.
As for a guide, get this and this
Don't get into AK building because you want to do it on the cheap. Those days are gone. Get into AK building because you love AKs and want to build a lot of them.
I'll start with your last question. The coins were left to my brother and myself. He wants to cash out his half entirely. I'd personally love to hold on to many of the coins - although I will have to liquidate some. The idea is that we want a decent appraisal, so that we can divide the collection without just liquidating it all. It's kind of a sin to break up the half dollars though, the only ones missing are a 1794 and stuff past the 1940s. And most of them are in AU or better condition.
Most of the coins went to PCGS for your reason #2, there's a fairly big jump in value depending on the grade. The idea was that getting them slabbed would definitely increase the value more than the grading fees. Somehow I don't think a "PCGS Genuine - AU Cleaning" holder does that. In most cases, anyway- there were a few items that do fall into your category #1.
I've already picked up blue and red books. Is this the photograde that you recommend?
I always recommend The Mastery of Time as an intro to watches, watch making, and horology in general.
Lots of beautiful pictures and easy to read with a huge amount of references.
I made a mistake, it's 1942-1945 nickels that are silver. 1941 nickels are not silver. Even some 1942 nickels are not silver, the way to tell is if they have the mintmark on top of the building, [like this] (http://images.pcgs.com/CoinFacts/4180_37655255_2200.jpg). Also look for the 1950-D nickel, those are worth a few dollars. If you find any 1983 P or D quarters that are uncirculated, they could be worth about $30-$50, ones that are almost uncirculated maybe a couple bucks. Regular circulated 1983 quarters are just worth 25 cents.
A good idea would be to pick up a [Red Book] (https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Book-United-States-Coins/dp/0794845037). There is already one in your first picture, but it's from the 1990s so useless except as a curiosity to compare coin values to today. Keep in mind though that Red Book values are basically what you would pay at a coin shop, not what you would get at a coin shop if you were to sell. So you always have to consider you might only get 90% of that listed value for example. If you sell at /r/coins4sale or ebay, you will get more likely. In order to get a value from the Red Book, you have to grade the coins. A good way to do that is [Photo Grade] (https://www.pcgs.com/Photograde/), a free website where you compare your coin to an example of a certain grade.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apn-kYEl-Xw - PCGS grading webinar 101. There is a 102 and 103 that are very good and worth watching. I found this very helpful for the basics.
http://www.amazon.com/Official-Guide-Grading-Counterfeit-Detection/dp/0375720502/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457635266&sr=8-1&keywords=coin+grading+and+counterfeit+detection - I bought this book and found it helpful too.
Beyond good resources like that, all you can do it maybe take the ANA seminar or look at lots and lots of coins. Go to a coin show and just look at graded Mercs.
In my experience, which is <5 years, each series grades differently enough that you have to look at a lot of the coins from that series to be able to grade within half a grade on average. The smaller the coin the harder it is to grade since smaller marks become grade limiting. I can grade dollars and other series I collect fairly competently, but I feel like I suck at Mercury Dimes in comparison.
>seeing as there is a lack of a 'blue book for guns'
Or is there...
The Gourmet Guide to Cigars https://www.amazon.com/dp/0962704601/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAKOzb60JVJ3T
It's an interesting piece. Would you mind if I posted your pics elsewhere? I have a few specialty sites that may be able to shed light.
The books in question: Red Book. Blue Book. and if you are super into muffin pans by Griswold, the Yellow Book.
I'll echo others here, but I think it depends on what you'd like to collect. If you don't want to spend much money right now, especially if you haven't decided on what specific things you like, then searching coins from circulation - rolls from the bank, etc. - is a good way to get started (since all you spend is the face value of the coins you keep), but you may need to search a LOT of rolls before you find anything interesting. For example, I searched over $200 in half dollar rolls a few months ago - found no silver, but did find one proof that had escaped into circulation. I mentioned to the tellers that I knew what I was looking for, and they replied "so do we." Ah.
If you want to purchase coins, going to a local coin store, or meeting dealers at a show, is good, as they can help guide you to making a good purchase. If you start to specialize in particular areas, dealers can even keep an eye out for you, and put things aside. You might want to specialize in a particular series (e.g., a date run of Lincoln cents), or from a particular country, or with certain symbology (pics of animals, ships, etc.) or time period (e.g., Roman Empire - $40 will get you a nice coin that is 1700+ years old, for example - a lot of new collectors think that something that is old must be valuable/only in a museum, which isn't the case).
eBay and general Internet sites can be a good source for coins, but unless you are buying coins certified by reputable companies (PCGS, NGC predominately), from dealers that offer returns, I'd not suggest doing things this way if you are just starting out. Even if photos are decent, coins can be cleaned or otherwise impaired (so are worth less than they appear to be - you might overpay, maybe significantly, without realizing), and in one instance I had, an outright forgery (which I figured out after paying, but before it shipped, so was able to get my money back). Once you get more familiar with coins and what's out there, reasonable prices, and such, then eBay in particular can be a very good place to find things. For example, I've been collecting schillings of the Free City of Riga for a while (1563-1580). It is a very very specific collecting interest, and you just can't find them other than via eBay (out of several 100+ table shows, and multiple visits to half a dozen coin stores in driving distance, I found exactly one, but have purchased over 170 via eBay) - apparently metal detectorists in the area are finding them and selling them that way.
Lastly, I'd recommend picking up a few books so you know what is out there - what to look for and what things are worth. For one, if you are collecting US coins, the Redbook is very useful to know what is out there. If you are searching rolls, the Cherrypicker's Guide vol 1, vol 2 is handy to know what particular things to look for. The Redbook will tell you which dates are more rare/desirable, and the Cherrypicker's Guide will do the same for varieties. If you want to collect world coins, the Standard Catalog of World Coins volumes are very handy. There is one volume per century, starting in 1600. They are a bit pricey, but if you have a pile of coins that need identification, are very useful. You might be able to find these in a library, but having your own copi
Hope it helps!
Not that I know of. I got it from this book. I also bought this one. I think the projects in the second book are a lot cuter.
EDIT: FOUND IT!
Fjestad's Blue Book.
Keep in mind, these are national averages. The values are a bit higher than my local area but it can give you a ball park.
Not cheap, but you can look at Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide
Edit: Book Review by aBlogToWatch
The cheapest item on my wishlist currently are (I used to have cheaper things, but some very nice people got those things for me) these bookmarks. It's on my wishlist, one, because I read a lot of books, some at the same time as others, and have no real bookmarks (I'm using a Cici's breadsticks coupon and an old hotel key card), and two, because Audubon's images were fairly present in my childhood. My mother has an enormous copy of his Carolina Parrot, among others. So I'm rather fond of his work.
My favorite pokemon is Arcanine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0794841805?pc_redir=1411127300&amp;robot_redir=1 this is the book I always have on hand when I roll hunt to look for key dates.
Is this the book you were talking about? I put it on my Christmas list either way. Definitely looks like it will be helpful. Thanks for the recommendation.
red book
blue book
yellow book (griswold gem pans)
grey book (early gate marked stuff)
these are about the best we have at the moment... the red book and blue book cover a lot, but obviously not everything.. and they are a bit dated as far as their pricing goes... but good sources of info.. .lots of pictures.
For those unaware, PG is the author of a moderately influential book, The Gourmet Guide to Cigars -
https://www.amazon.com/Gourmet-Guide-Cigars-Paul-Garmirian/dp/0962704601
He's also had some very unflattering things to say about the current state of the boutique cigar industry:
http://dailycaller.com/2012/09/17/cigar-hunter-paul-garmirian-the-calm-contrarian-part-1/
Apparently that book is worth a fortune now ಠ_ಠ
The Paul Garmirian Gourmet Guide To Cigars isn't bad, but it was first written over a decade ago and even with updates, is fairly dated. It should give you a decent overview.
Stay away from Cigar Aficionado, it's absolute shit for learning about cigars. As a second rate Robb Report it's not bad. In fact most ratings in the trade magazines should be ignored completely.
Just smoke cigars, and talk to people. Don't be afraid to have an opinion, or to not have one at all on a particular cigar.
Can't beat $1.50 bookmarks!
Totally! A great book is called cherrypicker’s guide vol 2 it is full of useful errors. Finding an FS-101 for the 1976-D Bicentennial Quarter would be awesome!
Welcome! Given the difficulty of this endeavor, many of us welcome help, fresh perspectives, and new skillsets. I'm afraid that becoming familiar with, and making progress with the Cicada3301 puzzle will require a great deal of reading, with many of the resources being in English.
As /u/Matt_RK900 mentioned, this video by LEMMiNO is a great starting place. Not only will it describe the journey on which the puzzle has taken us, but it will most likely instill a profound interest in the puzzle. These four videos by Great Big Story will paint a more detailed picture of what has gone into the progress of this puzzle as well as summarizing the current status.
As /u/jerry_b_o_o said, the book Liber Primus is a vital resource which requires a great many more skills than a grasp on the English language. While many of the translated pages thus far have been in English, there are mathematical puzzles as well as yet-undeciphered puzzles that may not be based in English. For example, there are clues and references throughout the pages that involve image-analysis. Along with a physical copy of the book, I would suggest downloading the pages for various forms of analysis that can be done with a computer.
Please read the wiki mentioned in the side-bar and feel free to ask questions. Cheers!
Warning: it's not cheap. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Moonwatch-Only-Ultimate-Omega-Speedmaster/dp/2940506035 (look around, this price is higher than the high price that I paid)
Main website here: http://www.moonwatchonly.com
Book review here: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/moonwatch-only-ultimate-omega-speedmaster-guide-book-review/
Get a Red Book. It will show you which coins have potential beyond melt value. But don't rely on the prices in that book -- they're typically high retail.
Thanks brotha! I hope others get into the hobby. It would be AWESOME to see other redditors posting what they MADE and not just BOUGHT! I grew up in a lower middle class family, and my father always instilled in me to build things rather than buy them to save money, or fix things myself rather than pay someone to do the work I could do if I took a little bit of time to educate myself and learn. Also, buy this damn book: https://www.amazon.com/Beginner-Watchmaking-Build-First-Watch-ebook/dp/B004GNFJ4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493833543&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=watchmaking
This book is an amazing read. It is simple. It explains things incredibly well. I have read it so many times and every little time my eyes open up to something I was confused on with a watch I was working on or something. It's dope.
For error/variety collecting, I'd recommend the following:
Jeweler's loupe: 15x in my mind should be fine for most major varieties and errors.
Lamp: I like a small, flexible desk lamp kind like the Ikea Jansjo.
Gloves: optional. only really necessary if you are working with high-value coins. Since most error/variety collecting comes from bank rolls, bags, etc. and has generally circulated, I don't see much of a point in gloves. In addition, gloves decrease your sense of grip which can actually lead to dropping coins MORE often.
Books: books are gear, too. I'd recommend the cherrypicker's guide. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OAZJY0/ref=rdr_kindle_ext_tmb
Here you go :)
If she does a lot of work with children this is awesome and so is this or basically anything in the 20 to make series.
Edited to add: you might also try asking over in r/knitting for ideas.
His amazone page for Liber Primus
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Liber-Primus-Antonio-Kowatsch/dp/1987441265
Next time instead of asking simple questions and hoping for simple answers from this pit, I'll just buy this https://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-AK-Vol-ebook/dp/B00J614CI0