(Part 3) Best art paints according to redditors

here ya go

Ok it seems like a lot of people are interested in how I did it. I used acrylic model paints except for the white base coat.

• I first washed Rein in soap and water because I Googled how to do this and that was the first step recommended by a couple people. I don’t know if it actually did anything but I knew it wouldn’t hurt to try.
  
  
• I used some white Krylon spray paint/primer for the base coat/whites. The label said the specific kind worked on plastic. Did a few coats of this.
  
  
• Next was the gold. The brand is “Model Master” which I picked up at an Ace Hardware by the model train sections, (the silver is the same brand.) I had to put on a few coats of this as well. There might be better stuff to use out there, I actually started using another brand of model paint but it was too thick/clunky.
  
  
• The brand of paint for the teal was “Citadel” which they sell at gamesworkshop.com. The color was “Skink Blue” but I mixed in a tad of yellow and white to make it a little more teal. Couple coats of this.
  
  
• The black and yellow are Vallejo paints, another model paint brand I had left over from something else I did.
  
  
• I found some glow-in-the-dark blue paint on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNEXCG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  It paints on mostly clear which is why the other blue coat was necessary. The stuff works really good if you set the figure up in direct sunlight for a little bit before putting him in the dark.
  
  
• I did the “08” on his shoulder pad with a really skinny brush and some black paint. I had to touch it up a little bit with a ZIG 005 pen.
  
  
• I used regular white acrylic paint to touch up any areas that should have been white that got paint splattered on there.
  
  
• Once I was satisfied with the paint job I sprayed a few layers of clear acrylic on it to protect the paint.
  
  • The most challenging part was the armpits/area under his shoulder pads. There are a lot of little details in there and it was hard to reach.

I guess they had to do something with it because it looked extremely odd during her entrance the way it was.

But I don't like at all what they've done with it, it really looks like a goddamn toy now. Some [UV-reactive paint] (https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-UV-Reactive-Blacklight-Paint/dp/B00BD4UZ9I) would've been enough for me.

To expand on Utgartha's info.

1. Zap-A-Gap super glue is generally what I see most people using and what I use personally. You can purchase an X-Acto knife set for pretty cheap, commonly recommended is just a basic handle and a bunch of #11 blades, also what I use. Gap filling, probably not going to be a big concern for you at first, but super glue is a good gap filler if you do find the need to fill any gaps.
   
   
2. Primer, Rustoleum Ultra Cover Black and White primer is a good readily available primer that you can pickup at walmart or any local big box stores pretty much.
   
   
3. Vallejo, P3 and Reaper all offer paint "sets" that will give you a good start, this little Vallejo set gives you a good selection of colors to start out with. Alternatively, P3 offers paint theme sets, I've always found them confusing though, Reaper also has paint sets, they have two sets out now that includes an array of colors here and here.
   
   As for brushes, this is a difficult topic, synthetic brushes are really crappy, they will wear out within only a few weeks of use, synthetic brushes are typically what you get from most hobby brands, Vallejo, Army Painter etc. Right now Rosemary & Co is the cheapest way to get decent sable brushes, which are long lasting and hold their tip, eventually though you'll want to upgrade to Raphael or Winsor and Newton brushes, I would recommend a #1 and #2/0 also known as #00.
   
   As for a light source, you want something with a daylight bulb preferably, I use something like this but much much cheaper, you can find them at local furniture stores or WalMart.
   
   And lastly, r/minipainting is here to help, if you have any questions or need any help, just ask away, lots of helpful and kind people here and there are some tutorial resources on the side bar over there ---->

I've really enjoyed using Golden Open acrylics lately. Golden has a great reputation for their acrylic and their open line is made to stay wet longer. One of the big issues some people have with acrylic is how quickly it dries making it difficult to mix on the panel/canvas. The open acrylics stay wet for hours.

[Golden Open Acrylic Medium - Matte 8 oz Bottle] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XMFF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8f1hAbGFWZGN4)

Sure thing. Seems like the fading is unavoidable and getting it back to normal requires some DIY coloring. Here is what he said:

"Yes, unfortunately over time the color will fade a bit, as it is just a thin layer of airbrushed silicone on the surface.


You can "rejuvenate" the surface color yourself. The easiest way to touch up the paint is to buy this silicone glue


https://www.smooth-on.com/products/sil-poxy/


and then some silicone pigment like


https://www.amazon.com/Silc-Pig-Silicone-Pigment-9-Pack-Sampler/dp/B005ZH0SFU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1512237562&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=silc-pig&psc=1&smid=A19NVE4G6SOT2C


and then take a small dolop of the silicone glue and mix in a tiny amount of the silicone pigment. then take just tiniest amount of the mixture and rub it into the surface of the EZP. This won't really work very well for doing things like the veins, but it will allow you to rejuvenate the slight redness of the tip etc. with a lot of skill you can also get the veins back in, but it's super easy to use too much of the silicone glue which will leave really shiny patches, so I don't recommend trying to touch up the veins.


You'll notice the glue smells like vinegar, but don't worry, this smell disappears as soon as the glue is set and it is totally skin safe."

If a near by place sells it, get a small set of [12 acrylics] (http://www.amazon.com/Reeves-Acrylic-Paints-Assorted-Color/dp/B00251IKQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375862560&sr=8-1&keywords=12+acrylic), a small starter set of [paint brushes] (http://www.amazon.com/Princeton-Series-Brown-Handled-Brush/dp/B000H431OQ/ref=pd_sim_hg_54) and some small [canvas panels] (http://www.amazon.com/Canvas-panels-inch-pack-12/dp/B00251AWQ4/ref=pd_sim_hg_22) or a [deeper canvas] (http://www.amazon.com/Fredrix-5031-Stretched-Canvas-36-Inch/dp/B000Y3EST2/ref=pd_sim_ac_82) if you wish to hang them up . be sure to price check these near by, as a place near me sells canvases at a almost a third of that price

I personally found acrylics easier to get into. you can water them down to get a watercolor feel, or keep them thick for more of an oil's feel and are much more satisfying and easier to pick up then colored pencils. They also dry quickly. Then just get some cheap plastic plates to use for a pallet and set up anywhere you have space.

Price History

• Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint in Assorted Colors (2 oz), 20595,   ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
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  These prices aren't just Black and White.
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I bought a Synth too, but haven't used it yet - not pictured here, but the stem could definitely use work (hoping the Synth will help with that).

Honestly, I do a lot of DIY stuff and usually don't have trouble finding tutorials that I can halfway-decently follow (usually thanks to good posters). Unfortunately, that hasn't been the case for keycap molding/casting - it's pretty hard to find detailed/informative guides out there.

The best resource I've found isn't keycap related at all, it's this YouTube series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6q0fd3ileWLwTQ6pOUb8isS4BYLjkNhH

Let me know what you think!

As far as the resin goes, I read a post somewhere that said it's best to get it from a distributor because the majority of stuff on Amazon is bunk... That being said, I'm an Amazon fiend and just wanted enough material to get started.

I bought this set for the mold and resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QCHVC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this for coloring the resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZH0SFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure neither are the optimal choice, but they should be enough to get you started. From what I've gathered, information/secrets are held pretty close to the chest around here... So if you learn anything during your exploratory process, help a brother out! I'll try to do the same if you have any questions. :)

Good luck!

try vallejo paints, for metallics the "Air" series is really good, and they just came out with a specialty line too

http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Metallic-Colors-17ml-Set/dp/B005D82OLM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462626101&sr=8-5&keywords=vallejo+metallic+paints

http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Metallic-Model-Paint-16-Pack/dp/B001G6NH1G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462626101&sr=8-7&keywords=vallejo+metallic+paints

One looks like this. Another one looks like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUDHTA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FuYsxbK15HEV2

Here is the type I used on it. You do have to thin it out as you normally would as if you used the Tamiya acrylic paints. The two downsides I found about using it was a PITA to clean out of my airbrush b/c I used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean it out (which apparently is a no go) and it scratches easily so I had to redo a few pieces. The gunpla in the pic is the PG version and it took me 3 bottles to cover the white pieces.

Add one of these and you're cleaning like a lazy pro.

creepy, same wavelength lol.

This is on the way lol

Thank you so much! That means a lot to me!
This is actually all digital, done in procreate on the iPad Pro:
I built a custom tones paper texture, and I use a combination of the “technical pen” brush and the “finepoint pen” brush for the line work. For the washes I use different combinations of the “water” brushes on an overlay layer at 50% opacity

When I do this sort of thing on paper I use these pens:

Sakura Pigma 30062 Micron Blister Card Ink Pen Set, Black, Ass't Point Sizes 6CT Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G8G8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A5QVBb8MPA212

This would probably be a good paper to use:

Strathmore 462-309 400 Series Toned Gray Mixed Media Pad, 9"x12" Glue Bound, 15 Sheets per Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRKKVW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_58QVBbV9FC2C6

And these kinds of inks:

Daler-Rowney F.W. Acrylic Ink 1 oz Bottle - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O7G1FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c6QVBbFM5P9ZB

To get really opaque whites for highlights over other ink you can also use some gauche:

M. Graham 2-Ounce Tube Gouache Paint, Titanium White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00133USQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J7QVBb7DJ3RMC

I struggle with this too. My brother, who has an MFA in art, gave me a pocket color wheel and it has really helped me understand what colors go with each other. Then I stand around in the quilt shop with my color wheel like a crazy person picking out fabrics. It plots out color combinations that I normally wouldn't think go well together, because my eyes just aren't built that way!

http://www.amazon.com/Color-Wheel-Small-Mixing-Guide/dp/B002V5AZQ6/ref=pd_sim_ac_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=02ECKK0ZASK3CK2W9QGD

Just realized I forgot to log in on this one. Oops!

Anyway. I think I've selected some stuff.

Golden Professional 6 Piece Set

Golden Artists Colors Classic Theory Color Mixing

And these brushes, just because the ones she has are all the same size and look pathetic


The last thing I was thinking of getting was a palette. Is there any general recommendation on wet vs dry? I personally can't see a disadvantage with the idea of a palette that keeps the paint wet for you...but that's probably just the engineer in me.

Currently she uses cling wrap, so I feel like this is a good option.

Depending on how much an easel would cost she's currently using our coffee table. She's very careful, but, all the same, I feel like something better than a coffee table has to be nice?

Thanks for all the help thus far : )

Golden Open Acrylics are great - really strong pigment and slow-drying so you can continue blending colors and your palette won't dry out. They're recommended in some starter guides to alters. They're not super cheap, but the pigments are strong so a tube will last a long time.

One caution - some colors are better for color mixing than others. I got the "Landscape Colors" set and had a hard time mixing colors to match original art. Everything comes out muddy and grey. I'd suggest you get the Color Mixing Modern Theory set. It has the pigments they use as a foundation to get all the other colors.

Do you have a specific budget? The following brands have always been good for me. These are all acrylic paints:




* Golden (duh...this is the creme de la creme of acrylics. I've only used their fluids but they're most well known for their heavy body.) This set is a solid option, but this is even better





* Galería (best student grade I've worked with) This kit includes paint, brushes, and canvas paper and so may be an ideal option for a beginner.





* DecoArt 1-Ounce Traditions Acrylic Palette Sampler -- great professional grade paint for the price and a solid color selection and two mediums -- one which slows the dry time and a glaze.





Finally, although they aren't my preference, many people ADORE Liquitex Basics and it is used by even professional artists. With that in mind the Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint-It! Kit provides a great color selection with a larger white tube (definitely needed, I go through white like crazy, most artists do), paint brushes, a palette knife, a palette, and a canvas board. This is definitely a solid option and really a bargain.





I paint almost exclusively with round and filbert brushes (I like Royal & Langnickel's Zen line), but a good, low cost variety pack with flats, filbert and round would be a good option.

Actually, it wasn't that bad. Unless you're painting HUGE sections of leather, the bottles will last a long time. I ordered this set from Amazon.

Unfortunately, my Canadian counterpart isn't as great a deal. Individual 1oz bottles are $20 apiece, on Amazon at least.

Acrylic paint set, a balanced range of twelve colors for use on paper, canvas, glass or wood or any other creative platform.Acrylic Paint

Are you currently trying to set your inner artist free? Soul Art Studio are here to save the day with this Twelve high quality acrylic paint set. The ideal art set for kids, beginners or skilled artists. We are a family managed business and never bargain on the quality of our item. - Art Supplies

If you want to have a go at making your own white wash try to get hold of some FW white ink and some acrylic medium. Dilute the ink with the medium and you'll have a white wash, just be aware that it's a lot less forgiving than normal washes, and chances are it won't save you much time as you'll still need to do a lot of layering/glazing.

#1. Happy Cake Day!

#3. Book

#4. Eating Utensil

#5. Animal

#6. Purple

#7. A Game..all about the poker

#8. A Guilty Pleasure...I hate that I love her

#9. A Tool

#10. Something from my childhood...oh man is it

#11. An organizational item...a stretch but what/who's more organized than ants?!

#12. Hobby

#13. Nerdy/Geeky

#14. Something Natural

#15. Green

#16. Something I wear

#17. Funny

#19. Gardening

#20

Bonus

Thanks for this fun Contest!

I didn’t use this exact one, but this is pretty much the same deal

You essentially just mix one part fabric medium into two parts paint and paint as usual.

https://smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-Black-Metal-Paint-17ml/dp/B002U3AX9S?sa-no-redirect=1

Vallejo has a metallic black. It is a bit bright though it definitely reads as black, but if you layer the nuln oil, it should come down a bit.

There are a couple of ways to tackle this. The easiest would be getting the Vallejo Black Metal paint.

You can also shade with multiple coats of Nuln Oil Gloss and highlight with either Ironbreaker or Runefang Steel but I would advise against this if you are going to be drybrushing - it will be easy to ruin the effect.

Another, more tricky option to consider would be doing a zenithal highlight with a Leadbelcher Spray over a Chaos Black Spray. From the Warp has a great article on this technique.

I would start off with a Color Wheel

Testors Enamel Paint, Gloss Red, 1/4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035LHENW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1ZBNAbFDC139K

Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint in Assorted Colors (2 oz), 20595, Concord Grape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00889ZAYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8-5WDbQHB8HZ6

Acrylic medium

Another

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052SR8OQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_fw5HzbCS2BT23
You can also buy part of the set at a time. The linked set (part 2) has the flesh tones.

They have a metallic set: Vallejo Metallic Colors, 17ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005D82OLM

Here is the dyes I recommend

So Strong Dyes

You can get more solid colors by mixing with an opaque dye like the white in smooth-on's "so strong" dyes for a base color.

I'm sure you could figure something out with spray paint and careful masking.

I've been looking for a mother of pearl (Nacre) finish for a while. One of the old GW painting manuals (John Blanche's I think) made reference to one model where he had borrowed a small amount of his friend's very expensive Nacre paint and i have wanted some for the last 25 years.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aztek-Airbrushable-Pearl-Acrylic-2oz-White/dp/B007TUDHTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423753485&sr=8-1&keywords=Testors+Aztek+Airbrushable+Pearl+White+Acrylic

I can't promise this is what either of us want as I haven't bought any yet, but it might be worth a look if only to see if the makers make something closer to what you are looking for.

Let us help him

http://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Glow-Paint-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B00BNEXCG6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00263ZGUI?pc_redir=1411222832&robot_redir=1

You should be able to find a full explanation in the reviews on this page.