Best automotive air filters & accessories according to redditors

Just FYI you can fit these filters on almost any car for less than 20 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

(And they are pretty common in cars of that price range anyways, it's just typically not being marketed as "bioweapon defence".)

Spark plugs diy: https://youtu.be/-SelzJ5YUTA

Cabin and Air filter diy: https://youtu.be/saf1K5_ne18

Cabin filter you need ($8) :
EPAuto CPJ6X (KD45-61-J6X) Replacement for Mazda Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWV2W5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D5qhDbW5XVH0V

Air filter you need ($15):
ECOGARD XA6280 Premium Engine Air Filter Fits Mazda 3, CX-5, 6, 3 Sport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8IP28G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6qhDbKWRM26A

Spark plugs you need ($40):
NGK 94124 ILKAR7L11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DMFGYRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7qhDbM7RD9W0

This is a common choice.

Seems to be one of the first mods a lot of owners do.

Buy a catch can ASAP. If you're 100% set on buying the SP, order a Billet Technology one now (if you want that brand, fantastic quality) as the delivery time is insane. I ordered mine the day before I took delivery of my SP and it took over ten weeks to get it.

Buy a replacement air filter, I'd suggest the K&N (only because I have it, there are plenty of dry ones you can get as well) just a piece of mind thing. It has a rebate right now so you can pick it up for $34 which is awesome.

I would also suggest to swap out the brake pads if you know how. The stock brembos are great but they are noisy (they squeal before they are heated up) and create a TON of dust. I'd suggest PowerStop Z23/Z26. I personally went with the Z23s, seems silly as your pads will be new but you'll thank me later. The lack of dust is incredible and they stay super touchy.

Are you planning to order your SP? I'd highly suggest the Plus Group and I'd even consider the adaptive suspension. (though I've never used it or experienced it I think it would be neat) The dynamics package isn't really that important unless you're planning to track the car (the 4 piston brembos stop the car on a dime) and you can stick a 275 on the stock rims.

I think DSG paddle replacement is worth it, especially the real ones (not the stick ons). Those racing lines look nice. I love my S2T Performance ones.

Drop in air filter and removal of the snow grate. SLIGHTLY more intake/turbo noises and for $60 you're getting roughly the same air flow "performance" as $300-$600 aftermarket intakes.

Tires. PS4S for Summer, RE71r for track/autocross, Alpin PA4 for winter.

Wheels 18" Konig Flow Form Wheels (i have the Rennform) are around 18lbs, which save a good bit of unsprung mass. I rock my Pretorias in the summer, and switch to my Konig's with the RE71r's for autocross/track.

I also just got the ECS subframe mount insert but haven't installed it yet.

​

Edit: And OBDEleven. Throttle Response Mod, Soundaktor to 0, windows up/down with remote

Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free, but pointless without a high-flow air filter)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($41 from Amazon)
  
• add an FSWERKS polyurethane insert to the rear motor mount ($13 from Amazon)
  
• lunchbox delete (ie. remove the muffler, costs about $20-25 to extend and redirect the exhaust pipe)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and possibly do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).

An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.

Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.

Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).

The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.

So it is actually a 3 part ordeal.

The actual fog lights since my car didn't come with them, and the stalk. Then I did some c-shaped drl since I have leds in my high beams and the factory drl doesn't work with leds, but then the c-shaped drl didn't work for a little bit so I bought the drl turn signals, and then the previous c-shaped ones started working again. I will just post all of my mods below:

Fog lamps with brackets : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL8DPWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Light stalk : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWO7XOK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

C-shaped DRL : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014P7LPEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sequential LED Turn signals with DRL : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/5veD22k

9005 LED High Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075J9S4DT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

H11 55W HID Low Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMKT2F4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 7443 LED Brake/Tail Light : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTKLF32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 LED Turn Signal (rear) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8RZRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED License plate/used as side markers in the front/a couple other places : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT23WVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED side marker bulbs (not used but the correct ones if you want yellow, I liked the white and it was what I had when the originals burnt out but didn't ever change them from the above link) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KY7GCXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

License plate smoke : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LICQ9M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Grille : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254096211721

K&N 33-2480 Air Filter : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR9WVPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VfS6CbNBD59AQ

I had my rims done by a local company, they are the factory 16" painted gloss black. My mazda emblem is actually a long story, but essentially it is just scuffed up with sand paper ready to be painted but I liked the look and stuck it back on the way it is. I have also installed car play, and 3D printed a shift knob. The factory bose system was a little lacking and put a small under seat sub in to help fill the sound, but am still not happy with it, so that's a future project.

Some near future plans for the car include the aero kit, and I'll post the links to those here too:

Front Bumper Lip Air Dam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTUE8EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bdS6Cb2X8Y22M

Black Mirror caps : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283050942561

Side skirts : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391544070112

And the rear diffuser : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113007041503

> Cabin filter, people freak out over the price, but seriously most of that is the cost of the filter and the dealer doesn't set the price on that shit, corporate does.

People freak out because this is an exceptionally bad example of flat-rate gouging.

It'd be one thing if it was a 45 minute job and you charged an hour's labour to do it. But it's a 23 (US) dollar filter and 75 dollars of labour for what is literally a 5 minute install.

Here's also a list of the mods, how much, and where I got them.


Visual

Black rims $192.25x4 = $769
Window tint $180
Spoiler $100
Side Stripes $30

Tail light blackout $20

Sidemarker $15

Rear Decal: $50

345/Hemi Emblems black $34

Plasti-dip for Decals $6.00

Rock Guard $60

Engine

Air Filter+Recharge $63

Oil Catch Can $150

Other

Tazer+Bypass $300
Atturo Az850 275/40R20 $127.55x4 = $510

Mid-Muffler Delete $163

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365341&sr=8-3&keywords=green+filter

Seriously took 10 minutes to install!

The sound is...visceral, a growl and rumble, you can hear the engine suck in air with a whistle even.

Took me less than 5 minutes to switch out myself. I recommend this Mann-Filter FP 26 009 FreciousPlus Cabin Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URDQ27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yBv7Cb4TVSP6N

Cool thanks! I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542485078&sr=1-4&keywords=Bosch+hepa+cabin+air+filter
It seems that one should be able to filter the smoke

In order to actually clean the filter/cone, I recommend using something like the K&N filter recharge kit:

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jJOQAb7BZ4K73

Step 1: loosen the cone clamp and remove the cone/filter. You can use a hose to pre-clean as much of the gunk and debris as possible.

Note: you won’t really need to cover the exposed intake tubing, because your engine isn’t running or sucking in any air. You can cover it with a plastic bag and rubber band (or shove a towel in there) for peace of mind if you’d like.

Step 2: use the K&N detergent spray on both sides of the filter. I think the directions say to let it sit for a minute to do its thing.

Step 3: Rinse both inside and outside of the filter very thoroughly.

Step 4: drying - shake out as much water as you can from the filter cone. You can safely use a hair dryer on a low heat setting on both the inside and outside of the filter to speed up drying.

Bonus Tip: you can also use some compressed or canned air (like electronic duster) to force the moisture out of the nooks and crannies of the cone.

Step 5: once it’s dry, oil the filter cone with the included oil spray. Don’t saturate the filter, there is such a thing as too much of the oil.

Step 6: re-install your nice clean filter cone and re-clamp your cone.

EDIT: some words. I’ve got the CTS on mine as well, so I made the steps more specific.

2015 sedan 2.0 auto. Greater than 90% highway. 63 miles.

Edit:

link to product on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was approx 70 degrees today, i would expect it to be even higher in the summer.

Installing Racing beat axleback and a full set of Michelin CrossClimate + this weekend :)

Open ended oiled filter. Seen them in the $40 range on Amazon occasionally. Not much performance gain but the noise is good for miles of smiles.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+filter&qid=1555005232&s=gateway&sr=8-3

LOL $70. That is a 5 minute job and a $10 part (if you want to go cheap).

Would highly recommend the higher end Mann filter, Frecious Plus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URDQ27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even through the CA wildfire season last year I didn't smell it in my car much using that filter.

We do have a wiki here if you using "old" reddit (I have no idea how to access it with "new" reddit) where there are part numbers for DIY and links to cheapest resources I've found for those parts. https://old.reddit.com/r/GolfGTI/wiki/index

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

That's really really nice! I bet that will keep the filter staying a lot cleaner on top of lowering your temp a good amount. You could probably even get some insulation around that box to keep it cooler from engine temps. I like how water has room down below the intake to go if it gets in there. I'd still throw one of these on personally, just cheap insurance.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487785406&sr=8-1&keywords=green+filter

• You can adjust the brightness of the instruments and LCD display by turning one of the adjustment sticks (the right one) on the upper side of the instrument panel.
  
  
• You can change the width of the blind spot monitoring system.
  
  
• Enabling "Audio Pilot" turns on active noise cancelling.
  
  
• You can change how the automatic door lock mechanism works in the settings.
  
  
• You can turn on traffic camera warning in the navigation system settings.
  
  
• Turning on sport mode dramatically increases throttle response and holds gears at significantly higher RPM.
  
  
• A 3-minute super easy air filter change to the $50 K&N one can give you 1-2 better MPG and slightly better throttle response.
  

Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!

Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.


Fluids

• The 4.0 seems to love Shell Rotella 10W30 - either T (Conventional) or T6 (synthetic) its up to you and use a quality filter - Wix, NAPA Gold, Mopar, or Motorcraft FL-1A
  
• Drop transmission pan and change fluid and filter - ATF +4 only No additives or anything else. Adjust the bands and TV cable (link below for TV adj.)
  
• Drain and fill the transfer case - Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) and Command-Trac (NP231) get ATF +4 also. Quardra-drive (NP249) gets a special Mopar fluid
  
• Drain and fill both differentials - if you tow 75W140 full synthetic in rear 75W90 in front, otherwise 75W90 in both
  
• Drain and fill coolant. Zerex-G05 is now the OEM coolant, but you'll be fine with the old school green fluid. Also a good time to look over the condition of the rest of your cooling system. If you're running below 210 you're going to want to put a 195 thermostat in - running to cold causes tons of problems
  
• Siphon out your power steering fluid - either through the high pressure hose, or with a turkey baister. Use only Chrysler approved fluid not ATF. You'll need to burp the system after by turning your wheels lock to lock several times and topping of the fluid
  
• Bleed your brakes! These brake lines are prone to rust already, and brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and they will rust from the inside out. spray the bleeder screws with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a few days before you get started to free them up - Check your pads, shoes, drums, and rotors too!
  
  
  Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0
  
  
• Champion copper spark plugs
  
  
  
• Denso wires
  
  
  
• Accel distributor cap with brass contacts
  
  
  
• Accel Brass rotor
  
  
  
• Accel Ignition coil
  
  
  
• Bosch air filter any paper filter is fine though
  
  
  
• gates belt
  
  
  
• Clean the throttle body and IAC
  
  
  
• Adjust the Transmission Throttle Valve Makes a big differnce in shifting
  
  
  
• Clean the Grounds - #1 in the "Dirty Dozen" list below
  
  
  
  If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen
  
  Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
  

I went with this AEM filter because it's closed. Seems to work well + has the advantage that it's a dry filter so it's easier to clean.

The snorkel delete shouldn't really change the temp of the air coming into the intake, you're just taking off a piece that restricts the flow.

it looks like the filter is the washable type, i've always used this kit on my k&n filters
http://www.amazon.com/99-5000-Aerosol-Recharger-Filter-Service/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407174122&sr=8-1&keywords=k%26n+recharge

pretty simple, but allow a good amount of time for the filter to dry after washing it.
basically, you spray the filter with some soap, let it soak in, then wash off in a sink, let dry, then spray some oil on it. you'll be amazed at the crap that comes out of the filter.

04152-YZZA6
Amazon sells five packs. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI

Also, if you haven't done it yet, you'll want the ASSTOY 640 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MXQBK1ZKTZSDZ4407XX

This is the one I buy: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mazda-KD45-61-J6X-Cabin-Filter/dp/B00KWETZS2/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=3%7C2435&Year=2015%7C2015&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=4&vehicleType=automotive

You can search the part number online to price compare.

Not really - I quite like the car 'as is'. The only thing I've done is add a weighted shift knob and some goofy decals.

EDIT: Also a Green Filter for more turbo noise in the cabin.

These work well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CT30SSU/

Never spray peroxide on the cakes and always let it sit for 24 hours before you add cakes to the environment it takes 48hours before it converts to just water.

I've never had any issue soaking with a little peroxide but the key is to let it sit for the 24 hours and don't wait longer or the peroxide is all gone and it was near pointless to add it.

It's almost the exact same one from Midwest I just find two tubs at Walmart the outer/bottom one is filled with enough water to cover the heater with 2 inches extra. The top/inner tub is where the cakes go. I have two setups one for incubation and one for fruiting. The only difference is the fruiting one has a hair hose and perlite base. This is the filter for the air, it let's you see if it's clogged or needs to be changed.

Hepa Sanitary Air Filter (In-line) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QXRD3NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qn7OCbXZAZYPV

The fuzz is just mycelium growing at the base I never worry about that.

this one. I have one too.

Got it here..

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425668660&sr=8-1&keywords=focus+st+green+filter

Came pretty quick, got it in 2-3 days. As far as performance goes, there isnt much of a difference. It sounds great though! Left the top of the air box off.

Ive been thinking of getting the rokblokz myself. Window tint is iffy for me, due to it being illegal. Got popped in my RSX for it.

Some models have them available, like this one. You'd have to find one that fits your car.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

2nd this...Got mine from Amazon and it's a decent change over the stock one. You can actually hear it "hiss" once you remove the "grate" in the airbox.

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i like it so far it adds a bit more induction noise and it looks like it keeps the oil cooler just by a little bit.

you can get them on amazon. I got this one for my 2017 so i think it should fit a 2016 too.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4

everything from a 96 Chevy Tahoe to a 2010 WRX
Napa Auto Parts in the US sells K&N filters usually double the cost of a standard filter, and cleaning kits are less than the price of a new standard filter. Amazon has them for even cheaper

No problems so far, but since I was already putting some dynamat in the cowl to cut down its noise a bit, I built a little "wall" next to it to divert water and put on a waterproof sock just in case.

K&N VF2054 Cabin Air Filter, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TRBD8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iVq1BbR3FACH5

I have had this for a couple months now. Works great in my 2018 limited

purchased mine from Amazon because, free prime shipping.

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...

Accessories:

• Ford ST Heavy Duty Floor Mats (I live in a snowy climate)
  
• Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12in Subwoofer (600w RMS) w/ Rockford Fosgate Prime Amplifier(Class-D 1200w) + Speaker to RCA converter
  
• no-pistons Dead Pedal, Battery Tie Down and Gas Pedal Spacer (not sure if still available but I have access to a water jet and a machine shop so I might make my own)
  
• Rally Armour Mud Flaps (helps with the salt and grit from plow trucks in the winter)
  
• Tow Hitch + Cobb Exhaust Hanger Kit
  
  Step 1:
  
  
• Cobb AP with Stratified tune
  
• Green drop-in filter
  
  Step 2:
  
  
• Cp-e RMM
  
• Boomba Transmission Adapter Plate (short-shift)
  
• Boomba Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings
  
  Step 3:
  
  
• Cp-e Front Mount Intercooler w/ Stratified tune
  
• Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers
  
  Step 4: (all maybes)
  
  
• Turbo-back Exhast (not sure which yet)
  
• Cp-e Ram Air Box
  
• Velossatech Ram Air Intake
  

Green Filter 7159 Green High Performance Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IaEszbMN7H88X

Resonator is part of the exhaust system, $50 From my local muffler shop to remove it and put a straight thru . Gives the exhaust a little character without being loud

• A filter shouldn't void a warranty, and K&N even offers to fight warranty disputes with dealers who claim the filter did it
  
  (side note, not sure why everyone here says "GET A GREEN FILTER!" instead of the best known high flow filter ever - K&N)
  
  
• The top actually secures the filter in place. You can take it off, but I would check it once a week to be sure it didn't pop off the intake tube.
  
  
• a high flow filter is for increased air flow (easier/faster air intake) and not temp decreases
  
  To address ur other concerns:
  
  
• I have a snorkel and I have NEVER had water on the filter, but I also leave the airbox lid on (my 2013 has a ~1" gap between the hood and bumper that water likes to go through to the engine compartment)
  
  
• Oil coated air filters require you to wash and re-oil them every so often. The oil is what catches most of the dust. You can buy a cleaning kit or larger portions of the cleaner and oil. K&N says every 50K miles, but I do it once a year (20K-25K for me) It's a pretty easy process: Take filter out > spray from inside out with garden hose > coat in filter cleaner (special stuff) > repeat garden hose rinse > repeat cleaner > repeat rinse > rinse from outside at angle (not to push dirt into fabric) > pick off any stuck on bugs/grass > let air dry (8-10 hours) > evenly coat with oil (spray on is easiest) > let sit for 30 min > re-apply on any light spots > let sit for 30 min > check for light spots (re-apply and wait again if necessary) > install > done
  
  
  If you're that concerned, I'd go with K&N's filter (since it's closed ended) and leave the cover on, but I haven't heard of any reports of water getting into the filter otherwise

Surely! I have 6-gal plastic carboys. I currently have a carboy cap that has a racking cane and a filter on the other end. The end of my racking cane tubing is attached directly to a barbed disconnect on the liquid post. I still use gravity but I get the siphon going by blowing through the filtered end of the carboy cap. I actually am purchasing this today to replace the filter so I can use pure CO2 to push the beer from my carboy. Just know if you use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to keg that you need to keep the pressure very low as the carboys are nor pressure retaining vessels.

I have to give credit where credit is due though. I built this after seeing /u/brulosopher 's kegging method

I found this MANN one on Amazon. Its compatible with my car. I just wanted to verify that Microfilter = Cabin Filter.

You mean this? It was replaced a year ago and has not been cleaned.

aFe dry filter. I'm running this in my car right now.

Here's a CTS intake hose that I am planning on getting. You may also benefit from a turbo inlet upgrade.

I have the same car, put a green filter in it! Trust me, you'll love the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Plm0xb6E2613Z

Amazon, and do it yourself. Replacing the CAF is a 5 minute process.

Here is the mobile version of your link

i got this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URDQ27A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

not sure if its hepa but it seemed like a good filter.

Thank you. Would you happen to know if this is the right part?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWETZS2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24J5JI5W7C9DR

Here ya go!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8IP28G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are not the same but if you punch your car details into Amazon it will always tell you if the part fits or not

This is the 2.0

amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this will work since I'm on mobile

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m.zEAbG27T0YA

My filter cost me 50 for my 2017 Ridgeline, the cleaning kits are 12, regular filters are around 30.

Pays off after the first cleaning kit, then you are saving 18 every cleaning after that.

Here you go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So if the labor will be performed by someone else, the only thing I need is the oil to replace the existing oil and the oil filter correct?

if so,

Genuine Toyota - Prius Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5) - 04152-YZZA6

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9BPECFS0QV83TREH9

it says qty 5, how many do you use per oil change?

2010 Prius oil change
~4 quarts so

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96995-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000SKYL9I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414344172&sr=1-1&keywords=mobil+1+ow-20

or is there somewhere cheaper I can get same product?

Mobil 1 only please

Do yourself a favor and get one of these cabin filters. I had some smell issues with my Mk7.5 and this got rid of them completely. Could hardly believe the difference it made.

But my car does have a Hepa Filter.

Hepa is definitely the best, but the other filters are no slouches. Hepa filters trap up to 99.97% of pm 2.5 particles. But other filters will still trap something like 80-90% of them. So as long as you run the air in the car as closed, your air will still be purified, but it'll take a minute longer.

Relax, Elon, you still have the most badass car on the road and it cleans the air better than other cars, but all-in-all, other cars will only take an extra minute to clean the air in the car.

Looking at the model numbers from other brands I confirmed that the '18 & '19 utilize the same Air & Cabin filters. If you want a more reputable brand for an aftermarket filter you can use the K&N gear.

Cabin Air Filter:

https://www.amazon.com/VF2054-Cabin-Air-Filter-Pack/dp/B077TRBD8G

Also I will be replacing the cabin filter with this : https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001DRHMMS/?coliid=I146T5958EFWPE&colid=232N8YJJCNYCJ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Not to mention the diff fluid has not been changed in 100k km (bought it less than 15k ago)

I have a little pancake compressor in my shop I got specifically to dust off electronics. I use it occasionally for other jobs, but it's primarily a duster. I just use a short hose with a moisture trap installed inline.

I just couldn't stand buying canned air anymore.

Yeah, it's the Spectre Performance 9948 Air Intake Kit for Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. I picked it up locally from Craigslist early on after I bought my XJ, was one of the first handful of mods I did. It uses the Spectre Performance HPR9833 Air Filter. Fits over the valve cover with no issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/Genuine-Mazda-KD45-61-J6X-Cabin-Filter/dp/B00KWETZS2

Yeah 40 is for genuine ones. I'll have to go home and browse around for knock off ones for cheaper price.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.