(Part 2) Best automotive electrical wiring accessories according to redditors

Yup, just swapping out the headunit is pretty simple. You would just need a harness adapter like this and a single din radio with bluetooth/aux is <$100. It's not until you want to add amps, new speakers/woofers, etc that it gets to be a big project.

So here is my 2018 MT-09 and the mods I have. Various pictures, at different stages.

Newer pics

Older pic

Mods:

akrapovic exhaust w/ ECU flashed by vcyclenut

MZS Bar End Mirrors (not put on yet)

MZS Short levers

Progrip 724BlackRed 724 Superbike Grips

Windscreen

K-Tech RCU Razor-R Rear Shock

TST flush mount turn signals

TST Fender eliminator

Blaster LED integrated taillight

T-Rex frame sliders

Red intake stickers

Auxiliary lighting

Switch for aux lighting

wiring harness for aux lighting

Radiator guard

Corbin seat

You'll need this to plug in to the factory stereo connector. You'll connect the loose ends of this harness to the harness for the stereo, no cutting of existing wires necessary.

If this is the low-beam, you need this part.

If this is the high-beam, you need this part.

After that, you just need some wire strippers and these connectors to hook the new socket. No crimpers required with these types of connectors.

Buy a pair of Hella 7" Headlamps (ECE), and this.

The lamp housings are european code (ECE or E-code). Technically not DOT legal in the US-- but is your inspection station going to inspect your headlamp housings?) These have a sharp cutoff so they won't blind other drivers. I've been running them for years and I love them. The pattern is far superior to DOT lamps-- it tends to really throw the light forward from the bulbs.

The wire loom from ARB is made of a much thicker gauge wire than the wires that are currently driving your headlights. The same bulbs will run brighter with this wire loom upgrade, but I found that if you add new housings (with nice clean clear glass and a good light projection pattern), and a pair of high-quality H4 bulbs, your headlights will work with the power of a thousand suns.

For bulbs, I'm currently running Sylvania SilverStars, but in the past I found out about IPF Fatboy II 80W/60W bulbs. The low-beam is actually higher than the high-beam wattage. Not sure why or how that makes sense, but these are a seriously great upgrade. Be warned, they run very hot and are susceptible to vibration damage (moreso than other standard 55w bulbs). Don't expect these bulbs to last more than a year or two. They're intense, though.

Hope that helps, because that's what I did to my Jeep. I also added a pair of Hella driving-pattern auxiliary lights on my stinger and a pair of 4" Delta fog lights on my front bumper.

There are a million types of connectors. Google or search Amazon or eBay for "26awg connector" . If you're going to be connecting and disconnecting it a lot I would use something other than spade connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/HIFROM-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Ratcheting/dp/B0777FMSM4/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=26%2Bawg%2Bconnector%2Bquick&qid=1549676074&sr=8-20&th=1

Generally for that kind of connection, you'll have a male and female end where the black and red wires switch so red is always hot and black is always ground. Dig this picture from Amazon with the same style of connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Pc160-Gauge-Quick-Disconnect-Harness/dp/B006ZOIJ0S

You need:

• The Carvepower setup from your link
  
• Have to buy batteries extra from eBay
  
• Some parts to put together the CnR cable that goes from the Carvepower to your board:
  1.) XLR connector like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067JJ8Q/
  2.) Some long enough wire, for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR0N370/
  3.) One XT60 connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/
  4.) Some sort of quick disconnect plug, example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOIJ0S/ (this is so that it can easily disconnect if you crash without damaging the cable)
  Then just solder those parts together and you're ready to go.
  
  PS: This case is optional but it perfectly fits 2 carvepower battery cases and the solar charger device + cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6N3J8D/

exactly. and you can get a cheap one or a good one. personally, i buy one with both ends sae and put my own ring connector on the one for the battery and attach the other end to whatever i want to power.

The M50 likely uses a standard H4 bulb, if so these sockets and pigtails will work.

Standard low temp plastic.

Hightemp.

Ceramic high temp

get a generic fuel pump connector.

they are designed for high amperage

Pigtail Fuel Pump Connector Wiring Harness Fit for Chevrolet CHRYSLER DODGE Pontiac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVC65XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vcS0CbBD821N8

Anything will work for that situation.

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Adapter-Connector-Pigtail-Headlight/dp/B07CSPGVFJ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_12 example

https://www.amazon.com/YAZHE-Autoparts-Powerstroke-Harness-right/dp/B076MQPCT8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=6.0+glow+plug+2003&qid=1570825479&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFaR1RPMUtFTVVOTUQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODAyNjUxRDhMT0tNN1ozTTZTJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODA4NzgzTElOSjIwMUlDRTlYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I used a waterproof connector like this for wiring my light bar. You just need some heat shrink and either a soldering iron and solder or a butt connector and crimp tool.

Sounds like a job for an add-a-circuit fuse tap, relay and hardwired into the battery.

Find a fuse that is only powered with the ignition. From there use that as the signal on the relay. Then when the truck turns on, the relay will open and power the plug. Something like the running lights would work.

Supplies you'll want is either a Mini2 blade or micro2 blade fuse tap, depending on what the fuse is. A 12v cigarette lighter plug, and a wiring harness that is long enough to reach the bed from the engine bay. You can also extend it if needed easily. Just dont use the switch, as that will be powered by the fuse tap.


EDIT: I've done something similar except it powers my dashcam. https://imgur.com/a/t95ia


Since it wasnt pulling too much power, I didnt worry about putting a relay in the mix.

SICMA makes wiring harnesses for vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Harness-Repair-sensor/dp/B01H4IIR6O

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Patriot-wiring-installation/dp/B006C4DRPI

So, having one of 2 fans not turn on usually isn't an issue. Lots of them are hooked up such that they only turn on when the AC is on, and the car is at a high temp.

The headlight is almost 100% a blown fuse. Check both the underhood and under-dash fuse boxes.

Aftermarket radio is bad juju. Any aftermarket wiring is the first suspect when you've got electrical problems. I'd check the fuses first, and if that's not it, pull the radio and check the wiring. There are LOTS of really shit 'installers' out there for radios.

> The right way to install a radio is to solder all the connections between the aftermarket harness and a harness converter meant for your stock wiring. Solder it on the bench, then just plug it in.

>The Less right but usually okay way to install is to use crimp connectors. Usually good for a few years.

>The wrong way to install is the old twist 'n tape, wire to wire with some electrical tape around them. These almost universally fail over time.

>The other wrong way is to actually cut the stock radio connector off because you're too cheap to buy a wiring adapter. Fuck guys that do this.

As far as why it's overheating? It's a 13 year old car. It's going to take some diagnosing. Could be a headgasket. Could be lots of stuff.

What year is it?
If first/second gen which I'm near certain it is as 3+ don't have these issues,
look here

The connectors are pretty crap. get ones with ceramic such as this

This is what you're talking about right?
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Infiniti-wiring-installation/dp/B008FT3K14
And it turns out I was looking at an 03-04 kit, this should be the correct kit
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120957605/Metra-95-7605-Dash-Kit-Silver-finish.html?tp=3486&awkw=75621259345&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47439220585&awdv=t&awug=9032443
These 2 should be all I need right?

That is the dash kit for the 03-04.
You need the dash kit for the 05-07.

You then need the stereo adapter harness.

This is the stereo harness for the Bose equipped model.

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Infiniti-wiring-installation/dp/B008FT3K14



Here is the 2005 dash kit



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D0IW8I/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K8J03RR5YH3D7Z9JFKN8&dpPl=1&dpID=71HCU5U5PgL

If you want steering wheel controls then you need an adapter for that as well.

So that thing has 40 bulbs, are they 3W bulbs? If so, you're adding 10 amps worth of draw.

This will be your best bet, the only difference is instead of wiring in the included switch, you'll wire the switched wires to the headlight circuit.

If you don't want to buy the kit, go ahead and buy a relay and harness pack, then wire the black wire to ground, yellow to the positive wire on light bar, the white wire to the headlight positive circuit (your switch), then the blue wire with an inline fuse of at least 15 amps direct to the battery. To handle that amount of power, I'd recommend using 14 gauge wire, I tend to go a little heavier on wire than most, but I like the safety factor.

edit: also make sure you heatshrink the connections for weather protection, and use either good butt connectors or solder the connections.

Good quality frame mounting light bar:

https://www.amazon.com/SSD-Performance-Crosstrek-Premium-Mounting/dp/B07GZYTLZV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549659136&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ssd+light+bar+crosstrek&dpPl=1&dpID=31ej4HkFOiL&ref=plSrch

30 inch LED bar:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Light-Driving-Lights-Warranty/dp/B00WE482BY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549659248&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=led+light+bar+30+nilight&dpPl=1&dpID=41WlkX9lg8L&ref=plSrch

Wiring harness with rocker switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B074GXRBJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1549659312&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wiring+harness+for+led+light+bar&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ril2AmojL&ref=plSrch


Not sure about the relocation bracket, but this is the setup I'm wanting for the front.

If you don't want to cut your existing wires, you could always buy a brake light extension wire and cut that instead. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757WSHVP/

color codes or harness for $10

You need something like this ----> http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Liberty-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL0WI4

Don't cut any wires of the original harness. If you buy a harness like the one listed above (not 100% sure it is compatible with your Jeep) you can wire that directly to the harness the stereo came with and plug it in. Sometimes you get lucky and the harness coming out of the stereo has the exact same color coding as the harness you buy to plug into your Jeep, in which case you can just wire them together.

As someone else already said, the RCA is for an amp, and in the bottom left is the connection for the antenna.

ah okay awesome man.

I read the reviews for the harness you bought and they werent very positive. Someone recomended this harness... no reviews though.. thoughts? or is it still cheaper to just buy some bosch relays, switch them out and pop the harness in?