Best automotive engine water pumps according to redditors

I agree with framerotblues - it looks like it should be a part of the pump assy, but they don't sell pump internals, so it's hard to tell. fwiw, your replacement pump's only $30 at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-WH23X10030-Washing-Machine/dp/B00OMR17TA

Woah okay.

First the seals - I'm assuming he's just talking about the lower unit seal. Easy to replace and should be done every few years anyway. You'll replace the water pump (impeller) at the same time. You can do this yourself. There are tons of YouTube videos on this the hardest part you'll have is disconnecting or disengaging the shift cable when lowering the lower unit out. On some Johnsons it's a little clip that is hard to get to but again, YouTube. This is the water pump kit for mine and may be for yours as well, look up your model there. Also you'll want to drain and replace the lower unit gear old while you're doing that. You can buy a kit with the oil and the pump if you want, or oil and pump separate, or if you hate yourself you can use the squeeze tubes. Again, YouTube. One piece of advice though is if you can not get the vent plug or drain plug use one of these impact drivers. Then put some marine grease on the threads when putting them back in.

Yes you can fix a small hole. Rough out edges, apply, reinforce, and sand. It's your call if you want to paint it to match or just a protectant coat.

Tune up - if it runs great don't mess with it. Otherwise spark plugs, wires if needed, carb cleaned, etc. Check the rubber hoses for leaks and cracks though (fuel lines, water lines, etc). Painting it is up to you. There's lots of good fiberglass restore products out there if it's just oxidation. Just lots of elbow grease. Or a polisher.

For a mechanic... I can't throw a rock here without finding a good outboard mechanic if needed. Start asking around a local marina, other friends with boats, etc. Some dealers are good.

For the canopy, I got mine off Amazon here just measure and choose your size. Super easy to install.

For other essentials that kind of depends where you're going and what you're doing. Most states also require an auditory signal (whistle, horn, or air horn) and a fire extinguisher. Since it's an outboard maybe your state doesn't but always nice to have. Also a throwable flotation device (square foam thing that you can sit on or store away).

Flyin Miata is well-regarded for all the things.

I like Gates for both belt and pump, personally. Amazon sells that brand. Get the belt in a kit that includes the replacement pulleys, gasket, etc. The Gates pump has a cast impeller rather than spot-welded, which some think is the better way to go for a water pump.

BTW, here's a worklist you can use for this job: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEStLWP0Vp9YlvqrPNLA67S31Iz0FZd0Q-2waNV_UFg/edit#gid=0 (if you have updates on any of it, let me know!)

That's pretty much the definition of a well pump. About $100 bucks for the cheapest one, which should serve you fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Happybuy-Submersible-0-5HP-Stainless-Industrial/dp/B07JV8B3V2/

It's literally made to be dropped down a well and operate while completely submerged. That tank won't even come close to straining the pump. Even the cheap ones can lift 150 feet.

Heck, if you don't really need pressure or a fast flow, you could even just use a submersible fountain pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/

That one is $20 and will lift 7 feet, which looks like it might even be enough for your needs.

Edit: You could also get a "transfer pump" for about $50

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Transfer-Utility-Impeller-Gasket/dp/B07R7V1HJW/

It has the advantage that you can actually install it inside the cabin. The disadvantage is that it needs to be primed (filled with water) before it works, and if the hose between the transfer pump and the water source gets air in it, you need to prime it again. So you'll need to install a one-way valve after the pump to ensure water can't drain out. It's also limited to a rise of a maximum of about 33 feet, possibly less depending on the strength of the pump. That's the limit for raising water by pulling it from the top (rather than pushing from the bottom, like submersible pumps do). But, again, that doesn't look like it will be much of a limitation for this specific application.

I bought it from Advance Auto. I don't see it listed now but here is the box/label it came in. Seems like it was about $20 more then the standard new pump. Can't believe I still had the box.

Edit: Here is the pump by part number, apparently the picture isn't accurate or they changed the design, but it still says increased performance and I clearly experienced that.

I ordered everything off amazon and did my thermostat, water pump, expansion tank, also on the automatic cars (like mine) there is another thermostat on the bottom of the expansion tank when you remove it, which most likely broke when your tank exploded

I also snapped off the drain screw/plug on the bottom of the expansion tank when switching it over...so I filled er' up with coolant, only to realize the MF'er was busted ever so slightly, so coolant was flowing through the expansion tank like taco bell does to me. So I replace that too for under $5.

This is a fairly easy job to DIY, the only thing you need to worry about is the 32MM wrench to take off the fan on the automatics, other than that, most of the tools are just the 14MM or 16MM sockets and some torx screws. If you are working on your E46 you should have a torx set, and a metric socket set. I did not do all the hoses though when I did mine as they felt and appear to be in decent condition.

[thermostat] (https://www.amazon.com/Stant-14602-Thermostat-Housing-Fahrenheit/dp/B000C822YM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487609776&vehicle=2003-31-176-20--1-6-6-7308-171-1-1---1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2003%3Abmw%3A325xi)

[expansion tank thermostat that sits on bottom of expansion tank] (https://www.amazon.com/B7583-17111437362-Cooler-Thermostat-Housing/dp/B00BOIVI76/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BOIVI76&pd_rd_r=WV5225HSC9FA4W0BJ1FB&pd_rd_w=uAVgO&pd_rd_wg=nUSHN&psc=1&refRID=WV5225HSC9FA4W0BJ1FB)

[expansion tank] (https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Coolant-Reservoir-Expansion-Quality/dp/B008564ZQG/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9S8V0595SD0VV6X1BPVX)

[water pump with metal impeller] (https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-11-527-799/dp/B0066TLWGU/ref=pd_sim_263_21?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S1N6T6G260SVYS2YNMY1)

[32mm wrench for fan] (https://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Wrench-Water-Holder-Removal/dp/B017VLLQ6M/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=513EA9TG3QARCWSMJ554)

So for ~$150-$160 you can re-do the cooling system, if you want to do hoses as well, you are looking at another $50-$75

Well, you'll know where to buy one next time.

we use this one to pump from my dads rv to my septic tank in the summer :http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HXR7XPZC8NYFC23N5W4

150' of 1" line, 6 foot rise give or take. takes about 10 min to drain and flush his tanks.

I've never seen the SewerSolution until now, but it looks to me like it serves a bit of a different purpose then the Flush King. It looks like the SewerSolution is meant to run a little longer distance (like using it at home where you can't get your RV close enough to and outside inlet to your sewer).

Just looking at it, I'd be a little leery. I can see that there's a jet that blasts a stream going out the hose, but if you get enough TP or other solids in that little hose, is that jet going to be enough to push it though? If it does happen to get jammed, you're in for a bit of a mess when you close your black water tank and disconnect this hose. Remember, the shut off for the black water tank is generally located right up at the tank, there is going to be 4 to 5 feet of PVC full of stuff between the shut off and the disconnect, and it's all going to come out. If you want to go this route, take a look at the flojet, I have a friend who has one, and they are happy with it. It's obviously more money, but it actually grinds up the solids and actually pumps stuff out the hose.

http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397960442&sr=1-2&keywords=flojet


The flush king is more for keeping your tanks clean and free of dried up solids. You hook it up to the outlet on the RV, then hook the slinky hose up to the flush king. First you drain your tank as normal, then you use close the flush king and turn on the hose, this pushes water back up into your tanks to create a rinse. then you open again and let everything drain back out. Repeat as necessary. As time permits, I'll sometimes do it 3 to 4 times during a dumping.

G9020-47031 Engine Cooling... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FS6OP8S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Little early to tell but I’ve been running this bad boy for months without issue

Hey, OP! I would use factory certified parts, or at least factory specified. Would this shipping work for you?
http://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-WH23X10030-Washing-Machine/dp/B00OMR17TA

I bought and modified one of these 50 gallon water tanks that sits in the back of our truck. With a macerator I am able to pump out our tanks in a more or less liquid solution and fill up the tank. Yes, 50 gallons x 8 pounds per gallon is a lot of weight, but not to an unloaded truck. Then we go to the dump station and hook up the standard stinky slinky hose and pull the [valve] (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T40-Spigot-Valve-Assembly/dp/B00594AZRU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487151353&sr=8-12&keywords=valterra+waste+valve) open. After emptying the tank rinse it out and occasionally put some soap in it to keep it somewhat clean. It works.
EDIT: Early morning cannot type....

I usually keep water in my tank over the summer. I'll drain and refill before trips. I like to travel with some water in the fresh tank, even if I'm camping at a cg with water hookup in case I need to use the sink en route or at the cg before I hook up the city water.

I'll usually leave a little water in the black tank between trips. If it's completely dry, whatever is left in the tank will dry to sides of the tank and become like poo concrete.

I have a poop cannon (flojet waste pump) so I can dump at home. Between trips after I dump, I will fill the back tank, let it sit for a couple days and dump again.

Flojet 18555000A 18555-000A Portable RV Waste Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q3BnDb39C6ZVZ

Part of an automotive water pump, looks like.

You'll just need a timing belt kit and water pump and you should be good to go. So $100. Don't forget the liquid gasket.

Awesome. I guess it would providing you have lots of sun (I assume Texas has). It's basically a steady trickle but I measured it at 2 litres every minute (120ph). You will need additional pipe to get it to work.

I would maybe recommend something like this though - electric but it does 10x as much (not that I have bought one).

Wolfcraft 2202000 Water Pump 1.300 l/h https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001P1972/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_10SjzbZ6KS4X1

This is the UK Amazon.

You can use a macerator pump connected to the dump valve

https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000A-Portable-Macerator-Carrying/dp/B001HKZHIW

Then just pump it into a 55 gallon drum or something in your vehicle and then go dump it somewhere where you can dump into the sewer.

With 3 people using the toilet, expect to need it pumped out every week to 10 days. Average size is 30 gallons for each black and grey tank.

The grey water will fill up even faster, with dishes, showers, etc.

When my last died I replaced it with one of these:

Dropped my idle temp about 10F. It has a backing plate to increase the impeller low end efficiency.

Sometimes I dry camp in the middle of nowhere so I need to dump when I get home. I have a macerator pump unit that hooks up to a garden hose (I only use the hose for this) and then I stick the far end of the hose into my sewer cleanout and dump it all in there. This also allows me to do a really deep cleaning on my tanks to keep my sensors clean since I can flush a ton of water through my tanks.

Pump I have is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HKZHIW/ and I'd recommend it as it works very well.

Any siphon should work really.
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Transfer-Gasoline-Siphon-Inflation/dp/B002FMYXYU

Water pumps aren't known to fail. You got pretty unlucky, but waterpumps are meant to be replaced to avoid catastrophic failure.

One time, a coolant hose leaked, and I lost all my coolant in a plume of steam. My temperature gauge needle was slammed right at "H" My '97 Miata died on the freeway exit ramp, and it wouldn't start up. I pushed it to a parking spot, and I let the engine cool down. I added coolant to the radiator, and topped off the oil. Miraculously, she started up, and I drove home and fixed the leaking hose. She still runs great a 2000 miles later.

I don't know how badly you overheated your engine, but there's a chance the engine is still alive. Top off the coolant and oil, then see if you can start up the engine and drive around. You will only have a couple of minutes before overheating again if your water pump is broken, so I'd get a tow to your home.

You can then look into replacing the waterpump yourself for much less.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-42134-Water-Pump/dp/B000C2W91E.

Odd, I just looked back to my orders the WP was $28 when I ordered, another $40 or so for the TB+pullied and the gaskets for the camshafts and crankshaft were probably $30 tops all together. [Here's my wp. ](Gates 42134 Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2W91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXKXAb7NFEBRH) and [TB](Gates TCK179 Timing Belt Component Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2YDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YKXAbCPXBPEQ)

About a month back I noticed the heat (I have forced hot water) wasn't being produced on one floor, so I checked the zone regulators and noticed one was most likely no longer working. I'm no plumber or electrician, but I tried to employ some logic and felt the electric power head was cold as well - and the copper piping that followed it was also cold - I figured this was indication enough that there was no flow from that unit. I replaced the power head and turned up the thermostat - the furnace kicked in and I felt hot air radiating from the base boards.

These are all three regulators - look at that dust!

The green part is the electric power head

Amazon link

For now, if this is the problem, you could possibly swap the power head with a different zone to generate heat. Again, I'm no electrician or plumber, but just some idiot with two hands and a curious nature. There's also a level on the power head that opens the valve - it's normally set to auto, but you could attempt to lift that lever and see if any heat is produced.