Best automotive replacement fuel filters according to redditors

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

Short interval oil changes, dirty oil and fuel will kill the injectors. I get called crazy but I do 5K oil changes, Tranny and fuel at 10K. Lucas fuel treatment and FPPF Killem biocide every tank

I also run the Cat 1R-0750 2 micron filter. That requires an adapter for filter head.

Mine had heads and injectors done @80K. I' currently at 280K and the only hiccup I have is it needs the fuel pressure regulator changed.

Are you talking about something like this? You are going to run into serious problems unless you consider what kind of fuel you're going to be able to find.

It is an '82 XS400 special. It ran from 77 to 82. I have drag bars, but left all the cables the original length. The horn bracket got flipped upside down so I could access it/install a new one. I made a bracket that attaches to the bar running down in front of the engine to hold to LED fog lights, run by an auxiliary switch. Painted and wrapped the headers and have emgo shorty mufflers. Emgo pod filters, and a puck-style filter for the breather tube nipple. Led tails, led indicator lights, Upgraded headlight. Point of note on the headlight, mine was a sealed beam halogen. So to add a new bulb you have to buy an aftermarket reflector housing from candlepower.

EDIT: Also forgot Oury grips, cafe mirrors, new fuel lines, fuel filter and vacuum tube.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CA6E56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0ITF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HAQGO20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00230QCIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VFL0SO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDYB3P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UVME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZUJGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKKSTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGKKMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SK7N8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try to find one that you can put inline with the fuel line. I don't like the ones that fit inside the line like this because they cause a fuel line blockage, you can find small ones that will fit inside of the line though.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FD-4615-Fuel-Filter/dp/B004A2BBOI

On my 2001 Legacy, the fuel filter is located under the hood, drivers side near the strut mount. It looks like a black can with 2 metal spouts with fuel lines attached to them. Here is an example http://www.amazon.com/FRAM-G7367-In-Line-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000C31KHW/

It's really easy to replace, just take off the tubes (sometimes a lot of strength is required to pull them off) and pop the tubes on the new one--oh and try not to start a fire.

It's crazy that the VDC has a timing chain, the legacy has a belt.


Before I took it in anywhere, I'd probably change the plugs an wires--or at least check the plug's gap. Change the fuel filter, and reset the obd2 thing and see if there is any improvement.

Get a socket and wrench set What I got

Get torx bits What I got

I got the Haynes Audi A4 book but everyone suggests the Bentley manual, I don't know which is better, I just know that the Haynes helps a bit and is ~100USD less expensive

Jack and Jack stands

35mm or 36mm socket for the oil filter. WIG

That ought to get you through a good chunk of work. Cost me ~200USD for that. Although I did get other things for the car like;

Triple square bits What I got

1/2in breaker bar

Sockets for the 1/2in breaker bar

Security bit set What I got ,Used it to replace a few sensors

Yeah, that's it. The extras ran me ~90usd more

Would a fuel line such as this LDR fuel line be worth the money?
And does this fuel filter seem to be worth it? What should one look for in fuel filters?

You'll need a small tubing cutter. Like this. You can get away with compression fittings as they should hold the pressure. Should be no need to flare the ends.

I would probably add one of those cheap clear inline filters somewhere to the fuel line before the engine. Probably between the priming bulb and engine actually.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Filter-Kohler-Others-options/dp/B00T6RRMCW/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526933057&sr=1-7&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A5870510011%2C6800125011

You can find something similarly priced locally at a auto parts store (a few bucks should get you a couple). Clear is nice because you can see the gas flowing (and if there's crud in there). Plus you can replace it easier than taking a pump or carb apart (so get a couple, they're generally throw-away and not cleanable).

1. How do you know you have spark? Just curious. Try dribbling some gas onto the air filter or into the carb throat, if it fires then you have spark. It sounds as if you DO have spark, but it's good to verify.
   
   
2. From gently seated, how many turns out is the idle mixture screw?
   
   
3. Can you run a compression test? A compression tester from Harbor Freight is pretty affordable, and a good thing to have around anyhow. If the bike ran recently, it's probably not this but it can't hurt to check. Also, it's good to do every so often and keep a record of the compression declining with use, it can help you know when to do the piston/rings/hone.
   
   
4. I think your actual issue is fuel not getting through the carb. If it was heavily varnished, the carb cleanup might not have gotten everything out of it. After some running, it is possible some crap moved downstream and clogged a passage that was recently cleaned...it happens.
   
   If it's any consolation, my first real carb cleaning was with a Yamaha Maxim 550 (four carbs) that sat with fuel in them for 11 years. I took those damn things off and cleaned them 14 times (I was learning), which meant that every time they went back on, they had to be tuned and synced. /rant
   
   It appears from photos of your bike that you can loosen the carb boot clamps and simply rotate it 90deg. without taking it off of the bikes. Pull the slide out first, of course. Doing that should allow you to have the float bowl face you, and give direct access to the jets for at least a cursory look. If it's really bad, then take the carb off and clean it again.
   
   Edit to add: if you have lots of time and don't feel like spending much effort, drain the gas tank and float bowl, then refill with 1/2 a can of carb cleaner (I recommend Seafoam or Berryman's B-12 Chemtool). Let that marinate for a couple of days, then add some gas or premix (whatever you run) and try to start it. That might be enough to at least loosen things up.
   
   Also: are you running a fuel filter? I like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Slimline-Compact-Body-Filter/dp/B003CJ95V6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-2&keywords=visu+filter
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Large-Capacity-Filter-8423-01-9909/dp/B00SJWGHJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-1&keywords=visu+filter

Parts for this project are

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-42072AE00A-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00L2OWO2U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=42072AE00A&qid=1573520568&sr=8-1

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZVFXUW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The first part might say its NOT compatible with your car, it’s wrong. You discard the filter / strainer portion and keep the metal “cap” portion. This part works for H4 and H6 engines. It’s the ‘work around’ you have to do unless you want to spend $300 for a whole new fuel pump and assembly.

The 2nd part is a 928 Viton o-ring that does not swell in ethanol. The OEM o ring ends up swelling in ethanol which ruptures the metal cap causing your car not to hold pressure when parked, which causes your car to starve for fuel on startup.

That's another good thing about these, they've been used by quite a few countries around the world, so there is quite a bit of information as well as manuals in English.

You can get them directly from Puch, as well as most of the importers offer them, like Pinzgauer.com and/or Expedition Imports. That said, you may want to check the forums to see if they have some free versions somewhere, since the importers tend to charge quite a bit for them.

Pinzgauers won't show up in most automotive search engines. The basic items aren't too exotic, with Sparkplugs, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter and Air Filter readily available.
Here is a link to a pretty nice parts-interchangeability list.

Overall, parts are not too bad, with some being rather expensive. That said, this has been the case with most of the older cars i've owned, with some parts being 5-10 bucks and others simply costing hundreds of dollars for no apparent reason. Old vehicles tend to do that to ya :P.

So I've tried heating with boiling water (obviously can't use the blowtorch) then freezing with CRC Freeze-Off. No luck. I tried the pipe wrench and it still wouldn't budge. I soaked a rag in Liquid Wrench and wrapped it around the nut overnight to find it just as much of a pain when I tried to loosen it this morning. I re-wrapped it and ordered this to replace the line. I'll leave it wrapped and keep spraying it, but if it doesn't come off by the time the replacement comes, I guess I'll just have to start cutting.

My dad installed this exact fuel filter on my 1965 C10.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COBB2A/ref=pe_825000_114212990_pe_825000_114212990_n_id. It's a good filter. I cannot replace mine with another brand, as it rests on one of the headers. You could either replace it, or move it and replace it with the OEM filter. I have a a couple spares, as they do tend to get leaky after a while through the gaskets.

You would think so. I'm going to try one of these. I don't have much room.

I spliced in a larger, generic small engine one that was at Oreilly. It's nice because it's larger and you can see what gets stuck in it more easily than the tiny stock one. Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/FRAM-G4164-In-Line-Fuel-Filter/dp/B0009H527A/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484176062&sr=1-19&keywords=fuel+filter

This is a quick and easy mod anyone who plans on putting their X in water over the axles should do. It takes less than 15 minutes and can save your rear diff.

​

Also, not taking away business from great supporters like Gorilla and PRG, but you can get the parts to do this mod on Amazon for >$25. Just need the axle vent, a filter and 8' of hose with clamps. While you're at it, buy 2 filters and add one to the front diff vent hose that comes up behind the air box.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-263-Rear-Axle-Differential/dp/B00NF1S0LW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rear+axle+vent&qid=1563124009&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Clear-View-Glass-Filter/dp/B000VSDZIK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5%2F16+fuel+filter&qid=1563124185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Here is the one I got... I don't know if it is "good" but it fits and works with my 12

WIX Filters - 24951 Cartridge Fuel Metal Canister, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSD28C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Yog8wbRHB6HCY

It came with the oring as well and I hear that's something to look for.

As the owner of my second 2005 MCS, this is also the first thought that popped into my head. This, plus a trusted mechanic.

PS: I just bought that 36mm socket on Amazon. Less than $10.

Ever seen one of these ?

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF8CB-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000SOKE5E

They work, we have a lot of boaters that get water in their fuel around here and they want it pumped out, so we oblige, then use the 'Magic Funnel' and fill the shop trucks and pulling tractors , mowers, etc. using it.

Unhook the fuel line from the inlet of the VST tank, run a line from that line to a catch container and use a clean fuel source to flush that part of the system with a primer bulb.

Or leave it hooked up and flush it through the vst and out its drains described below.

Your VST should have a drain or drains at the bottom of it, their will be a nipple or nipples , usually with a hose attached to use for draining.

The drains are opened by small allen head valves or slotted screws near the nipples.

Open them and let it drain for a while or until they stop.

At that point I hook everything back up, close the VST drains fill the system with clean fresh fuel then start it up.

Oh this may take several tries and it will run rough for a bit, however I have never had one yet that didnt eventually clear out and run fine.

The local DNR officers have a real prob with water in the fuel around here, one craft with an engine that matches yours I have had to clean out 4 times now !

They even drilled holes through the side cover to allow easy access to the drain screws.

Their problem is they use portable fuel tanks and are always leaving the vents open on the caps.

Yes, water will get in that way, and it will surprise you how much.

As for your contamination prob, I would check the fuel sensor for the fuel gauge on the top of that tank, they have a tendency to leak if the tank warps.

We also had a recent bout of engine pod mounted fuel tanks that literally cracked on the top and leaked real bad with rains or the toon running in rough water.