(Part 2) Best automotive replacement gaskets according to redditors

Is that the Ford/Mazda 2.3l 4cyl? The valve cover job is about an hour, maybe 2. Very easy and quite a few videos on YouTube for it. Ford used it in so many vehicles, it is a very common engine.

Felpro VS50639R1 Valve Cover Gasket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q0U7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_09hTCbJEPPFGY

YouTube vid from a certified Ford technician.
https://youtu.be/Y-aScxyk7pM

Actually, I agree. It was a really shitty reason. However, at the time, I couldn't afford to buy the entire cluster. Doing some digging, and the prices haven't really dropped any. Here was the run-down of what I was looking at:

180 bucks for the fuel accumulator
~250 for a new pump
60 bucks x2 for the connecting fuel lines (I can't find the exact lines, but that's how much they were)

So, yeah. It was a lost cause for me to fix it. The clutch was still strong, and the motor, other than the top end clicking a lot, ran really strong for just a 1.6L.

Edit:
And of course a new filter which at the time was 20 bucks. Thank goodness I didn't have to buy a housing for it because they are still 150 bucks. Still looking for the cluster pictures.

Edit2:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5874947-86-GTI-8v-CIS-fuel-pump-housing-*almost*-NOS

I strongly second this recommendation. For the curious, here's the video link to the show and here's a short write-up on costs, etc. All your flavor is coming from the woodchips, so I've found electric to be a great alternative to charcoal - low hassle, low cost, low clean up.

I've had a lot of fun tweaking my flower pot smoker; a digital probe thermometer is a great investment, and this gasket has really helped with heat retention. I also sprung for a cast iron box for wood chips, something like this.

Next step is hooking the heating element up to a temperature controller for longer, lower maintenance smokes.

I mean kudos for the ingenuity.. but for the same cost and time you could have just changed the head gasket. A 2001 Civic head gasket can be done in a couple hours and the parts aren't that expensive at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-HS4038-Cylinder-Head-Gasket/dp/B007P73PQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491865419&sr=8-1&keywords=2001+civic+head+gasket

Most here think it could be your valve cover gasket. No way to know 100% unless you were to see the source. I am leaning towards the valve cover gasket because I can see the oil drip (especially around like where the dipstick is) and also because those are things that are known to break. Some people here say head gasket but i really think thats unlikely because usually that is accompanied by a loss of coolant. If you change your oil and you see coolant then that's it. That is an involved repair.

The good news is if it is your valve cover gasket this isn't super urgent so long as your oil levels dont fall too low. A lot of people are driving around with leaky valve cover gaskets as we speak! My gf drove around with a very slow VCG leak for years. If it's a head gasket or a

The other good news is on your engine it is very easy to access, and amazon has the replacement part for $5 USD https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25183348-Original-Equipment-Gasket/dp/B014MVJ87I (AC Delco is General Motors, so this is the actual original equipment manufacturer). Your local auto parts store would also have it in stock. To access you would just need to remove the ignition coil assembly (the black thing with two black "humps" bolted to the valve cover with 4 wires coming out labeled 1,2,3,4). And bolt off the valve cover. Probably good to disconnect the hoses. I would change the spark plugs while you're down there (the things at the end of those labeled 1,2,3,4 wires)

The medium news is that you will need to find someone with tools to do this. Tools can be expensive. You might be better off going to a mechanic unless one of your friends has tools. The mechanic will have all the tools and be sure to torque down the bolts in the right sequence and torque values. Some valve cover gaskets also require RTV silicone (less than $5, also available at auto parts store) but you have to know where to put it. My only concern is some of the bolts appear corroded and *may or may not* get stripped or break upon removal. Not saying that's a guaranteed or even a big deal but you have to have the tools and knowledge for how to deal with it. That's why im leaning towards a mechanic or a friend with a lot of tools.

The kind of concerning thing is The engine is actually built by Daewoo in south korea which is not known for reliability. Not saying there’s anything wrong with it but something to keep in mind

I'd also highly recommend replacing the valve cover gasket. They get brittle and leak onto your headers. Very easy job. Just be careful the you don't over tighten any of the bolts and be careful with the cover too (it's made of plastic).

Valve cover gasket: https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Gasket-Grommet-Victor-Reinz/dp/B00BZ9YV8W/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522256158&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+valve+cover+gasket

The belt tensioner is known to go bad on E46's as well and that'll put you on the side of the road if it fails. Also a pretty easy replacement.

Belt tensioner: https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-11-427-252/dp/B0066QTNCS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522255677&vehicle=2003-31-170-20--7-6-7-8226-171-1-1---1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2003%3Abmw%3A325ci

The felpro double blue ones or turbo ines are the best I've heard.. I work in auto parts and never sell the single stacked ones.. always the double ones.. they work way better.. like these..https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-26415-PT-Cylinder-Gasket/dp/B004IZKKZS

Unless I'm mistaken, these cover what you're saying... Except maybe the crush washer on that banjo oil bolt. Just gotta get some fast set RTV.

Dual Vanos O-Ring Seal Repair Kit Compatible with BMW E36 E39 E46 E53 E60 E83 E85 M52tu M54 M56 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUJQOHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.uBwCbST9YE4A

MAHLE Original VS50368 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006E0P0GO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wuBwCbHB6M14N

Get Lube Locker for your diffs. I know $40 is a hard bullet to bite, but I promise the second you bolt back up your diffs, it'll be worth every penny.

USE CONVENTIONAL OIL for your differentials. Not only is the Dino oil much cheaper, it's better. It does a much better job at cooling. Amsoil is typically the go to brand for Jeep oil, but I just go with whatever Dino oil is on the shelf at the store for the differentials

Get 2 cans of brake cleaner and use 1 per diff to clean the inside out. Don't be surprised when you see a little bit of sludge on the inside, it's kinda normal. And don't be surprised by the smell of diff fluid, it smells like shit because it has sulfer in the fluid

Do have a rubber mallet to get the diff cover off. The bigger the better

Tighten the bolts to 25 ft lbs with blue loctite

You didn't mention if you had a LSD or not, if you do, you'll need to add a limited slip additive. Here's a chart that will mention that, and will give you information on other fluids (scroll to TJ) :

https://www.extremeterrain.com/jeep-wrangler-fluid-capacities.html

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

50 pack on Amazon.

OEM Part

You just need to google "12x22x2 crush washer"

Something like a set of these might actually do it for you. Or two of these. i don't know what size you need measure and order the correct size, but i do know that you are missing the flanges, they probably rotted off. you will also need to reform the shape of joint, it looks like the intermediate pipe hit the ground, hit it with a hammer a few times. and there is a donut gasket

heres what it should like like when you're done

A S52 will bring only marginal benefits over the M52 he has in the car. If he wanted to spend that type of money he should rebuild the M52 with S52 internals.

I assume you were talking about this engine? No way in fuck I would touch that thing. Said he put $1200 in head work into it, but has no receipt listed for the "$800 in machine work." His "$275 head bolts" include the "headgasket" he bought, and he rebuilt it with OEM components, not even using an MLS gasket and ARP hardware. That's not a headgasket he paid that much for, that's the seal kit which has a shitty included headgasket.

A proper rebuilt S52 will be in the 3-4k area, not just shy of $1500. Something like this is more what you can expect.

Amazon prime does come in handy 😁
Elring Dichtung Valve Cover Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CIYYN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OLePCb3F9GQ1S

Apart links shown on the main post, I seen theses :


https://www.amazon.com/Outlander-Renegade-Engine-Gasket-420684160/dp/B00EHQS6GS


https://www.amazon.ca/NICHE-Can-Am-Outlander-800-Crankshaft/dp/B072BMNL2X

This is the set I got,

https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-HGS310-Graphite-Gasket-1991-2002/dp/B00TM0VU9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=Saturn+sl1+head+gasket&qid=1556060244&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


I will look into the piston rings.
Would new valve seals also be a good idea?

Bummer! Try one of these if you need more than the mallet. It's what I use at work and it's pretty great if you're careful.

These work really well for that, theyre also really good for lifting rubber to tuck

if you have a 2.2L http://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA12372047347-Cylinder-Includes-manifold/dp/B009DJQ6QQ

2.5L http://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA12372047340-Cylinder-Includes-manifold/dp/B009DJQ3YQ

or a 1.8L http://www.amazon.com/Ishino-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set/dp/B001G7F2AO