Best automotive sway bar link kits according to redditors

ACDelco 46G20513A Advantage Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006N96DLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_li58AbFDQ0GBG

Anti-swaybar endlink

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Without rust, it'd look like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750257-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00498ZQP8

> I've been hearing some knocking in the rear suspension when I drive over bumps

Rear Sway Bar Links. It's a common problem on Gen 1 and 2, usually getting loose after 70,000 miles. My right side was bent to hell on purchase at 82,000 miles. Floated all over the highway, made some banging noises every time an asymmetric motion happened in the back.

Get a set of Moogs (https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80867-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L1O/) and swap them out. They're a little beefier and will both not bend/break and stay tight at the recommended torque spec.

Next, I would start with the new battery first before possibly wasting money on a new alternator. A battery can be recharged, so if it is the alternator you'll know a day or two after. Also be sure you don't leave things plugged into the 12V sockets. They actually draw some juice while the car is off, ex.: I leave a phone charger plugged in overnight in the winter and sometimes end up with barely enough (Once or twice not enough) amperage to turn the engine over.

Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.

Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.

2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150

You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.

Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt

Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26

You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.

If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59

Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17

If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38

And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10

Unless you hear bad things about Mevotech I'd say go for it. However, I have some good news, it looks like there's other aftermarket options if that one doesn't pan out:

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750150-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B003YMJJR6

https://www.amazon.com/BECKARNLEY-101-7903-Stabilizer-Link-Kit/dp/B01DLEIB66

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G20728-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B0049C7Q3O

https://www.amazon.com/ProSteer-Sway-Bar-Link-SL822/dp/B00U1L8KSW

I can't speak to how good any of those options are, but Moog is usually a pretty safe bet. That last one looks like it's the same Mevotech option.

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-30760238KIT-Sway-Link/dp/compatibility-chart/B01AWXRAQG

I just put on the Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit. It'd be perfect for what you're wanting.

https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1155200-FRONT-LEVELING-SWAYBAR/dp/B007CISU6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550174024&sr=8-2&keywords=teraflex+leveling+kit+jeep+jk

If you didn't put on new wheels with the 33s you may consider that as well to increase the backspacing. wheel spacers would also work

They indeed are plastic. Here is a link to some replacements. Moog K750136 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B2YRJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UIAVDbKXF6YCP

Front or rear?

If it's front, just change the whole endlink. I recently changed mine to moog, so I could have grease fittings.

Moog K80899 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FMXGGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i3u4CbSN5WT9E

Theoretically they should be wearing the same on both sides. If cash is an issue then only do one side. But the other side usually fails after a few months when you do this.

Your boot deteriorated which means you might have uneven tire wear on that side. In any case after you replace them you should consider rotating your tires and get an alignment.

I don't know what year your xD is. but I prefer greasable Moog rods.
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L6E

More options here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/scion,2012,xd,1.8l+l4,1503722,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

Ebay is also a good source to save money

Mine was broken when I got it, replaced it with this. Seems to hold up just fine, minimal noticeable differences between driving with and without it.

Like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750049-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002M2MHHI

Thanks! Amazingly fast reply man! Okay, so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MK80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002E3PT52/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1/141-2664584-9781229?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002E3PT52&pd_rd_r=0f267c5f-b213-4d6b-bdaf-11c997c51464&pd_rd_w=Abd4N&pd_rd_wg=AIr1i&pf_rd_p=53e036f8-8d3b-407e-beae-88d349e4fc13&pf_rd_r=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT&psc=1&refRID=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT

Also the other side looks perfect, like it is much newer than this one (no cracks on the boots, etc), should I replace it anyway?

If the the idea of a lift is already on your radar (and within the budget) I would go ahead and do it while you have everything taken apart.

You have a couple options depending on how much lift you're going for. In my opinion, ADF (www.andersondesign-fab.com) lifts are really really great for the price. The customer service is also second to none. When I installed mine, I emailed them with a question and Patrick (the owner) responded in LESS THAN A MINUTE haha. FYI, They just moved to a new shop so they're a bit backed up rn.

Or you could go with lift springs. Both RalliTek and Primitive Racing sell them separately or in their fully assembled kits. RalliTek also makes their own springs as another option. Also, note that the Standard Height versions of Kings will actually provide a small amount of lift, too.

You could also combine ADF lift spacers AND lift springs. With our cars, I've heard not to go over 2" total due to extra stress on the CV joints. Many people have gotten away with it though.

One thing to keep in mind is that the higher up you go, the more need you'll have for trailing-arm spacers. They keep your back wheels centered in the wheel well. ADF sells them in their kits. You may also need to ditch your rear sway bar altogether or get longer rear end links (Kartboy STI endlinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067QSFQW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_XoMRDbK0GP82A are great for lifted Foresters!).

It know it may seem a little daunting, but in the long run, I'm really glad I lifted mine. Good luck!

There ya go

Did you buy Forester specific swaybars (I assume rear we're talking about)? If you did that's the issue. You will need the WRX/STI rear Whiteline swaybar and WRX/STI mounts. Something like these: Whiteline BSR36Z Heavy Duty Sway Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RN9UQ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Whiteline KBR21-22 Rear Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070I9UF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. For the mounts, use PB blaster or something of the like to loosen the bolts to the frame, let it soak 1-2 days. Trust me on that, bolt snapped for me and it was a serious chore to get it out. You could use the stock WRX or STI swaybar bracket mounts but the Forester ones are too tall when the car is lowered and the Forester specific swaybar doesn't fit with that change from stock height geometry.

EDIT: Found one of the source write ups about this very issue. I went with the beefier Whiteline mounts: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/whiteline-bracket-kit-hitting-control-arm-tab-162857/

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90704-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B000JZKY5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539187126&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Sway+bar+link+2002+tacoma&dpPl=1&dpID=41n-yk5DpWL&ref=plSrch




This thing. I heard chrisfix say the name in a video.

Interesting, the price has gone up to what ExtremeTerrain was selling it for:

Teraflex 1155200 JK 2IN FRONT 1IN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CISU6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Qlink-EMF-Protection-Pendant-Design/dp/B000CSPJWY

She also uses tons of essential oils, himalayan salt lamps, basically ANYTHING that has some feel good principals about it keeping you cancer free, etc then she is on board with it because Big Pharma, doctors, etc are evil. She goes to only Naturopathic doctors - which in our state are not legally recognized.

Blows my mind how gullible she is - she will believe the anti-vax guy who had his medical license revoked, but true medical science she says is unbelievable and "fake news" essentially.