Best bike shifters & parts according to redditors

For anyone interested, I was able to keep the cost super low for three main reasons:

1. Microshift brifters. 3x7 set was $55.00 on Amazon.
   https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
   
   
2. Lucky enough to have a bike co-op in my town - sold me the handlebars and stem for $15.
   
   
3. Lucked out on my first craigslist bike (1992 Diamondback Override for $40), which I purchased with very little research or knowledge at the time. After I decided to go ahead with the conversion against the advice of most of the internet, I read everything Sheldon Brown has written about cable pull. Turned out I had no compatibility issues going from mountain brakes/shifters to road brifters since I have cantilever brakes. Had I wound up with a different bike it could have been a different story. Also was able to keep original derailleurs.

Honestly, I wouldn't bother moving from 3x8. New derailleurs etc will over-capitalize the bike for no real benefit. Would however remove and bin the grip shifters and replace with Shimano ef51 shifter/brake combo units for a much nicer riding experience, and would maybe also think about some new V-Brake units like these Shimano br-t4000, do some new cables/housing and maybe a new BB.

For the fork, something like the Surly Pack Rat (I think yours is a 1 1/8) would be an option. In terms of riding position, I would swap in a shorter 50mm-60mm stem instead of what looks like a 110mm (as u/miasmic said). and mess around with the spacer arrangement.

These alterations, EF51 click shifters, newer/stiffer V-Brakes, new cables and cockpit re-arrangement, should rejuvenate the bike significantly.

Here's how you'd price it out at a bare minimum, it won't be "cheap" and ultimately if you end up getting more invested in the sport then you'll want to move on to a dedicated road bike anyway. Here are some of the lowest priced options to do this.

Shimano Tourney Shifters $80

Drop Handlebars $25

Shift Cable Set $9

Bar Tape $7

Problem Solvers Travel Agents $18

Stem $15

Total: $154 + Shipping,
Additionally a set of allen keys if you don't have those.

Looks like Microshift knockoffs? Which is weird, since Microshift is already kind of the knockoff brand. Might be worth it to just get the name brand knockoffs.

They would likely be a problem. The thing with most modern handlebars is the tube diameter gets larger closer to the stem so you wouldn't be able to mount them up top and if you could they likely wouldn't clear the space in between the drop section. You could mount them on the bottom of the drop bars but this would be awkward and could easily result in a crash. You are best off getting drop bar specific brake/shifter combo or "brifters". Since it is a 7x3 speed bike you will be limited for shifters and will have to get the Shimano Tourney brake/shifter set like here or a MicroShift set.

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

If you can spare another ten dollars, these basic sunrace shifters should work for that bike, there's a few different variations so you can measure your tubing to be sure.

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Sunrace cassette 9-speed 11-40T CSM990 wide ratio (Sliver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTX8J3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_E5aLEH7DMDO1P

> I figured adding a Drop Handle Bar will help me but don't wanted to spend more $

Depends on whether you think buying bars, cable+housing, possibly a stem, and these shifters:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A070-Shifters-7-Speed-Black/dp/B007Q4MM1I

is low cost enough.

For example, any reason why this wouldn’t work?
microSHIFT Shifters 3X7 Speed SB-R473 Trip Shift Lever Brake Derailleur Road Bike Bicycle Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011IL1EP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QXUVAbP1JQVHF

You can get a friction shifter, which is non-indexed. That way you can use whatever number of gears you want without having to worry about it again.

Shifting is more clunky with a friction shifter, but once you get used to it it's fine. As a bonus it's easier to sweep gears faster.. so if you are in a high gear and need to come to a quick stop, you can shift all the way to the lowest/tallest gear really quick.

I use this style:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/

They use a cheap and ugly clamp, but you can take it on and off without removing your other stuff. Also works with whatever style of handle bars you have.

Shifter: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-4700-Tiagra-Control-Shift/dp/B00YGY8JX6

Handlebars will be $50 roughly.

Wheel truing can be done by your local shop. Probably $20-30. Do the rest yourself at home and throw on some new bar tape, you'll end up around $200. It's worth it. Even if you have the shop do it all and pay say $300, still worth it.

Your cheapest option is to replace them with a pair of the 2013 Sora brifters. They've got the two paddle design that lets you shift in the drops. They're also 9-speed so nothing else will need to be changed.

If you've got 2 chainrings then these are what you would need: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-3500-Shifter-Brake-Lever/dp/B007Q4MRR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368836722&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+Sora+Shifters+2013

If you've got 3 chainrings then: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-3500-Shifter-Brake-Lever/dp/B007Q4MN9O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368836722&sr=8-3&keywords=Shimano+Sora+Shifters+2013

I used a Shimano kit on my wife's bike and a Jagwire kit on mine - both came with boots.

Shimano:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Dura-Cable-Sleeve-Black/dp/B01F1GYYU4

Jagwire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4NJME/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check out the Microsoft brifters, they've gotten some pretty good reviews and can be had new for 55 usd. They are compatible with any 3x7 as far as I know. I've been eyeing them to replace the stem shifters on my hunk of junk.

https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4

Edit: again with the autocorrect

Shimano m310 3x7 shifters.

> they wouldn't work as fixed.

oh yeah?

http://sheldonbrown.com/asc.html

http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ

3x7? Tourney or RSX

THE WRENCHER: buy some cheap friction shifters. Use the brakes levers in the kit. Be happy.

Just ride it til it breaks, then if you like it and maybe have gotten in better shape a little you can buy a nicer bike. In the end you will need something like a trail or all-mountain bike.



If this is your bike



http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Raleigh&Model=M40&Type=bike



or close, and its the right shifter thats busted you could probably try this



http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6



Your local bike shop could probably help you too. I am not talking about some big chain shop, I'm referring to a good mom and pop or small local chain.


Good Luck

I recently just did exactly what you want to do. I'll link the parts I used and bought off of amazon. Bar end shifters, drop bars and drop bar brake levers for V brakes. I bought cable and housing for brakes and bar tape from LBS but you could just get that from amazon as well. The shifters come with cable and a few pieces of housing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5EFOC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IORJVU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4UHF6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Edit: just noticed you said you needed 9 gears in the rear so the shifters I linked wont work but you should be able to find some that would on amazon. My Sirrus only has 8 gears in the rear.

So, you're kinda going down a rabbit hole here.

First: Most 7-speed freehubs use Uniglide cassettes, with a threaded small cog instead of a threaded lockring. The only 126mm OLD hub I can think of off the top of my head that fit a modern Hyperglide cassette is the FH-1055 rear hub from the 105SC group. If you're OK with freewheels or vintage Uniglide cassettes, your options will open up considerably.

You're also going to need a new derailleur... The cable pull ratio of your SunTour Accushift does not match the cable pull of those Microshift brifters. Any 6-9 speed Shimano derailleur, pre-9-speed Dura Ace exluded will work with those, so you should be able to find a suitably vintage looking derailleur to match your bike.

Finally... if you're trying to build a bike to "crush the MAMILs... as a rebuke to their carbon/lycra obession", why aren't you going full L'Eroica with your bike? I'm really curious about the decision making process behind which parts you want to keep vintage and which ones you're willing to modernize. (and an aside: I'm plenty fuckin' fast without a carbon fork and shifting by feel instead of through clicks.)

I'm guessing it's 3x7 and has shimano derailleurs. These should work fine. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346023960&sr=8-2&keywords=acera+shifters


http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-3-Speed/dp/B003YSS8TK/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y

Hmmm, not a lot to say and nothing fancy. I bought the bike in Summer of 2011 after my earlier bike was stolen from the family garage. It originally had the Fuji factory bar with a slight rise and separate Shimano brakes, rapid fire shifters and the 'meh' hand grips.

Summer 2012, everything on the original handlebar including the bar itself was stolen overnight while the bike was rack locked and I was upstairs in a beach condo. F**king theives!

I replaced handlebar with a Ritchey https://ritcheylogic.com/comp-sc-rizer-mountain-bar
and outfitted it with Shimano combo brake/shifters https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ST-EF51-Brake-Shifter-Levers/dp/B00MUCN0MG
I got the standard Ergon GP1 grips and separate climbing bars wrapped in bar tape. It's not the best of setups, I should have gotten the GP5 model https://www.rei.com/product/884447/ergon-gp5-handlebar-grips . The bar is too wide even for a big guy like me (6'1" and 250 lbs.) So, I cut off about 3/4 of an inch from the bar ends to narrow my arm position. The Topeak bag on top is great for often used items (wallet, phone, gel packs, keys, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Compact-Handle-Bar-Bag/dp/B001T2U1FM/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495644165&sr=1-2&keywords=topeak+handlebar+bag

That's probably WAY more then you wanted to know. But it is a REALLY comfortable ride and has served me well. For a second trip, I replaced the seat tube with an Uno compressor seat post and the saddle with a Selle SMP TRK. So Butt fatigue is completely gone. ;)

You can buy just the cable pretty cheap

Pretty much anything Shimano will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SL-M310-Shifter-Trigger-Levers/dp/B01E4VQTYQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+shifter+3x7&qid=1573585945&sr=8-4 would work

Or if you're a gripshift fan: https://www.amazon.com/Paraout-Shimano-Cycling-RevoShift-Shifter/dp/B07GNMX5BP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+shifter+3x7&qid=1573585978&sr=8-1

If you want something really cheap but annoying to use:https://www.amazon.com/Paraout-Tourney-SL-TX30-Shifter-Levers/dp/B07GNM33CK/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+shifter+3x7&qid=1573586161&sr=8-15

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

inexpensive brifters

(And that's brand-new; OP could probably find some used 3x7 brifters on Craigslist for $20 or so if he was patient enough.)

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

inexpensive brifters

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I got some downtube shifters from amazon pretty cheap, and they've been working great for me so far.

They look cheap, because they are cheap, but I liked them more than my stem shifters. I didn't want to disassemble my stem shifters to put on this bracket, but you probably could if you wanted.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLR03-Friction-Stem-Shifter/dp/B0084UHAJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449807462&sr=8-2&keywords=Downtube+shifters

EDIT: they even came with cables

Edit: Saw the 9 speed. Nevermind about buying take off 105 stuff. Those Sora ones will work.

Go ahead and buy new brake and derailleur cables, as well as housings. A full kit will set you back $35: http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Complete-Brake-Derailleur-Black/dp/B001C4NJME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568415&sr=8-1&keywords=jagwire+road+kit

Buy some new bar tape: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=road%20bar%20tape&sprefix=road+bar+t%2Caps

Then read up on youtube on how to do this. It's fairly straightforward. Your hardest part is going to be cutting the housing. The brake housing requires a diagonal cut, while the shifter housing is a straight cut. If you don't have a cable cutter, use a dremel, or find a friend with a cable/housing cutter.

That's a very misleading description. I'd only order the 3503 if you need the triple. Here is the listing for a 3x9.

My GF has these on her Specialized Dolce Sport and they are very crisp and comfortable.

First off love your bike dude

Second off i love this $8 shifter set from amazon. Not bar end though, but work great on all shifters https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501644368&sr=1-1&keywords=friction+shifters comes with cables n housings too

not really bar end but maybe you could mount them on the bar end?

Either way love the bike just htought i'd mention it because you said you are $ conerned

I did not expect that your lever literally broke off. In my experience, most people who complain of broken shifters have either a bent derailleur hanger or really weirdly routed cables.

Those are simple thumb shifters that you have, and any community bicycle cooperative will have used ones for a dollar or two in a bin.

https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations

But they'll probably break the same way.

If you're out to spend minimal money and get something new and serviceable, here are a set of SunRace aluminum shifters. They're friction shifters, so they don't click into gear. Judging by the dials on your shifters not numbering the gears, I'd assume your current shifters do a micro-clicky motion when you change gears; the SunRace ones would be a more fluid motion.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86

Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

Are you talking about stem shifters?

I just got a new bike myself. Layered security seems best on top of your insurance. Good locks and layers make your bike a hassle to steal.

1. Use a cover whenever you can. Not being able to see what you bike is exactly is or what security is on it help a good bit. Cost : 30-80 USD
   
   
2. Quality Disk Break with alarm and good lock. Abus Granit Detecto X-Plus 8077 was my choice. Cost : 180 USD plus $10 for a bright colored lanyard to run from the lock to the handle bar.
   
   
3. Quality lock and chain. I went with Abus again. ABUS 37RK/80 KD Granit Extreme Lock and ABUS 14KS 6' Maximum Security Square Chain and Sleeve, 9/16" Diameter Chain Link. Cost : 130 USD and 110 USD.
   
   I have a covered car port and I lock the bike to the steel support beam. I take the disk lock alarm with me where ever I go under the seat and leave the chain locked to the pole when not in use.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUKQHEG
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GE9H8W
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMCCZO
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZN6M0

If it's using bar-end shifters and doesn't have bosses for downtube shifters, your best bet is going to be to use some friction thumb shifters. Unless it already has indexed shifting, the chances of an indexed shifter working on the existing derailleurs is pretty low.

> Disk locks are pretty effective the downside is youll inevitably forget its on and try and go with it on probably dropping your bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Security-Reminder-Cable/dp/B0022ZN6M0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=reminder+cable&qid=1562610368&s=gateway&sr=8-3

every time

link to what was looking at https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-Tourney-7-Speed-Triple-Lever/dp/B00GQCC9A0/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=shimano+7+speed+sti&qid=1556179209&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Would you happen to know if these are actually double and triple compatible as the Amazon product specs say?

On Shimano's site it says the 3500 are double, and the 3503 are triple, so I'm guessing they're not?

Available on Amazon!

Name: "SHIFTER FBK NUVINCI HB MANUAL C8 TWIST RH SL 2250mm f/N360/N380"

$52.47

Purchase Link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTDST0F

You definitely need something there in order to get the shifters going. You can either use the drop down shifters, which I have found for decent prices on ebay, but also some at exorbitant prices. Like I have bought some 105 7-speed and dura ace 6-speed each for less than $10 but some people slap 'classic' or 'rare' on it and charge $50-100. You can also get some of these without buying the shift lever bosses, but it has to be the right diameter for the down tube, and I'm thinking the r300 tube is too narrow for that bike. But, measure so that you know for sure.

Also, what type of rear derailleur is on there? This will determine the type of shifters you get. The ones linked are 8-speed shifters, but I use with a 7-speed rear derailleur by locking out the last cog. It looks like you have an RSX on there that is 7-speed, but if you can find the model number, you can confirm this for sure.

Also, you can get these that screw on to the shift lever bosses so that you can run brifters like these. I did this on an old bike that had shift bosses for drop-downs, and it worked out nicely and was relatively simple, and the linked brifters came with cables. Or, you could always change the bar to a flat one and get something more economical from the mountain line, and the flat bar may be an easier ride if your dad is older.

Hope it helps!

I want to get a 3 speed fixed hub for my commuter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042R50QQ?pc_redir=1395216240&robot_redir=1

yeah, with the road link PLUS a long cage rear derailleur, you could run something like this for a low gearing cassette: https://www.amazon.com/cassette-Freewheel-derailleur-extender-JGbike/dp/B01MTX8J3H/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1525739460&sr=8-19&keywords=9+speed+cassette


prob overkill! lol but it's doable, just gotta find a long cage rear der that plays nice with your shifter. Totally doable though.

I'm interested in replacing the brake levers and gear shifters on my road bike with a brake/shifter combo. I've linked one I've been looking at on Amazon below. What I'm curious about, is how do I know if it will be compatible with my bike? It's a 21-speed, but I'm not sure what qualities I should be looking for to find a pair that will work. The bikesdirect link is to my bike.


Any suggestions about a good shifter to get and what to look out for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011IL1EP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519154351&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microshift&dpPl=1&dpID=417kpRtm-wL&ref=plSrch


http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm

Yeah, I've decided to go that route. It's significantly cheaper and way less effort to just get friction shifters and new brake levers (since the current shifters are a combo). I just wish I could find a set of friction shifters I like :-/ Amazon is lacking in their selection. I want something that's of decent quality no more than $20-30 and grey/black. I've got these in my cart, and they look like they may be kindof cheap (though they have good reviews) and I don't have red anywhere else on my bike so it kindof bugs me that they're that color. I'd like to find shifters that match my new brake levers.

I'm guessing the $40 saddle is a take off from another bike that someone swapped out.

$26 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUCN0MG

The hanger is a good price.

Put the saved money into a better than stock saddle and do it yourself. You'll learn something new and you're bike will be better in the end.

Edit: I don't think the end price from the shop is unreasonable.

When I bought my Ultegra Bar Ends from Amazon, they came with the cable stops.

Here's what I started with.

This is how it ended up.

Obligatory full bike shot. Sorry, didn't think to put the chain on the big ring.

It's a cable to remind you not to ride off with the !@#$ disc lock still on.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-340102-Disc-Lock-Reminder/dp/B0022ZN6M0

If you don't already have one, you might consider a disc lock with an alarm. (And if you have a disc lock, don't forget the Disc Lock Reminder. Last thing you want to do is forget you have a disc lock on.)


If you already know all this, please disregard but otherwise:

Parking in Chicago has some advantages for being on a motorcycle. One is, all those Permit parking zones with the "you must have permit ### to park here"... Yea, we can ignore those and park there.

We're supposed to park 90 degrees to the curb.

Sometimes there is enough space between no parking zones, and metered parking zones that a motorcycle can fit an avoid paying for parking and not getting a ticket. Sometimes they get the ticket anyways and have to submit a picture to prove they weren't violating those areas. I've never done this, but seen plenty of examples here in Reddit.

These shifters(www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/) will work fine assuming that there's nothing wrong with the derailleurs. As the previous reply stated, it could also just be friction between the cables and housing.

or better yet, get the Shimano Tourney A070

>Edit: Can I swap out just the front shifters with these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPVUMOY/ref=twister_B00L096XLU?th=1&psc=1.
Will this work with sora front and rear derailuer?

No. That is a 11-speed shifter. It works with a 11-speed chain and a 11-speed rear cassette.

Please tell me EXACTLY which model Sora she has. Sora has been around for over 15 years in different varieties. Current Sora is 9-speed. I know the 8-speed Sora shifters had reach adjustment. There's a screw at the top of the hoods...if you tighten them, you reduce the reach which would help you wife.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

You may want to look at getting these to replace your shifters. I know that I had issues with the A050 shifters in that my knees were hitting them, and changing gears on me, whenever I would stand to climb.

>https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4

These say 3x7 though...

Just remembered something else that you didn't have questions about, but that you'll want to know about: cables and housing. If you don't already have a set in mind, I'd recommend looking at a Jagwire Racer set--very good for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A070-Shifters-7-Speed-Black/dp/B007Q4MM1I

They still make them.

Not sure if you have a 10-speed 105 rear derailleur or 11-speed, but here is what you need:

If you have 10 speed: Shimano 105 5700 10-speed shifters

If you have 11 speed: Shimano 105 5800 11-speed shifters

The prices are a bit expensive on amazon, you can probably get the shifters on Ebay for ~$100.

As for the brakes.. assuming you have rim brakes, those can be brand-mixed easily with no issues.

Any shop can build up a 3 speed fixed wheel for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ

It would help us understand your options if you could point out what your dropout looks like from this image.

http://sheldonbrown.com/images/dropf-short.gif

I was a student too, but I forked out a bit of money for shifters like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-SL-BS64-Ultegra-Shifter-8-Speed/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540826780&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=bar+end+shifters+7%2F8+speed


I found some non-indexed shifters for less than $80 on sale and you might be able to as well. They are a LOT nicer than downtube shifters IMO, and they are compatible with any cassette or freewheel (up to a point).