That's a great bike to start with. I started off with a bike in much worse condition.

I usually start off by giving the bike a quick wash. Just water and some dish soap to get off all dust and loose dirt. After that I dry it with an old towel.

Then comes the tear down. I put it on my stand and remove the wheels and set them aside. Then I just start cutting off all the cables (brakes and derailleur). After that, the chain gets it. I use the Park chain tool.

Then its on to removing the derailleurs, cranks, stem/bars, brakes, etc. Rear derailleurs are mostly removable with a 5mm allen wrench. Front derailleurs, too, although some of the older ones may just have a hex head. The seat post binder bolt is usually 5mm, also. Hopefully it isn't stuck. If it is, just come back and ask for methods.

Onto the stem and handlebars. To remove the stem, just loosen up the bolt up top a couple turns and tap it with a hammer and hopefully it slides out without a fight. Then remove the brake levers from the bar, then the bar from the stem.

I use this tool for the allen bolts. Park AWS 10

To remove the pedals from the cranks, I use a snap-on 15mm wrench. Remember, the pedal on the left side is reverse-threaded.

The bolt (or nut) on the crank arms is most likely 14mm and on much older bikes sometimes 15mm. I use a 14mm socket with a ratchet.

Removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle can be a pain sometimes. The tool to remove them is a crank puller. I use the park ccp-22. Make sure the threads are clean on the crank apply a little grease on the tool. Try to make the tool screw in the most it can and don't cross-thread. Aim to get the tool to bottom-out on the crank. Then you start spinning the handle and then you'll get a little workout on your arms.

By this point I usually just have a frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket left. I'm tired so I'll just stop typing for now, heh.

Ask If you need any help. Someone will gladly help you here and see if you have a local bike co-op/ kitchen nearby. They could be a great asset.

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Rim Tape (no link because all of my rims have come with tape already installed.

Valve stems with removable core.

Core Removal Tool.

Orange Seal

Tire pump or air compressor to set the bead. I was able to set the bead on my new tires & rims with just the tire pump. On my first wheelset I had to use a compressor to set the bead on 2 different brands of tires. YMMV.

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

Agreed. My dad's carried a small chain breaker on him for the better part of a decade and I can't say I've ever seen or heard about him using it. I think building this around a 15mm wrench would be more useful IMO. This has socket wrench capabilities, but it doesn't look like the sockets actually fit into the kit so that just takes up more space.

And TIL that this is a thing.

Remove the 8mm bolt on each side, then use an ISIS/Octalink-style crank arm puller (or get one that does both ISIS/Octalink and square taper) to remove the arms. Use a Shimano Hollowtech style BB tool (i.e. Park BBT-9) to remove the BB cups. Replacement BB is a Truvativ Howitzer. You'll need to check the chain line number - it should be printed somewhere on the old BB, or you can measure it yourself. It's the distance between the center of the seat tube and the center of the chainring - should be either 51mm or 56mm.

I use the Jagwire pro - still not super cheap but it works every time, and the little awl to open up ends of housing is handy.

Q-Factor refers to the width between the pedal threads, basically how far apart your feet are. Since you are neither getting a SRAM crankset with different Q-factors, or a Shimano double, you have nothing to worry about in this regard.

For tools, get the Park Tool BBT-9, as this will allow you to remove the bottom bracket and set the preload on the cranks. Here's a video for install of the crank, and install of the bottom bracket.

You'll probably need:

• Lockring wrench
  
• Crank remover
  
• Bottom Bracket Remover
  
  • However bottom bracket tool depends on the type of BB. I linked a Shimano sealed cartridge.
    
• Chain tool because if you change cog/chainring, you will have to add/remove links to your chain
  
  Park Tools is basically the Canon/Nikon of bike tools; always quality parts and they won't break down on you.

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

Any chain whip that has a 3/32" width chain will do. A well known brand of bike tools is Park Tool. Their general tools (regular wrenches, hex keys, etc) are a little overpriced, but their bike specific tools are often recommended.

The brand of your bike tells us nothing about the make of the drivetrain unfortunately. I expect that your cassette and lockring are either SRAM or Shimano though. So long as your drivetrain isn't Campy, almost all cassette removal tools will be compatible with SRAM, Shimano, and lesser known brands.

Here's what I currently use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHPPOVM/ . $12 and it gets the job done. So long as you aren't mindlessly overtightening the lockring and ensuring the removal tool and chainwhip are fully engaged on their respective surfaces, I don't see a need to spend a lot of money on the tools.

Not a big fan of CT-3.2 that /u/pluckythewhale just linked to. See if you can get the older CT-3 if you're not working on 11 speed chains. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Professional-CT-3-Compatible/dp/B000OZBIPW as one place you can get that one.

Tire levers aren't fancy tools. They cost under $4 and wont damage your rim like a flat head screw driver can, and are less likely to damage a tube.

So no offense, but it doesn't sound like you are too experienced with bicycles. Which is fine. Its wonderful. But if that's the case, why not ride it around as a geared bike before you decide whether you need to convert it?

And no one has mentioned it yet, but if you intend to change the cranks you will need a crank puller. You'll need a chain breaker to replace the chain. Make sure you have metric wrenches for the wheels (probably 15mm). And an allen set for the handlebars.

If you are buying bullhorn handlebars you might have a little trouble with the stem. In the picture it looks like it has a quill stem with a clamp. The curves of a bullhorn can be a little tricky, you'll have to spread the clamp pretty well. And make sure you buy the appropriate diameter handlebar (25.4 vs 26.0 vs 31.8).

To tighten the lock ring you'll need a lock ring spanner, [I bought this one](Park Tool Head-Gear Lockring Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PTVDP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6B.pxb31DDM07) are you sure you ordered a BBS02 that is the correct width? I'm sure more of us here could help if you can give us some pictures! If the lock ring already can thread on, you can always go to a hardware store to get some longer fasteners :)

If I can make a suggestion, you should get a multi-tool, some spare tubes, tire levers and a C02 inflator and put them in a saddle bag that stays on the bike. Look for a multi-tool with a chain breaker like this one and get some KMC master links, that way if you ever have trouble with the chain you can fix it roadside.

Might not be a big deal when tooling around campus (I wouldn't leave a saddle bag on there it might get stolen), but if you're out riding the roads on weekends and are 25 miles from your house and get a flat like I was the other week... well it pays to be prepared. :)

I've had these calipers on a couple of bikes, a Raleigh in the 70s being the best. Someone mentioned swapping rims for alloys, if you have steel rims currently, and this is good advice. Try some Kool Stop pads, and grab an Ice Toolz 4th hand cable puller in order to properly adjust the brakes...

Chain tool to join the links of your chains that you take off.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

As others have said, buying what you actually need would be a better deal.

3-6mm Hex wrenches and basic screwdrivers account for probably 75% of day-to-day repairs/adjustments. A torque wrench is great and needed for carbon bits, but given you have have a low end road bike, there's less to worry about.

​

If you're swapping out the crankset, you'll need to determine what type of crankset you have - If it's the stock Sora one, it probably has a hollowtech II crank which is 2 hex bolts and you'll need this tool to remove the end cap and bottom bracket -

​

If I were buying new, here's the list I'd get

Hollowtech Bottom Bracket / Crank Tool

Hex Wrench Set

Chain Whip

Cassette Lockring Removal

Chain Breaker

Cable Cutters

Quick Link Removal Tool

Chain Checker

Torque Wrench

​

​

For cleaning, go to Home Depot/Lowes, buy some Orange Citrus cleaner and a bunch of cheap shop rags. Or if you're daring, I learned mineral spirits takes all grease off...

It doesn't take big-ass cutters to cut a cable. I could do almost any cable lock on the market with a pair of these - you just bend it and nibble through the outside of the bend a few strands at a time. Takes all of 5 seconds and would be much easier to conceal while using (and lighter to carry) than bolt cutters.

I think maybe bike tool makers have wised up to this - the old school jagwire cutters I have from 2003 or so have more reach to the jaws and can take on even larger cables.

A chainwhip and cassette tool is all you need as /u/Spaiduhz said.

If you buy the trainer from a bike shop I'm sure they'd be willing to install it for you or let you use their tool as it should only take a minute or two to swap the cassette (and you'd be spending a good chunk of money with them). Linked are Park Tools tools, but you'd be fine with a $5 chainwhip if you end up buying it as it's not exactly a frequently used tool (and Park stuff is overpriced).

As for the spacer, I believe most trainers come with some if I'm not mistaken (or you could get some off amazon, of course)...

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-MLP-1-2-Chain-Pliers/dp/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427817993&sr=8-1&keywords=MLP-1.2

Easily worth the money, especially on new chains with tight powerlinks.

You'll probably need a crank puller and a BB socket wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CWP-7-Compact-Puller/dp/B01EONTN2O

https://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-Bracket-BC-Bicycle-Company/dp/B075JWKZVM

That BB wrench needs either a 1/2" square drive or a big-ass wrench.

Any standard Shimano compatible shifter cable will work. Stainless is always better than galvanized. Doesn't need to be Shimano brand, you could use Jagwire or whatever they have in the bulk boxes at your LBS.

Don't use Campagnolo cables, those are some proprietary nonsense. Ever so slightly different.

There's also some older styles of cables used for old internally geared hub shifters and some random downtube shifters. The flat part of the cable end on these is parallel to the cable, not perpendicular like all modern shifter cables. They are much more rare, generally a pain to track down when you need em.

I love love love these cutters. The awl built into the handle works wonders for opening up your cut housing. I don't know of any cheaper cutters I could recommend, but then again, I haven't used any other cutters in a very long time.

Edit: Oh, and if your bike isn't ridiculously huge or a tandem or something else crazy, normal length cables are gonna be just fine. The XTR (or any other MTB cables) stuff is probably gonna come with a longer length of housing because many MTBs run a fully or mostly enclosed system to prevent mud from clogging things up. Most road bikes have much more cable exposed and thus need less housing.

Don't forget a proper cable cutter. You may also need some master link pliersAlso some hair spray to get the grips on without a battle.

I have used a lock ring spanner before and put a chunk of something in the 'heel' end to fill in the space. Like this one says it goes down to 41 but with a small block of wood it might just work. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Head-Gear-Lockring-Wrench/dp/B002PTVDP0

oh, that doesn't sound too good. you should tighten up the ring that holds them in place. you probably need a cassette tool to do this (like this). or take it in to a shop.

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

I've got a tool for my Honda to help with this. I'd guess theres one in 12mm as well. Makes this job so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/10mm-Honda-Valve-Adjustment-Tool/dp/B004QK2APS&ved=2ahUKEwj99-CMsqLeAhXqwVQKHfUbAZAQFjAAegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw33rc3Tlu-7oEoTcWGTRfDZ

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

​

Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

​

​

Here you go then, just from one of the websites and then compared to Amazon.

Chain Break Tool, perfectly OK for home use.

Amazon equivalent

You will probably want link pliers to put chains together

Amazon equivalent. I own the BBB version, which is probably from the same factory in China and in my case has done hundreds of chains.

Basic pedal wrench that can do most variations

Amazon didn't show an all in one, so either the hex version or the 15 mm version depending on your pedals

I'm not a huge fan of multi-tools for home use, they tend to be a bit fiddly, I would seriously consider a nice T-hex key set or if you want the extra leverage L-keys offer, but with the comfort/ease of use T keys have, then a P handle set

Be sure to check them again after you get them all set. Sometimes the screw will turn a bit and throw the adjustment off while you’re tightening the nut.

Also, there’s a sequence to tightening the nuts that hold the valve cover down. (I didn’t know that the first time, thought I’d mention it)

They sell a “special tool”, it’s basically a screwdriver and wrench combined. Works perfectly for this job. I’ve done it several times with basic tools, but this thing helps.
Amazon link

I don’t think I paid that much for mine. Same google search had them for $13 at home depot

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

Please note that the links provided are just quick-n-dirty suggestions. Some of the Park Tool sets would cover a lot of these things, but when building from frameset up... you may want to seek out a shop with the odd tools you might only use once or twice in your life.

----

Aside from the standard tools, like box wrenches, cone wrenches, Allen wrenches (aka hex keys), flathead and Phillips head drivers, Grease... you'll need tools for:

• seating the fork race
  
• installing the bottom bracket (or press fit or one of a few other types?)
  
• cutting cable & cable housing
  
  In addition, you may need:
  
  
• adjustable crescent wrenches
  
• facing and chasing the BB threads
  
• at least a 5 nM torqe wrench, perhaps a 6 nM as well
  
• chainwhip tool
  
• spoke nipple wrench
  
  ----
  I'm sure you could "get away" with less, or perhaps the Park Tool Advanced Kit but there's a reason for these tools. Good luck.

Standard Shimano cassette tool.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX3E08Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uZGZDbEAJGQS8

You upgrade the drivetrain at all? The NX deraileur is driving me bonkers. I am continuously farting with it. I've got these in my cart right now, but will probably wait a bit to pull the trigger. Not really sure the GX is that much of an upgrade ? Maybe go to Shimano? Heck, I dunno.

My cart

I need to find out what I'm doing with my 2 kids during winter break. Single dad here. Depending on whether grandma takes them for a couple days, I may have to stick them in a gymnastics camp or something. Could get expensive :-/

OP, to chain a cassette you'll need a chain whip and a cassette tool. Total cost for the two tools is about $30, but you can go cheaper if you buy off-brand tools instead of Park Tool.

You'll want BBT-22 Bottom Bracket Tool or
BBT-32 for removing the bottom bracket.

A crank puller to pull the crank arms off of the bottom bracket Park Tool CWP-7

And whatever size hex key/wrench works (edit: 8mm). Probably worth getting a set of hex keys if you don't already.

2 things:

• Wrap the place where you're going to put the sensor in a piece of rubber, like a doubled section of tube, not only will this protect the paint, but it'll give the zip ties & sensor something to "sink" into, which should make it harder for them to move.
  
  
• buy a [fourth hand brake tool] (https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Fourth-Hand-Cable-Puller/dp/B0028N57KK). We don't really use them for brakes anymore(because we aren't running caliper brakes anymore, which is a good thing) but they work great for tightening zip ties far better than you can with your hands or pliers.
  
  Also, if it does go into the spokes, I doubt it would cause any damage. you'd just have to readjust it.

You are correct -- the only difference between the 11 speed KICKR and the 10 speed KICKR is the cassette. They even share the same freehub, which is the thing the cassette sits on.

You'll need to replace the 11 speed cassette with a 10 speed one. You will need some special tools to do this, though. Are you having your KICKR delivered to your LBS? If so, I'd have them do the swap. If not, you'll need this (or it's cheaper alternative here), one of [these] these, and a large adjustable wrench.

After you collect those things, here's a nice video showing you how to do the swap. Instructions are the same even for your KICKR.

If you haven't already purchased a new cassette, get the cheapest one. Weight is of no concern for indoor training -- no need to be a "weight weenie." If there's any guidance to be had with choosing a cassette for a KICKR, I'd stick with the same gearing (i.e., if your rear wheel is a 11-25, get an 11-25 for the KICKR. That way there won't be any adjustment issues between the KICKR and your rear wheel.

Everyone here is saying Pedro's levers. I just wanted to throw another option out there if you're interested in metal tire levers. Ice Toolz Steel Levers. Only $7.99 on Amazon

It is the Topeak The Mini Plus 18-Function Bicycle Tool I bought it off of amazon. Here is the link

The chain break tool is tucked nicely in the middle and you can rearrange the tools if you want to. It includes a tire lever, however I would rather stick with my bontager levers.

Core removal tool - http://amzn.com/B001S98NLU
Syringe - http://amzn.com/B002WY12PO

I know a lot of folks like to put in sealant by unseating the tire and pouring it in directly, but I kind of like pulling the core and using the syringe. BTW those are direct links to the product and not affiliate links.

Some people say to just use plyers but I prefer to have the tool so I don't slip and damage the wheel/spokes or malform the core by squeezing too hard and twisting.

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

I'd love to do it myself, though I don't have any of the tools for it, but I figure they're good to have around (I'll likely use them more than just this one time). How do I measure what size the bottom bracket is to get a replacement? Also, would this tool work regardless of the bracket size?

Here is my work bench. At this point, I can build and tear down bikes. I just replace a headset yesterday, and I have all the tools, for example. So, it's probably overkill for most other people. There are a few things I cannot do, and it's because the tools are too exotic, like BB86 press fit bearing remover, threading the threaded fork, etc.

• I started from a Nashbar's deluxe tool kit but I think this one is way better.
  
• A repair stand is really nice to have, and I'd recommend the Feedback sports' stand.
  
• Torque wrench - I bought one from Nashbar.com. Wait until they do 20% or more off day. I also have a 5Nm torque wrench - similar to this one. For handlebar adjustment, this makes life a lot easier. You can get away with just 5Nm one for most cases.
  
• Stanlay locking adjustable wrench. I use this for so many situation, like installing bottom bracket and headset.
  
• Combination and box wrenches - any brand
  
• Ratchet wrenches 8mm - 12mm. Go find cheap ones on ebay. Makes life a lot easier.
  
• Ryobi 18v inflator with SKS presta adapter.
  
• Park tool master linke plier
  
• Progold grease
  
• T9 oil
  
• Wheel stand
  
  I also have Nashbar's crown race installer, remover, headset cup press and remover, and steering tube cutting guide. Head set cup press is rather expensive so unless you are going to service the headset multiple times, it's better to use LBS or bike coop.
  
  
  
  

So I am entering this on behalf of my lovely ladyfriend who happens to be a nail polish fiend.

She loves to paint her nails all sorts of funky ways, and I thought she'd greatly appreciate the attempt :D

1. So for tools, this is my go to. I go everywhere on my bike and this solves ALL of my problems. Pedals too lose, I've got a tool for that. Clips too heavy? Tool for that. Water Bottles coming off? Tool. You get the gist. It's amazingly helpful, I just wish it had a CO2 holder :P
   
   
2. Holly says she likes this one. But she doesn't know why she was made to pick one.
   
   
3. I would like to start budgeting. I work very sporadically as of now, but I graduate in December and I would very much like to control my spending much better once I have a solid flow of income. Either that or I would like to stop biting my nails, but I think that's another thing that will be easier to work on when I'm working steadily.
   
   
4. And tomorrow is a pirate fest, so I will be poppin bottles all day

Obtain this item:

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Made mounting a Gatorskin and a GP4000s on Velocity Deep-V rims humanly possible. Before, I was doing it with some Park Tool levers until my fingers couldn't move anymore. Some tire/rim combinations are just impossible to install/remove any other way!

Edit: My bad! The Kool Stop one is just for installation, try the Crank Bros one for enhanced leverage during both removal and installation:

http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI

My friend got the same wheelset and tire combo as I did, but he used the Crank Bros lever instead of the Kool-Stop to install his Continentals. I believe he's removed a tight tire with it too, so it's been working for him.

I'd recommend getting yourself some bike repair tools, at least the proper equipment to repair a flat. You've probably got most of the tools you need in your multi tool, at least enough to get the wheel off.
I'd say grab yourself a mini-pump, patches, spare tube, [crank tire iron]{http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI} and possibly a small bottle of chain lube.

These have all come in handy quite a few times on my rides, and I never go without them.

One of these should save your thumbs some pain.

sorry for the delay, it is a topeak mini 18, i received it as a gift - i made sure to thank the guy again after using it sunday night too! here is a link on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Mini-Plus-18-Function-Bicycle/dp/B000OO9RCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313684845&sr=8-1

I needed a chain breaking tool, a pedal wrench, a crank puller, and this lockring wrench.

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

• Chain whip
  
  
• Pedal wrench
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Tire levers
  
  
• Crank puller
  
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  
• Bottom bracket tool
  
  This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.

i ride with a pedros trixie tool and one of these everyday: http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Wrencho-Coated/dp/B003M2TLLC

Some Presta valves have removable cores. I know my Kenda tubes have removable cores.

http://www.amazon.com/NoTubes-AS0015-Core-Remover-Tool/dp/B001S98NLU

The following will get you out of most mechanical issues:
workstand
mini ratchet
set of hex bits for ratchet
1-10ish Nm torque wrench
10-100ish Nm torque wrench with adapter for 1/4" drive bits
Park spoke keys
homemade bearing/bb press out of plumbing odds and ends
Park chain checker
Park mini chain tool
Park chain whip
Park master link pliers
Park hollowtech crank cap tool

Buy a floor pump. Pump your tires to the max pressure specified on the sidewall. Give the tires a good squeeze. Get to know what that pressure feels like. Before every ride, you should inspect the tire for any cracks or hazards and, at the very least, check the pressure by feel. Top off the pressure regularly.

In case you flat on the road, pack a seat bag with a spare tube and tire levers. Get a hand pump that attaches to your frame or a CO2 inflator.

Here's a video on changing tubes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwwfV99VV8I

Do they make skinny adjustable wrenches?

If not, the typical width of those is usually bigger than my box end wrenches and I'll be able to use them without a problem.

I'm also going to pick this up. I don't have a need for the bb removal tool or a crank removal tool yet.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B000WY8LNC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1414427723&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=freehub+removal+tool

the tools are around than 50 bucks if you don't buy the name brand stuff.

Bottom bracket tool - $10 https://www.amazon.com/Fantasy-Life-Bicycle-Bracket-Hollowtech/dp/B01LWX9J7S/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=bottom+bracket+tool&qid=1559190402&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Cassette tool - $10

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B000WY8LNC

Chain Whip - $10
Pedal wrench -$10

Chain pin remover - 2 bucks at walmart.

hex keys - should already own

cable cutters - 5 bucks/ should already own
Screwdrivers - should already own
torque wrench - if you want to really be careful with carbon parts. $20

​

Building and tuning a bike only took 5-6 hrs. This is with no knowledge of putting bikes together and just from watching youtube videos. It cost around 150 dollars around my area for a full assembly of a non boxed bike. Its a lot cheaper putting your bike together and investing in tools. The knowledge of building your own bike is invaluable when something does go wrong or breaks.

The first bike i built, i took to the LBS and they checked it out for free. It was pretty damn fun building a bike, so regardless if you're an engineer or not. its not that hard to build a bike. watch a youtube video and you'll see its relatively simple.

> just because I do not have the tools to remove the cassette on the rear wheel

This is so easy to do, and the tools are not that expensive. Pick up a Park FR-5 and a Park SR-1 for < $30 and you'll be able to take your cassette off whenever you need to.

I had JDM legends do the Install and this tool is life changing.

10mm Honda Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QK2APS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Up6zCb62XHRTK

Wrenches and feeler gauges are cheap. As long as your valve cover bolts come off easy it really is easy to do yourself. You might want to get one specialty tool (I had to get it for my 03 SI) for loosening/tightening the valves back up after using the proper feeler gauges. I managed to do this to both my S2000 and my EP3 SI.

Its something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/10mm-Honda-Valve-Adjustment-Tool/dp/B004QK2APS

I found this on the floor next to my bike, don't remember ever seeing it before, and can't find anything that looks broken on my bike. But the notches kind of remind me of the splines on a cassette (e.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B000WY8LNC). Does anyone recognize this thing?

I use pas 99% of the time. Based on my use, a thumb throttle to give some extra boost on a steep climb works perfect, when riding the throttle full time twist is probably better.

I did not have a gear sensor, but installed one after breaking my chain 3 times in a week. (I shift a lot)

For battery you can't go wrong with a shark pack with good Samsung/Panasonic cells.

I use the "52v Mini 3amp Advanced Charger with 3 Position Toggle" from Luna. It works fine, a bit noisy though.

On an old bike buy the brake levers with cutoff sensor built in.

If your shift cables are running in grooves under the bottom bracket instead of cable housing you will need to buy a new shift cable + housing.

What you (probably) need as well:

• Crank puller (Just buy it, a bbs02 kit is not install and forget it.)
  
• BB removal tool (depends on the type, you can have your bike shop do this.)
  
• Depending on the type of pedals you need a special narrow key to remove them.
  
• Lots of zip ties
  
• A bunch of washers with 6mm hole to put between the motor and lock bracket
  
• Green Loctite (put on the bbs02 lock ring and crank bolts)
  
• Some rubber padding (old bike inner tube works) to put between frame and motor
  
• Dielectric grease (to make electric connections waterproof)
  
• Assorted Metric Hex keys (5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
  
• Small Philips head screwdriver.
  
• Optional cable sleeves
  
  

I always bring Tire Levers, a new tube, a bike pump, wallet, & phone (I personally ride with a CamelBak, but you could easily fit this in a small underseat pouch). Plan A is fix the flat. Plan B is call a cab. Although I purchased my stuff at LBS, here's some amazon links:

Tire Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Tire-Lever-Set/dp/B000BR1182/
Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HPG/dp/B005UZO7RM/
Tubes (be sure and get your size!): http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY

It has to be your cassette lockring (as yamancool suggested). If that's too loose then you could very well have play, causing weirdness like that.

For the home mechanic a cassette lockring tool is essential. Grab one of these and make sure your lockring is on tight. You'll also need a chain whip at some point in the future, so you can remove the cassette.

Oh well, bottom brackets are harder to remove then just using a crank arm puller. In fact, the SRAM X5 crank arm installed on the SRAM GXP Bottom brackte just, come off! After that you need a special tool to unscrew the GXP bearing holders. I ordered this to do it:

https://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-BBT-9-Hollowtech-brackets/dp/B000C12BMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887502&sr=8-1&keywords=bbt+9

2 days until BBS02 makes it to Montreal.

I have added some pictures here of the current situation: http://imgur.com/a/kKS8d

The Trek is my road bike, which I bought maybe 5 years ago. In that time I have used it on and off, but have not replaced chain or cassette. I know there is too much grease left after the last time I cleaned the chain on the gears, which I did not notice before I went to take these pictures. I believe it is a 2011, with parts listed here: http://archive.trekbikes.com/ca/en/2011/trek/15#/ca/en/2011/trek/15/details

The Kona is a bike I very recently bought off kijiji for a commuter in Toronto. It is a 2006, though I cannot find the parts online.

I am thinking both chains and cassettes need to be replaced. I am hoping that the chainrings do not. As for the small gears (below the cassette), do those wear out? Do mine need replacing? Can one even tell that by eye?

I am planning on buying the tools and parts to do it myself. Would these be an okay set to pick up? https://www.amazon.ca/Oumers-Sprocket-Remover-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B01KHPPOVM/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1502589393&sr=8-1&keywords=cassette+tool

As for the parts.. I believe my cassette for the Trek is SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed. So I believe I need to match the 11-26 but do I also need to match the PG-950 and SRAM brand? I was hoping perhaps to save some money on the cassette if there is a cheaper (but still okay) brand out there. As for the Jake cassette, I cannot find any information online. I suppose the same question applies regarding the matching. Out of curiosity, if I were to change the gear ratios (whatever they are) to match the Trek, would I need to re-balance the shifter/derailer?

Where on the cassette will the information that I need to match the replacement parts be? Do I need to remove them for that?

As for chains, as long as I match the 9 speed part, I believe I am okay with any chain for both?

Sorry for the long post! Thanks for reading if you are still with me!!

Without seeing your setup I can't add much, but these little things make these jobs simple. Works on brakes as well and it is clutch.

IceToolz Fourth Hand Cable Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N57KK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yo50Db0VYYVTD

I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.

What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.

I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.

That's great. I would bet any LBS would make the switch for you if you bought the kit there or you will need these
This
, probably this but different manufacturers have different ones
, And this guy
the tools are Super worth having but I here you're on a budget. Call up you LBS and see what they say.

I have both a set of Pedro's and a backup set of steel levers in my bag. I reach for Pedro's first, every time. Haven't broken one yet, and (IMHO) plastic levers have less chance of scratching the rim or snagging the tube.

If the wheelset is 700cc then it will fit your road bike. you won't be too wide. Tires is what you will need to be careful with. You will need some spacers if the wheelset is more speeds than 9 speed. You will need a chain whip to remove the cassette and then a tool that allows you to tighten the cassette back down with wrench. I bought both for around 10 bucks. Its super easy to do.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHPPOVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this chain whip and lockring tool and it worked great. Whip, lockring tool and an adjustable wrench and you're set!

I bought some great metal ones on amazon.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028NEHMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most bicycle muliti-tools are a waste of money unless you're riding with a lot of spare parts. All you need is an inexpensive set of allen wrenches for just about everything (except flats) that you might want to fix/adjust while riding. You don't need a spoke wench unless you carry spare spokes, you don't need a chain tool unless you're carrying spare chain pins, etc. A spare tube is a lot more convenient than a patch kit. For changing flats you may or may not (depending on your rims) need some tire levers.

Also, the stuff in kits is usually junk. The plastic tire levers that I've had from kits frequently break, etc.

\ You might also need a spanner (aka wrench) to change flats if you don't have quick-release skewers.

Yes, that's what I carry. Plus this multitool so I can install the links if I need to.

The way I figure, you have to find where the old tire blew out to make sure you know where the hole was and make sure the glass/wire/thorn was cleared from the tire. Once you know where the leak is is on the tube, you may as well patch it. Either I check the tire as the tube is setting, or I use my spare tube and have the now patched one as a backup.

A total blow out one inch rip or so, will not be patchable and so you'll need a full tube. In that case you'll most likely need a tire boot or a piece of cardboard to cover part of the tire.

A mini pump will let you carefully ride the bike, but a larger bike pump and tire gauge means that you can fix the bike and have fully inflated tires. Some of the smaller ones become a real chore despite being rated to 120lbs, but my area has many gas stations, bike shops and places to inflate, so even then you can just get it part of the way and finish the job down the road.

Something like Portland Design Works 3wrencho would be nice, But I just use a standard 15mm wrench. Someday, I'll chop it in half and stow it with a mini cheater bar, but that day has not come yet.