(Part 2) Best bike wheels & accessories according to redditors

Or buy a set of skewers and seat bolt that won't scratch up or damage your frame. You can even get security versions for not much more.

If you're talking about higher end stuff maybe, but not sure if that applies when comparing with very basic/entry level stuff, e.g. Mavic R-Sys are 1295g a pair, but there's plenty of cheap road wheelsets on Amazon etc for 2200g+ a pair like these

Also consider the wheels on Walmart mountain bikes, they have aluminium rims but are ridiculously heavy, and it's far from the case all of that is in the hub and axle.

I was looking into this last year, and I found TreeHugger had the best guide. (Un?)fortunately, your bike is going to look like a good bike to anyone in the know. Proper security is probably going to do you more good than making your bike ugly. Your bike isn't worth that much that you want to spend $400 securing it, so here's a few tips.

First, you can get rid of any quickreleases, in favor of either locking skewers, gravity skewers, or something else that will make taking the tires off more of a pain.

Second, use a u-lock and a cable lock. Both wheels should be secured separately, both to the frame, and at least one of the locks through your bike rack (both should fit, if your u-lock fits right now). The purpose of the two types of locks is to require two types of tools to free your bike from the rack.

Third, get renter's/homeowner's insurance to cover the bike. Should be less than $10 a month, and will give you peace of mind.

Finally, if you just want to prevent people from riding away with your bike, there are.... other... less safe-for-work methods...

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

just a bit cheaper than the most best alternative

Wow. I've never heard of eccentric bottom brackets before - sounds like a really good solution. Do you have any pics of it? The only way I've seen for dealing with it is with that is with an eccentric rear hubs, like this, and they're super expensive and require rebuilding the wheel.

Korrekt, OP fehlt ein Schnellspanner. Solche hier kommen nicht so schnell weg...

You'd be better off with 32 spokes and 3x lacing, something like Shimano hubs on Mavic Open Sport rims. I've got similar on my commuting bike, pretty indestructible and you can easily get any spares if you need.

It took me about two solid weeks of watching my bike like a hawk before I felt secure in leaving it locked up outside of my workplace.

I work as a security guard in a decent sized city and have seen multiple bikes stolen. One thing that the stolen bikes all have in common is that they look nice enough to be on the front page of /r/bicycling .

Once I made my bike look unattractive enough not to be stolen (using an old inner tube as handle bar tape, never cleaning it aside from the drive train, and scratching up the paint in a way that I can easily recognize) I feel confident enough to lock it up outside.

That being said, I still have locking skewers on my wheels, a decent u-lock, and I still get nervous leaving it unattended for more than two hours.

yes! ok, so in that case you want something like this. for example, here is one.

you'll also need the little tool to remove the freewheel so you can transfer it to the new wheel (there's one on the page you linked to in "also buy"). be warned - they can be a real pig to undo. you may also need a "chain whip".

(i should say i am just someone who's owned bikes - i don't work in a bike shop, so you may want to check with someone else. but that's what i'd get.)

A KMC Z Bicycle Bike Chain is like $10 +- and a Sta Tru STW 26 X 1.5 BO Silver Rear Mountain Bike Wheel and get back on the road again.

After looking at it again this set is probably a better option since it's already setup for a single speed and not for multiple gears.. Then you need a gear something like this. That's a freewheel so it assumes that you have front and rear brakes already. I've not personally used these parts so I can't speak to their quality but amazon users like them... You could also talk to a local bike shop and usually they are happy to help.

In that case look into getting a freewheel set by sta tru for about $50 they'll be a little heavy but you should be able to thread your old freewheel (the back cogs) on to it and not have to worry about building out a new drive train.

I don't plan on sinking a ton of money into this bike. I want to keep it super simple because I will just be riding this to and from work every day.

• Wheels
  
  
• Cranks
  
  And that is all I have figured out for this build. This is my first fixed gear.

Delux Model.

El Cheepo.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

You can get reliable wheels for less, like this one. Carry extra spokes and tensioning tools so that you can quickly address truing issues before they're problems, and fix them as soon as failures occur so that they don't turn into major failures.

It's a lower midrange hub from a Giant OEM wheel. Typically these Hubs are manufactured by a Chinese company such as formula, joytech, or novatech. They are solid, although not of particularly exceptional quality. If you're interested in a high quality hub that uses non-cartridge ball bearings like in the GIF, look at Shimano hubs like this Shimano XT.

pretty sure you can get the phil hubs new from amazon for less than $300... http://www.amazon.com/Phil-Wood-High-Flange-Track-Chrome/dp/B001GSMP6M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416376570&sr=8-7&keywords=phil+wood

The thing you're looking for is called an indicator chain, not an indicator spindle. You should be able to tell which one you need based on the type of SA hub you have.

Mark II: http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-Indicator-Chain-Speed/dp/B001CK2G2M

Mark III: http://www.amazon.ca/Sturmey-Archer-Indicator-Chain-Speed/dp/B001IA99E4

I'm assuming your QR lever is one of the type where the cam is integrated into the lever and is one flat piece on the outside. You need a QR like this to be able to use it. It's really easy to change the QR skewer out.

> any 700c wheel would fit

Yes, it does fit. The dropout is 126mm. You can get 700c freewheel hub wheel and it's usually 126mm dropout.

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Weinmann-LP18-Set/dp/B006FCDMT8

700c with cassette is 130mm. You can flex the frame and stick it in. You'd probably need 4mm spacer for 7 speed cassette to make it work with existing derailleur but it should work.

Most bikes shops should have an inexpensive wheel, like $40-50 range - machine built. I've bought a freewheel hub rear wheel from my LBS for $40, and I think I had an option of 700c or 27".

Removing the freewheel requires a tool/adapter. If you have a busted wheel, if I were you, I'd rather bring the busted wheel and see how much it costs to replace it.

EDIT:

If the original wheel is 27", you'd have to replace BOTH wheels and you have to deal with the brake caliper reach. If you are not lucky, you'd have to replace the brakes to convert from 27" to 700c. So, it gets 'pensive.

Cheaper!

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Release-Skewer-Mounted-Trainers/dp/B0063R2XO0/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422246750&sr=1-2&keywords=rear+skewer&pebp=1422246767930&peasin=B0063R2XO0

Honestly all those trainer skewers are the exact same as old school skewers and you can probably get one from an old lbs off an old bike for free or a few bucks.

Thanks for your feedback! It's a double walled rim (one of these) with a cloth rim strip. The rim is a little deeper than I'm used to, though, so padding a little more might help!

So, XT disk brake model EVEN though I don't have disc brakes on my bike?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FH-M756L-Rear-Disc-6-bolt/dp/B0076CLJB4/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1342006118&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+xt+rear+hub+36h

Thanks for the explanation. So to clarify, the wheelset/hub and the cassette I linked to should be compatible with each other; and I just need to make sure my derailleur works with the cassette?

And just curious, how do you know that my current hub has a freewheel, and how do you know that the new cassette is compatible with the new hub?

Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?

Am I on the right track with these setups below?


Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear

Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

What you will need to look for is a rear wheel with a threaded freewheel hub rather than a cassette hub if you want to use your existing freewheel which is the set of gears on the rear wheel. A freewheel has the ratchet mechanism as part of the gears and threads on to the hub whereas a cassette hub only has splines and the ratchet mechanism is inside the hub.

Removing and installing the freewheel requires a freewheel tool.

A wheel like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Alloy-Freewheel-700X20/dp/B004YJ2GJ6/

Less expensive wheel with single wall rim: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-ST725-Wheel-700X25/dp/B004YJ2MJA

You may want to true the wheel upon arrival whichever one you get.

BTW, what do you mean when you say you broke the rim?

I am building a SS/fix for myself, do you think these are a good buy?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CGE6AE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BN6VH6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1M0ZAMNQSS8SY6N2V5GN

Just measure the width to verify, but this should work....

Here's a set with Mavic for a little more than $100. I haven't shopped wheels for a couple years, but there was a time when everyone was blowing out rim brake Deore wheel sets. A deeper search would probably turn some up. That said, the Mavic/Deore wheels would cost a good $180 in parts. All ya gotta do is seat the spoke heads and tweak the tension. I'd prefer Sun rims over Mavic. Last I checked they can take about 15kgf more tension as the alloy isn't as brittle.

Link

They're a $140 wheelset man, you can't get quality for that. If you're going to get something on the lower end of the cost spectrum I think you'd be better off getting something a brand like Shimano feels comfortable enough to put their name on.

Think about it like this. You're going out to buy vodka and you find a 1 liter bottle of Phillips. Not the best stuff in the world, but you're comfortable with the price, and it'll taste ok mixed with some coke and get the job done. On your way to the register you see a 2 liter bottle of mouthwash for 30% more, and not that pussy no alcohol shit either. Which do you choose? This is how I see the question you posed.

i actually dont have anything to measure the dropout with, i used to have a tape measure but its not around now.

do these wheels work.id like something from amazon so i can get it quick

https://www.amazon.com/Aeromax-Alloy-Wheelset-Road-Wheels/dp/B002XOJD9A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5S6FJ6QKTMME7640T81

If your bike has skewers

phil wood

arguably the best looking hub, and reviews/reports are saying its durable..

if I were to drop 350 on hubs, i'd get wood hubs..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSKVIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526148125&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3+speed+bike+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=31mYWbS7V7L&ref=plSrch

A triple chainring crank will subsequently give you problems in terms of chainline when feeding back to a single sprocket, and using a chain tensioner whilst keeping a coaster brake is not viable. There are IGH options with integral coaster brakes, but again, we're getting into an expensive modification.

It can be done, but I think that after doing $80 on the Shimano Nexus hub kit (incl shifter and 23t sprocket) and then buying 36 appropriate spokes and brass nipples, and then building it represents a significant outlay.

Sturmey Archer also make a 3sp coaster brake hub kit which has a less painful gear range (177% instead of 188%) but is slightly more expensive.

Both hubs I've listed are 36h, and yes probably can be made to work with your existing crankset but you'll need to watch chainline.

It should say on the rear hub what kind it is. Most likely a Sturmey Archer. These things last forever and rarely need to be disassembled. There should be an oil port on it. Flood that thing with 20W motor oil.

You most likely need a new shifter cable and possibly a new indicator chain. Lucky for you they are cheap.

Cable.

Mark I indicator chain.

Mark II Indicator chain.

You may have to shorten the cable housing. Use the one that came with the bike to figure out how much to remove.

If you still have the original indicator chain and it is not too banged up then use that. There are two sizes and you need the correct one for the bike.

Correct indicator chain sizing:
If your axle measures 5 3/4″, the correct indicator is HSA125 (a.k.a. Mark I).
If your axle measures 6 1/4″, the correct indicator is HSA126 (a.k.a. Mark II). You must use the correct size.

Anyway, if your original is good. Use it. Flood that hub with oil. It should overflow. With the indicator chain in, flip the bike over and spin the rear wheel. Pull the chain repeatedly to work that new oil in there. It'll free up any stuck parts.

Attach the cable barrel end to the indicator chain. Shift the shifter to 3. Cable should not be too slack or too tight. Try shifting. If it is too tight loosen the barrel on the cable. If it is too loose, tighten it.

PM me if you have trouble. I have 4 bikes with these.

What do you think about these off amazon for 100?