Best cable gender changers according to redditors

Yes, I have all my cables extended.

Here are the USB cables I use for the sensor camera and HMD USB connections and [here is the HMDI coupler I use] (http://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Female-Coupler/dp/B00CJHXY0U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) plus a generic HDMI 6 feet cable from Monoprice I ordered some time ago (plus my 970 has a mini to norm HDMI dongle too). There is a USB extender cord packaged with the Rift that I use for the Xbox dongle.
Looks like all the dongles and extra cables work just fine.

I routed all the cables to the front so I can easily plug and unplug everything without crawling under the desk and scooting the PC around...

You need to get a Grid Antenna like this (I bought the last one :P) and you'll also need an LNA, preferably, this LNA/Filter hybrid from NooElec.

You will also need an N type male to SMA male (depending on the antenna) if you were to get one like mine.

And yes, you do need an LNA for this. Don't be like me, thinking I could do it without one, had to wait another two days for one :P

After that, i'd recommend you get a stand for the antenna to be mounted on, like a modded tripod. I use an old umbrella stand (super bottom heavy) and a wooden stick from a broken broom.

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

• PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)
  
  
  
  
• Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)
  
  
• Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.
  
  
• Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02
  
  Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.
  
  Cheers!
  
  Edit: additions in bold above

I'd suggest the following:

SO-239 on antenna <-- Male/Male PL-259 Cable (atleast RG8X, and the appropriate length) --> Female SO-239-to-Male-SMA adapter --> Baofeng UV5R

(links provided just for illustration, not for endorsement)

I personally prefer the adapters over a "jumper wire that adapts", as you now have additional length that isn't needed, another piece of wire that could break/short, and jumpers seldomly feel like they give enough of a positive lock to the radio.

Why? Just buy a rf terminator.

DHT Electronics RF coaxial connector adapter SMA male coaxial Termination Loads 1W DC- 3.0GHz 50 ohm Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXUYDMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s-eyDb4BV29KF

? I use acoupler, a standard HDMI cable, and a usb 3.0 extension.

All passive, no powered adapter

This solution will still require you to unplug and replug, however I don't think there are 4k/hdcp 2.2 compatible splitters/switches available yet.

I have the same television and bought these and they work fine. Just keep in mind it can be the only coupler between your tv and ps4. When I first installed I only got audio but no video. Couldn't figure it out. Realized there was a coupler where my hdmi enters the wall before going up to the tv. After taking it out of the equation I ran an inside the wall rated HDMI cable, the coupler worked fine.

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJHXY0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8jmpybGVWAMND

If you want shielded cable, everything needs to be shielded all the way thru.
So you need http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Shielded-Keystone-Couplers/dp/B00IO3HN82/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413568847&sr=8-2&keywords=cat6+shielded+keystone

All patch cables much also be STP.
I have run alot of cables by electrical, and unless its very high power equipment that cyles, there is no real need, especially in a residential environment.

https://www.amazon.com/DHT-Electronics-Handheld-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00COW5E3A/

or similar

a patch panel is a good idea but DONT use pre-made cables and cut the end off for punching down. pre-made cables are typically made of stranded copper and is somewhere between very difficult and next to impossible to get punched down correctly. just get yourself a spool of cat5e or cat6. trimming the ends that plug into your waps is surprisingly easy to do with a little practice and your patch job will go so much smoother with the solid copper.

but... if you have doubts about punching down or terminating an RJ45 end you can always go with a keystone patch panel and some keystone in-line couplers to finish out your panel. that way you don't have to buy an data tools. I'm the kind of guy to go with option a just because I already have everything to do the job but depending on your experience you may just opt for option b

Hi all, thanks for the feedback, I decided to lick my wounds and just buy one one these, I can make the male connections without issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Keystone-Line-Coupler/dp/B00WKPK1B6/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481508850&sr=1-15&keywords=female+to+female+cat+6

thanks for all your help.

Crazepony 5.8G FPV Antenna Panel Pagoda Pro 9.4 dBi High Gain TX RX SMA Female with SMA Cable Adapter for FPV Racing Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074ZG3FM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bf24Cb7V52JHY

DHT Electronics RF coaxial connector adapter SMA male coaxial Termination Loads 1W DC- 3.0GHz 50 ohm Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXUYDMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kg24CbRQGTZ7S

A triple patch antenna works great I have one just like this and it's been working perfectly, you don't have to get this exact brand they're all the same just different colors. So you might be able to find one cheaper. Make sure you get the coaxial connector termination adapter so that you can choose left or right circular polarizing on the back and cancel out the opposite.

If used correctly and within it's limits it's an amazing unit. It only has 101 sample points so it's most accurate when you use it with a narrow bandwidth. If you're building a dipole for 40m for example, set it for 6.5MHz to 7MHz to get an accurate reading. Get the 3rd party software for your computer, nano-vna-saver-v.0.2.0, it makes it much easier to use. As for accuracy, it matches almost exactly with my AIM 4170 on all my antennas from 80m to 2m. Buy a set of SMA to SO239 adapters, the kind with cables so you don't stress the connections on the nanovna board.

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

I actually used this for a while but it's a bit cumbersome.

The simplest solution I found was a HDMI coupler like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJHXY0U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You basically just have two HDMI cables, one from TV to VR box, one from PS4 to VR box.

When you're done with VR, just unplug both cables from the back of the VR and connect them via the coupler.

Just get something like this: 90 degree or 270 degree and you won't need to worry about the whole cable.

I use them and they are great, just make sure they are angled in the direction you need, there are 90 degrees and 270 degrees (with the shorter part of the HDMI port up or down).

I believe this is what you need: link

With the adapter the signal should be much better since everything will actually be connected

If the connector on your antenna is threads inside and small plug hole receptacle inside then I believe that is RP-SMA male. (Example: https://uidesign.gbtcdn.com/gb_blog/601-900/811/Be-an-RC-God-Understanding-FPV-Connectors-SMA-vs-RP-SMA-A01.jpg )

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The VTX pigtail should be SMA female so you would need a SMA male to RP-SMA female adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/HIGHFINE-Coupling-Connector-Repeaters-Extension/dp/B01MDR1GHU/

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one side has threads on inside & prong on inside for the VTX and the other side is threads on outside & prong on inside for the antenna. Does that make sense?

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Yes, it's annoyingly complicated. At least they use standardized, universal fittings though.

Those skinny coax adapters are very lossy. You can also use a hard adapter such as this:
RF coaxial Adapter SMA Male to UHF Female SO-239 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWUMWGK/

Looks like I need to look into that adapter it’s a single unit one (link). I may order a new one or different brand. In the mean time I’ll try to clean out the connector with alcohol and see if that helps.

I found a right angled HDMI adapter that came with my case, and it works if I plug it into that first. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Degree-Female-Adapter/dp/B00CF4G7JC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463969287&sr=8-1&keywords=right+angled+HDMI.

What I effectively meant was buying these items:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Keystone-Line-Coupler/dp/B00WKPK1B6/ref=pd_sim_23_92?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7KG188J5T6JDQWF4Y33E

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-20-Pack-Keystone-Inserts/dp/B01AYKR63O/ref=pd_sim_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AYKR63O&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-6-Port-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HF8U/ref=pd_sim_147_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IO3HF8U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Gold-Plated-Keystone/dp/B0100R444U/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0100R444U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

Im thinking of just buying an adapter(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVQP7CW/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PXC5AB6J60IH) and then putting this antenna on (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SA4DK0/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61)

I did the HT in the car with a Tram 1180 for a while. If you do it, get a short, all-metal SMA->SO239. I did the pigtail cable for the SMA to SO239, and eventually the ground braid broke and I blew the finals. Pick up something like this.

Someone suggested an HDMI switch to you, and I don't think that's a good idea. From what I've read, the vast majority of switches do not support HDR.

I took the advice of a different redditor to solve this problem a while back, and in some ways his solution is less complicated. Simply get a female to female connector. One cord from your TV to the connector, and another cord from the connector to your PS4.

When you want to use your PSVR, completely remove the connector and plug both cords into the breakout box. I find it works quite well and it's much easier to get to the cords than it would be if I needed to reach the back of the PlayStation.

This is the connector I bought, and I can confirm it is HDR compatible. This solution is much cheaper too.

The HDMI cable did not work because it was not an active cable. Either get this plus this to maybe solve your problem or get this plus this. I have this cable coming tomorrow so I will know if it will work or not then. I am making a breakout box for my Rift.

OK, I have a piece of advice for you: get a right-angle adapter that will make the stick look like an antenna. I did this with my Roku Stick (3600R) and my wifi reception improved dramatically.

This looks good: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Combo-Degree-Adapter/dp/B00CF4G7JC