(Part 2) Best camera flash accessories according to redditors
We found 777 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash accessories. We ranked the 277 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Sadly, the [$1498 Panasonic GH4] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXB9UME/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LXB9UME&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [$1499 Samsung NX1] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NFDZRRA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00NFDZRRA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) are both above your budget limit (especially when you factor in the cost of lenses).
The two best video cameras in your price range are the [$795 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWLSHUK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CWLSHUK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and the [$698 Panasonic GH3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0WREM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0WREM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (these are sale prices and will probably go up after the holidays).
I own both of these cameras, and both produce awesome video images - but each has its advantages and disadvantages.
If you really want to learn cinematography - and you don't need a still camera, I recommend the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera. It is the least expensive interchangeable lens camera you can buy that records to RAW or 10-bit ProRes with 13+ stops of dynamic range - straight out of the box. Like Pro cinema cameras, it sets the shutter in degrees rather than fractions of a second and has a built-in headphone jack so you can monitor your audio track (only one other interchangeable lens camera below $1000 has a built-in headphone jack - the Panasonic GH3).
With a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$24 pistol grip w trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), a [$159 LCD viewfinder] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297), a [$70 external battery adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a couple of [$10 batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) [Referral Links] - you'll have the best cinema camera in its class.
Here's what my setup looks like, ready to shoot: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG
Here is what this little powerhouse cinema camera can do:
Narrative
http://vimeo.com/89563847
http://vimeo.com/94798326
http://vimeo.com/101576471
Documentary
http://vimeo.com/83284391
Music Video
http://vimeo.com/88103618
Travel/Low Light
http://vimeo.com/79531723
There are lots more examples in the [Pocket Cinema Camera group] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera) I moderate over on Vimeo.
Although it has a steeper learning curve than a consumer camera, and color grading in post is pretty much mandatory - this is absolutely the best filmmakers' camera in this price range.
Second choice:
If you want something that is a little easier to use, the GH3 might be a better choice. With its built-in electronic viewfinder that continues to work while you're shooting video, 1080/60p frame rate for slow motion, up to 72mbps recording and all metal splash resistant body - this is a great video/still camera for the price.
Here is what the GH3 can do:
Narrative
http://vimeo.com/49420579
http://vimeo.com/59543338
Music Video
http://vimeo.com/53834993
http://vimeo.com/96861718
Documentary
http://vimeo.com/66940018
http://vimeo.com/54076272
There are many more examples on Andrew Reid's GH3 channel over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/gh3
And, unlike the BMPCC, it can produce still photography results like these: https://www.flickr.com/groups/gh3/pool/
Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!
Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I built a rig around the pistol grip handheld setup seen here: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG
By adding a couple of rails, a cold shoe extender and a shoulder pad, I was able to provide mounting points for a mic, a ring light and, when I can afford it, a rail mounted battery pack.
Here's what the rig looks like: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K2Z7iz5-bRw/VHqL3cK9OrI/AAAAAAAAJH4/OYrYg70RQ0E/w724-h543-no/P1020685.JPG
Here's the parts list:
With the latest firmware upgrades and this rig, the BMPCC is a real joy to shoot with. And when I want to go back to putting the camera in a jacket pocket, I can.
Good luck!
That’s not a ring light it’s a flash with a diffuser on it. This one to be exact. Meking 12 Inch (31cm) Gray Card Portable Softbox Multi-Function Diffuser for Speedlight Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URHR3TW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UyeFDbSN3WCC7
Velcro, gaff tape, zip ties, or a shoe adapter.
I can’t link the amazon pages right now, but I got these shower rods that go floor to ceiling and ball camera type mount with a clasp on rods. Takes up less floor space and pretty sturdy.
Edit:
Rods
mount
Use the Playmemories app to display live view on your smartphone. Then mount your phone on the hotshoe with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CFDBJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uVfUzb22XYZQ4
You can even mirror the live view on the phone to make framing easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ - Light stands - $36
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ - Speedlight x 2 - $64
https://www.amazon.com/Flash-ChromLives-Light-Stand-Bracket/dp/B07317T52Q - Umbrella holder 2 pack - $18
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography - Octobox - $25 (by far my favorite speedlight modifier I own for portraits, you could go cheaper with just an umbrella, but I love my octobox )
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless triggers - $16
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though Umbrella - $17 - Can be used in place of the octobox above if you must, but I would get both and use as your fill light
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector - 5 in 1 reflector - $18
That gives you a two light setup for under $200, with light modifiers, stands, wireless triggers and a reflector. That would allow you to get the type of pictures you want. As your budget increases I would look at other light modifiers or adding in a hair light or background light, but those can be down the road purchases.
For what you linked the continuous kit just won't give out enough light...
I'd be less concerned about if the ceilings are too high to bounce, and more concerned with the rafters casting huge shadows all over the place and making your light uneven. You should pick up a few flash discs and shoot through them rather than bouncing.
Meking 12 Inch (31cm) Gray Card Portable Softbox Multi-function Diffuser for Speedlight Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URHR3TW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0izryb304HASA
I don't know how accurate it is, but this hotshoe cover is also a spirit level that does the job for me in terms of letting me know if I'm wildly unlevel.
No problem. :)
Ok, so flash is pretty easy. My setup might be a bit outdated, but here is what I use currently:
I have 3 of those flashes, they're really pretty great if you aren't too snobby about brands. I believe Yongnuo has flashes now with the transmitter built into them, but I have never used those and the only time I've seen them in action it didn't go super well. I'm sure they're fine, I just can't recommend them.
So basically you put the controller on your camera. You put each flash you want to use off camera on the transceivers. The controller lets you adjust each flash's settings remotely and triggers them. It's awesome.
If you generally don't know what you're doing with flash for the reception, it's generally best to bounce the light off the ceiling. Point the flashes roughly upward and fire away. At receptions with a defined dance floor you can get pretty great results by placing them in a couple of the corners. Your light might come back kinda yellow. If you don't want to worry about using gels on your flashes then just keep an eye out for it and adjust the white balance in Lightroom after the fact.
Aside from flashes you will want some modifiers to place on them. When I was starting out the two that I used are these (these aren't the exact ones, but they're close):
So there are probably better modifiers to use, but these are cheap and they work pretty well at diffusing/directing light. The softbox is great for portraits and I frequently would use the flash bender to direct light gently over a wide area, like when the toasts are going on or the bridal party is entering the room or the dance floor. When used correctly you should get pretty great lighting and avoid hard shadows.
Anyways, how I shot those photos. You're generally right. I love shots like that (probably too much), and so I do them all the time. The general idea is the same for all of them, soft light in front and a bright light in the back. Using the specific equipment I listed above, my usual MO is to put a bare flash behind them, typically on the ground (using these)or on a stand as low as possible to the ground. Point it at the couple and slightly upward (photo 1 is the exception, it was pointed essentially straight up to make the gazebo light up like that).
Set up a flash in front of them. In most of those photos I used the flashbender modifier on the flash pointing at the couple to direct but diffuse the light. It helps it look a bit more natural. Generally you want to position it in a way that the shadows aren't too distracting, so do it slightly off to the side to get more natural lighting. Obviously I messed up in a few of mine but it is what it is and most people don't even notice. We're always our own harshest critic.
Next is the settings. This is honestly the toughest part in my opinion. You need to expose for the background you want and then use the flashes to achieve the lighting you want on the subjects. I don't know how to describe this, but the easiest way is with photo #6 on my website. I exposed the photo for the city behind the couple and got the look I wanted, THEN I added flashes and whatnot. General rule of thumb is the light behind the couple should be one step brighter than the light in front. That way you get the glowing backlight effect.
Thanks for the compliments on the photos! I hope this helps. I'm sorry if I did a bad job of explaining things, just ask me to clarify anything you don't understand.
EDIT: All this being said you don't NEED off camera flash. I've shot entire receptions using on-camera flash. The most important thing to remember is you just want to diffuse the light in some way. When you're using flash on camera you typically achieve this by bouncing it at the ceiling. Practice this at home, it usually works pretty well!
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C
edit : or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8F5HYJ/ref=emc_b_5_t
this one is quite cool:
12v + 9v + USB outputs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1
I find best to use these
https://www.amazon.com/InterDesign-Constant-Tension-Bathroom-Curtain/dp/B00F3B4YPS
with these
https://www.amazon.com/2Pack-ChromLives-Camera-Clamp-Monitor/dp/B07GZ1D4BB
Similar to this picture.
Looks good and can be reused over and over again.
Cheap: 1) extension tube(s) for your 50mm. 2) Silver/Gold reflector with a way to mount it on a light stand. 3) Hot shoe cord: https://www.amazon.com/Vello-TTL-Off-Camera-Flash-Cord-Canon/dp/B005GMWEI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496952004&sr=8-1&keywords=vello+canon+hot+shoe+cord 4) Light Stand & umbrella for mounting a Yongnuo flash kit:
Mid range: 1) Yongnuo kit like B_Huij describes, though I'd go with a YN-560TX on-camera to control power & zoom on the speedlights. If you presently only have one speedlight and you're using it solely on-camera, you're not going to get much use out of it, especially outside. See #3 above to get it off-camera.
Pricier: 1) EF-S 35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM Lens since you're presently doing your shooting with the kit lens and 50mm, I think this will give you more flexibility than either the 60mm or 100mm macro... those give you more reach but at the expense of Depth of Field. Smaller apertures don't make as big of a difference as focal length with DoF... and for your work I think as long as you're shooting groups of lego dude, 100mm would be inconveniently long.
Bonus idea: Gorillapod/clone with tripod>hotshoe adapter for holding a wirelessly triggered flash.
You've got some great stuff so far. Post back with whatever you results you get from the upgrades!
I have a godox v860ii
it came with these color gels: gel things
, I don't overly know a good way attach it via the velcro
it also came with this difuser
and it really kinda sucks, it's there a decent cheapish one(20ish or less)?
I really like the Laowa/Venus Twin Flash 800; weird-looking, but very useful, incredibly flexible flash unit, with focus light. I use it with Canon gear, but it's universal. I put miniature softboxes on each flash end when I want diffusion; Neewer Pro Universal Soft Mini Flash Bounce Diffuser Cap for On Camera or Off Camera Flash Gun: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JUPDH5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l1EQCb6H500QB
Venus Twin Flash w/articulating arms, Amazon, $229.00
Venus Laowa Macro Twin Flash KX-800 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IYIYBTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aWEQCbZQ92D8H
Reviews:
Thomas Shahan:
https://youtu.be/8JbJzENXjz8
Scott Dumas:
https://youtu.be/1IZKBHwoJs0
Thanks! My initial tests show the analog rytm is the most power hungry and should get about 4 hours. I've already ordered a better battery specifically for the AR.
This battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07H8F5HYJ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
Unfortunately I have no way to record my Elektron stuff right now, it's not in my studio and I'm waiting on an Presonus mixer which I'm also going to make portable.
I leave for a camping trip this week so my goal is to have a video for you to watch when I get back. Stay tuned :)
Here's a look at the process:
https://imgur.com/gallery/kPcV9j0
Rule of thumb for ND filters is to buy the largest size of ND filter that corresponds to the size of the largest lens you intend to buy for your camera system.
No step up ring system is going to include the thread size for your kit lens or the 25mm since they're non-standard. As such I suggest buying a regular step-up ring kit alongside a specific step-up ring that adapts your current lenses to the kit.
Step up ring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016I7RW9A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Specialized non-standard step up ring:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048IFQCC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ1D4BB/
or something by smallrig. i've been using smallrig for a long time for lots of things, including a number of my bade stations.
I think most expensive diffusers are overpriced and mostly work the same. Honestly, you can make a decent one from a rubbing alcohol bottle.
however, if you want to look good, get a folding soft box diffuser. They are only around 12 dollars https://www.amazon.ca/Opteka-SB-1-Universal-Diffuser-External/dp/B0017U0WM8
If you don't want an L bracket, there's this or this
But realistically, if you don't use a bracket, what do you expect? I suppose you can rig up an articulating arm to hold the phone that might screw into the tripod mount or use a clam to grip the tripod. But both ideas sound more cumbersome than a bracket.
To add on to this, get an ND filter that fits your biggest lens. For example, if your biggest lens has a 77mm thread mount, then get a 77mm ND filter. What you can then do is get the appropriate step-up adapter rings to adapt them to your smaller diameter lenses.
This will save you from buying multiple ND filters for each lens.
NEED ADVICE ASAP!
Tomorrow I will be shooting my first ever wedding. I won't be at the ceremony but I will have a set up at the reception. My problem is one of the sockets on my lights has popped out somewhere and now I'm only working with one light for reference now I'm only working with one of these
I do have my Newwer flash and this light bender as well. Do you guys think I can wing this or should I try to find another main light source asap? Also any advice on doing backdrop wedding photography? I'm working with my Sony a6300 and I have a 18-55 kit lens and 50mm 1.4 Nikon lens. I was thinking the 50 was going to give me the best result since I'm doing portraits.
If I can wing it with one main source light and my flash where should I position the main light? Going on YouTube right now to look up some tutorials and tips would appreciate any links or articles! I'm pretty nervous because it's a wedding but its not the first time I wing a shoot with mishaps going on.
YONGNUO YN685 GN60 2.4G System ETTL HSS for $102, has a built-in radio trigger receiver, so you can then get a YN-622C-TX E-TTL Wireless Flash Controller for $44 and you're off-camera, you have E-TTL, and high speed sync.
Off camera will be especially useful in macro photography though many find they need a specific ring flash to avoid casting shadows from the lens.
In my first season, but pretty happy with my gear! This year I plan to upgrade a body in fall and possibly get the sigma 135mm for portraits.
A d750 and a d610 (I can’t tell much difference between them for day shots, but at night the 750 shines)
Battery grip (I always shoot landscape, the grip helps remind my to shoot portrait)
Tamron g2 70-200mm
Tamron g2 24-70mm
Sigma 50mm 1.4
Nikon 60mm macro (is out for five minutes)
Leather camera harness like the holdfast moneymaker (mine was from Etsy)
3 Godox v860ii flashes
1 godox flash remote (can’t remember name)
2 manfrotto light stands (don’t skimp on stands! I was so nervous with my cheap stands. It’s a real liability.)
flash disc diffuser thing for on camera needs
Shoot through umbrella (probably going to switch to an octobox simply because I’ve had two dumbass uncle bobs make comments that I have it set up backwards and it gets to me)
Lots and lots of cards and batteries and chargers.
Taking a flash off your camera just requires a transmitter and a receiver. You can get very inexpensive ones that work pretty well for under $20. Or even just a flash cable. Then you put the flash on a clip or a stand and put it where you want it and then use as normal. (Be sure to get a transmitter that's made to work with your camera brand, since each flash mount works different)
Obviously taking any of this stuff up a wall will add danger and complexity, and a big diffuser will lower your light output and won't make much of a difference from any meaningful distance (more than 15 feet or so) but from here, you'll have to experiment and see what works for you!
/u/kong1126, I can wholeheartedly agree with geekandwife on recommending Godox flashes. Additionally, their remote control system is fantastic and easily expandable.
Just an FYI, the Flashpoint brand is the same as Godox just rebranded by Adorama (who I've heard provides better support). The two are entirely inter-compatible.
Another diffuser I've personally had good results from is a knock-off of the Fstopper Flash disc - https://www.amazon.com/Meking-Portable-Multi-function-Speedlight-Flashlight/dp/B00URHR3TW
Tension bars big enough to run floor-ceiling, and clamps with the 1/4 20 camera mount thread on them.
Example: 2x these and 2x these. Shop around for better deals. Look for mention of "ball head" as it us a very simple but effective method for articulation.
>How often do you guys use telephoto lenses?
This depends on things you'd like to shoot, if you like landscape, almost never. We have a 70-200 that never leaves the house, longest I usually bring with me is a 85
>If I do end up getting one, do you think I would find scenarios where I wish I would have one?
Usually you need it for the reach, in a concert, a wedding, a zoo, trying to grab subjects you cannot otherwise get closers
>Is the SEL55210 a decent lens?
it's a good lens, personally, much like my 70-200 I never used it much.
>I'm really confused with telephoto lenses because even high-end lenses have pretty slow f stops.
the platform you bought into prefers size over lens performance, it has nothing to do if it's high end or not
>And about aperture, how do you know what aperture you should shoot at?
It depends on the look you are going for, the light that's available and the amount of things you want to be in focus (depth of field).
>I've read that most lenses lose quality beyond around f8 or f11. Is that true?
not necessarily loss of quality, but the focus of light start to break down call diffraction. It typically starts to appear in smaller apertures and only become noticeable in extremely small apertures
>Does that mean that you should never really go above that number?
A small aperture is needed if you want a larger amount of subjects in focus, or you need to reduce the amount of light entering the camera. You can also use a small aperture to give certain looks to the bokeh balls or lights. This photo here shot with the 14mm 2.8 at f22, you can see it forced everything to be in focus and gave the lights a 6 point star look
>I also noticed from my moon pictures that the most in focus one was actually at ~f5 and focus wasn't set to infinity. How does aperture and focus combine to make the moon more in focus at those settings than others? Or maybe it's user error since it was the first time I tried to use it.
On Sony E lenses, infinity is actually a few hairs below infinity focus, it's best to manually focus yourself by zooming in
>And filters.
Different folks will have different opinions on filter brands and the type of filters you should get (I only use CPL and ND, I feel that UV is a sham). But if you want to save money, buy a larger filter, like a 77mm and then purchase step down rings to use them with all your lenses
>And final question, how do you bring all of your equipment with you?
keep your camera out and with you, have the Sigma 19 on it, carry the other lenses in camera lens pouches
Unanswered question from the previous megathread
Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
Get one of these:
Yongnuo 560 IIs
And get some radio triggers too. You'll need something like a Flash Bender, or a Fong Lightsphere to diffuse/modify the light.
I've seen a lot of bar photogs using this combo, and then they hold the light above the subjects head, so you get a nice butterfly-like light quality, and it's much more efficient than bouncing, as you can use much less flash power to get a clean image.
You could find variations of the products I mentioned to fit your budget if those are too much.
Yeah the answer is definitely a fill flash. I use these and I love them (for how cheap they are compared to a pocket wizard). Start with that, maybe get a little diffuser to soften the light over the flower.
You actually need a 67mm ND filter. The sizing is based on the filter thread size, not the focal length of the lens.
Also if you have other lenses with a bigger filter thread, you would choose the largest filter ring size, then use step up rings to adapter to different lenses.
Yes, it does. They're not called elbows directly, they're the "Bend Goal", but don't let the name fool you. They're elbows.
If you want to completely fill in the tracking points on the VRIK component, you've got 10 slots to fill: (with my recommended device in parens)
Spine: Head Target (HMD)
Spine: Pelvis Target (Tracker 1 on Waist/back)
Left Arm: Target (Left Controller)
Left Arm: Bend Goal (Tracker 2 on Left Elbow)
Right Arm: Target (Right Controller)
Right Arm: Bend Goal (Tracker 3 on Right Elbow)
Left Leg: Target (Tracker 4 on Left Foot)
Left Leg: Bend Goal (Tracker 5 on Left Knee)
Right Leg: Target (Tracker 6 on Right Foot)
Right Leg: Bend Goal (Tracker 7 on Right Knee)
The trackers do not come with any sort of strap or mount - I've been improvising my own, with varying degrees of success. So far I've been using the following:
1/4" shoe mounts to screw in to the Trackers Amazon Link
Velcro Straps (2 for elbows, 1 for feet, and waist (using 3 belt loops)) Amazon Link
I've also been trying the suggestion of using cardboard boards to reduce the movement. I didn't have problems really with the elbow or back ones, but the feet still jiggle way too much. Inspired by the ikinema video, I ordered (and just got, today) these:
Foot Arch Supports Amazon Link
It turns out one isn't enough to dampen the shaking when walking, but two, while not perfect, is a big improvement. (Enough that I ordered two more, arriving tomorrow.)
hey dude! i have a gopro hero 3 silver. I use it for recording live sets. The zoom h1 mic is pretty good for the price, and you can find it cheaper used. it's external so you'll have to sync the audio and video, but it's worth it.
i use this housing
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8CFZUG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
and use this on top of it to mount the zoom h1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005005EEM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
the zoom sits directly on top!
Imgur
Lead acid batteries are rechargeable (think car battery) but dont use an actual car battery. If you are using an ac adapter already just put a 12v inverter and stick it on the battery. That will handle regulations.
If you want a single box solution
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07H8F5HYJ
This will do 12v and 6amp out but dont expect a ton of time out of it.
Yep, I've used setups where the mic is on the NATO rail or in a cold shoe mounted directly to the cage.
First, balancing the handle on the rig is important for it to be effective, so I would position it in the center.
A 100mm NATO rail will give you enough room to mount the handle in the center and a cold shoe NATO clamp for the mic off to the side.
However, my preference is to mount a low-profile cold shoe to the side of the cage (e.g. the vertical 15mm rod) for the mic. This is especially useful when using something like Beachtek's MCC-2 adapter, as it puts the level controls in an easy to reach position, rather than way forward on top of the cage.
Here's an example of this type of setup with View Factor's Contineo cage.
Assuming that there's a single presenter, I'd want to use at least two microphones for this setup. First off, I'd stick a wireless lapel on the presenter, and I'd also set up a shotgun like the NTG2 either on a mic stand in front of or a high c-stand above the talent. The lapel will get isolated vocal from the presenter, and the shotgun will get backup vocal, but more importantly some noise when they're working.
I wouldn't advise using a 6D for recording audio. Canon DSLRs have noisey preamps, no proper gain control without Magic Lantern, and most importantly no headphone jack so you can monitor what's being recorded. If hiring something with pro XLR inputs like a C100 or C300 instead is out of the question, then this H6 will work perfectly. You could get an inexpensive hot shoe to 1/4" adapter and mount the recorder to your camera so that you've got all your recorders in one place (hopefully there's somewhere in NZ that does them!)
Syncing is easy, pluraleyes makes it a lot eaisier. To help the editor out, use a clapperboard (or just clap) at the start or end of each take as a reference point, and try to make sure that you have exactly the same number of clips on both the camera and audio (i.e. turn and cut at the same times), even if that means recording audio when it's not needed.
one of these, with some washers first, or both of them. or buy a cheap hack saw.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Thread-Converter-Adapter-Camera/dp/B005005EEM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1469062385&sr=8-9&keywords=Tripod+Screw+For+Flash+Hot+Shoe
/u/mrdat /u/dasazz
It turns out they didn't have the c version so it's a bit moot. On a further bit of investigation I found not an insignificant number of people who'd had a issues with batteries and unit failures with new or recently purchased units so I decided against it.
I think I'll be going with a [x2 Yongnuo 568EXII] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-568EXII-YongNuo-YN-568EX-Flashgun/dp/B00DB21TCM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468597389&sr=1-6&keywords=YONGNUO), [YN-622C-TX Controler] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MFDO2DG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AT2QXFTZ6P2MN) and [YN-622C transcevers] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BJ4CR5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3T2PXX210KPYE) setup up instead. Thanks a lot for your advice.
I bought as part of a pair [since I have 2 flashes], but you can typically find them sold singly too. For instace, on Amazon
Makes sense...so right now im trying to figure out if I need this?
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Single-Transceiver-YN-622C-Trigger/dp/B007B8Y1KO
Its a Canon 70d w/ 18-135mm lens and 17-85mm Lens (the 17-85mm is the one that clicks when it is focusing) For a microphone he uses a Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R. He used the NEEWER 160 LED light for the ursla series. To mount the microphone and light he used something like the Eynpire Camera Triple Mount.
Best flash diffuser for travel? I'm headed to Mexico with the family and am taking my D7100 and a Yongnuo flash / transmitter. Should I get a small softbox? A flash bender? Something else? I don't have a lot of experience with flash but I don't want super hard shadows on my subjects. Most of the pictures will probably be outside but there will be some inside as well. I'll be aiming for natural light where possible but want to come out with some nice family photos. Needs to be small. Thanks!
While we're at it, I also suggest one of these.
I hate how that hotshoe is uncovered and we aren't supplied with a cover.
You might try one of these plus one of these.
Make it easier. Do an Amazon search for "tripod clamp" and put it on the side, I just did the search and had a ton of hits. Or mount it on the camera's shoe using a 1/4-male to 1/4-male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SDKSWMW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_kC84wbRHCCV0T. Or use the camera's shoe via an adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPAPFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_qD84wbP0EB979. If you are already using your shoe, triple it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2L8S5W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_CE84wbJ39R2NK
this lens http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-19mm-f2-8-Lens-Sony/dp/B00BPZD0M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458568448&sr=8-1&keywords=sigma+19mm+lens,
and ok so just buy the biggest size ND filter? then get some adapter rings? (like this?)
I'd recommend mounting them both on a Y-Bracket if you need it cheap and light, with one of these to mount the zoom.
You can also take sound off camera really quick and easy if the opportunity arises.
Yeah, an umbrella is going to be too big to hand hold. If you are shooting insects in the wild my experience is there is a trade off between a big enough diffuser to get good looking light (bigger is better) and something that will be so big you will scare insects, or not be able to precisely control it and accidentally bump the bush or whatever you are next to.
I have these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017U0WM8
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Speedlight-Speedlite-600EX-RT-Panasonica/dp/B003Y322RO
They strap directly to the flash head, so you don't need anything else to attach them. It's not like an umbrella where you need a bracket to hold the umbrella to the flash.
No hood for macro like this. You will be so close to the subject that the hood would actually block light from the flash in some cases.
You may want to start with a flash bracket though. I use a [manfrotto 330B)[http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-330B-Bracket-Support-Heads-Black/dp/B001D2CW2I]. It will hold two flash heads but I just use one. The key thing is you need a bracket that lets you position the flash at an angle above the focal point of the lens.
Which reminds me, keep in mind you will probably shoot in manual focus mode. You turn the focus ring to the 1:1 (max) magnification and then move the camera by hand until your subject is in focus. And no matter how you focus, it takes steady hands to keep the very thin focal plane on your subject.
I don't know what your budget is, but if you want the L it's supposed to be nice. I don't know that the IS helps much given that you will be shooting with a flash (that should freeze any hand-shake motion in my opinion). If you might shoot with natural light then the IS would be critical, but I'm not sure how possible it would even be. Flash makes such a HUGE difference for sharpness of the image.
You may want to just get the non-L and if you fall in love with macro you can sell it and buy the L later. Or you may do like me and move toward the extreme 4:1 or 10:1 magnification stuff where the EF lens is useless anyway.
If you really want something solid that doesn't take up space you may want to get a floor to ceiling rod support. This is the cheapest I found. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html Though you will likely want to paint them another color to match the room.
And clamps like this https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Ball-Head-Mount-Adapter/dp/B06XQY99DR/
A cheaper alternative to the 600EX-RT while still going Canon is the new 430EX-RT. Canon added the radio trigger technology in the cheaper line. You lose a slight amount of range in how far the flash can turn but it's not that big of a deal. You lose some power as well, but it will be perfectly fine in most cases, especially a class you're taking. Despite what some reviews say, the 430EX-RT can be used as either slave or master unit if you ever pick up more to use for multi-flash work. I've tried it out myself. The 430EX-RT is also considerably smaller and lighter, and the menu system has changed to be much simpler. I prefer going to it first over the 600EX-RT which is a beast of a flash in terms of size and weight. It's very unnecessary in most cases.
(OP, the radio trigger aspect is important. It means if you want to shoot off camera, your flashes don't need to be in line of sight of each other to talk to each other. That's one important distinction between these and cheaper flashes. Either the flashes needed to be in line of sight of each other so the off camera flashes would know when to shoot, or you had to buy third party radio triggers. With these RT flashes, those third party extra gadgets are not needed. For the purposes of your class, I don't know if you'll need to go off camera at all, but hopefully if you do, a simple off camera flash cable will be all you'll need.)
Looks like the only way to use that with the 77mm is with a step down adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-20pcs-82mm-Filter-DC162/dp/B009ZCDD58
Sorry kind of a joke name for them. Just a fabric diffuser similar to this.
Oh just realized you may have been asking about the shower caddy rods. You have to get these mounts for the shower rods. (these are the rods I got)
You need something to trigger the flash, yeah. It can be a cable, a wireless radio trigger, or even using the pop-up flash to trigger the external one optically. I wouldn't suggest the latter in a club, though, because any bright light source has a tendency to trigger the flash randomly when it's in that mode and TTL cables are cheap.
'TTL cable' just refers to a cable that attaches to your hotshoe, and on the other end gives you a little box with basically another hotshoe. It lets the flash behave exactly the same as if it was sitting in the hotshoe, just now you can move it around. They look like this.
This is the only one I could find that would fit:
SMALLRIG Universal Microhone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWQG27X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
Hello,
I'm looking to buy an accessory for my Godox flash to use with my a7 iii, either a reflector diffuser or a diffuser cap. I am unsure what the differences are and which would serve me best. It'll mostly be used in a low-lit social occasions.
I am using this one - K&F Concept K882 ETT-L, which has more features and power than the 430EXII.
Together with this (YN-622C-TX) and this (YN-622C)
Price: $84.99 + $45.00 + $41 = $171.99
While this setup would be slightly over your budget, you would benefit from E-TTL if needed. It's also nice being able to setup the off-camera flash using the screen and controls on-top of the transceiver.
Buy an off-camera flash cable and one of these babies https://www.amazon.com/Meking-Portable-Multi-function-Speedlight-Flashlight/dp/B00URHR3TW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525389347&sr=8-2&keywords=flash+disc+diffuser
This is the setup I use when I shoot events. Works great when you have to do a quick portrait too. Nice soft light.
I have an 80d and paired it up with a Yongnuo 685 along with a 622C-TX controller. The 685 has e-ttl and a built in receiver. For the price I couldn't be happier.
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-Speedlite-Canon-DSLRs/dp/B012CX6Y0M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527555382&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+685+flash+canon&dpID=41m62htog7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN-622C-TX-Wireless-Flash-Controller/dp/B00MFDO2DG/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MFDO2DG&pd_rd_r=3deafbdf-62db-11e8-bf8e-eb3c744d8fe4&pd_rd_w=TCugj&pd_rd_wg=VUbMV&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=QDN5M3671PDQ4W5TR5HX&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=QDN5M3671PDQ4W5TR5HX
Hotshoe to 1/4-20 adapters are cheap.
Slap on a GoPro tripod adapter and you're good to go.
I haven't found a good budget lav mic, but that can provide some next level audio paired with a dead cat/wind screen.
Well the MKE 600 comes with a little clip that can slide into the top of most dslr and mirrorless cameras, and it also has a 1/4 inch thread. So if your mic stand has a 1/4 inch bolt on the end you don’t need to buy anything else. If you do want to buy something or need a different size thread (I️ actually think 3/4 inch is pretty standard on mic stands) then maybe look into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XWQG27X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511589050&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shock+mount+for+shotgun&psc=1
I️ found this by searching for shotgun mic shock mounts.
They make nicer shock mounts but this will get you going and making some videos.
Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071CFDBJ7/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Excellent. Make sure to get some kind of adjustable umbrella mounts like these to go with your light stands... They work great on tripods as well if you need stability but not height. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07317T52Q?psc=1
What you could do is velcro the mic to a cheese plate and then screw this [hot/cold shoe adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005005EEM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005005EEM&linkCode=as2&tag=ytvdsc-20&linkId=EJBXFHJO2J7YMKLX) into the cheese plate and then mount that to the mount on the camera.
These are also good, i use one for my 3rd lighthouse (different play space) have it clamped to my lamp
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GZ1D4BB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ALTERNATE MOUNTING OPTION DETECTED:
This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2L8S5W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AJU45U9D3I7E4&psc=1
With these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPAPFNU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
That'll mount to a tripod, right?
When I started using anamorphic scopes, I bought this 'complete set' of step-up/step-down rings. Admittedly, they are cheap. But having a whole set is SO useful when getting started.
For my setup (which includes a Sankor 16C, Olympus taking lens, and a 77mm diopter set) I ended up needing three different types of step-up and step-down rings.
I'd suggest getting the full set of cheap ones to find out EXACTLY the ones you need. Then, when you realize you need a 52 to 77 as well as a 48 to a 67, then you can buy higher quality specific ones to meet your exact build.
Here is the design for the 3d printed holder:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1926833
(remixed from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516893)
Then i purchased a hot shoe adapter for my DSLR from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OT75QTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hot Shoe Hotshoe Cover With Bubble Spirit Level for Sony Alpha Series this may not help when your shooting using the viewfinder since you can't see it. But it's helped me level my pictures with mini tripod.
Get a soft box diffuser for your flash like this one. If you get a mounted flash (which most recommend), something like this will work well. I have the second one and it's great.
This sounds like a great place for the Rogue Flashbender.
It takes a little getting used to, but can be extremely useful when you don't have good surfaces for bouncing, and don't want to use direct flash.