Best check valves according to redditors

Plumber here, buy [this pump] (http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936374&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+sump+pump) . They are very tough and last a long time. If your old on edoes not have a check valve, buy this one to go with your new sump pump.

What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.

These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN

Super easy, need just a screwdriver to remove the old one. Its the thing mounted a bit higher in the PVC pipe. Get one that matches the size of the pipe. Here is one as an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

When you replace it you really need to add one of these

here

So what I would do is, remove that union, connect the check valve and PVC down to the pump (I'd drop in one in the sump). You'll need a threaded adapter on the pvc to the pump and any 45 or elbow as needed.

I like to use the Zoeller Quiet Check Valves so I usually end up throwing out the check valve that came with the ejector package.

Ah sorry, I was mistaken - those outlets are actually 5/8" not 3/8".

You can get an adapter to allow your smaller diameter hose to connect to a larger one like this 3/8>5/8 one. Then you can attach a short length of 5/8 hose to the p trap outlet and use a Hose Splitter to connect both the dishwasher and humidifier. I'd also place in non return valve in each line to prevent water from either appliance from getting into the other.

Alternatively, if the humidifier doesn't put out a lot of waste water you could just drain it outside like is done with AC units

Your pump can maybe overpower your home water pressure, it's hard to say. Also, any time you have pool (non-potable) water coming in direct contact with source water (potable) you need a double check valve/rpz valve like [this](http://www.Watts.com/ 0065372 3/4" Reduced Pressure Zone Assembly, Quarter Turn Ball Valves, Lead-Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2S5PCP/) to keep it from feeding or back-siphoning your pool water into the city supply.

One thing I would say that might help is to move the check valves lower. They should be very close to the pump itself. Yours are so high that a lot of the water that gets pumped up comes right back into the sump. So they work more and the water level stays higher.

Make sure they are working when you move them. If not or suspect get a Zoeller 30-0181
http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

Thanks! That is the 1/2 HP pump I was looking at instead of the 3/4 HP one if I decided to go with a water powered backup solution. However, I think I may go with battery backup instead.

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This Wayne WSS30V is 1/2 HP all-in-one combo with battery backup and also has an alarm built in. I think this is what I'm leaning towards at this point. I was also looking at that Mighty Max for the battery, or this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump if it's okay to use (let me know what you think).

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I ordered one of these Zoeller PVC Plastic Check Valves. Do I need two on the combo unit, or is just one okay?

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I have this Basement Watchdog Dual Float Sump Pump Switch with Controller on my current pump and was just going to transfer it over to the new one using the metal clamp it came with.

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Any other suggestions or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all your help!

I think it is possible if you have a non return valve fitted too.

If it's still not possible, is their any reason you can't just have a combi boiler instead (no water tank, no problem)?

Apollo 62-101-01 Stainless Steel Check Valve, Ball Cone, 1/4" NPT Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LSLDCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F9bGybAGDM24Y

Sounds like you're looking for a check valve with a low cracking pressure. A google search shows numerous off-the-shelf options. Parker makes a variety, some even available thru amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Cracking-Pressure-Compression-Fitting/dp/B007I5TTMA

I do but it's been posted elsewhere and would identify me IRL, so I don't want to post them.

Basically it's 4x of these, 1x of these, and a bunch of PVC fittings from Lowe's. All the PVC stuff uses pipe thread, so on the output side get a female pipe thread (FPT) to male hose thread (MHT) adapter.

I am feeding the system with two 3/4 inch hoses (hoses not included in the $200 total) that flow into these and merge into a single pipe (check valves on each side to mitigate some risk of backflow, but FYI this wouldn't pass code). One hose from each hose bib on my house. With that I'm getting about 10-11 GPM.

Looks to me like someone made their own cheap air gap back flow preventer by gluing up some fittings and cutting the corner off.

Though why they needed a back flow preventer or why they didn't jut use a check valve is unknown. This setup is going dump water all over the floor if it's actually ever needed.

No clue how you're supposed to resolve the issue, but a really stupid idea that will actually work: A pneumatic check valve.

Drill a hole in the frame, seal in a tiny in-line check valve, and there you go.

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Check-LCV-06-Pneumatic-Return/dp/B01GRDE220/

Just be sure it's pointed in the right direction so air can leave but it can't come back it. (though that might make it hard to open the door... Hmmmm)