Best coaxial car speakers according to redditors
We found 373 Reddit comments discussing the best coaxial car speakers. We ranked the 192 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 373 Reddit comments discussing the best coaxial car speakers. We ranked the 192 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Tell Best Buy to go suck a lemon.
I'm all for repairing good speakers when the foam fails. But for stock speakers like this, you can usually replace them with upgraded speakers for roughly the same price as the foam kit.
For example these are actually $2.50 cheaper than the foam kit you linked, and will fix OPs problem with way less effort.
Or for 6 bucks more than the foam kit you could get a name brand pair.
Recently bought these and installed myself. Good bang for your buck!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AFxK9E69ocMMo
So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.
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That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.
The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.
It was very easy to install:
Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
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I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.
Yes. I didn't do a ton of looking tbh, but they were cheap and had solid reviews. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RNNX8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm tempted to try out the Halo LED headlights on Amazon for $120 ish.
https://www.amazon.com/TURBO-Headlight-Projection-Motorcycle-Freightliner/dp/B015WIRU2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741576&sr=8-1&keywords=wrangler+halo+led
$63 for speaker upgrades, I can't recommend it enough. I got 2 kits for both soundbar and front speakers, took me less than 2 hours to install it all myself.
https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741601&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+upgrade
Next on my wish list is the switch panel that goes on the windshield, hook all your lights into one unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Wrangler-Windshield-6-Switch-Assemblies/dp/B01CDTW03K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741651&sr=8-4&keywords=wrangler+switch+panel
Shame on r/moto for downvoting a legitimate question. If you don't like how others customize their bikes then just move on.
Certified audio visual technician, I can help with the speakers. If you're going to use the speakers when your bike is off, you need to fit an extra or larger battery into your bike. Recommend at least a 12AH (amp hour) deep cycle battery for the "extra" or anything larger than your current battery for a single one. Forget everything you were told about wattage. Wattage != loud. You want Db rating. Db rating = how loud a speaker is in decibels with 1 watt of power to it. You have to double the wattage every time to get 3 more db. 400 watts vs 100 watts is only 4 decibels louder in the same speaker, or, a barely noticeable difference.
On the cheap end I recommend:
>Any head unit you prefer with a least 20watts per channel or this https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582501&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai If you're cool with just using an aux cord straight from your phone into an amp.
>And these speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS693-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582569&sr=1-5&keywords=6x9+speakers 92db with 1 watt. 20 watts is plenty to crank it them to 104 decibels. 50watts to about 108 decibels.
Pricier but the best bang for your buck:
>Head unit of your choice (doesn't need any wattage)
>This amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PAD2000-2-2-channel-Amplifier/dp/B0060AVWRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582960&sr=1-1&keywords=polk+d2000.2 ignore the reviews, solid amp, people just don't know what they're doing.
>these speakers https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KS693-Inch-3-way-Speakers/dp/B004OAWLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582825&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+ks+6x9 or these https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582858&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+6x9
All speakers are water proof and very durable. I recommend 6x9s for maximum listening pleasure. Don't forget to wire a switch to cut power from the amp and headunit when you don't need them.
With that budget I would focus on doing a good front stage with a decent amp and a good subwoofer. That will give you the most bang for your buck. The rear speakers are just replicating what the fronts are doing so there is really no need for them. If you have passengers back there you can keep the stock ones and fade front when they are not in there. This will allow you to get a better quality front stage which will make a huge impact. Also it will allow you to do some sound deadening which is also very important.
Fronts the Morels are great speaker set that delivers performance above their price point.
Subwoofer the Image Dynamics is a great sound quality sub that does not require very much power but will fill out the bottom end nicely. You can also up the budget for a Dayton or next level ID which would be quite a bit better all around over the the entry level ID.
Amp options are endless. You can go with Pioneer or PPI for budget options.
For sound deadening I would recommend doing Fastrings and CLD for the front doors and some CLD in the trunk.
Also I would not look at the value of he current vehicle as a driver on how to spend on the sound system since you can take the system with you when you get a new vehicle. I would focus on the enjoyment you can get out of the system. If you like music and spend quite a bit of time in the vehicle then it would be worth it to up the budget. If you view music as noise to drown out the traffic then go cheap.
First polyfil (pillow stuffing) the sound bar. Can be found in any sewing/craft section or store and is cheap. Do not pack too dense. You unscrew the speakers and stuff the fill on the space behind them. This will give more depth to your sound.
Kicker makes a direct fit replacement for you. I went with an Infiniti setup, they fit, but I had to add my own mounting holes. It is easy, but, direct fit is easier.
You can always spend more but these will get you in the door.
Soundbar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SUO5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453788771&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jeep+kicker+speaker+upgrade&dpPl=1&dpID=414npO2O69L&ref=plSrch
Dash: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS654/Kicker-40CSS654.html?tp=106
As for subs a single 10" (even some 8's) in a "truck box" will give you the missing low end. You will retain your cargo space and much easier to take out if you need to load up. Or should someone decide they need your subs more than you, it will be cheaper to replace. Of course you could do a 12" or double up on anything...I was young once and competed in many audio events. If you want to go nuts let's talk.
As for your head unit. Head over to www.crutchfield.com and poke around. Many use Crutchfield to see what fits then shop around for a better deal. If you purchase from them you will many time receive all the wiring and mounting hardware +phone support.
If you are newer to modifying things your stereo is a good entry into learning how things work. Feel free to hit me up if you need to talk through anything.
I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.
First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.
It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.
This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.
I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.
> Infinity Reference series speakers
like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-8602cfx-two-way-speakers/dp/B007SNN0T0
I bought a pair of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bzVDzbKZAHRXN
And something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T9DX538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tAVDzbFYVYR9R
Then covered them with speaker grills.
Works really well and gets decent sound while not costing too much money and it was way easier to setup than tearing apart old computer speakers.
I never put in a sub nor did I fully think it was worthwhile.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just stuck these into my brothers car this weekend with an 80wrms amp. It sounds incredible. And for an everyday setup(not competition/show off car) they are pretty loud and clear. Plus, it leaves you with $250 to find an amp. Crutchfield reccomends putting 6.5's into the front door using an adapter bracket because the stock ones are 6x9. But the back door is already 6.5. so thats an option!
But like everyone else said. Buy it all at once and take your car apart only once. It just makes life easier and you break less clips, trim, screws etc.
I just bought these for my build.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUSXEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RNNX8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get these instead of the Kicker's
Polk Audio DB461P 4-by-6-Inch Coaxial Plate-Style Speakers (Pair, Black)
http://amzn.com/B000P0NJOO
And these instead of the JVC's
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver)
http://amzn.com/B000P0R6KW
For $15 more, you'll get better sound. Although, if you prefer to use Crutchfield, I'm sure you'll be happy (for the time being) with those.
Get Polk db series 6x9 and Pioneer GMsub amp. For 5" (I assume up front) see if these Polk db components would fit.
The Polks are very loud and I'd recommend as much sub as you can muster to match their output. I have the db6501 6.5" components fed by a bridged 4ch amp (~200 watts/ch) and they're nearly ear-killing w/o distoring. My 12" sub in a sealed box can barely keep up, a large ported box or even 2 subs would be suggested.
I got it off Amazon. It's a dual channel 50W + 50W driver that can drive 4ohm -8ohm speakers. I used BOSS 4" 50W 4ohm speakers
TDA7492P 2 x 50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board 50W + 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HtjByb5TNPS0P
BOSS AUDIO BRS40 BRS 4" 50-watt Full Range Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvjByb6J5BQZV
The key to getting "good volume" from a head unit is picking a set of speakers that have a good/high efficiency rating.
The key to picking a "good sounding" set of speakers is listening to your options once you narrow down a few sets that have a good efficiency rating. Considering that good sounding is subjective that part is completely up to you.
Finding a set of after market speakers that aren't going to be underpowered by a head unit can be difficult. That's because most quality after market speakers require more power primarily because most people upgrade to an amplifier while also paying a premium price for a speaker upgrade.
These following 6x9 speakers would be my pick for a low wattage high efficiency driver that would make the most of you head units power. If you notice the following pages will offer a package deal for the matching 6.5's
Pioneer TS-A6995R Car Speaker - Set of 2 (1 pair) (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LUG30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GjrzxbG0605JM
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bnrzxbDXEQMEW
If you insist on all alpine. Killer deal for compenents up front with coax in the back right here + this 5 channel amp + one of these subs will give you a great stage. Head unit is between a Pioneer 80prs for sound or a half assed alpine head unit that keeps trying to grasp on to brand loyalty and refuse to let their 1st tier head units sell direct from amazon.
Personally for the same price. Pioneer 80prs head unit, Kappa Pefect61 for the front, nothing for the rear PDX-V9 bridged to the fronts + an SA12D4 or something similar.
Too many people pay attention to brand and/or sheet numbers and ignore acutual specs.
http://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PLX32-3-5-Inch-Two-Way-Speakers/dp/B0002BEWZ6 fit right in
I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.
Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.
Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.
Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.
Can't go wrong with JBL GTOs: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO629-Premium-6-5-Inch-Co-Axial/dp/B00ANIECRQ
If it's more than you want to spend, you can go for the CLUB line: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-CLUB6520-2-Way-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B01KW1F6ZA
Solid construction either way.
Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers
Skip the rear, put Hertz dsk 6.5 components up front.
A wire kit and amplifier , bridged into 2 channel
Fast rings
sound deadener like so
If you're feeling adventurous, pull the seats and put closed cell foam mat under the entire floor. Lots of road noise complaints about the CRV.
I'd skip the rear entirely, and I would never put coaxials in the front and then add tweeters.
using eta prime's hdmi control board link for amazon this is the pair of speakers that comes up as the one most customers bought when buying the other parts of the cabinet mods.
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https://www.amazon.com/Car-Sound-Speaker-Pair-Non-fatiguing/dp/B000230LBI/ref=pd_sim_147_19?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000230LBI&pd_rd_r=59691b64-e78f-11e8-bed5-7dcfcd74da26&pd_rd_w=wyMJb&pd_rd_wg=l6VZa&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=11TNJW85CAVHX1WF1TBW&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=11TNJW85CAVHX1WF1TBW
For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:
Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849
Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2
Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860
Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.
For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869
Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LFVKHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NJybzb1WFRYR4
Or do fast rings
Yea. I want to make this for example (not using these, just needed a good ugly speaker for the example) look like the stock speakers. I want everything to look the same but sound much better.
I reupholstered my seats over the weekend. The job took a lot longer than anticipated but was worth the effort.
Before
After
Edit: I also changed out the headrest speakers for these 3.5" pyles which needed a bit of foam cut out but sound good.
These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.
Are you on FB groups? Nick from New Provisions Racing can hook you up with a deal on the door speakers, they don't have the tweeters.
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Tweeters.
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Doors.
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Just be sure to go on Subaru and DOUBLE CHECK that the part #'s on the Amazon listings match the model you need for your model and trim level and such. I'm 90% sure those links are a match, but you should def check just to be sure.
I wouldn't even buy a kenwood amp, but if I were in your position, and wanted better sound without breaking the bank, here's what I'd do.
4 of these($80/pair) on this amp($149). I'm no expert though, but that'd run you about $310, and I've heard good things about Polks DB series.
Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.
Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.
Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!
That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.
Edit: Link
Yeah, having Bluetooth or an Aux was the deal breaker on wanting to switch to something new. I was going to buy a single din Pioneer stereo, but I'm glad I found the Blaupunkt stereo instead.
I installed these polk speakers a while back and it was a huge improvement over stock. Adding in the new stereo made it that much better.
I always wondered if there was a way to add Bluetooth without a new head unit, but was a bit lazy on figuring it out. Good luck!
These are my recommendations. Are your 6x9's old? Because, they are cheap speakers, but they still shouldn't distort like that.
Some good 6x9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1398354095&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Some good 6.5" rounds
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1398354234&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Finally you said you wanted to maybe add a second 15"? This amp has 2 channels, so you could add the second some at any time. As for knowing if it is 2 or 4 ohms, you can use a digital multi meter (dmm) to measure the impedance in the sub. This is a 2 ohm amp, but a 4 ohm isn't hard to find.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CYL7LW/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid=1398354444&sr=8-12
I hope this helps!
Here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PV6F8I2?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS
Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.
I was tired of the shitty speakers I had falling out of the back hatch so I went in search of a rear sound bar.
I found one at the junkyard for $5 out of a pre-'97. I had no lights in the cargo area so I installed this 13.5"
swivelling light bar from superbrightleds.com..
Threw in some cheap Pyle 6.5" speakers and painted it with gray pasti-dip.
The biggest buyers remorse for me was the 730 Nav/XM radio with the hard drive. Jeez does that thing suck. I'm not kidding, it was a $1895 option and is worse than anything I've ever encountered. The XM sound quality is terrible - generally flat regardless of setup. The NAV functions cause instant rage trying to input a location, and of course they want $200 two years later to update the maps. The only thing that sounds halfway decent is playing high bitrate MP3s, but only after I replaced the garbage factory speakers with higher end units.
Basically, you could replace every single function the in-car entertainment system does with a cheap cell phone, and have it all done much better.
I have a 08 elantra I put the exact same Kenwoods in the rear doors. They sound great on the factory head unit, no distortion. Unlike the 60w RMS polks I have in the front doors which do distort (got to get an amp for those).
I did gain a bit of clarity and fidelity by swapping the stock speakers out for the kenwoods, but they are nowhere near as good as the polks; even though they are unamped.
Also as a side note, I got those Kenwood 1666 on amazon for $21, maybe you can too. It was about a month ago though.
edit: Found the Link they're actually $2 cheaper than when I got em.
edit2: beware, these didn't come with an adapter ring in the box. Might be something to consider when deciding to order from amazon. I'm pretty sure crutchfield includes them for free.
links -
amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JH3QSEC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1
high range :
https://www.parts-express.com/grs-3fr-4-full-range-3-speaker-driver-4-ohm--292-436
tweeters :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEOXHW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A15XS9XAUMP087&psc=1
low - mid - high range :
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KFC-6965S-Inches-3-Way-Speakers/dp/B00IB0YL56/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519615438&sr=1-1&keywords=kenwood+kfc6965s&dpID=51C9L43CxfL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
subwoofer :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9TSW1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1B7GYH7W1UCHI&psc=1
The Harmon speakers sound fantastic, I just didn’t see it worth the $3k package it comes with lol
The kickr tweeters, speakers, and sub is an optional upgrade you can buy at the dealership or on Amazon (click me)
I highly recommend getting a headunit if you can find a deal on one and if you want to challenge yourself with a DIY install. I’ve never installed one in my life but it was a fun experience.
For the fronts did you go a for a nested 2 way or a component?
I am still unfamiliar with the whole way the wattages work.
My understanding is that the Subwoofers Wattage level needs to match or exceed the sum of RMS across all speakers? So a 5 channel 650 watt amp could drive 4x 110 Watt speakers, and a 210 Watt Sub?
Would this kit work well?
I replaced only the front and rear speakers last year, kept the stock radio as I only listen to mp3's via my phone. What I didn't know was the factory speakers were 20W each (blech) and that soldering would be involved. Done and happy.
I have the same 2015 unlimited sport and the speakers were pretty bad.
I have this amp mounted under the driver dash to the left of the brake pedal. There is a little cross bar. I fabricated a bracket out of an old steel computer case and some rivets.
4x of the Kicker 77KICK10. Those are a direct fit part and improve the quality by far even without the amp
4x of these 3.5" speakers to replace the stock paper crap.
After replacing all of these, this sounds great for me. I also have a 10" sub that runs off the same amp in the back that I can remove at any time when I choose to take my hard top off. I just googled some Jeep speaker replacement and managed to do it all myself.
This is plenty loud so that if I had the top off and going down the highway I would have no problem hearing anything, no crackling or distortion. let me know if you have any particular questions
I like This MB Quart amp.
and if you don't go with Focal take a look at these Infinity Kappa 6x9s or These JBL 6x9s
Just installed these in my 2000 a week ago. It took 15 minutes, and all I needed was a Phillips screwdriver and the new wiring harness
Kenwood KFC-1666S Sport Series 300W 6.5" 6-1/2 in 2-Way Flush Mount Car Speaker / 2 Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJB67X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ua45AbZ2WTWPH
Metra 72-9300 Speaker Connector for Select Mazda/Nissan Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ff45AbQBSREC4
Let me know if you need any help, it was pretty straightforward though. Best of luck!
I've had good luck with the Rockford Fosgate Punch series of co-ax's. I also strongly recommend applying a small amount sound deadener (Noico from Amazon is good and cheap) around the area you are installing the speakers and a foam fast ring kit around each speaker. I have went this route on a couple of factory systems and it made a major improvement - all of these upgrades should be within your stated budget.
Links:
Speakers
Deadener
Fast rings
add these in the back, Use my polks up front. Then power with this or a different 100w RMS amp. Does that sound like a good plan?
Was it this?
amazon link
The foam rings are called Fast Rings. If you've already got the door apart, they aren't much added cost, and can help some. https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Rings-3-Piece-Speaker-Enhancement/dp/B016LFVKHY
Try running your current vehicle with the fader turned all the way to the front, so the back speakers are off, and see if you can live with it for a week. Some don't notice, others find the lack of fill in the rear troublesome. It's personal preference.
just found all the same stuff on amazon for $100 cheaper, so the total is around $630 including all the wiring kits and stuff. should I get nicer speakers? If I do get nicer speakers should I go for the Infinity Reference 8602cfx, the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 or the Alpine Sps-517's? or is there something better? Looks like the Alpines would give me the most RMS wattage for that Amp at 75w each. What do you think?!
Just looking around on amazon.ca and these came up well reviewed and on sale. Think these would be a good fit?
https://www.amazon.ca/Kenwood-KFC-6965S-9-Inch-3-Way-Speakers/dp/B00IB0YL56/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1540854940&sr=8-15&keywords=car+speakers
I created a mounting plate for dual speakers and where people are putting buttons you could make speaker holes
https://imgur.com/gallery/I3xQBgU
Got these upgraded speakers they even can mount in the stock location if you just want better quality
BOSS Audio BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Do you know How do the Bose speakers compare to this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000230LBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hd90BbKTE7CAD
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_46055_JBL_GX962.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-e13MeT3gIVT1qGCh0gdAIxEAQYCSABEgL0QPD_BwE
Above is gx series. A little over 2 ohms but 94 dB so should be ok.
JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mYLYBbDP4CDHQ
3 way gto series which is similar to what I had, I had the 2 ways as I felt that 3way can just be marketing talk at this level. There may be better deals out there.
I can't recall but I may have replaced the dash speakers with gtos as well, been a couple years.
I would like to replace the HU, but no one locally has worked on a 2017 Forester w/ the Eyesight, Starlink, and all of the collision avoidance they build into the cars. I think this is definitely the best route, but I would like a few more opinions, especially anyone who has done it already.
I used the term "tweeter" loosely. It's hard to tell exactly what they are, as they have passive crossovers built into them. They are literally designed to be plug and play. They may actually be closer to midrange than a true tweeter.
Amazon Link To Speaker
There is the link for what they are.
(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))
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I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.
But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.
On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.
Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS). So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).
The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).
As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music. Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.
Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why: you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power! (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!
Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only), the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).
Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.
Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.
Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.
I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.
I have used this in the past for an arcade machine:
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https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Home-Mini-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249390&sr=8-23&keywords=amp+pyle&dpID=51lERL5XyrL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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It's a bit light, but it worked pretty well with this pair of car speakers:
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https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-CH6530-Car-Speakers/dp/B000J1FABY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249440&sr=8-3&keywords=boss+car+speakers&dpID=419kc1idC3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I don't have an amp, this headunit is more than enough for stock speakers and, my speakers need to be replaced. Looking to replace with the OEM upgrade from kicker.Amazon link
Not to be a Pioneer fanboy, but they have a pair of 250W speakers that are pretty inexpensive
https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491113422&sr=8-1&keywords=jk+speaker
I just did these in my soundbar on my 2017. Difference is night and day and it took me all of 5 minutes to install them.
I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.
Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65
Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64
Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88
I only replaced the dash speakers and it cost $60
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P132-Punch-Speaker/dp/B001P86SP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fosgate+3.5&qid=1571157338&sprefix=fosgate+3.&sr=8-1
here that should work
Yes sir, Ram 1500.
I was looking at these for the 5.25" and these for the 6x9. I basically want a tweeter up top since the speakers are so low in the door.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-BRS40-Replacement-individually/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503958993&sr=1-1&keywords=raw%2Bspeakers&th=1
Here are the parts I'm considering so far
2 sets of these for all 4 doors
Alpine SPS-610C 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Type-S Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004THAWHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqsnyb7A57SH7
These 6x9 for rear deck
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WusnybVYBR8YD
This for getting signal to amp. Not sure if complete overkill for my goal setup.
AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bwsnyb2TGNBDW
And this subwoofer. I might go with 2 of them when I add them to my car.
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kysnybS8CXRZS
Like stated above I have no idea on the amplifier. I would like to have it power my speakers and subwoofer, so I'm guessing a multi channel would be better? In the end i would like to have a woofer and tweeter per door, 2 rear deck 6x9, and a subwoofer or 2. Please let me know if anything needs to change. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.
Coaxial speakers just means that the tweeter and woofer and built together, so you only have to install one thing. Components come with an external crossover(sends bass+mid to woofer, high end to tweeters) that everything connects to, which lets you place the separated tweeters in a separate location.
Dunno if your particular focus has seperate tweeters, or coaxial speakers, see if this video is your car. If it is then the size looks like 6"x9", which would be great if you like bass because 6x9 speakers are the next best thing to a dedicated sub-woofer.
Don't see any well-known brands of 6x9 speakers on Halfords, but Amazon.co.uk has some nice looking choices. Like these JBLS, if they will fit.
You'll have to take time to do a little research, to know what the exact size is. Or rip off the door panel and break-out the tape-measure.
Pioneer TS-A
Kicker CS
But if you can swing a few extra bucks, I'd REALLY recommend these Pioneer TS-D speakers. Those are highly underrated in this industry. They don't get the credit I think they deserve.
I had this driving my two of these and the amp was just entirely too much for them at anything past 15 volume on a scale to 50. It definitely is decent, but I don't have the means to test its actual output.
Damn I need to get new rear speakers then. I was thinking of this pair for my 1998 Chevy Tracker, I listen to rap/bass heavy songs a lot
(New speaker) Pioneer TSA1676R 6-1/2" 3-Way Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Z7ILY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qi9dBbCN1FTHC
Do you think this is a good quality set of speakers? For reference, here are the rear speakers I have now, will the new ones at least be better?
Pioneer TS-G1645R 250W 6.5" 2-Way G-Series Coaxial Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF5EQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nl9dBbR3YM2SH
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEWZ6
This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..
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Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.
DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
I have these and I've been happy with them.
The thing that sticks up in the center (Tweeter?) does touch the grill, but I haven't noticed a difference in sound because of it.
You will also need THIS adapter. BUT the tabs on the speakers will be too big for the connectors. Just trim down the tabs on the speakers a little bit (It's soft metal, I just used dikes to clip them.) and they'll slide in just fine.
i used this amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FAQQNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the cheapest pair of 4" car speakers that amazon had:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000230LBI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
generic one-way speakers would have also been fine for these classic games, but i actually couldn't even find them as cheap as this pair. this is way overkill compared to the audio setups that were in these classic games, and i was actually impressed with the quality of the sound from the amp in general
i didn't bother making the volume external, i just open the back of the cabinet to adjust if needed
4 door speakers were $200. Tweeters were $100 I think. Bought them separately.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JQRNHY8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would you happen to know if these are quality speakers as well? I've been researching some more ever since I got home and haven't seen any negatives about them.