(Part 2) Best dishwasher parts according to redditors
We found 33 Reddit comments discussing the best dishwasher parts. We ranked the 25 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
No need to cut off the existing elbow. Just unscrew the grey faucet hose from the existing elbow. Then attach a female-female hose like this and then a matching inline valve and then lastly attach it to the new faucet with a normal lavatory hose. Use shorter hoses, if you can.
An alternative to the female-female hose is to attach an adapter to your existing elbow, and then screw a suitable matching stop valve. Stop valves come in various input configurations. But you'd have to find an adapter with a FEMALE 3/8" compression, not MALE, to mate with your existing MALE elbow.
If that's a iron 1/2" pipe feeding into your existing elbow, then you can unscrew the elbow, and screw a new stop valve directly in its place.
Kenmore 4970JA3011A Spring
http://www.amazon.com/LG-Kenmore-4970JA3011A-Spring/dp/B001MS3MGS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452369114&sr=1-1&keywords=kenmore+spring+lever
https://www.amazon.com/GE-WH08X10036-Gasket-for-Washer/dp/B004H3XUEE
Wow--this is so close to my own situation that for a moment I wondered if I'd gone a drunken appliance repair bender. My washer is an SHE3ARL5UC (the "Ascenta" line). I already replaced the control board with one from ebay--the seller had great feedback and a track record so I don't think I was passed a bum one. Plus it'd be a hell of coincidence for two boards to have such similar problems.
The same behavior--a jump to clean early in the cycle--is recurring and seems to have gotten worse (retrying sometimes works, but decreasingly often). The repair manual sent me to the same trio of indistinguishable error codes as you (E:23, E:24 or E:25--who can say), plus a decently long explanation of things to check for the latter two. So I checked: the pump's impeller turns freely. There's no obstruction in the sump. I reseated the drain pump cover. I reset the codes. I filled the sump with water and lifted the check valve and the pump drained the water out--maybe with a little more startup complaining than I expected. Hm. No backflow, though. A multimeter reading between drain pump motor pins shows a resistance around 90 ohms--I'm having a hard time finding specific numbers for the part (611332) but this is a couple of times higher than people seem to expect for some similar pumps. I believe the reading is consistent across coils, though it's possible I screwed this up.
My best guess is that the drain pump is failing under load--I, too, get through some initial back & forth with the wash motor before the jump to "clean". Having finally gotten another successful load underway, it's clear that this is more back & forth than should normally occur prior to the primary flow of water beginning--presumably some sort of tentative diagnostic performed by the controller at cycle start that isn't liking what it sees from the drain pump. The main motor sounds a bit more cheerful than the admittedly smaller drain pump, too. It occurs to me that if one coil is bad we might both be playing an extremely boring and domestic game of roulette every time we attempt a cycle.
I've got a replacement pump on its way and will hopefully have more to report and an empty sink on Friday.
Here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ariston-C00054862-Hotpoint-Indesit-Dishwasher/dp/B009LM993C
Sorry, my bad.