Best parts & accessories according to redditors

We found 496 Reddit comments discussing the best parts & accessories. We ranked the 324 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Cooktop parts
Dishwasher parts
Freezer parts
Oven parts
Range parts
Refrigerator parts
Wine cellar parts
Appliance replacement fasteners
Clothes dryer replacement parts
Washer parts
Food waste disposer replacement parts
Range hood parts
Trash compactor replacement parts
Kegerator replacement parts
Beverage refrigerator replacement parts
Air conditioner parts & accessories
Carpet & upholstery cleaner accessories
Dehumidifier parts
Iron & steamer parts
Steam cleaner & steam mop parts

Top Reddit comments about Parts & Accessories:

u/timesuck · 20 pointsr/pittsburgh

The Allegheny County Health Department’s Housing program is who you should contact first. If you’re within the city of Pittsburgh, you may have to go through permits and licensing, but the health department should be able to guide you. They can also tell you if the vent violates existing building code. It might be possible that it only violates the manufacture’s warranty.

Also, are the hook-ups mentioned in your lease? If not, prepare yourself for the possibility that your landlord will repair the code violation by removing the hook-ups if you report him.

Just FYI, you can vent a dryer indoors with a special attachment.

u/SpareiChan · 10 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Ah the good-ole-duct trick.

> I'm so tempted to try and break 4.6GHz, but my apartment simply gets hot too fast if I go crazy with overclocking.

https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

I know people who do this with their main outs, forces the hot air outside, mounting can be tricky but can work well.

u/weatherjack_ · 6 pointsr/DIY
u/mintyice · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

$400 worth of beer.

All kidding aside, it looks like you could use some 6.5 glass carboys and a bigger brew kettle. Maybe get a temperature controller to make a nice fermentation chamber?

Here's a nice temperature controller.

Here's a decent two ported 9 gallon stainless kettle.

Here's a cheap propane burner that you'll want for all grain and full boils.

u/TheGuyWithTheBalloon · 4 pointsr/Judaism

This might be something you'd be interested in.

u/whalenmich · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

WE used these on our granite countertops and they have been perfect for 5 years and running: https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O

u/checkitoutmyfriend · 4 pointsr/BurningMan

One could set another bucket at a higher level than the FIgJam cooler. Then either use a valve to refill or an aquarium float in the FJ to maintain level. But a FJ cooler will run for4-6hrs. So refilling it is not that big of deal really. (Mine is used for grey water evap so I had a second bucket a valve setup.)

100ah deep cycle batts are the way to go. Don't cheap out and not go deep cycle. (FigJam himself uses a Wal-Mart $80 Deepcycle) Solar panels for other than trickle charge to the batt are labor intensive to keep clean and lose efficiency for the same. So they are good to keep the batt topped off, but not to rely in it running you gear. Unless you are really into solar and know what to expect. It's not all plug and play.

To duct into the tent depends on if you want to cut a hole or not. Some use a dryer duct wall vent. Its glued or screwed the the tent wall. Might have to make a ring to sandwich the material. I would use semi rigid duct as it is stiffer and restricts air flow less then the spring type ducts. Wrap with a towel or foil bubble wrap for some insulation. 5" with one end made to a square fits tightly around the PC fan frame. Problem is 5" is an oddball size for dryer vet fittings that are 4 or 6". Go 6" if you need to chose. less air restriction that way.

If you don't want to cut a hole than you need to stick through the door and seal it up the best you can with a towel or similar.

Be sure to have a vent in the ten to allow air to escape... Swamp are air in - air out cooling.

Here is a link for pumps, fans, media, etc.

If anyone has questions, let me know. I've built a number of them in various forms. Storage bin cooler last year. Trash can version this year. But I use them for grey water evap. A lot less messy then a evap pond or air driven evap.

u/Wyrdia · 4 pointsr/ferrets

I have the same kind, I got it here!

u/HeWillLaugh · 3 pointsr/Judaism

>Is there any way to build a tallis katan so the tzitzis can be easily removed or transferred between multiple sheets?

They are specifically required to be tied on rather than connected after having been made (obviously another reason Messianic strings are invalid, but that's a different story).

> I've been thinking of starting to wear them, but it seems like one would quickly become fairly dire, even if wool is supposed to suppress smell.

There's really no problem washing them. If you use a cotton garment, the only thing you need to worry about is the strings getting all knotty. In which case you can either hang them to dry after un-knotting them, or buy one of these things that you wrap the strings around during the wash. If you use a wool garment, many dry cleaners will accept it as a scarf.

u/PostHocErgo · 3 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Have you tried a different dryer vent design? Not advocating the specific product, but something like this.

u/jds580s · 3 pointsr/ChineseLaserCutters

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

u/Drefen · 3 pointsr/homeowners

You can easily do it yourself with something like this. I am sure you can find a longer one if necessary or buy 2 and use the rods to make it longer.

It really is a simple DIY project.

u/FascinatingPost · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Surprised nobody has recommended this.. I just did this and it's much easier than you think it is. Just wiggle the whole thing, the tray underneath and all, get to the vent and use this thing Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_01SBCb7GJMR72

u/makeyourowndamnbeer · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I’d try replacing the starter relay and capacitor first. Regardless of it working, it’s a $12 part and worth keeping on hand for future fridges too.

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E?crid=35KFDOZLD1YKV&keywords=refrigerator+starter+relay&qid=1537318052&sprefix=refrigerator+star&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3

u/gr8bier · 3 pointsr/atlbeer

A real helluva engineer wouldn't even ask that question. I'm disappointed, but willing to offer some guidance to get you back on track.

In all likelihood, the compressor is fine, and the problem is a failed starter relay. I was able to revive a "dead" freezer I got off CL by replacing the PTC Starter Relay, like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQFRT1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Probably the easiest thing to do is buy a Hard Start Kit like one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=pd_cp_60_1/142-1528411-3970020?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008YDSH6E&pd_rd_r=9159887b-4c9d-4262-bc3d-29a057ef67c9&pd_rd_w=rgcC7&pd_rd_wg=9fJEC&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH&psc=1&refRID=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Figure out the right one for your freezer; that 1st link has a place to enter your model number. You can just install this and be done, or if that gets it running, you could pull this back out and then replace the failed part, knowing that you're on the right track.

If the freezer doesn't run with the hard start kit, then cut your losses and replace the freezer. Hey GT ain't much for a sports fan lately, but they at least turn out people qualified for appliance repair.

u/ImThaBean · 3 pointsr/specializedtools

They sell dryer cleaning rods with a brush roll on one end. You slid it into the vent and hook the other side to a drill and feed it into the vent line until it pops out of the exit. Works wonders for those with long runs. My old house had a 15-foot vent run. Got A LOT of gunk out of it regularly.

u/SisAbq · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Sadly, this is something I know a lot about. Being able to vent outside is optimal, but it all depends on where your dryer is located. I had a dryer located in the middle of the house and the vent ductwork snaked thorough the ceiling to outside --a distance of about 20ft. The result was that even after we cleaned it (we found about 10 years of birds nest in there), the distance was so great, that the humidity would build up in that ductwork and every load to dry took an hour.
So if the dryer is next to an exterior wall, and you're not pounding through adobe, then definitely, do it. That will be the quickest solution. Get at least two bids from a handyman.

If you don't want to do this then you have to use a bucket with about 1" of water in it that comes with a trap-like device for the lint. The main drawback to this is that you must be diligent in cleaning both the dryer lint trap and the indoor lint bucket trap very regularly. If you're not, and say, you let the water dry out then you're literally pumping all that lint into a dry bucket and the stuff will go all over your laundry room and house. I bought a condo, and the seller was such a slob, she literally had a 1" build up on all the walls and shelves in this closet that held the W/D. It was the most disgusting thing -next to the birds' next, that I'd ever cleaned out.
They also have wall mounted units. BetterLintTrap

Ah, it's such a pain. Like I said, if it's an exterior wall, having a hole cut in is the better solution.

u/NotAHost · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

Not sure where your exhaust vent is on your dryer, but check something like this out, it may be slightly better than your current situation.

This one is a bit pricier, don't know how well it works, but should work well.
Filtered indoor vent

A lot are cheaper and use water... I'm assuming yours may do this already. Cheap ones tend to spew water out.

Here's a better one with steel filter and water.

u/ICA_Agent47 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Don't bother with the smart pot brand pots, just find a good fabric grow bag with handles. I use these. I'd also get a different pH tester, or go the analog route with some of this, it's kind of annoying to do but it works. Blue Lab makes very reliable meters, they are worth the extra money if you decide to buy a meter. A lot of problems are caused by improper pH, you definitely don't want to cheap out on a meter (unless you wanna buy new ones all the time). Analog is just as reliable although you can't be as precise with your measurements as you can with digital. This hasn't been a problem for me.

To address some of your questions: Your plan for ventilation sounds fine, you may want to get a window dryer vent to assure the air doesn't flow back through your window. This also makes it a little more stealth.

Nutrients won't be necessary for about 30 days in FFOF because it's a hot soil. In fact if you feed them anything you'll probably burn them. Some seedlings will burn in FFOF regardless of whether or not you feed them nutes, some people recommend their happy frog soil for starting seedlings, then transplanting into FFOF after the roots have developed. Usually you'll be fine in FFOF so I wouldn't worry as long as you're feeding plain water for the first 25-30 days.

You should also get a hygrometer to monitor temps and humidity, it's very helpful in diagnosing potential problems. Other than that and some liquid nutes you've got what you need on that list.

Also, you should definitely start in a smaller container than 5 gal for your seedlings. Get some of those red solo cups, oversized if you can find them. You can establish the plant in those and transplant them right into the 5 gallon.

u/srareddit · 3 pointsr/homeowners

Buying the kit for the first time. Thoughts on this one?

u/uses_for_mooses · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

I agree with this. Or, if you're lazy, you can buy new drip pans for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GZA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

u/eric987235 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Somebody on this sub recommended these things but I'm worried they won't roll on carpet. The laundry room is tile (or was it laminate?) but the room outside is carpet.

(reposting this comment with the right link format)

u/AireyLynn · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

•What did you wish you knew or learned before owning your first house? Honestly, my husband is awesome and takes care of all these little things around the house. 1. Houses have filters for the air system if they have a central air unit. And if you're like me, change that thing often! I have allergies. 2. Depending on where you live, make sure there's nothing you need to do before winter comes. We live in the great white north so we make sure our spicket outside is set for winter. We accidentally left our hose out all winter last winter. 3. Get a Lint Brush for your dryer. When you notice your clothes aren't getting dry like they used to anymore, check for a huge lint monster! 4. If you have a sump pump (ours is under our stairs) check it regularly to make sure it's working. Especially before your rainy/wet seasons. Better to be proactive about maintenance then have a wet basement. That's our learning so far :)

•What the hell do I do for the next 30 days? How do I not poop myself out of stress and excitement? I can't help you there! Haha!

•What is the best way to pack? To purge stuff I don’t need? Do I just Kondo it all? Honestly yes, I would say purging while you pack will help when you get to the new house and start putting stuff away. You will always accumulate more things haha. Also in terms of packing label all your boxes with which room they go in, that way when you're hot and sweaty moving you don't have to think about where they go. And label them if they're fragile, so when your packing the truck you know which boxes shouldn't be on the bottom etc. Use garbage bags for clothes! Just grab a bunch on hangers and wrap a garbage bag around them instead of taking them off the hangers just to put them back on.

•How is the best way to move when you don’t have friends and don’t want to hurt yourself lol? Without hiring movers, then I would say that you want to get a big truck to fit everything at once so you only have to make one trip. If it's hot, drink lots of water, take lots of breaks.

•When should I reserve the Uhaul? The sooner the better to ensure you'll get the size truck you want.

•I know I need to set up water and trash and transfer utilities. When do I do that? Do it now. Call the companies, they're prepared and will just ask you when you close on your house, usually they will take care of the rest then.

•I’m gonna probably hire cleaners for our apartment just because I’m gonna be so busy. Any other apartment move-out tips? Nope! Did you document when you moved into your apartment for any damages that were already there? If so, I would find that just in case the apartment wants to blame you for that stuff.

•Any YouTube or book resources for home owning for idiots? Honestly we just youtube stuff as we go haha.

•Things we totally need that we didn’t know we’d need. The lint brush I told you before. Also 9V batteries because you'll have a ton of smoke detectors if it's a newer construction. If it isn't maybe look to see how many are in your house, do you think there's enough smoke detectors?

•How do I live with my very old MIL and not go insane? Oh no no, I can't help you there. My MIL would drive me bonkers!

•we have to landscape our own backyard. Where do I find a good person to pour my very simple concrete slab? I want a clover lawn because I’m allergic to grass. Is that stupid? I can't help you with the concrete, I have my husband find our people, but the clover lawn sounds amazing! I am also allergic to grass haha!

​

GOOD LUCK! YOU CAN DO IT!

u/phoephus2 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

new dishwashers come with metal clips and mount to the sides of the adjacent cabinets. for old top mounting ones use granite grabbers.

u/SchnaapsIdee · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Sounds like you already tried a short metal connector but said it wouldn't fit. I'm surprised that you couldn't get the ruffled side in enough give you something to grip. Sometimes you need to get some pliers and manipulate the edges to get it to cram in.

But anyway, Maybe try something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Dryer-Dock-Vent-Tubes-White/dp/B0028BAAWW

Even if the white plastic part doesn't fit in your hole you could saw that part off with a coping saw or something so it sits flush against the hole and attach it stud/drywall around the hole.

u/BackyardAndNoMule · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

you can get a window duct and duct it out that way... that way you aren't recycling humidity into the room.

Also, clean your room. A clean space is a clean mind.

u/majesticjg · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Could you run it inside the wall, up and out the roof with something like this?

If I were you, I'd consider removing the exterior siding and window from that wall, since it's now an indoor wall, and switching it to drywall. Do exterior siding and windows on the outside of your home. This will also help make your add-on look less like an add-on.

If you pull the siding off, you can try to re-run the duct inside the wall while the wall is open.

u/eiphren · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

I've used that style and it's terrible. I finally found one that I like.

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nSWDxb7BZ3ABC

The magnetic thing in the GIF would work really well.

u/crashsector · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Your dishwasher should have caps just inside the door on the side that pop off to reveal holes. You can screw in to the cabinets on either side here and not need to screw in the top at all.

EDIT ignore, it helps if I read the whole post.

I had luck with these adhesive mounting things from Amazon. Let me find the link.

Granite Grabbers Dishwasher Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UQ107O/

u/Would_u_lookatthat · 2 pointsr/DIY

Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CkEIDb0NFGP6Y

Could that fit in the top if it slides down? Nothing unsafe about just throwing it out but if the heats on forget trying to keep it in with that window open.

The ones with the condenser take a significantly longer time to dry. And lots more parts = less long term reliability

u/dingledorfer2 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

OK, forget about the keezer needing to be under the counter. Mount the tower throught the lid as you normally would, except as far forward as possible. Complete the keezer as you would if it was going to be a stand alone unit.

Roll the keezer under the counter until the uprights of the tower come into contact with the counter top. Determine how much farther back you want the keezer to roll and cut slots in the counter top to accommodate the tower uprights as you roll it the rest of the way in. Round the back of the slots so they fit to the shape of the tower uprights.

As you roll the keezer as far under the counter top , the uprights on the ends of the tower will go all the way into the slots. The keezer will be where you want it now. Sitting or mounting this type of drip tray between the tower and the edge of the counter will hide the open parts of the slots: https://www.amazon.com/YaeBrew-Length-Rectangular-Stainless-Surface/dp/B07PXKJF7C/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=drip+tray+for+beverage+dispenser&qid=1569252720&sr=8-17

When you need to access the keezer to change kegs, etc., just remove the drip tray and roll the keezer out. If you can't find a drip tray long enough use 2 shorter ones.

I use these under my keezer so can be rolled out: https://smile.amazon.com/SoftTouch-4260795N-Waxman-Expandable-Appliance/dp/B004670WB0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=39I3MCSQYDQ0D&keywords=rollers+for+refrigerator&qid=1569253660&sprefix=rollers+for+refr%2Caps%2C394&sr=8-1

They only increase the height by about 1 1/4".

u/thrakkerzog · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I have a magnet on my dishwasher which works remarkably well. It's been on there for 5 or 6 years now and actually looks pretty nice.

It looked like this https://www.amazon.com/Appliance-Art-Stainless-Dishwasher-Trimmable/dp/B005DJ7CFE although I don't know if that's the exact one my wife got or not.

Dishwashers are easier because you only ever see the front of them and there is no profile to worry about.

u/rrrdee · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Check this out: Whirlpool 4396037RP 0-to-18 Inch Vent Periscope Whirlpool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_ASoWBbQRXMZ7T

u/Thrgd456 · 2 pointsr/appliancerepair

They make a terminal block kit that comes with new wires to splice into the harness. And of course you have to buy a new cord. If you are not comfortable splicing wires then you should call someone but it is an easy repair. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS

u/ExPostRedemptore · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

There are any number of these available, though most are 2" wide. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S

u/Qlanger · 2 pointsr/nova

As said its very easy to do. If you leave a deposit you are welcome to use my dryer cleaning tool. Just hook it up to a drill and it will clean it out well.

For those wondering what I and others are talking about its this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

u/Shurafa · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Well this is an interesting and unexpected tangent. This is the product we are using for venting. Curious to get your feedback on it.

It's an electric dryer. It seems as thought the exhaust is just steam and lint. Am I missing something?

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tScxzbZ07FAV7

u/KSNZ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Amazon. It was $19.99 USD before shipping when I bought it.

u/AparentyImTheAsshole · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/SonicPipewrench · 2 pointsr/jewelrymaking

If you are only using butane torches and a pickle pot, you may be able to get away without one, but it is healthier if you use ventilation. You are going to inevitably burn oils and other contaminants and that should not be going into your lungs.

A 200 CFM, 4" duct fan can be used with a dryer hose and a 'vent periscope' box to make a permanent in-window vent system. Add some duct insulation and it won't bleed heat. The basic setup is about $60.


https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/

My periscope box installed: https://imgur.com/MIJTJDY

My vent setup: https://imgur.com/tNHUJ8X

I'm using Acetylene, and that gives off soot, so I *need* a vent system. I will probably add a stove hood from the remodelling surplus store just for better smoke collection.

u/Sands43 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Because flex isn't going to seal well on the exterior wall. Galvanized sheet metal tube will allow you to seal the hole better.

The other trick is to have the exterior dryer vent pipe behind the washer. This makes installation of the dryer vent pipe not "blind".

Use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=adjustable+dryer+vent&qid=1572968068&s=hunting-fishing&sr=8-1

Basically:

  • Install dryer and connect pipes, tape with UL listed aluminum tape.
  • Pipe is routed from behind dryer to behind the washer.
  • Install washer, since the hoses are flexible and it's easier to slide it back as you don't need to align anything.

    I'd get reports on service calls for dryers. The #1 issue for "won't dry well" is that the pipe was too short. The fix was to restrict the flapper on the outside by of the house by ~50% with a screw.
u/j4ckofalltr4des · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Does the gas dryer get the clothes hot?

If so, the venting could be the issue. Most places Ive lived, The vent line ran through the house or garage to the front or rear of the house. Ive paid $50-$70 to have someone come out and clean out the dryer vent lines and its made a HUGE difference when they get clogged.

This is not needed if the outside vent is directly behind the dryer but you should still pull the dryer out and check there are no clogs in the line.

You can buy a DIY kit for about $20 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Dryer-Duct-Cleaning-Extends/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9DHKNVPT742EK4GPP46A

u/mxzf · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You mean like this?

u/MicaBay · 2 pointsr/appliancerepair

Picture isn't working well.
Are you talking about this?
https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS

u/GasBomb4 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Amazon Vent


This is what I use. Easy to install and hook a hose.

u/6trees1pot · 1 pointr/microgrowery
u/Uberg33k · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

You don't give a $ of how much you're willing to spend, but the #1 thing you can do to help improve the quality of your brewing is control your fermentation temperature. Even if you stick to kits and extracts, your beer will be better if you can control fermentation temperature. I would go out and look for a chest freezer or even a large-ish dorm fridge and outfit it with an external temperature controller. I use this, but there are lots of options out there. Having 2 stage so you can cool and heat is definitely a bonus.

I don't really see a point in moving to all grain or kegs if you can't ensure you're properly fermenting your beer. Get the temperature under control, then worry about the other stuff.

u/GideonD · 1 pointr/DIY
u/pkeller3 · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Check the vent. It's free. I had a clog near where the vent exited my house in the attic because someone put a 8in cylinder of chicken wire in the duct. I should have checked there first, but I only spent ~$20 on this when I was debugging.

u/mdeckert · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Wow, did I spend an extra $50 to get my temps in Fahrenheit? I got one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Products-TC-9102D-HV-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0057APR3I

u/weebernugget · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Maybe past owner tried to snake out the drain with some sort of rod system (the photo almost looks like a vent cleaner you would use for a dryer vent https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ ) and it broke?

u/idamnedit · 1 pointr/DIY

What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/SoftTouch-4260795N-Waxman-Expandable-Appliance/dp/B004670WB0 I bought it to put under my cat's litter box so I could easily slide it out from under a shelf. The only downside is that is doesnt turn easily.

u/stkchk4 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

There is actually something made specifically for this problem indoor lint trap filter

u/s0rce · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I struggled with this for a year after buying a house with an improperly attached dishwasher under a granite countertop. I tried the stick on Granite Grabbers (https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032272&sr=8-1&keywords=dishwasher+attachment) but our counter surface on the bottom side was too rough and they never stuck. I ended up buying this mounting bracket (https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Dishwasher-Bracket-by-EZ/dp/B01N0GWLK7/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032307&sr=8-2&keywords=dishwasher+mounting) and screwing in some additional wooden braces on both sides

u/LovableSpaghetti · 1 pointr/Appliances

Is indoor venting out if the question? Like this?

u/Refrigeration1 · 1 pointr/microgrowery
u/Mangorunner · 1 pointr/Flipping

About eight years ago, I mailed four heavy spanner wrenches that all fit perfectly into a single SMALL flat rate box. Went from Florida to Washington State for like $5 or $6 at the time.

u/Keebie81 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

How about a window dryer vent setup? The vent has a flap so only air out as long as flow is good. https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

u/porkchopnet · 1 pointr/homeowners

If it’s super short, yeah you could do it like that... shove the vac tube into the dryer tube. But if it’s longer then that, you’ll need something like this:

Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q3SyCbBE3N5DX

Turn your dryer on with the heat off, attach to power drill, and feed that in from the outside of the house.

Don’t clean flexible tube this way, only the “hard” sheet metal tube. You’ll be surprised at how much comes out.

This is also a common service provided by handymen.

u/Kontu · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Unhook from dryer, use one of these Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

u/Mortimer452 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The dryer is likely fine.

Don't be surprised if your washer has some leaks. Our home actually has two washer/dryer hookups, we have a washer/dryer in both, but one pair is very seldom used. If the washer sits for more than a month or so unused, the bottom seal dries out and it drips/splatters water. I replaced the seal a few times; we finally decided to just stop using it altogether. The most expensive part of the repair was buying a special wrench to remove the tub nut. You'll probably need one too - research and make sure you get the right one for your model.

I would hook it up in your driveway first, plug it in with an extension cord and run it through a cycle to look for leaks. Just use a cheap hose splitter with a garden hose and hookup both hot and cold sides to your garden hose.

u/Kensik · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not sure on both points there is a us store http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Backplate-Cooling-Case-100-BP-0972-B9/dp/B00OSAT62Q not sure about shipping thow

u/anadune · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I've used two of these: Control Product Temp Controller Will purchase a 3rd when it comes time to add another freezer to my collection.

*edit: should mention it needs wiring also. Once I figured it out it was dead simple.

u/Stottymod · 1 pointr/ferrets

Ferrets do well in groups, and a friend is recommended if possible. We had a deaf girl, and she was the most adorable of the bunch, never had many health problems, and any she had could more likely be attributed to being the runt of the litter.

Is your vet a general vet or an exotic vet? Some veterinarians don't have much experience with ferrets.

What kind of temperature is she usually in, how old is she, and does she drag herself when walking? Energy levels could be a contributor.

Ferrets each like different things, and there are many things to try, but if she likes the tunnel, I suggest looking at clear plastic dryer tubing, Like this one

u/LucidOneironaut · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

I have this thing. It's nice http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Lint-Trap-Filter-LTF0001/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1452290224&sr=8-14&keywords=lint+catcher keeps the basement nice and warm, and where I live its fairly dry in the winter, so it adds a bit of moisture to the air.

u/Oofheyt · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Backplates apparently help cool the card but it's more of an aesthetic choice. You can purchase backplates for EVGA cards separately like I did.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Backplate-Cooling-Case-100-BP-0972-B9/dp/B00OSAT62Q/

u/Plo99 · 1 pointr/trees

Just going to use something like this Dryer Vent Window

u/rilech18 · 1 pointr/homelab

Exactly my plan. Found a good and quite fan designed for AV racks and a special vent designed for windows:

The vent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-39QCb1FACNR0

The fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c0aRCb9HB2TGH

And a standard dryer hose and a custom “box” to fit to the back of the rack and have a 4” hole in the top (to benefit hot air rising) that goes to the fan then the vent.

u/calcium · 1 pointr/interestingasfuck

But the covers over my burners are also made of metal and the nice ones are either covered in ceramic, or are simply metal. I don't see how this changes anything. For example http://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA

u/randombullet · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I bought mine on Amazon. Make sure you get the correct model.

u/Tossahoooo · 1 pointr/homeowners

Also

  • Get yourself one of these and clean the dryer vent. Good to do about once a year too.
u/ScapegoatZovc · 1 pointr/watercooling

Hey!

So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.

I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.

My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.

I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.

Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?

Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?

Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?

How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?

u/yota-runner · 1 pointr/fixit

I've already got a new 4-prong cord but I need to replace the tab on the right there first. Would a butt splice electrical taped on be alright?


Edit: Bought everything I need, thanks everyone for the input.

u/KegOutlet · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Looks good! We build a GIANT fermentation fridge and were going to put one of those together, but ended up just going with a Johnson temp control unit.

I'll have to post pics of our fridge build.

u/Holly_Tyler · 1 pointr/ferrets

I've heard about dryer tubes from others so I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFTEO/ and it was half the price of a Marshall's thru-way. Unfortunately, it was also half the distance of the thru-way and the plastic was very thin. I recently had to throw it out because it was torn in places and the wire at the end was poking through and scratching them. Meanwhile, the stupid Marshalls tube has lasted years so I think it's worth the extra $.

Cereal boxes you say? Ok, I'm inspired. Sometimes I tape together beer boxes to make little forts for them to play it, but I'm thinking if I cut up the cereal boxes and roll them, tape then into a tube shape, they'd love it! I could even attach them to the beer box....

Am I a crazy ferret lady? Yes.

u/anarchyx34 · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Try one of these. It replaces the relay, capacitor and overload.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YDSH6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

USA

I am going to replace my current controller which has an awful user interface.

u/doughcastle01 · 1 pointr/fixit

tldr Ultimately I never found the part anywhere and used a universal/non-oem part. If you have the same fridge, it should work for awhile. It's probably important to get the right horsepower.

Funny story, I looked everywhere online and never found the part for sale. I did find the universal part (linked above) that looked like it would work, but a lot of people said it would eventually burn out the compressor.
It didn't seem likely but I have more free time than money these days so I decided I would try a local appliance parts store. I brought the part to be replaced down to the store, and they could not determine the model from the part so they didn't know if they had it. I was pretty sure they didn't have it anyway, so I asked if I could buy the universal part (which they had, hanging next to the cash register). The lady whistled and said ohhh nooo, you can't use that, just come back or call back with the model #, when I asked how much it would probably be she said maybe 50-60 dollars. So I went back home, got the exact model number off a tag I finally found inside the fridge, and called her back, and she confirmed they didn't have it. They were selling the universal part for not much more than the price online, so I decided to save some of my food and go buy it there. When I got there was a different lady, but she did the same ohhhh noooo you can't use that. I gave her the model # and after she couldnt find the oem part, she sighed and said "Men." immediately did a 180 and rang up the universal part.

The installation was pretty simple, there's a diagram on the bag that shows you what to hook up and it includes the caps and stuff you need. I couldn't find a place to clip it so I just duct-taped it to the inside of the fridge. It's a little noisy when it kicks on but it works and saved me a few bucks.

u/dunnowtfimdonig · -1 pointsr/AskEngineers

I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them