(Part 2) Best electrical testing products according to redditors
We found 433 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical testing products. We ranked the 151 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
DIY Price:
Karambit Knife: $8.69
Stattrack Counter: $10.13
Metal Paint: $14.70
Total Price: $33.52
A 117 is a pretty standard meter that will handle your basic measurements. Any of them will be safe for computer and automotive use if used properly. Dc clamp meters are handy for automotive. This one is pretty handy for catching smaller dc currents although the trade off is the jaws are small for larger cables such as those to the starter.
Dealer tech here,
First off, do you have any aftermarket remote start or alarm equipment installed in the vehicle?
All your volt testing looks like about what i'd expect.
I find the amp clamp somewhat suspicious. Subaru calls this "Dark Current" (also known as parasitic draw, dark draw, etc.) and ideally you should use a small-jaw clamp (i use this) that is considered "accurate" at sub-100 mA. Typically the large-jaw clamps are fine for 1A+ measurements but the resolution isn't great for lower amperages. In either case, you need to be damn sure the jaws are fully closed. I find the negative cable end easier to get the jaws around typically. You also need to zero the tool as close to the position the measurement would be in as possible - things like florescent lights can affect the readings. (My shop is full of florescent lights and turning my meter 90 degrees can throw it off by 60mA or more!)
That all being said, subaru's spec for dark current is 70mA or less. (They even published a bulletin about it, #07-85-14, which might be good for a read) so if you're confident that your measurement is accurate, then the likely culprit is the battery.
Also, all this testing and potentially a battery replacement is covered under your 3yr-36k mile warranty if you still have it.
They actually have an appendix in "Learning the Art of Electronics" that explains what equipment you can use.
A bare minimum would a breadboard and some way to power it, a multi-meter, an oscilloscope and a function generator.
You can also get a powered breadboard (http://www.amazon.com/Global-Specialties-PB-503-Digital-Workstation/dp/B005S3SC0E) which has a power supply and function generator built in.
You will also want wire of various colors and wire strippers/pliers.
not really, it's almost the price of a DER EE de 5000, which is an actual good lcr meter in addition to just being able to test ESR.
https://www.amazon.com/5000-Handheld-LCR-Meter-accessories/dp/B00S298KJO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DER+EE+5000&qid=1554329265&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell
TED Talk - Wireless Wake Up Call
RF Acoustimeter
AAEM - RF Position
Opt Out
Radiowaves disrupts the circadian rhythms and melatonin production.
If I need to bunk out, I take my car to a remote location, away from power lines, cell towers. Sleeping in nature is AMAZING. Literally best sleep EVER. If you can't go far, you can sleep during the day at like a park or maybe parking lot?
I was about to say the same thing, I had the opposite problem where my code was too slow and removing debug flags made it much much faster. This is probably your issue. And you're going to want a logic analyzer for doing embedded work.
If you need a budget analyzer try this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LSG5P2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It works well with both PulseView and Salaea.
Microwaves are analogous to very penetrating Infra Red light. They heat things up, but do not ionize tissue. They combine the heating effects of light with the penetrating ability of radio waves. The only worry might be their effect on electronics such as a pacemaker.
Radio shack used to sell this though it is discontinued. See this instead.
Here's a link to a 21$ one: https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Electromagnetic-Radiation-Detector-Dosimeter/dp/B013HQ0S1Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1543146837&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=geiger
ATP :
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adenosine_triphosphate
ADP:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adenosine_diphosphate
AMP:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adenosine_monophosphate
THE ROLE OF ATP IN SLEEP REGULATION:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3246291/
INTRO: ATP AS A NEUROMODULATOR
ATP and its metabolites regulate multiple processes in the nervous system including sleep regulation (Burnstock et al., 2011).
Excellent glossary (here) :
http://healthysleep.med.harvard.edu/healthy/glossary
http://healthysleep.med.harvard.edu/healthy/science/what/sleep-patterns-rem-nrem
"Circadian alerting signal" and sleep.
Are there long term side effects to chronically "Short sleep" ?
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5449441/
CSS (Chronic Short Sleep) is defined as less than 6 hours sleep in 24 hour period
"we do not know whether the shorter sleep times have lasting effects on neurobehavioral performance and/or brain aging"
"Circadian phase delay"
PSILOCYBIN:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psilocybin
DMT and PSILOCYBIN:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Drugs/comments/9yzb2q/took_dmt_for_the_first_time_last_nightholy_shit/?utm_source=reddit-android
RBD REM ....REM Behavior Disorder.
On this thread .... Read the full story
On the REM page infra.
DAN RATHER REPORTS : PILL MILL
https://youtu.be/9-u5J0SX1yg
https://youtu.be/dHVOROfd7Og
Ideopathic or Primary Insominia
Primary Insominia is resident to the
Sleeper's brain not thought to be caused by an outside pathogen.
This would be e.g., FFI but even FFI has a known cause.
Secondary Insominia is defined as Insominia caused by an outside agency like a virus or bacteria or fungi.
MOST INSOMINIA IS CAUSED INSOMINIA and that means Insominia is generally Secondary and caused insominia.
Sleep Maintanice Insominia.
............
PARASOMNIA (S):
Parasomnias are disruptive sleep disorders that can occur during arousals from rapid eye movement (REM) sleep or arousals from non-rapid eye movement (NREM) sleep. They can result in undesirable physical or verbal behaviors, such as walking or talking during sleep.
............
Never take Seroquel for Insominia:
https://youtu.be/nsjoFnHxG30
We are not really eqpt here to talk about each and every drug used for insomina or off label Rxd for sleep but Seoquel apperas to be especially suspect when used off lable ...
More on drugs at:
r/Drugs_Info
I co mod this site and I know we cover and continue to add more and more drugs to our coverage week by week! Seroquel full page soon this sub!
Prion Disease. Very interesting topic in medicine but beyond the scope of this sleep sub but for more information here:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prion
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmissible_spongiform_encephalopathy
NOTHING HERE:
I shant know nothing at the edge of the SWAMP ... Just more SWAMP benign.
............
Be sure you know/understand and can apply in/to/through context both of these ideas:
Context sleep memory
and
Matrix sleep memory
both my original concept terms in sleep literature published fair use applies 12 08 18.
...............
CPAP & CPAP MACHINES
"Continuous Positive Air Pressure"
Low UV Sleep/wake therapy light
Phillips mfg.
P 1. Blue Light
.........
SLEEP WALKING : Aspects and resources
...........
OCD "Obsessive Compulsive Disorder"
Colic
ACT Acceptance Commitment Therapy. thanks : u/arikr
How much Sleep .... Before Exam?
https://mindinsiders.com/how-much sleep-before-exam/
ASMR HYPNOSIS SEX & SLEEP
What's the connection? Maybe.
.....................................
****
.....................................
12 10 18
...................
RF radiation disrupts the bodies circadian rhythm, and disrupts melatonin production, which is why cellphones keep us up at night. I would recommend, putting your cellphone in airplane mode when you go to bed, but there may be powerful rf sources near you, wifi router, or a cell tower.
TED Talk - Wireless Wake Up Call
RF Acoustimeter
American Association of Environmental Medicine - RF Position
Opt Out - How to, with Dr. Laura Presley
IT'S ALWAYS SOMETHING !
A lot of people like ceramic tipped tweezers or pliers, and serious e cig guys get those ohm meters to test coils on. Not an electricians multi meter, but a thing you plug your atty into.
One of these but I have no idea of this brand Is any good https://www.amazon.com/Jiayuane-Digital-Resistance-Voltage-Atomizer/dp/B0791XY8NX
Metal spring test probe
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPQ6ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_duXBCbK18TPKE
Parts list is dependent on what controller you use. This is a decent one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195V53X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_n5DWCbX7WY6NB
You will need a box or container for the pid and wires. A temp probe that will work in the 500c temps. And a solid state relay. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Solid-SSR-25-3-2-32V-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_3/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0087ZTN08&pd_rd_r=0b211574-6776-11e9-b475-c358acaaf9b4&pd_rd_w=As9SE&pd_rd_wg=uOeRp&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&psc=1&refRID=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&th=1
That's an example, I need to do more digging to make sure its capacity is ok. I think it should work.
In general, a pid controller says "turn on the relay when the temperature is between x and y. Turn off when the temperature reads z.
This type of probe would work
https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Prime-TL1815-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B0142S9J4S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_79_1/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0142S9J4S&pd_rd_r=49d6e55b-6777-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=eR1mx&pd_rd_wg=w1VKC&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&psc=1&refRID=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&th=1
Haha! Yeah, thanks. I built it with a tripod mic stand I wasn't using and got the orange Pamona Test Lead Holders and an appropriately sized clamping collar to keep it at the right height and still be able to spin it around to access cables on all four sides.
Voltage is important. You could be looking at "real" RS232 or something like TTL/CMOS UART. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the pins will be wired as they are in the cables you linked (especially if going to JST). Best practice would be to check ground continuity (while off) and voltage levels (while on) and use a logic analyzer on the inputs (eg. Haven't used this exact one, but it is a popular Chinese clone https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Analyzer-Ferrite-Channel-Arduino/dp/B077LSG5P2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1555138013&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41wZsMYKyUL&ref=plSrch). Note that if you do find voltages in excess of 5 v, you are probably working with spec RS232 voltages and you should use a different logic analyzer than the one that I linked.
Sure thing!
10X Probes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENF272C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3.5 to BNC Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWZS7D8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These will allow you to test devices with the DSO Nano V3 oscilloscope up to 100 volts.
Best of luck to you!
You need some K type thermocouples sir. Most come in waterproof housings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142HFA06/ref=pd_aw_sim_79_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=78VK726FEHSSH2C6MRX3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142RXG84?psc=1
The issue is that a lot of devices emit MHz to GHz noise. Ideally you want a device that can analyze the spectrum as various devices have different amplitudes and frequencies. Only a certain percentage will actually be a transmitter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GM72CGU/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0TNMKC4DJYKW8YZ8YST2&dpPl=1&dpID=41Dws7FNQCL a single led does tell you much and her device will give a lot of false positives b/c it can distinguish a noisy power supply from a transmitter.
if you want a stand alone device, this has worked great for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QHQSB8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142RXG84/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the base unit auto turns off every 8 minutes, but you can easily turn it back on for the 2nd half of the roast. i'm using this until i decide what electronics i want to cobble together for an automated solution.
OP, it’s possible your current sensor isn’t getting data through properly. How fast does it actually charge? It may be useful to pick up a cheap USB current & voltage meter. I got a nice one and I have used it countless times.
[Cheap](USB Meter, DROK Digital Multimeter USB 2.0, Multifunctional Electrical Tester, Capacity Voltage, Current Power Meter Detector Reader with Dual USB Ports, LED Displahttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ss8IDbE6C7JCJ)
[The one I have with unlimited useful tools. ](AVHzY USB Meter Tester Multimeter USB Load Current Tester Voltage Detector DC 26.0000V 6.0000A Test Speed of Charger Cables Capacity of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R7YRM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Gc6nVKprYh32G)
Amazon
Many multimeter's will also measure some range of capacitance, but it depends on your needs. I give another vote for the Mega 328 based multifunction testers. My personal device is a "Drokking" Chinese clone, which added a color screen. There are many other versions available.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multifunction-Transistor-Automatic-Identified/dp/B01MS1FOYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523595943&sr=8-1&keywords=drok+transistor+tester
These things are awesome- fairly accurate, and a real time saver if you're working with discrete components often.
I did find this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TCWL1E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_KDy7ybCTN2SPC
Will probably buy them for the teams as it's just a general troubleshooting tool. Big $$$ savings when we are buying 20 of them!
Thankyou for the help sir! It'll be my first! Definitely borrowing the harness from work for the first go :)
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-GQ-Multi-Field-Electromagnetic-Radiation/dp/B07JGJ897T/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=rf+detector&qid=1551243847&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Emf meter, good idea?
This is the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Clamp-Meter-Uni-Trend-UT203/dp/B005HOPRRK
Some clamp meters are AC only. The clamp acts as a current transformer. This one is AC/DC, uses a Hall effect sensor. I need DC capability for automotive stuff.
I've got one of these on my Amazon list.
Good enough for day-to-day tinkering / identifying those random parts you got in a box of junk years ago. That one's packaged better than others I've seen on ebay/Amazon/etc.
OMG I legit have 1st hand experience with this! Much more extreme example:
Pomona 1508/POM Test Lead Holder for Wires Up to .210" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXPSKX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yP8HDb6PNRD6E
Sure enough I made sure to buy 1 and have them shipped in separate orders ironically costing the seller more for shipping separate packages r/maliciouscompliance
Take a picture of his tinkering desk... I'll tell you what he's missing. Full disclosure: I have an almost voyeuristic fascination with seeing my fellow EE's tinkering desks.
Without seeing his setup, here's some random guesses:
-oscilloscope (as noted in other replies)
-Pomona cable racks (if he has lots of cables).
-Geeky T-shirts. My favorite is "Never Trust the Autorouter." Bonus points because I think the designer intensionally screen prints it onto awkward-sized T-shirts. I love them... my wife hates them.
This is the one I use. I only use it for current because i have a Fluke DMM, but that clamp meter has all the other functions of a DMM as well. They just aren't very accurate at low currents, compared to a regular meter.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-LED-4-Digital-Digital-Counter/dp/B00CBA8JF0/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1475804475&sr=8-13&keywords=up%2Fdown+counter
For safety sake you should be checking your builds with a multimeter or a resistance meter before you put it on your mod.
When I got started as a tech years ago I got a predecessor to the JTK-17 kit. Looking back, it was a waste of money. You can easily make up a kit piecemeal by shopping at any hardware or auto parts store. You can get adequate mini tools from the crafts section at Walmart. You may have to buy a few specialty items like precision tweezers and soldering picks but they are cheap.
A temperature controlled grounded (3-wire) 25W or better iron is a good investment. Fancy displays are not needed. You can make one by using a cheap 3-wire non-controlled iron and plug it into a receptacle that is connected to a light dimmer. Need a fume exhaust? Use a dryer hose and a small fan. If you are going to be working with surface-mount (SMT) parts then you'll need a hot air reflow tool (I use Aoyue equipment) but you could use a small heat gun like a Weller 6966C for some tasks.
If you are only going to be experimenting then a protoboard/breadboard, multi-ouput adjustable power supply, and some solid wire for jumpers is all you need. You can get a fancy proto station but it's overkill if you are a beginner.
Not sure what you mean in terms of white elephant, but there's good reviews on Amazon detailing some of the good and bad of the device:
http://smile.amazon.com/RF-Explorer-Handheld-3G-Combo/dp/B00GM72CGU
Not much on the 6g portion though. It does appear they are still working on smoothing out the band a little for accuracy, but it's just fine for the sort of work you'd be using it for.
You can see past updates for pc software and firmware here: http://j3.rf-explorer.com/news
I can't find the articles I was reading but based on what I found - yes, the phone will use the full 27 watts. But there's a caveat with the whole quickcharge thing. I believe this is true for both USB-C PD and QuickCharge 1-4+.
No batteries in any Android or iPhones will quick charge from zero to 100%, which is why the marketing says "5 hrs of charge in 5 mins" or "50% charge in 15 minutes" and yet nothing about how long to full charge. When the battery is nearly drained and not too hot it will quick charge at max voltage for awhile, then somewhere between 30 and 50% it drops the voltage, then after awhile it drops it down some more. By the time you're at 80% it's charging at close to a standard 5v/2A rate.
The full explanation is pages long and gets into all that stuff with heat, electrolytes, anodes, dendrites, C-ratings, etc etc. So quick charging is nice but it's not everything the marketing implies. I'm going to have 2 quick chargers and then make do with a bunch of adapters for the normal ones already scattered all over the place.
edit:
If you want to know for a fact what charger/device/battery combo is doing what and when, you need one of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R7YRM9/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1B17SFT39RCSC&colid=2K0VHPRC4OVAZ
I also purchased a DE-5000 on June 24th, 2017. I've used it for field repair of capacitors on SMPS and it works wonderfully. It has features found in units 5 times it's cost. The original design was by IET but I believe the OEM must be selling it directly now. The price for the IET branded unit was much higher. Dave Jones did a teardown of it but my favorite review is by TRX Bench. Test Signal is 0.63VAC RMS when I measured it. Here's the Manual.
ESR Meter.
It basically tells you if the caps are OK (this is highly simplified). I would recommend anyone repairing old gear get one. It can save you a ton of cash since many people just recap wholesale without checking when many times it is not necessary.
good point; these are scarily well concealed antennas. everyone really should invest in one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-GQ-Multi-Field-Electromagnetic-Radiation/dp/B07JGJ897T/ref=asc_df_B07JGJ897T/
There may be models that measure beyond 10GHz more into the middle of the 5G band, but at least this detects the portion of the band that travels slightly better through walls and wood.
Could probably figure it out for $35 and 15 minutes of your time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HOPRRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kmpIybT3YFPXY
Heres a [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GYSFOM6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=tampfreepcpin-20&linkId=04dc9e0d8b201e73fcd0a87f113ab198) to the meter in question, and [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDABYKoVO4Q) is a review/demonstration from a popular YouTube TV repair channel.
​
If you want something a little nicer, there is also [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NIBEYU/?coliid=IBGOVNQDXLV6V&colid=35YG4HLU6VOCB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) for $130, it has the ability to discharge capacitors as well which is nice, and something you should do to prevent damaging your meter.
I would drill holes in a stiff material to line them up to meet your designs specifications, and use something like a "metal test probe pin," or pogo pin, to align the legs individually. I use this method, and it helps me out quite effectively. Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15091500ux0390-P75-E2-Convex-Diameter/dp/B018YPQ6ZK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465361&sr=8-5&keywords=pogo+pins But anything small and cylindrical will do the job of moving the legs of the pot for your needs without compromising the legs enough to break on you. I hope this helps you; it works for me. Cheers
And Amazon sells geiger counters (dosimeters), so does Walmart, and likely any hypermarket or hardware store anywhere. However, getting that film developed, even if you can find it and even if it's not expired, will be super slow and expensive. It'd have been different in the 1980s, but film cameras and their infrastructure is practically defuct.
Yes if there is any leakage that escapes. There are microwave leakage detectors for sale.