(Part 2) Best hand files & rasps according to redditors

Just adjust your deadbolt hole, it’s normally not hard... if you get a file or chisel, it shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes. If the plate is really far off, just file a bit of the plate off or loosen it and try to move the plate a bit down.

Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728HH8KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ZBvDbR3FZK3E

That's a general purpose handle for anything with a tapered tang. Files use this type of handle for instance. https://www.amazon.com/ToolUSA-Wooden-Handle-Smooth-Finish/dp/B01EVQP7VU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1523804611&sr=8-13&keywords=file+handle

For the sprues you need some actual sprue cutters

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n2UWBbBM7Y938

Nothing much more expensive than those as you really shouldn't run into a need for hard jobs from them

Should also consider some mini files

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MHF415/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b4UWBb9P1BYBP

Something that really let you get at small angles, ideally you do these things before glueing but can be done after.

Doing everything with the exacto is definitely dangerous, and theres not often a need to put your hands in that much danger.

its easy to do this yourself if you want to take a shot at it. it’ll take about 15-20 mins if you use these diamond files

i bought these and do my own detent ramps.

If you place 1 or 2 pieces of 100 grit sandpaper on top of a bamboo sushi mat, you can slide together all 3 of them over the good wood trim and they should keep their shape while sanding over your repaired area.

https://www.amazon.com/JapanBargain-Brand-Rolling-rolling-spreader/dp/B00O8J2L6K/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1474240446&sr=8-11&keywords=bamboo+sushi+mat


These files alone or with sandpaper wrapped around them also will work.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-176-Double-Bastard-10-Inch/dp/B004EBP2T0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240833&sr=1-8&keywords=stanley+flat++file


half round file.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-099-Round-Bastard-10-Inch/dp/B0045PSF3U/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240922&sr=1-3&keywords=stanley+round+file

round file.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-098-Single-Bastard-8-Inch/dp/B0045PQBL8/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240922&sr=1-7&keywords=stanley+round+file

some constructive criticism: The great paint job is offset by the visible seams on the legs. Sand them down as much as possible. Get a cheap set of micro files (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q32XP8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076Q32XP8&pd_rd_wg=iN6qm&pd_rd_r=VZ7SG6V2YP3S2GRE6E1F&pd_rd_w=s3J88) - you can probably get them for $5 if you look around - to refile any grooves/panel seams that are out. Use a little automotive putty (its cheaper than model putty and just as flexible) to cover any really out of whack seams, then you can use a triangular file or a scribe to recreate them.

That will take your modelling to the next level. You already have the painting side covered.

Might I recommend a quality draw bar knife? Maybe you could find a set, as they come in curved versions and such. A straight one similar to this one has done me well when making hand tool handle replacements:

https://www.amazon.com/Timber-Tuff-TMB-10S-Straight-Shave/dp/B002ASAB68/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/140-8087829-7234207?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002ASAB68&pd_rd_r=c7eaf6f6-c0e6-4573-9d08-97f197753b2e&pd_rd_w=VnnsD&pd_rd_wg=zub9Z&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=2CB3N2JPFXM9GZCARSAM&psc=1&refRID=2CB3N2JPFXM9GZCARSAM

Edit: And a wood rasp set:

https://www.amazon.com/KSEIBI-311695-Carbon-Rubber-Quality/dp/B06XC6CTGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Add some sandpaper and you'll be cranking out wood handle replacments.

I added an LSR to my partscaster project and I'll never have a strat without one ever again. With a good two post tremolo and locking tuners, it's as stable as any locking nut system I've ever tried. I don't understand why Fender only offers it on the HSS version of the deluxe.

I don't have the magic ears like some of the folks who'll tell you the metal nut "suks muh tonez". IMHO, unless you're playing 100% clean jazz type stuff, there's no discernable difference. And the trem comes back to tune even after EVH type abuse, but without the setup hassle or tuning change limitations of a Floyd Rose. Added bonus: worry free string gauge changes. The bearings accommodate 008" to .056" without you having to worry about modifying string slots. And if you want to go lighter gauge with traditional nuts, you sometimes have to replace the nut entirely.

For what it's worth, you can always change out the pups. Or just get a Standard and have an LSR put on it.

EDIT: If you attempt to do an LSR mod yourself, I highly recommend getting a proper file (flat square edges, the exact dimensions of the LSR). I learned the hard way. My neck only cost me $125, so I'm not too bummed about it, but my next one will look alot cleaner and have a much tighter fit. Best to clamp a makeshift jig to guide the file, right onto the neck and use calipers and a straight edge to check your depth and angle often.

Oh sweet baby jesus on a mountain top I'd win that game. I've seriously never met anyone who could beat me in a game of Disney/Pixar trivia.

For the boring item?

I'd like to submit two. I have this casting resin and this file. To me they get me very excited because I know what I plan on using them for, but to others, I imagine that they look quite dull.

I have to say that the best thing to do is use something like a dremel diamond sanding wheel or drum to knock off the hard corners and then use sand paper to refine those edges and clean them up. The last thing you might want to do is use some diamond coated needle files to get into those tight places and use a stick or rod with some more sand paper wrapped around it to clean up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWEOn43N0DM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUHXHQ4mfwA

These are the files that I picked up. These are similar to disks used in the first video but I want to pick up these drum files instead.

I'm a noob but no one else has said anything:

Material:

For larger figures you'll probably want some sort of clay as opposed to epoxies like green stuff/ graystuff/ milliput. ( https://www.sculpey.com/super-sculpey/9-super-sculpey-firm ) super sculpy firm is the only polymer clay I've used (oven hardening). Unless anyone with more experience pops by I'd say just get some super sculpy and play around with it. Learn what you like about it or dont like, and branch out from there.

Tools:

https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wax+carving+tools&qid=1573851649&sprefix=wax+car&sr=8-3

I think this is what I have, plenty of shapes and sizes for all your detailing needs. You may also want some files for after you bake the clay:

https://www.amazon.com/10-Piece-Diamond-Needle-Total-Length/dp/B07R3R9461/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=diamond+file&qid=1573851744&sr=8-9

These work well in my experience. As far as your armature question goes I'd definitely recommend arnatures, I'd just go on amazon and search "copper wire", obviously dont get anything insulated. I think I have 24 gauge wire and it's perfect for what I do on the ~25mm scale, so a thicker gauge may be beneficial to you.

Paints:

Make a thread at /r/minipainting it's a more active sub and has some really good painters.


Again, I'm no expert. The tools/ files I can vouch for, and the clay will be a good starting point if no one else pipes up. Good luck!

Also, I like the drawings!


Edit: I should say that if you're on a budget the files and tools are not required, you can get by with whatever you have around the house. Toothpicks, silverware, hobby knives, paperclips, safety pins, etc.

• [Wilkinson] (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VS-100N_Tremolo.html) trem. Drill press would be ideal for the post holes, but you could also just clamp a guide to the body.
  
• LSR nut. Unless you have access to a router jig, I would suggest a rectangular file matching the LSR's dimensions to clean up and deepen the slot you're going to start with a super fine cut saw.
  
• Locking Tuners. Staggered, so no more string trees. Super stable tuning when paired with the Wilkinson and LSR, even after divebombs. Those "F" tuners have a super accurate 18:1 gear ratio. I also like that particular design because they're stabilized with a pair of incorporated pegs that slip into pre-drilled holes, instead of relying on a tiny little screw.
  
  I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
  
  EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.

Don't have a 3D printer? Just attach one of these.

Try this; a triangular tapered steel file/rasp. It's much easier to store with your fencing tools (and travel with - although I don't know why one would).

It's easier than a hacksaw in my opinion and won't damage the threading on the tang like bolt cutters will.

A dremel is probably the easiest option but, the triangular file is so simple that I've never felt the need to use buy a dremel.

4 Way Rasp File - Constantly use it to smooth out rough cuts, get interlocking parts to fit, shape wood handles.

https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Carpentry-Woodworking-Cabinetmaker-Repairment/dp/B0791CB441

Thanks! So would something from this set be good?

A set of needle files like these will help with sanding in hard to reach places: https://www.amazon.com/Fatmingo-LX-0001DT-Titanium-Coated-Diamond-3x140x70mm/dp/B01DC7PPJ8/ I have a cheap set from Aldi. The plastic handles have fallen off a couple though, so maybe look for ones that are a single piece like the ones in the link.

After sanding, I fill any seams or defects with Tamiya basic putty, or for really large areas I use a water based wood filler. After giving that many hours to dry, usually overnight, I sand / file that too.

For painting, Tamiya acrylics. I am not a shill, honest. It has just worked well so far, and you can thin it down for airbrushing if you want to. I do a coat of spray on primer first.

It helps to have decent brushes which will last a while, put down an even coat, and not leave hairs in the paint. They can be a bit expensive, but if you take care of them, it's worth it in the long run.

After all that, I usually do a clear spray overcoat.

Best of luck with your painting!

A lot depends on what you want to spend.
Here's a cheap set on Amazon.
It would be good for someone who's learning.

Then there's this one by Narex that is sort of a middle ground.

Then you have Paul Sellers giving positive reviews to these two:
https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/aurou-rasps-good-on-the-wood-and-good-in-the-hand/

https://paulsellers.com/2016/12/a-rasp-by-liogier/

by Auriou and Liogier. Auriou is over $100 on Amazon https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=auriou

And Liogier are available through Lee Valley for about as much. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42524&p=70660

The more expensive ones have randomized patterns so you won't get stripes in the wood when you use them. Other than that, I don't know why they're worth so much more. I'm a noob myself.

Here are some links in case you're interested:

Stanley 10" bastard with one safe edge

Nicholson file set I bought

File card and brush

Round file I bought

It took a LONG time. Took me almost 1.5 hours. Here are the files I bought.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004A768OG

non-mobile link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A768OG

TEKTON 6679 8-Inch Half Round File https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT78S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5imQyb94JETEG

$10 diamond file for main shaping. This is kinda fine, you can find stuff closer to and under 100 grit. Hammer off the handle if you want to use it as a bench stone. This way you can really crank up the pressure, pressing down onto the file supported by a table or other surface.

Once you have fixed up your edges with the diamond file you can clean them up with any finishing stone. $55, 11 inch, monstrous, fine diamond plate

But really; a cheap, very hard, coarse stone from the hardware store will probably tolerate more pressure (cut faster) for the rough work you wanna do, but the diamond file should work well.