(Part 2) Best home automation hubs & controllers according to redditors

The true cost of this thing includes paying for a plumber to install it, unless you can turn off the water mains from the city/county and are comfortable cutting open the main supply pipe to your house. There are z-wave alternatives that are substantially cheaper and do not require a plumber - for example this one. This controller (and there are others very similar to it) mount on a levered ball valve on the outside and have a z-wave controlled motor that moves the lever between open and closed positions. When paired with Aeotec flood sensors, you can assemble a system that's much cheaper than the Leaksmart at the discounted price and does the same job.

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

Vera + Schlage

Close as you're going to get. Everything but bluetooth unlock.

You don't even need that. You can get a Z-wave button pusher, setup an automation for it using a suitable home hub, and then simply have the Echo Dot activate the button when it hears "Computer -- tea, Earl Grey, hot".

Not cheap but lots of uses beyond this. Also it does work with rocker switches:

MicroBot Push (2nd Generation) - Wireless Robotic Button Pusher for Smart Home Automation (Platinum White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N0lFzbR507G5C

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGJZM8/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=veraedge_amzn_excl

Until now, all Echos would use the internet to control smart home devices. So, if you have an original Echo and you want to control a Philips Hue smart light bulb, you need a bridge. The bridge has a radio that can communicate with the bulbs as well as wifi to connect them to the internet.

The Echo Plus has a radio built in that allows it to directly control some smart home devices that aren't connected to the internet. However, it only supports a single standard (Zigbee), so not all devices are compatible. Still, it should be a good starting place for people looking to dip their toes into home automation.

Three hardware solutions that I know of:

1. Flic smart button.
   
   (This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
   
   
2. Satechi Bluetooth Button Series (Media Button.)
   
   (This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
   
   
3. Lutron Pico Remote Control for Audio (requires Caseta Smart Bridge, which I already had installed, for my Lutron "smart" light switches.) More info here.
   

hey. interesting dilemma. I've had a search for echo button equivalents and have found nothing.

one simple analog alternative would be to get a few simple voice recorder and pre-record commands (if using a smartphone is out of the question).

I also found someone who managed to connect Amazon's AWS dash buttons to google home, albeit in a different way. if you're code-savvy this might be an option to explore. https://redsilico.com/blog/make-google-home-talk-using-amazon-dash-button

as for products, I only know of flic and the smartthings buttons, but I'm not sure they would work. flic is expensive and apparently unreliable without the 150$ hub though.

ISY994iZw/Pro is a bit pricey, but is a robust programmable hub that can integrate with IFTTT and other web-based tools. They also have an upgradeable base model.

For anything wired into the wall (lights, outlets), I go with Insteon. Also have a few battery-powered sensors which control Insteon scenes (e.g. for instant lighting in the guest bathroom).

Most of my sensors and plug-in modules are Z-Wave. I like the Z-wave plug modules because the ones I use have load reporting (how many watts is the plugged-in device drawing?), so for example ISY-994 can detect washing machine end-of-cycle.

Easiest way would be to power the LEDs with a 12-24v power supply and connect to the mains with an Alexa socket.

I know you’ve specifically said it needs to be battery powered, but imo, it’d be easier to get power to the shelf (however difficult that may be) than having to custom fabricate something from an ESP8266 and MQTT, which with the LEDs will last maybe a few days between charges if you’re lucky.

I have always wanted an excuse to play around with the ESP8266s, so maybe it’d be a good learning experience if nothing else?

The other closest thing I can think of is the Sonoff WiFi switch, but it needs min 100v input by the looks of it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06WWNBD3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T72oDbDW2421J. It’d be perfect for this application, but I’m pretty sure it’s not designed for battery power. I could be wrong tho.

For me, the thought of having to keep the thing charged would be enough to start rerouting power cables - but I am pretty lazy :D

Good luck with your project tho dude, sounds cool!

the pebble core sounds great https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/597507018/pebble-2-time-2-and-core-an-entirely-new-3g-ultra?anchor_link=core_for_hackers#h:core-for-hackers
just need some sort of Bluetooth or wired speakers with a mic to create an always-on dot

I hope to use the buttons like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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The guy below had already posted one so I didn't think I needed to

My favorite in terms of quality and ease of use are the Philips Hue strips. They were on sale for $50 last year.

But I bought this wifi led controller to test with home assistant since I am going to install about 10M of LED strips and need something cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/LED-Controller-WIFI-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B0746654D5


i actually bought it from ebay for a little under $10. And you can use any basic RGB led strips. I got 5M strips for about $10 on ebay. The amazon description says the controller only works for Alexa, but this video shows someone setting it up with Google Home: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-O6jtPJN7Q

So far the only thing that kind of bothers me is the high pitched whine it makes. If I send an On or Off command the controller makes a whine for 1 second and then becomes quiet. It will make a constant whine if I set the brightness to anything less that 100%, the loudness depends on the color. Also the 12v power supply (which was not included) makes a constant whine when its plugged in, but that could be an issue with my power supply. These issues won't be that big of a deal for me since I will be hiding the controller in the laundry room and have the strips in the hallway

No need to be fancy. Just pick out a prebuilt wireless kit on ebay like the following:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-4-Channel-Wireless-Remote-Control-Receiver-Momentary-Switch-2-x-Transmitter-/171306985066

Just plug the power into the module and the lights into the module and you're in business. You can purchase multiple receivers, most can be setup to receive from one transmitter.

If you want a delay, have the wireless module trigger a digital delay timer (cheap one on amazon):

http://www.amazon.com/Estone-Automation-Control-Digital-Display/dp/B00GIBTQMI/

If you want to make the lights blink, use an off the shelf LED controller:

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Remote-Controller-Strip-Lights/dp/B00IUGQVKY/

Less than $30 per ghost, not including the LED/EL strips, or batteries. No programming required.

Try this https://www.amazon.com/Blind-Engine-Motorized-Automation-Compatible/dp/B07D58YYZ1 once they add HomeKit

If you have a z-wave hub, the Hank Z-Wave button is awesome. Super long battery life, program it to do whatever you want, reasonably compact. https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764

Had been poking around myself and a couple of these reviews were a little discouraging: https://www.amazon.ca/Rainforest-EAGLE-200-Energy-Monitoring-Gateway/dp/B07681Y7ZV

If you have Amazon Prime I guess you could try it and return it if it doesn't pan out.

Report back with what you decide on and discover!

It should be... I have been using them for at least a couple of years now with no problem..., except their hub crapped out on me and i had to create a new account, but other than their shitty hub, their switches have been rock solid. I recommend getting a ISY universal device instead and pair it with home-assistant

If you get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNS1B7V/?coliid=IOCO66VDBWJFL&colid=3FGCM4IN63O2A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it it would be a rock solid setup

Maybe this could work somehow? https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B071V7Y864?th=1

IFTTT integration so you could use with ST

There are smart controls for window A/C units with IR remote control

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller Smart Home Infrared Universal Remote Blaster,One for All Control AC TV DVD CD AUD SAT etc,Compatible with Alexa and Google Home,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH1X7PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SV2pDbJY76JJR


atomi Smart Air Conditioner Adaptor, WiFi Thermometer Monitoring, Provides Smart AC Control, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, iOS and Android, Control temperature from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ6BHMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MX2pDbG6043GY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFKNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6S2pDbBSTBKR9

Sensibo Sky (International) - Air Conditioner Controller, Wi-Fi, Compatible with iOS and Android, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU2YSR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gV2pDb1JNWVF2


Ambi Climate 2 Smart Air Conditioner Controller - AI Powered, WiFi Enabled | Works with Alexa, Siri, Google Home, IFTTT, iOS, Android | Auto Temp Control for Window Units, Mini Split & Portable Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hX2pDbWDXSG28


But using the nest sensor to control it, that's not possible. You could use another nest in the room and have it actuate a relay that tells a arduino or raspberry pi to send an IR signal to the A/C.....you can do all kind if things

Yep! Broadlink RM Pro $38
https://smile.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510083258&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=broadlink%2Brm%2Bpro%2B2017&th=1

I found Axis Gear on sale for $165. it's like 80 bucks off

When I bvought mine on sale last year it was $200

https://www.amazon.com/AXIS-Gear-Automation-Powered-Bluetooth/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2L36CTAML3G9U&keywords=axis+gear&qid=1563211747&s=gateway&sprefix=axis+gear%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2

Frankly, If I was you, I would connect a Z-wave water shutoff just AFTER your main manual shutoff. These things are a bit too pricey to have everywhere, nor should you need to use one everywhere.

Some Amazon links

$429 or [$129] (https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wave-Water-Valve-inch/dp/B006KU10ZI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473890371&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+water+shutoff) or $59

Looking closer, It appears that the 59 dollar one can be retrofit over a quarter-turn valve, which actually is pretty darn cheap and amazing, though I wouldn't trust it to be "sturdy" enough for permanent use or anything.

I would additionally attach one to your main natural gas / heating oil line, Again a second shutoff directly after your main manual shutoff. If ever your water heater that springs a leak, you're gonna wanna shut that off as well due to dangers of heating an empty heater. If electric, that means a relay or something to shut that off.

I honestly cannot think of automation that would be so necessary other than a flood sensor. Some of these ads you see on TV where the kids left the sink running are frankly ridiculous and unnecessary.

Edit: Wow, I only read the headline, thought you were only looking for plumbing advice. Light switches are a must, everything else is a good idea, but remember if you don't have an idea for it right now, its kind of wasted money. There are all kinds of things that aren't frankly necessary. (As in a outlet that can be toggled via zwave. If its gonna be on all the time, there's no need for it.)

There's a system called Vera that works decently well. There's an app, several devices by several manufacturers, etc. It does push notifications for my home's door/window sensors and motion alarms. There seem to be doorbells that interface with vera, which seemingly would do the trick.

On that note, this seems to fit what you're after, you just need to have it connect to a z-wave or other home automation controller like one of Vera's. Hope that helps.

Does it have a remote? https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Controller-Hand-free-Compatible-Controlled/dp/B07L9VV9N8/ Might work then.

I've got 4 of these Hank Z-Wave Plus One Button Scene Controllers. Love 'em. Rechargeable, goes 1 year between charges.

https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764

Is there a reason you'd prefer that controller over this?

I ran across these the other day. A bit pricey though

AXIS Gear - Smart Blinds For Your Smart Home - DIY Home Automation - Powered by ZigBee + Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXi2DbYCWEGFG

Amazon has the same pricing - 5% if you use the store card.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P42K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_tJpzwb0ZW10WQ

Too perfect??? Read the reviews on different shops... A lot of people are complaining that it is not pairing, bad batteries, no support, etc.
On amazon 38% gave it a 1-star, 12% gave it a 2 star. So 50% is unhappy with it... http://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K

You need a hub too. For Zwave, you can use a vera unit but there are others. https://www.amazon.com/Vera-Control-VeraEdge-American-Application/dp/B00PFGJZM8

I spent a while yesterday looking at smart buttons and think I've settled on getting a couple of those. I'll place one in the basement by the door and the other I'll either just give to my FIL to put in his car or fasten it to something by the garage door. I'm going to program the lights to automatically turn off after 10 minutes or so as well.

This is the button that I'll probably end up getting, unless I can find something else with good reviews and cheaper. (I'm not sure how I feel about ordering a Xiaomi.)

I recently bought and installed this relatively cheap zwave water valve controller. It's been installed for less than a week, but seems pretty solid. I've been considering using another one to automate a chicken coop door, and I think it would be effective to open and close a pet crate, though you'll have to figure out some modifications to the crate or build a linkage system yourself - could be a fun project!

Hi,

If you want a primer on current security camera technology, my guide to IP cameras may help. As you will find though, I am not one who recommends storing everything on the cloud.

For a doorbell, if you want a ready to use device, consider the Ring Doorbell. If you are happy to go the DIY home automation route, you can use a standard bell linked to a home automation gateway device which can then pretty much trigger any event/action you need. Eg. Play a sound through your home theatre or SONOS, take a picture from the security camera and email to your phone, send a push notification to your phone, automatically play a recorded greeting etc. An example of a gateway device is the Vera Plus.

In fact this is going to be my next project!

Daniel

There is a little device that pushes a button based on Bluetooth. https://microbot.is/push/ I use it to warm up my Breville Barista Express in the morning. It works pretty well...

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Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2

The Sonoff Basic will do exactly what you want to do. https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Wireless-Modified-Low-cost-Compatible/dp/B06WWNBD3Y/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3KR419V09SRSA&keywords=sonoff+basic&qid=1555725722&s=gateway&sprefix=sonoff%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-8

If anyone was curious, I thought of a good solution for my problem. I got one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y63VZT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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and set it to bind to space with one click and 1 with two clicks, it works pretty well and is a tiny remote.

They did fit under my cabinets without showing, but I do have a small molding around the bottom of my upper cabinets. I see some people on Amazon complained about them breaking, but I've had these installed for about a year without breakage yet. I also soldered my connections, so I don't know if that helped at all.

I also put some additional lights on the top of my cabinets with that power supply, but I used the an RGB LED strip and this doohickey: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746654D5/ref=asc_df_B0746654D55377971

The sole purpose of those lights is so that I can voice activate a "red alert" in my kitchen. I know its dumb, but it still cracks me up. I'm kinda simple.

I actually use Yale locks(https://amzn.com/B00HS1O77G). If you use the one with a key(https://amzn.com/B005NLKRAO), They are re-keyable to match either Schlage or Kwikset locks to match the rest of the house. Also, you can add either Z-Wave or ZigBee, also to better fit the rest of your house. The Geo-fencing is a feature that comes with the Vera Plus and its app.(https://amzn.com/B01BX9P89Y)

I got the idea from all those cheap Chinese latching timer relays I've found. It's simple, and accepts nearly any DC voltage, but can relay any type of voltage (AC/DC).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GIBTQMI/

I've noticed some other models using transistors, but anything goes it seems. I enjoy the photo couplers especially if the 2 systems are using their own sources, like my truck doesn't share power with my raspberry pi or ATTINY system, and it works well.

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

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You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


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For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

a Combo device sounds awesome, and i hope i can find something like that. What about a Hubitate Elevation.

Yes my house has Neutral Wires.

Good to know on the Nest, as i had seriously thought about sensors, smoke alarms, and door bell from them. Looks like i will be staying away.

https://www.amazon.com/Blind-Engine-Motorized-Automation-Compatible/dp/B07D58YYZ1/ref=sr_1_28

There are a bunch of variations on these available on amazon and ebay, that connect to your existing blinds chain and "smartify" them =)

they aren't crazy expensive, but keep an eye on the reviews for whichever model you get if you go that route.

It actually goes by different names on Amazon (and I'm sure on ebay/AliExpress, too.)

The ones I found on Amazon go by these names:

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller

YTF Wifi Smart IR Control Hub

Larkkey Smart IR Universal Control

However, it is my understanding they are all the same re-branded Tuya IR controller (blaster.)

Is this what you have?
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-458489-Hue-Bridge-Frustration/dp/B014H2P42K

And if so what kind of lights? Ideally I'd love to wire-up most of our lights to it including the ones with wall switches. Also how do you interact with the lights via Echo? Can you say "Turn on Living Room Light" for example? Or can it work with zwave outlets?

I’m in the same situation as you but I have 8 minis throughout the house.

I’m leaning towards IR blaster like this one with temp controls in each room.

I’m curious, why are you avoiding the cloud connections?

Like an idiot, I wrote everything out below before I fully read your post. I'm not sure if a 50% would be possible with the below set up but it would make the shades 'smart'.

This should help you out. I'm in the process of testing everything out for my basement (working on finishing it now). I already received the Broadlink RM Pro and got it working with some remote control outlets. When I receive the shade motor, I'll let you know if I have any difficulties. Also, this video should help with some difficulties people have with the Broadlink.

Thanks for the excellent info.
It looks like this box is doing what you are talking about. https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Controller-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00O3UBOMG
I'd love to have my water heater in Homekit so when I'm gone for days at a time, the water heater would be off.

LED parts are SO EASY to make, get a decent PCB and a RGB controller and you have so many possibilities.

LED boards: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=RGB+aluminum+PCB

LED Controller: https://www.amazon.com/LED-Controller-WIFI-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B0746654D5/

Most 2.1mm power supplies will work with this, just need more power for more LEDs :)

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Gas/Water Valve Control ZAC03 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKCPEHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ToLqxbYBT7A47

I found this if anyone else is looking for something like this.

I've been trying to find something like this for my apartment, but the one in the link doesn't quite fit my needs. Ideally I would find a similar product (smart blinds motor that can be fed a beaded metal chain) that would (1) be controllable via Amazon Echo, (2) work faster/more quietly, and (3) be cheaper. Echo compatibility is a must - the rest would just be gravy.

This solution doesn't require ANY modification of the wall outlet. Basically, you'd have a power cable from the relay to the wall (220V) and a power cable from the relay to the WiFi plug (110V) that's plugged into another existing wall outlet. The AC would plug into the relay.

Edited: Here's a ready-made product that does what you need. WeMo switch to control a 240V load. Unfortunately, a little pricey. It would cost about $80 to put it together yourself: relay+WeMo plug+project box

Would this help you at all? Im just imagining you sitting in your XJ every day for 5 minutes. At least with this you can wire a switch to arm it and another to activate it as you leave and set the timer before hand.

http://www.amazon.com/Estone%C2%AE-Automation-Control-Digital-Display/dp/B00GIBTQMI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414464389&sr=1-2&keywords=timer+delay+relay+trigger+12v#productDetails

So I don't necessarily have an answer for you in terms of the lock type, but you can control RF devices with your phone or voice using something like the Broadlink RM Pro

I second the Intermatic 3750 that was recommended earlier. Here's another option that hasn't been mentioned earlier - the ELK 9200 relay (Amazon Link). The ELK 9200 can control (simultaneously, not independently) two 240V appliances. Basically, all it is just a 60A, 240V relay with a 120V coil. The coil voltage can be controlled by the home automation system of your choice - ZigBee, Z-wave, Insteon, WiFi etc. I use two of these with Leviton z-wave outlets.

If a convenient 120V outlet is not available near your 240V pool appliances, then you could consider the Electric Water Heater Controller Kit (240V) (Amazon Link). Although it is shown with a Belkin switch, the manufacturer will make one with the switch of your choice - including a Z-wave or ZigBee switch.

I went from a Vera3 to a Homeseer SEL Pro. (An SEL is essentially a $$250-$300 nuc running Linux with the HS3 software preinstalled)

HomeSeer is an incredibly easy to set up system. The HS3 event system is menu driven and very capable. HS is about the only pre-built system with support for more 3rd party devices than Vera. I was able to recreate a lot of Vera scenes (with quite a bit of Luup script and Pleg) using the HS menu system in just a few hours.

An HS Zee2 ($200) is only a little more money than a VeraPlus ($150), but it has 4x the ram and close to 8x the CPU power. (Veras are essentially router hardware running OpenWRT with extra radios. A Pi3 has more cpu cores that are clocked faster, more ram, etc)

Having said that, Amazon has the Plus on sale for $110 right now, which is a really good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Vera-Control-VeraPlus-US-Smart-Controller/dp/B01BX9P89Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536373058&sr=8-1&keywords=veraplus

I've got the same problem in my main room. I hooked up a Flic to a couple LifX bulbs and it works great. (Have the Flic connected to my previous smartphone that I leave plugged in the closet on wifi)

https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K

https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Required/dp/B01KY02MS8/ref=sr_1_1?s=boost&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1486764495&sr=1-1&keywords=lifx

Hey,

Thanks for the reply.

I've been looking at getting broadlink remote for a while:
https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=broadlink+rm+pro&qid=1567927324&s=gateway&sprefix=broadlink&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3SP0XK4HMPKQQ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2TFBJUFpHRFpTTlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMDM1NzhTNUVNSTNTVFhFM1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDI5NDY4MDNBUUFLRTI2NkhYOVgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Can't find anything much better for price but open to suggestions.

Just not sure how to include switcher in a sequence. I think it would be weak link in the system.

I wish there were smarter switchers out there.