(Part 3) Best household stains according to redditors
We found 166 Reddit comments discussing the best household stains. We ranked the 87 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Dye, dye, dye. Obviously purple. You can control the color based on how much you put in the solution. I've used this brand below and you can use the powder in water or mineral spirits depending on your finish. I would suggest spray on poly since wipe on can easily pull off color even if it's dry.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008XNHKOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465947902&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=purple+wood+dye&dpPl=1&dpID=51L3dL33jFL&ref=plSrch
I stained the cabinets in both bathrooms and used milk paint for the kitchen. They were original the ugly yellow oak, stained/painted a dark brown/espresso. The stain has definitely held up a lot better than the milk paint. It's a gel stain with a bunch of different colors:
https://smile.amazon.com/General-Finishes-JP-Stain-pint/dp/B0035YI8SY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525105472&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=general+finishes+java+gel+stain&psc=1&smid=AAJLPU4ZU1A5U
Old growth cedar is very resistant to rot.
Newer cedar may or may not be as resistant.
I hedge with on my natural cedar deck/fences with http://www.amazon.com/Vahalla-Wood-Preservatives-1-Gallon-Treatment/dp/B008Y0N6U4
This is not a stain in the classical sense, it's all natural mixture you spray on with a garden sprayer that soaks in and supposedly (apparently) protects the wood from rot. So far, nothing I've used that on has had any sort of rotting, despite being otherwise untreated and in very wet conditions (including bare soil contact).
This advice assumes that the grey color comes from oxidation (usually sun/weather exposure like a grey-ed fence/deck). You can certainly sand this coloration away (and there is some merit to that as you will end up with a nice smooth finish) however, if the oxidation is deep, you will be sanding away a fair amount of material and it will require a lot of effort. Enter oxalic acid. Oxcalic acid is used to "bleach" wood, and is the main ingredient in wood brighteners. Depending on where you live, most any hardware store will sell a similar product over in the paint section. Often labeled as deck/fence restorer. For instance, Home Depot sells Behr All-In-One wood cleaner. The stuff is awesome, just clean/debride the wood with a stiff bristled scrub brush, wet the surface, brush on the cleaner (can dilute 1:1 with water), let sit 10-15 min (keeping wet), and rinse. It will take the grey color from the wood like magic. After that you can sand the surface smooth (if desired) with much less effort than trying to sand through the discoloration. If there is any finish left on the wood, you will want to remove that as well before refinishing.
Also, not to contradict /u/dragon34, but the advice he got about not sanding between coats of poly isn't particularly great. Yes, re-coating quickly will allow the second coat to adhere without sanding, but it will not result in the best finish. At the very least, you should denib the previous coat before moving to the next. Otherwise you will end up with bumps from dust, insect, uneven application, etc. being trapped between the layers. I usually just buff the previous coat with some 0000 steel wool until burnished smooth, and then go over it with a microfiber cloth that has been dampened with denature alcohol. If you are putting in all the effort to restore, prep, and refinish the piece, it is worth spending an extra 10 minutes prepping properly between coats.
they make tile chip repair kits...
https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Flor-FL49103CF-Mix-2-Match-Stone-Repair/dp/B00DRZTUXI
I would think matching the color would be tough...trial and error. it'd still be better than that white spot
I actually have that color (or at least it’s a purple about that color) in TransTint aniline dye. You can get it cheaper than Amazon, but here is the link so you can see what I’m talking about TransTint Dyes, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MANUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y2MxDb34ZA94E
don’t worry, the color sample on the Amazon website is off by a lot, I’ve used it and the color comes out close to the guitar in your photo
There are some stains that are non-penetrating that will work. These stains essentially sit on the top and become darker with each coat. The spots with filler may be slightly lighter, but will be less noticeable with each coat.
I like the General Finishes product
Ah I see, didn't consider a printer going in there. Looks great though, can't wait to see what it looks like with finish on it!
If I can make a suggestion on finish, if you want to preserve the figure in the grain, dye it instead of staining it. Stain sits on top of the wood (with some penetration), but dye soaks INTO the grain, and it soaks differently depending on the density of the grain. It'll really make the figure stand out instead of masking it. I've used this stuff and have been really pleased with the results. It's water based, so you can thin it out with just tap water, and you can mix and match colors to get the hue you want.
From creeping on his(?) posts, looks like he did about 8 coats of "Kona" stain, then 1-2 coats of black on top of that, then cleared it, thennnnn scuffed it up with steel wool. Best Boyd's stock I've seen yet.
Edit: My local Home Depot doesn't carry it. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-260154-Ultimate-Stain-Quart/dp/B00714LKAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414001601&sr=8-1&keywords=kona+wood+stain
That is in pretty good shape, I would not sand it plus it would not sand well anyway with all the natural oil in it.
I have a cumaru deck which has similar properties to your deck. I powerwash it every year and apply an oil based stain every other year. The brand I use is Penofinipe oil is a good brand of oil it use. I used penofin because it was available at my local lumber yard.
The key with stain is to apply it to 4-5 boards at a time, let it sit for 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Repeat for the next 5 boards. Avoid water based stains as they do not work well with natural hardwoods due to the oil content in the natural hardwood.
Googled the gel stain and the finish is precisely what I'm looking for, thank you for the tip. Only problem now is I can only find water and oilbased stains (like 2-3 brands) where I live..! No gel stains. I should have mentioned that live in Sweden and the market for stains seem to be very small which I hade no idea about. Can I substitute the gel stain with this:
http://www.amazon.com/12106-Onyx-Wood-Stain-Black/dp/B007UTJPXM?ie=UTF8&keywords=zar%20wood%20stain&qid=1465329825&ref_=sr_1_22&s=hi&sr=1-22
This is what I could find in my local hardware store.
You can use a kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Therma-Tru-Kit-Mahogany-Fiberglass/dp/B00F1ZR1VA
Or buy the individual components and stain away:
https://www.thermatrubenchmark.com/how-to-guides/how-to-stain-your-door/
You can order it online. Just sign up for a hardwood flooring reselling site and put in a fake company name. They'll sell it to you. Or, you can buy it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bona-Traffic-HD-Commercial-Semi-Gloss/dp/B00B3A87WO
So, I have pressure treated woods that I have used to create my retaining wall.
I used a sealant to seal but it also had red paint that now looks horrible (should've checked the box properly).
I wanted my wood to have similar stain as the wood in the picture. My guess is that the wood in the pics are not pressure treated oak like mine so mine won't have exact same stain, but I wanted to get as close as possible to this look.
Any help? I could get the stain from Home Depot, Amazon or Benzaim Moore shop.
Something like this (and I'm correct in choosing the oil one right?)
http://www.amazon.com/J-E-Mosers-Finishes-Soluble-Aniline/dp/B0086612XY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395414114&sr=1-2&keywords=oil+soluble+aniline+dye
EDIT:hold on, redo, I'm assuming this would be a better choice
http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/dyes/aniline-dyes-alcohol-soluble
This but oil based:
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-30414-12-Ounce-Water-WoodSheen/dp/B002KNXRQ4?th=1
Turned out to be exactly what color I wanted
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-30804-Express-Wiping-Mahogany/dp/B004CFEBWM?th=1&psc=1
I've been woodworking for about a year and a half. I use hand tools except for my planer. I've built a lot of shop projects, including a Roubo style bench, but this is my first non-shop project.
For the dye, I used solar lux. Supposedly it's light fast, so it won't fade in the sun. We'll see. Getting the stripe down the middle to be crisp was tough, but it turned out really well.
Why 15 layers? Just to get more build or more color? If more color use stronger dye solution? I sprayed this tabletop with a single coat of transtint to get this color then topcoated it with a single coat of shellac to seal the dye then arm-r-seal. That seems pretty intense red and I only used about 1/4 bottle of transtint to make a pint or so of dye solution (and had extra left over after doing ~40 sq ft of area. BTW the color is Transtint Red Mahogany.