Best household paint & primers according to redditors

We found 1,160 Reddit comments discussing the best household paint & primers. We ranked the 437 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Interior & exterior house paint
Primer paint
Spray paint
Household stains
Household poly & varnishes
Household paint solvents

Top Reddit comments about Household Paint & Primer:

u/dallinj · 65 pointsr/NintendoSwitch


After seeing the countless posts of other custom shell swaps, I figured I had waited long enough to do my own, but with a little modern twist, in this case making them look similar to the pro-controller. I think it turned out really well!

Parts/Items List

  • Transparent Shells w/ D-Pad
  • Tool Kit
  • Black Spray Dye
  • Matte Spray Finish


    The first thing I did, was obviously taking apart my original (Neon Red) shells to be able to switch the parts into my painted shells. I decided against using the transparent battery trays, and instead opted to spray paint them matte black, as it darkens the whole joy-con overall, and it was a very simple paint job. For disassembly and reassembly I used Spawn Wave's Video as it was the clearest, but most concise video I'd found, but any tutorial works fine. The tool kit I linked works wonders, and has everything you'll need, from tri-point screwdrivers to little pliers. I then took all the disassembled pieces and set them into separate containers so I wouldn't lose anything.


    To start off, I washed all the shell pieces with some water, and let them dry, just so no dust particles got trapped. I made a little spray painting "rig" with some cardboard pieces so I could set the front shells on top and ensure I sprayed all sides evenly. I started with 6-7 fairly light coats of the Tamiya Smoke Dye, and made sure it was the right darkness, before letting it dry a few hours. I waited 3 minutes between coats, making sure I sprayed evenly on all pieces. Only issue I did have with the smoke was that it run out of paint right after the final coat, so be aware of that.

    Following the dye drying, I sprayed two coats of the Krylon Matte paint, before again letting it dry for a couple hours. I wish I had gone a little lighter on the matte, as a little more transparency would've been awesome, but I honestly can't complain with the final product.


    After they had completely dried, I slipped the pieces back into the shells (once again following Spawn Wave's video) and sealed it up. Overall it wasn't too difficult a process, but if there are any tips I'd suggest, I would recommend making sure to apply a fair bit of pressure when unscrewing and screwing on the screws. I was close to stripping the phillips head screws on the analog sticks, but luckily I avoided that entirely. One issue I did have with the shells, was that the plus button isn't quite as clicky as before, but it really is only a minor issue. All-in-all I'm very happy with them, and they've got a great matte texture that feels good on the hands. If you've got any questions or clarifications, let me know and I'll help you out!

u/Oppressor · 41 pointsr/gaming

Uh, I just used some acrylic paint my wife had in her craft supplies. Didn't seem like anything fancy. And I did clear coat it!

Edit: The bottles looked like this!

Edit2: Missed the part where you asked about clear coating, but this is what I used to clear coat.

u/[deleted] · 39 pointsr/programming

$200 bucks for 50 sqft?

Go down to lowes and buy some Rust-Oleum dry erase paint for $24 bucks instead. You won't get the hipster packaging, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper.

Amazon says that it covers 49 sqft, so you save 180 bucks.

u/Stone-Bear · 37 pointsr/DIY

This is really awesome. I still have parts of this helmet printed but never finished it (its on the list). I'm a prop maker by trade and I just wanted to give you some tips for further smoothing if you're ever so inclined to do more :D

Several layers of filler primer gets rid of the minor print lines on all surfaces. 3-4 layers with sanding in between gets rid of all of them and they come out crazy smooth. Bondo Spot putty is also amazing for anything else the filler primer may have missed.

Another material I've seen used for smooth is wall spackle! Its a bit easier to manage than Bondo/filler primer and a bit easier to sand. note: It does not like to be wet sanded lol.

For example, here's a mask I finished. printed & finished

here's a mask in different phases of finishing

If any one else is interested, I have a full tutorial on this process here

u/IAmYourDaydreamer · 25 pointsr/Showerthoughts

You can buy mirror spray though- that turns glass into mirrors, so you sort of can.

u/ali_rose · 18 pointsr/learnart

I love charcoal but it takes a bit to understand how to utilize it correctly. In my opinion though, it goes so much faster than full pencil drawings and it gets much more impressive and dramatic results.

One of the easiest techniques is to actually work 'backwards' from a traditional graphite drawing. You may want to pick up some 'Vine' / 'Willow' Charcoal sticks These are very soft but lightly toned pieces of charcoal. You'll scrub one over the entire piece of paper and use a tissue to smooth it resulting in a gray toned background. Here you won't be starting with a pure white sheet of paper.

From there you'll make a gesture drawing of what you'd like to draw with a lighter charcoal pencil (2H or the gray pencil farthest to the right in your drawing tin). After, you'll go in with an eraser and erase out the light areas to almost bring back the white of your paper (those pink rectangle erasers you use/used in school are great for this). After that, you can actually dive in and start shading. You'll start by shading with your lightest charcoal pencils and work your way up to the darkest shades (in your tin work right to left with the gray pencils) Your lightest highlights you can achieve by using a piece of chalk or a white charcoal pencil These will be the absolute lightest parts of the image, so don't go overboard.

From there, just darken and lighten areas until you're satisfied with it.

Some stuff you might want to pick up =
Workable Fixatif - This will help keep the mess to a minimum. You'd spray this after every day that you work on the drawing. (But don't spray it until you've erased out all of the highlight areas!) As the name suggests, it is workable so you can still erase out some of it, but it won't be as forgiving.
Final Fixative
This is the stuff you spray on the final drawing. You're done and you don't want to change anything anymore. You can also use really cheap aerosol hairspray if you want to save money or you don't need a UV-safe protective coating. I've used this in the past - Horrible Hairspray-Great cheap Fixative

Those brown colored pencils and sticks are Conte crayon. They're very similar to charcoal but are made from clay usually. (These are awesome for doing gesture drawings or faces!) I work with these more similar to a graphite pencil rather than charcoal. You can also buy brown toned paper/newsprint to use with them.

Also, I want to add, be careful when you sharpen any of these pencils. Go slowly and be soft with them or you can crack the charcoal inside and it'll just fall out. I've found these work better than other pencil sharpeners when it comes to charcoal. You can also simply scrape the pencil end with an Exacto blade - I've never broken a pencil doing it this way.

Fixative info & Tutorial

Very Basic Charcoal Tutorial - this gives a visual of what I was talking about. The guy does everything in a different order than I usually do, but whatever you find works easiest, just go with that.

More Tutorials Several other tutorials to help you get started.

Sorry for the wall of text, but I hope you enjoy the new media! Give your mom a big hug! Charcoal is great!

u/The_Patriarchy · 18 pointsr/MensRights

If you print them on crack n peel, they won't be able to tear them down so easily.

You can get it at any office supply shop. It's basically a big sheet of sticker paper. The downside is that it runs when it gets wet. If you're concerned about that, you could probably spray on a coat of clear varnish after you print them.

The varnish can be found at any arts and crafts store.


The downside to all of this is that it costs more (in effort and cash) per flyer.

u/ablesisters · 17 pointsr/BeautyGuruChatter

Art major here, fixative is a really good idea!

That fixative you linked is resin based, and the shadow would still be a little workable/moveable under that fixative. An acrylic-based fixative spray would work better as a final sealant as it would create an almost plastic-like protective finish on the page: is one example.

No matter what fixative you're using, it's important to do a patch test first because fixatives can darken/alter the color of certain mediums. It's also important to work in light layers in a very well ventilated area!

u/MrMushroomMan · 16 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Two-way mirrors are pretty cheap, you can even make some okay ones yourself with some mirror spray paint.

u/Zacmon · 14 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey, just saying, if you take off the backplate and coat the face with this artist's spray then it will protect the signatures. I use this stuff all the time and it shouldn't take much to seal a sharpie mark on plastic. You should be able to keep a generally matte finish, while also letting you use it normally.

I would do this whether you want to showcase it or not, since it's also UV resistant and will keep it from discoloring/fading. Just make sure you mask the grills/vents and coat the kickstand separately. You should only need 1 or 2 very light coats. We're talking 30 minutes tops with an overnight dry.

u/Javbw · 13 pointsr/pics

There is a name for the specific ype of spray just to protect "smudgeable" work - "Fixatif"

Here's one from Krylon.

People use it when they "finish" a section and want to protect it as they move onto another - but are still able to go back and add additions on top if desired. Its basically invisible.

I imagine once your are totally finished, a flat clear laquer would seal everything and prevent it from ever being changed again.

Keep up the great art!

u/brahzoo · 10 pointsr/snowboarding

I did it on my old snowboard that was not gonna last the whole season.
-Hand Sanded the board with 120-160 grit paper. (my board has originally more of a matte paint on it then the typical glossy coats).
-I cleaned the top of the board throughly.
-I taped with painters tape all around the sides, I cut Q-Tips in half and put them in the binding screw holes to make sure that paint didn't go in.
-Spray painted with black matte with 2 layers.
-I made stencils out of foam paper, I spray with whatever other colors for the stencils .

-After significant drying, I spray painted with a satin clear coat for protection: .

Here is my result: .

I would have used perhaps a more glossy finish since the snow stuck on the top of my board more than before with the factory paint. It's not something I would do a newer board personally.

u/andrew9223 · 10 pointsr/bicycling

Rustoleom has been making this stuff for like a decade.

u/HaydenSI · 10 pointsr/CalamariRaceTeam

Ive had success with this spray but it comes off fairly easily.

My next project is to install a servo to a switch on the bars that just flips the plates up when going through them.

u/kyriose · 10 pointsr/minipainting

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:


  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette


  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish


  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2

    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/Fivecent · 9 pointsr/pics

Retroreflectives are fuckin cool.

Here's some spray if anyone wants to experiment with stenciling, but there's also tape and all kinds of stuff. Fun when everyone has headlamps.

u/CheshireM · 9 pointsr/minipainting

These are really excellent for first minis, there's a ton you did right:

  • Neat and clean areas of color
  • Good shading
  • Edge-highlighting of consistent width
  • Some fun technical effects like blood
  • Actually good eyes (seriously this is super difficult to do well)

    It looks like you used some sort of gloss varnish on them, and if I were to offer one piece of advice, it would be to ditch the gloss and use a matte finish like Testor's Dullcote. You can even spray these guys with a matte varnish to tone down their current glossiness.
u/flarg76 · 8 pointsr/Gunpla

First off, Welcome to /r/Gunpla and the plastic crack hobby

A few simple things that I think can help make a kit pop for cheap are

1.) Panel lining- basically just drawing in those recessed grooves that are all over. It gives depth and brings out details. The ones i use are like this. Brown for reddish colors, grey for light, and black for darker plastic. Usually $2-4 per marker depending on how you buy em

2.) Nub removal- there are tons of resources for how to do this "properly" and everyone finds their own way. The general consensus is first cut about halfway between the runner (the rounded pipe like stuff that all the parts come in) and the gate (where the runner narrows down and connect to the piece you are actually using).
Then using an exacto knife cut that remaining little bit off and buff the rest with high grit sandpaper 500 or higher works well. Its ok to be a little bit sloppy here because...

3.) Top coat- This stuff will coat the model and make all those sand marks go away. It also makes the model look less "plasticy" and more like the "real" thing. There are primarily 3 types: Matte/flat which is not shiny at all like a military vehicle would be, gloss which is very shiny like a sports car, and satin which is somewhere in between. I prefer matte lke this. Just pop the arms and legs off and spray.

From there you can get into the deeper stuff if you are so inclined such as painting, modding and scratch building. There are plenty of great resources here such as the sidebar guide or falldog's guide which is how I learned.

Sorry for the long post but,

Happy Building!

u/Mcashley311 · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Special thanks to u/jack2game for the waterslide decal inspiration and tips.

Decal paper (Clear backing, for inkjet printers)

Krylon Topcoat Spray, Clear (Not currently pictured, as these are still drying. I did a test run though and it REALLY takes down the shiny “sticker” look, as well as smooths out all the edges so you don’t feel it beneath your fingers. It also adds a slightly rougher finish, that feels more similar to PBT than smooth ABS.)

u/trevortypes · 7 pointsr/Sneakers

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost


Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)


Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98

u/c800600 · 6 pointsr/muglife

Nail polish won't hold up in the microwave. It pops/explodes.

I found these two sealants options used for diy painted dishes: Mod Podge Dishwasher Safe and Krylon Crystal Clear. They are both supposed to be dishwasher safe, but I don't think they are microwave safe.

u/windupmonkeys · 6 pointsr/modelmakers

Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.

For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.

For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively:

If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:

  1. Spray cans: (Model Master Spray Enamels). What you'd be doing is buying the gray or whatever base color of the Snowspeeder, then spraying that (do this outdoors, this stuff is noxious). Similarly, Tamiya makes good spray paint in a can. Long term, this is not an ideal solution. They cost a lot per can and that money is better spent saving up towards an airbrush if you continue building models Detail painting can be brush painted by Tamiya, Model Master, Vallejo, AK, or other branded paints (these are all acrylics.)

  2. Brush painting only:
    If you are only brush painting, see this guide:

    As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.

    An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.

    If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.

    Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.

    Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.

    Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.

    A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:

  3. Re: tomboy/judgment: You shouldn't have to worry about such things and he's probably just as happy to sell you kits anyway. It's a hobby after all (and let's face it, a damn nerdy one).

    Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.

    Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.
u/Blusttoy · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

I personally swear by Mr Super Clear

Having tried Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Krylon, Mr Super Clear is very forgiving in terms of topcoating. My general experience is that Krylon's particles feels somewhat larger than Mr Super Clear, which will result in a rougher matte finish. While Krylon is easily value for money, it's also meant for larger objects, such as handicraft or table showpieces.

Mr Hobby feels the same as My Super Clear but the small can finishes up quickly. Note that different paint bases may "eat" another layer. For non-painted kits, it's fine but for painted, it's one of the important considerations

Tamiya is also a decent brand but I felt that I needed more coats to achieve the same result as Mr Super Clear.

When I have issues with frosting, a quick layer of Mr Super Clear Gloss will clear the frosting, and I'll matte topcoat it on another day, and the previous frosting will not be noticeable.

An example of my OOB Marasai that was topcoated with Mr Super Clear

The O with the matte coat, doing a decent job hiding the decal edges as well after Mr Mark setter and softer

Don't mind the titanium finish Sinanju, that's uncoated. The Sazabi was matte coated

RG stickers after being topcoated

However, if you're asking for topcoat using an airbrush, I do not have an airbrush set, so am unable to provide any opinion.

u/Shenaniganz08 · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6

And that's it.

  1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.

    2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.

    3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.

    4)Use the Gundam markers for lining

  2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).

    6)Finally finish with a top coat

    Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).

    So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
u/ixplodestuff · 6 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

If hairspray doesn't hold it you should try to find a spray on clear acrylic coat like this. Modge Podge would probably smear all of the lipstick.

u/Sam_Vimes81 · 6 pointsr/sticker

Thank you so much!

I've only been at it for just over a month now, so I'm no expert by any means, but here's what I found works best for me:

this paper
UV spray
For Cutting
[I use this printer] (

I started out using regular sticker paper with a cold-press laminate(it was the cheapest route), and they looked and felt really first. they didn't hold up against weather and water for very long. The laminated part was water proof, but it would get wet under the sticker, and eventually break the sticker apart. They were also hard to make without them getting all scratched up before you even cut them.

I like that vinyl paper a lot. There are a lot of options for it, but that is the most cost effective, and so far, it's been really fantastic. The paper is water resistant, so water doesn't get underneath the sticker and break it apart like the other ones. After I print a page, I spray it with that UV spray. It just gives a nice texture that I like, and keeps them from fading in the sun. I ran a sticker through the dishwasher before I sprayed it. The sticker part held on phenominally well, the ink ran tho. I haven't tried it with the coat, but I don't see myself washing many stickers.

After the spray dries (a couple of minutes), a run it through the Cameo 3. I started out with a Cricut. I actually like the Cricut machine better. It's designed to just work. However, the software is garbage. It's web based, and even worse, it automaticaly arranges your artwork on the page to be printed and cut. That sounds nice, but 99% of the time, it wasted more than half the page. I was throwing out so much paper. There are some workarounds I found online, but they were tedious, innacurate, and not worth the effort. I do not reccommend the cricut until they get their software in line. The Cameo takes a little more fiddling with, but it's more custumizable, and I arrange stickers on the page how I want.

My printer is just that low-end Epson. It works great actually. The only thing I would suggest is getting a printer that you can side-load. I feel like the the paper getting bent through the printer isn't good for the paper, and makes the printing inconsistent (also, it probably has to do with being a cheap printer too). I plan on upgrading, but I already bought a bunch of ink, and I want to get through that first.


Sorry about the novel!

u/Merman_Pops · 5 pointsr/boardgames

Buy some clear spray on acrylic. It will take a few coats but you’ll add a lot more life to your pieces.

u/CreauxTeeRhobat · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've heard you can use filler primer for smaller cracks, and bondo for larger cracks/seams.

I would, of course, test how the PLA reacts to the primer, first, though. Wouldn't want to ruin a 20 hour print!

u/LethargicRush · 5 pointsr/Gunpla

KRYLON DIVERSIFIED BRANDS K01311007 Krylon 1311 Aerosol Matte Satin Finish Spray Enamel 11 Ounce

I used this and it was real easy to use. Lol also cause other brands like mr hobby and other brands cant be obtained easily but this was.

u/The__Duck · 5 pointsr/Warmachine

One layer of this gloss finish:

Then two layers of this:

After that your paint will never chip and there should be no shine. You could probably use just dull coat but this has been my post painting ritual for a long time now.

u/Alyathea · 5 pointsr/3DS

best markers I've found are POSCA paint markers.

I would do a light sanding with 800 grade sand paper on them, prime them with the backing color you want, and let it dry. Then you can draw on them and clear coat.

I recommend doing it this way, as sometimes if you don't prep the plate first the clear coat can have weird effects.

The items I've used:

The primer you can use black/white/any color for backing, and I use the same brand in a clear matte finish for the clear coat.

u/fxakira · 4 pointsr/Gunpla
  1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
  2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
  3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
  • Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  • Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  • Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  • Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  • I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.

    Good luck!
u/h-e-a-t-h-e-r · 4 pointsr/Journaling

The biggest downfall to pencil is it's not permanent, it can so easily be smudged or potentially worn down and you won't be able to read it anymore. However, you could use something like Krylon Spray Fixatif to help preserve it. I mean, there are notebooks and files from decades ago that'd been written in pencil and they're still legible, so if you take care of it, it should be fine.

Don't wait for a particular day or time, start right now!

As for privacy, I'm gonna repeat the advice I gave to someone else. I don't know how old you are, but if you're old enough to make purchases on your own, the company Vaultz makes locking boxes in a bunch of different sizes and they're pretty affordable. You can search on Amazon for "Vaultz lock box." Depending on how many journals you have and the dimensions of the book(s), another option would be a locking bag, the kind companies use for night deposits. Also something you can find on Amazon, I think "locking money bag" should bring up different options. The bag would be easier to hide, you can put it inside your pillow or under your mattress.

u/bringtea · 4 pointsr/muacjdiscussion

I've used this spray in the past to keep makeup in place. I believe I was just drawing on card stock at the time.

u/Falkon650 · 4 pointsr/Teachers

I put down white pain about 5 layers to make it look go (go as glossy as possible) Then i used Clear Whiteboard paint that i got from Homedepot

Used 3 layers of that.

I did it in January and they lasted until the end of the year. USing the fine markers made clean up way easier. Each student had their own cloth and my class at the end of the day wiped them down. You might have to replace em every other year id think. I put down some decals aswell and covered them in the clear paint to (coordinate plane 15x15, multiplication table, numberline). Kids picked at the stickers and ruined another teachers desk who did it too but mine stayed great cause i laid down the rules early on that if they messed em up id mess them up.

u/iBallThatsAll · 4 pointsr/cars

I'm using this clear coat spray. It's has a UV sealant added. Will this due?

u/SovereignGFC · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

For me high speed (Dremel/finishing sander) sanding on PLA only made things worse.

The plastic started to melt into the sandpaper, ruining the sandpaper quickly without accomplishing much.

If the details of the print can survive it, the best way to finish PLA is to hide everything under primer paint.

Hit the PLA with 120 and 220 sandpaper by hand. Light and slow are the operative words here--plus patience. 120 may not be needed or may even be counter-productive on 0.1/0.05mm parts.

Do a second pass with 400 grit. The part should be relatively smooth to the touch.

Then I apply filler primer (smaller details, not going to sand, don't want to smother) or sandable filler primer (flat surfaces, larger details, both details and surfaces can be sanded by hand).

Filler primer of either sort works best in many light coats rather than a few heavy applications.

Sand filler primer with 400 (or 220 if there's somehow too much of it). You can even step up to 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 (I did this to ONE part). Again, light and slow or the sandpaper will quickly pick up paint that is now mashed in, ruining it. Don't bother hitting the PLA with anything above 400 grit--it doesn't work well and eats through sandpaper. You're better off using higher grits on the paint rather than the part.

Finally apply whatever paint or other colors you want on top of the primer.

I highly recommend a competent "shop-vac" to contain dust and lengthen the lifetime of your sandpaper. If you don't sand too "hard" most of the plastic/paint will vacuum right out, greatly extending the lifetime of each piece.

u/fluxual · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat

I luckily have a local shop that's a bit cheaper than this but this is good stuff.

u/ajree210 · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Testors Dulcote Spray, little blue spray can, can get it on amazon. Haven’t used another matte spray since!

u/StopDropNFrag · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

For anyone interested, I've also used Mr. Color Top Coat and Molotov UV. They're much more expensive, but it works for me since I also use them on my Gundam builds.

Also, for the customizers out there, this is worth the watch. It's a comparison between different top coats.

u/silverwolf294 · 3 pointsr/tamagotchi

Ok so I havent try this on my Tamas but seeing how the shell is plastic it might work and be a better solution than nail polish. My other hobby is building plastic models and I use a clear plastic top coat to protect them. Needless to say protect the screen with masking tape before doing that, a few light coats should do the trick. Here is what I use:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray

Also your local hobby store like Michael and Hobby Lobby should have other options. Just make sure they are Flat or Matte not glossy.

u/fkwillrice · 3 pointsr/watercolor101

You did a watercolor on canvas? Interesting choice, how'd that work out for you? Normally I'd say what you're looking for is a [spray fixative] ( (they sell these at art stores), but I have no idea how they work with canvas. I normally ship larger pieces in bubble mailers, and those clear plastic sleeve bag things work wonders, but I have no idea how thick your canvas is.

[This shipping method] ( is the approach I would take in your shoes, and if it were me personally I would skip the fixative. Good luck!

u/ZeusThunder369 · 3 pointsr/watercooling

If you already have tubes bent/installed, one thing you could try (was something I considered but didn't end up trying it out) is just applying frosted glass spray paint to them. Could just order a single tube and a can of paint to try it out.

Paint is very cheap too:

u/blueunitzero · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Sorry had the wrong wording its Tamiya Fine Primer

I guess i was thinking about (and still screwed up) the name of their glue i use

u/Lrs8855 · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Drop some PVA on a base, spread it around with a bush you don't care much about (stiff bristle works best).

I set the mini down inside a sandwich tupperware, pull some "washed dirt" or "driveway magic" as some call it, and cover the base in the stuff entirely, the more the merrier. Wiggle it a bit to fill in gaps, and leave to dry overnight.

After that night, I usually take a stiff bristle brush (or toothbrush, which I prefer), and scrape out any loose rocks and dust from the bases.

After the removal of stuff-that-didn't-stick-well, you're good to prime your miniatures as usual! GW stuff works awesome, but I like:

Gray is easy to work UP from into brights, and DOWN from into darks. If you want to take it a step further and "pre-highlight" your models, prime white on top, grey in mid, and a splash of black around the feet (or any combination, if your color scheme is too light for black around feed, two-tone works well).

TLDR: Answer to your question, Glue -> Sand/Dirty -> Brushie Brushie -> Prime.

u/fdtc_skolar · 3 pointsr/bicycling

There is reflective spray paint available. I've been thinking about getting it for my foul weather commuter.

EDIT: another option is to use reflective glass beads. Process would be something like: paint, coat with beads while tacky, and maybe clear coat.

u/ctscott6 · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Plan out your color and drawing first of all. If its something super simple like white, black, red, blue, or yellow, there could just be a primer spray in that color.

So you would just wash the shells with warm water, soap, and one of those yellow/green sponges. as the green scour pad is almost rough enough to remove the top layer of material. Which is about as rough as you want it.

Once theyre clean and dry, hit it with the primer. one good coat from about 12 to 16 inches away should be fine. If you want it really thin, then two single passes (ensuring to cover all of the outside) should suffice.

If the primer is the color you want, then skip this. but if you want a different color, i would suggest Krylon matte spray paints. REALLY THIN COATS, letting it dry in between each one. Until your desired level of color is achieved.

If at any point they begin to "feel" different, you can hit them with a super fine sand paper until they feel nice again.

once your color is down, do your drawing or painting.

Then use a Crystal clear acrylic finish. Similar fashion as to how you applied your primer and paints.

If it goes on too thick, then hit it with a second coat. Let that dry, then hit it with the sand paper.

Clean that off and you can polish it with water and a super fine grit sandpaper.

u/Thecolby413 · 3 pointsr/trees

Not an expert on painting but they make a spray on clear coat that seals, and also adds a shine to whatever you spray it over!

u/ChikNoods · 3 pointsr/Honda

listen. after you sand and polish. Get this clear coat -- make sure you get GLOSS and makes sure its UV resistant + sticks to plastic. UV is what we're fighting. 3 LIGHT wet coats 2 minutes a part.

This is a before

This is an after with Rustoleum clear coat -- I did this about a month ago and they look exactly the same today. Car washes, rain, hot heat. perfect

full shot

u/wargear_workshop · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For me, I have found this one works the best:

I print PLA. I haven't tested this with ABS, but it probably works just as well.

u/BrickInHead · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I had the exact same problem when I started painting - I use basic Walmart acrylics, used the testors brush on, and it peeled off a ton of paint. After looking around I saw a bunch of suggestions for Testors Spray Dull Coat, tried it out, and works wonders. Haven't had a problem with peeling paint since. I know a lot of people recommend using gloss coat first for strength and then brushing on matte. That's next on my list to try.

u/Komm · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.

u/SifuSeafood · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Materials you need

Duck Brand Silver Mirror tape

Matte finish spray paint. I had left over Dullcote. I would suggest lacquer based spray paint as it has high durability and enamel being next best option.

Not really required. Adhesion promoter from automotive retailer (Autozone/ O'reilly's, NAPA, etc)
I'd suggest applying adhesion promoter primer + lacquer/enamel based clear coat for the best results. I kind of regret skipping the primer as my top coat has already been scraped.

I sprayed the
entire* case. I didn't like the gloss finish.

Spray multiple light coats and be patient. Don't let anything pool and/or run.

As for the tape, just cut to size and stick it on the bottom. I covered like 90%. You can probably be meticulous and cover more than I did. Now that I write this, maybe sticking some on the bottom of the PCB will help as well. Just make sure not to cover the RGB lights, of course.

u/r0wo1 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

After you finish the mini (for example after using a wash, which I highly recommend) matting your miniature will seal in the paint and give it really strong protection from chipping.

I use two light layers of Krylon Matte Finish followed by one light coat of Testors Dullcote both of which you can find at Michaels (and probably Hobby Lobby). It feels slightly like overkill, but you would have a hard time chipping the paint after both.

u/patrick_dev · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Second-ing everything that has been said so far. Primer first, paint it, matte varnish to protect. Personally have been using Testor's Dullcote for years with great success.

If you didn't prime first, I would suggest taking the paint off (stripping) and repainting. If you put the varnish on top with no primer underneath, your paint will still chip off in chunks (got greedy, tried it, didn't end well).

u/corejh · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I agree they're definitely too glossy. I've been using Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Matte Sealer, but it doesn't seem to go on matte at all. Maybe I need a few more passes? I also ordered a can of Testor's Spray Lacquer because that's what I saw Sorastro using in some of his guides. Any other recommendations for products that would give me a better matte finish?

Funny you pointed out the black and red, those were the only colors I used straight from the bottle and didn't mix with anything. I'll definitely try to thin them out next time.

Thanks for the critique!

u/89SuperJ · 3 pointsr/Warhammer


Edit: make sure you get the right finish i.e. Gloss/Flat

u/Cyntax3rr0r · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This video uses Army Painter's Quickshade, which also gives the muddy look you're after. While different from a wash, the method is the same if you're treating the entire mini with nuln oil. Keep the shadow areas dark and whisk away shade on the highlighted areas. Or simply darken the areas selectively with the wash.

I'd recommend Testor's Dullcote for a good spray matte varnish. You can find it at most big box and craft stores also.

u/DaksTheDaddyNow · 3 pointsr/pics

Rust-Oleum 267727 Specialty Mirror Spray, 6-Ounce

u/iamtheplainswalker · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

I generally use the black version of this:

It is relatively inexpensive and plastic safe.

Alternatively you can use Games Workshop's spray primers, but they are really expensive.

u/tuna1997 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Well there are a few things that could've gone wrong looks like.

Firstly, which topcoat from Mr Hobby did you get? Did you use an airbrush and used the mr color lacquer line or did you use Mr. Topcoat like this one (Short can same size as a Tamiya sprays) or Mr. Superclear like this one (Tall can same size as Tamiya primer)? Mr. Topcoat is acrylic based, while Mr. Superclear is lacquer based.

If you used the first can, it's actually acrylic based which is also what the gundam marker eraser is designed to remove (acrylic-based paint or alcohol-based paint).

Another issue could've been simply because you rubbed too hard. Regardless if you use lacquer-based or acrylic based paint, if you rub too hard against the painted plastic piece, you'll eventually rub some of the topcoat off.

u/Leo-Tyrant · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

The major impact is due to the Matte top coat:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray

They are VERY cheap in Japan but good luck importing them at a good price.

u/Chaguman · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

This is Topcoat (cost less than this like 10USD) it makes the plastic less glossy ( makes it look way better without having to paint) also protects the plastic and panel linings

u/elescapo · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

I use this stuff. A bit pricey, but can be found at lower prices than Amazon if you look around. Works great. Nice flat finish. (If you want certain parts to be shiny you will need to go over them afterward with 'Ard Coat or some other gloss medium.)

u/twistedweasel · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

You can use a clear acrylic spray. I have used such things on top of paint and on bare wood before. They work pretty well. Something like this (although I haven't used this particular one)

u/--xxyyzz-- · 2 pointsr/SCREENPRINTING

You could probably spray it with fixative.
It'll keep it from yellowing and smudging.
If you don't want the glossy coat, you can just Amazon search fixative.

u/Bananaboy773 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I use this to set my decals

u/Cosmic_Ostrich · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Huge improvement! Did you give the whole thing several coats of clear lacquer finish? If not, you should. Make sure you take the panel back off first, of course.

u/kellykart · 2 pointsr/ArtistLounge

Workable fixatif if you want to work into it anymore
Krylon K01306 Workable Fixatif Spray Clear, 11-Ounce Aerosol

Liquitex spray varnishes for final

I use these almost daily. MFA, teacher, multi media artist.

Oh. I was also walking down my hall and remembered I had a UV archival gloss spray by krylon.

Edited to add spray

u/Magnetar12358 · 2 pointsr/alitabattleangel

The charcoal contrast looks great. I found this video which is very relevant to your drawing. It's a mixed graphite/charcoal drawing of the beautiful Audrey Hepburn. She has jet black hair like Alita in the reference photo.

Yes, use graphite first and then charcoal last. You can prevent smudging by using a piece of paper to rest your drawing hand. When you're finished with your art, you can spray it with a fixative like this which has a matte finish.

Here's a secret weapon to use for values: a value chart. Our eyes deceive us. When dark values are next to semi-dark values, the semi-dark value can appear much lighter than it is. Print out the chart and place it on the reference picture and all areas where the value changes on Alita's face. You'll get a sense of how dark or light the values are in the reference. Then use that value chart on different areas of your drawing and you'll know where you need to darken or lighten.

Here's another secret weapon: the proportional divider. You don't need to use grid lines. Actually you can use none or only a few lines. Some people claim it's cheating, but that's nonsense. You still have to draw the picture and it will improve your sense of proportion. Here's the dirty secret: many portrait artists will use it to check their drawing. They will draw it freehand, but will check the proportions with the divider or compass or pencil. Here's the quick video and here's the longer video by an art teacher.

I don't see many comments on actual technique, but I believe sharing ideas is very important.

u/G0ATLY · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


Working Fixitive

I really would like this because I am super paranoid about smearing artwork. I've been using hairspray, but it can warp and discolor over time. Would love to 'set' my work from session to session.

u/FuckMeUpButtercup · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I haven't used it for makeup, but I've been using this stuff for a few years for art-related projects. One quick coat works like a charm and keeps most of my projects from smearing and transferring. On things that have a lot of pigment, I sometimes use a second coat just to be sure.

Krylon K01306 Workable Fixatif Spray Clear, 11-Ounce Aerosol

I've also used AquaNet hairspray in the past and gotten similar results.

If I were to use tape, I'd think just a clear packing tape of sorts could work? Hmm. Now I'm curious. Haha. Regardless, good luck with it all!

u/corpsesprinkles · 2 pointsr/TheScriveners

If you wanted to stick with pencil/not have to go over that in pen, you can always try [this.] ( It's basically sealant to help prevent smudging.

Just thought I'd throw that out there. :)

u/anathemas · 2 pointsr/Coloring

Hope you find something you like. :)

I just realized I forgot a couple of things, and Amazon is working again, yay!

Krylon setting spray - it's the only setting spray I've ever used, but it sets well, as long as you don't try to change it - quite easy to edit imo (you can look at my recent post, Greyscale portrait, to see that it didn't stop me from editing at all -- and that picture was months old.

Also, I got this lapdesk when I had surgery but still been pretty useful when I want to go outside or color in bed.

My top recs would BV electric eraser and the blending pencils, but I've included everything I consider worth having. :)

u/uofkENTucky · 2 pointsr/trees

Instant frosted glass. And you can use painters tape to make a design.

u/malvoliosf · 2 pointsr/DIY

Call 911, make a death threat. After SWAT busts down your door, file an insurance claim and get a new door.

Less creatively, a can of Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass is $3.67 from Amazon.

u/thenightgaunt · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Brush on or spray?

Always use spray.
My preference is Tamiya grey fine primer.

I've never had an issue with it. One thin coat will do it. You're just putting in on there to help the paint have something to adhere to smoothly. That's all unless you really care about what color your base cost goes over.
That's why I go with grey personally.

Also dont spray when it's raining or high humidity. It screws with the paint.

u/Orgell_Evaan · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

u/solipsistnation · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

For acrylic you can use water as a thinner, or windex if you really want (some people use it to thin paint for airbrushing). For enamel you need turpenoid or paint thinner. Odorless turpenoid from an art store is good because it's not stinky, but you could use turpentine or whatever.

I'm not sure basic enamel will work as a primer-- is it a fairly matte finish? I like Tamiya's spraycan primer-- it's very fine-grained matte paint and sticks to all kinds of stuff.

Have you bought any paint yet at all? If not, get a spraycan of Tamiya primer, and use all acrylic for everything else. It's easy to clean up and won't give you headaches if you don't have good ventilation, and you'll know nothing's going to eat anything else and you can mix everything with everything else... Thin with water, clean your brushes and stuff with water, keep it simple.

This is the primer:

One can will last for 4 or 5 1/35 tanks.

u/DirtyYogurt · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would suggest using some of that whiteboard paint or chalkboard paint for the top. Minimizes the number of pieces that can be lost by the drunks.

u/scherlock79 · 2 pointsr/finishing

Unfortunately, repairing porcelain enamel surfaces isn't a DIY job. There are some products for bathtubs and there are high temperature enamel paints, but those aren't porcelain enamel coatings. There are companies that can refinish the item for you, like this one,, no idea if they are any good though.

If this for an oven, and the part doesn't actually touch food, I'd contact Rustoleum, they make high temp enamel paints for grills, I'd imagine an oven a similar enough to be okay, though you might need bake in the finish before cooking food in it.

u/Taurothar · 2 pointsr/DIY

A high temp barbeque paint would work wonderfully for what you're looking for. You're only painting the handles, which won't be in direct contact with food I assume. There are a few colors available, but pretty limited, so a varied stripe pattern might work.

They're designed for a grill which is near high temperatures and food safely, but not in direct contact with the food. You could check with the customer support at Rust-Oleum to be sure it's safe on kitchen cookware but I can't see a reason it wouldn't be.

u/BlackBeltJake · 2 pointsr/kettlebell

Buy a can of stove-black at the hardware store. something like this. Cheap and easy to apply, but do it outside (LFMF).

u/BlueSapphyre · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I've never tried it, but maybe you can use Clear Matte paint. I've used it for paper, so it'll probably work with card stock.

I've had my copy for like 5 years, and it doesn't show much wear..

u/Deoxysprime · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

u/CivilC · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

u/JYB1337 · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Its all about putting on a coat or 2 of clear acrylic spray paint after painting (like this kind). Another good thing to do is to sand it down with 400 grit or higher sandpaper before painting if you're painting the entire body.

u/honoh · 2 pointsr/howto

try using a glossy artist fixative, coat the entire glass so it won't chip away, and use two layers of coat minimum. I've used a matte finish before and that lasted three months, if you aren't using the glass then it should last forever.

Hopefully this will work just fine

Artist fixatives help avoid fading from sunlight, and since I see that's a valid concern in this thread I'd be excited to suggest this product. Us drawing types use this to protect pretty much any type of work and it's held up on my own pictures. The glass I mentioned lated for three months, but I think the fault was that I used a workable matte finish rather than and acrylic glossy. It should coat your glass in a thin film that will protect the signature just fine, if you put it in a display case or a trophy stand it ought to last forever! Hope I helped!

u/pervian · 2 pointsr/ak47

Why not just spray coat the parts with some type of clear coating to keep the look of everything? Would something like this work to keep the 'look' including the sticker in place as well as the shellac chips as they are? I'm not too knowledgeable on the paint finishing side of life.

u/Veridor · 2 pointsr/chemistry

Thanks for the input. Is Crystal Clear some sort of varnish/paint/lacquer? Something like this: Krylon Crystal Clear spray,

u/TheBobMcCormick · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Rather than struggle with print settings, it might make more sense to spray it with a waterproof, clear sealer like this one.

u/Beanzomatic · 2 pointsr/drawing

I've used this stuff:

or just look up acrylic clear coat

u/red_cheesy_sticks · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I would print at the highest resolution possible. Then use a spray paint enamel protective coating. Apply multiple layers until you get a thick, glossy, smooth coat. I just tried this this past weekend and the results were pretty neat! You can still kind of see the layers, but the surface is very smooth and shiny to the tough. Plus it kept the original color of the PLA.

This is exactly what I got:

Rust-Oleum 249117 Painter's Touch Multi Purpose Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Clear

u/radicalpancakes · 2 pointsr/Acura_RSX

A clear that is UV resistant. Rustoleum makes one that should work

u/mister____mime · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

If the damage is done by UV radiation, couldn't you just coat the cases with something like this?

u/Dim5678 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are many ways to do this. If you print with ABS, acetone vapor smoothing is a pretty good option. You can also try a clear coat paint, or simply sand the object with sandpaper. There are also more novel coatings such as xtc-3d, but those tend to be pretty expensive. The method you proposed with gorilla glue might work, though you might want to thin it down with a solvent such as denatured alcohol to make it easier to apply and not have visible brush marks.

u/JoseJimeniz · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/KYLYKaHYT · 2 pointsr/ar15

Yeah, I thought about that too after I posted my reply. Another possible option would be some flat black automotive exhaust system paint.

u/Toph19 · 2 pointsr/BBQ

You're on the right track. The single barrel UDS upright is really only 4 main parts. You have your drum, a fire basket, grate, and lid. I'm at work otherwise I would take pics of mine and walk you through it. Might be able to still do that later but here are a couple things to look at to get you started. link cross section

I have a heat deflector on my charcoal basket as well. It was cheaper to just make a clover shape deflector out of 3 pizza pans with a bolt through the edge. All about getting creative.

Here's a write up of how I made mine:

  1. Burn out the drum - I burned out the drum with a propane weed burner. You can buy one pretty cheap from Harbor Freight or rent one from a local place. I burned out the liner of the drum really well so that the liner didn't come off and end up in my food. Took about 2 hours of good burning and vigorous steel brushing to clean it up to my satisfaction.

  2. Fire basket - I cannibalized an old Weber grill for a bunch of parts for this build. I used the charcoal grate, some expanded metal mesh, and some steel zip ties to form a basket shape. A few inches of threaded rod with some washers and nuts to fasten it to the grate for legs and boom - fire basket is good to go.

  3. Lid - I used an old Weber 22" lid for this so I could have a middle and top rack in my smoker. I flared out the edge and riveted on a piece of tin to make it a little wider since the original size was roughly the same as the barrel and you want a nice fit. You can go with a flat top and add a stack or get creative. Just keep in mind the airflow.

  4. Burn 'n' beer. I was still unsure of the chemicals ending up in my food so I decided to take a break. Loaded up the barrel with some good hard wood and started a hobo campfire. Buddy and I drank some beers and relaxed for a bit while that sucker got spit-jumping hot - as in, we would spit on the outside and it would appear to bounce off.

  5. Air inflow - This was the hardest part for me. I used salvaged black pipe and made intake pipes that went in at the bottom and ran parallel to the drum up to the top where it was finished with a couple gate valves. I liked the valves for controlling the air flow but found that the 2 x 1" pipes weren't enough. So I ended up putting two more "always open" holes about 2" above the bottom. That seemed to fix it and give me the control I wanted.

  6. Paint - you don't have to, but if you're gonna spend the money, you may as well protect your investment. I used Rustoleum High Heat and it worked well. I've seen some people get crazy with designs but that's totally up to you.
  7. Racks and Temp Guage - I installed the racks by resting them on self tapping metal screws put through from the outside. Only had to put two in because I ended up adding U-bolts to support the black pipe intake valves and they poked through far enough to rest the grate on. The temp guage that i installed was just a cheapo grill one - nothing special but it gets the job done.

    Now I don't move mine far so I never installed the castors that I was planning on using. I had the basic design in my head of using angle iron and basically making a permanent hand truck that attaches to the side of the drum and all you had to do to move it was tilt the drum onto the wheels and you're off.

    This is a pretty rough write up and I apologize for the lack of pics. If I can find my build pics, I'll post them here. Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help!
u/XA36 · 2 pointsr/NFA

If you want it black I suggest high temp paint

u/kscannon · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I usually dont have much to fill, just need to hide layer lines if I choose too. I use a filler primer, usually rust-oleum

Edit: thats not the exact one, just first result on amazon

u/dabarisaxman · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's super cool. With your blessing, I might do something similar for a friend's upcoming wedding.

In case you haven't seen it, filler primer is amazing for priming 3d prints for paint. Give it a few coats, hit it with sand paper/files, and you get an amazing, smooth surface, but that doesn't obscure details.

u/6atman315 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is what I usually use. Pretty much whatever the hardware store has, though.

u/bemonopo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I painted a similar bear and had trouble with glossy fur. To get around it, I sprayed a few coats of Krylon Matte Finish.

u/sharkeyx · 2 pointsr/Tyranids

Testor's dull coat, after you're done painting and before you put any flock/grass/ w/e down (as it will weight it down and can look bad), just spray them like you would with priming them (short bursts from a distance). Let that set overnight and make sure to do this outside and/or in a well ventilated area as it has a strong odor that will linger. If you have to do it outside, leave them outside for at least half an hour and you'll be good to bring them in with minimal odor to finish curing.


After that you can put down any grass/flock on the base.


One caveat, if you have a lot of metallics on your guys this will be dulling them (this is matte after all), so gotta weigh durability with shinyness for if you want to varnish them. I usually still do for miniature games like this, as things bump a lot over time and are handled a bunch. The metallics are still metallics and show, just not as nicely as they did before varnish.

u/_hei · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

It does. This is the one I use, although I'm not sure if there are others.

It offers some level of protection, and I've only had one mishap (too humid). 9/10 would recommend. IMO the only problem is that the cans are too small.

u/MohnJaddenPowers · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you want markers for panel lining, I posted in another thread - these are all you'll probably ever need:

They clean up wonderfully. A Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol will swipe off any pigment that shouldn't be somewhere.

I've used nothing but Alclad flat and matte topcoat, but if you don't have an airbrush, Testor's Dullcote is an industry standard:

u/Beadpool · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends
  1. It’s going to be hard to match skin tones. You’ll just have to experiment. Maybe watch some videos on glazing and wet blending. Just a couple techniques that might help get two close colors to transition a bit more seamlessly.

  2. Number of layers depends on how thin the paints are and which colors you’re painting over. When starting, it’s always best to take it slow. If the paint looks good enough to cover in one layer, it’s most likely not thinned enough. Don’t rush it. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying an additional coat.

    Depends if you want a glossier or dull finish, but something like this should be fine. Read reviews & directions. Shake well. Ventilate. Start spraying away from figure, then sweep over figure. Light coats and let dry THOROUGHLY before thinking about another layer. Mess this part up and it’s hard to go back.

    Hope this helps!
u/CommonSensai · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Those are great tips! I sprayed holding it slightly far away as I didn't want to drown out the detail. I don't think I started the spray off to the side though.

Regarding salvage, would the tackiness go away after I apply a coat of lacquer? I bought this,

Some other folks here are saying just paint over them. I have no hesitation about doing so but I really don't want them to be tacky forever.

u/dex206 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

After I paint any mini, I varnish it with gloss varnish, and then, most importantly spray the entire thing with Testor's Dulcote. It makes everything beautifully matte.

u/kingvortigern · 2 pointsr/minipainting

A few questions, followed by some suggestions:

Do you use your Citadel paint right out of the bottle? You might lose some of that gloss if you dilute your paint, which is something nearly all good painters recommend. I used the Citadel paints right out of the bottle for years, without knowing that. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk, more or less.

Yes, you should use a sealer, absolutely. Yes it does protect the final finish, but judicious use of it can help in other ways. But a matte sealer is critical. You can spray the entire finished piece with matte sealer, but that can ruin some of your metallic finishes. What I sometimes do is finish the piece, spray the entire thing with one or two LIGHT coats (always) of matte sealer. Then if you have any pieces of armor, or glass, or anything that should be shiny, you can then apply gloss or satin sealer with a brush to those areas to those areas only to bring the shine back. But truly, the matte brush on sealer, (or matte paints) really adds to the "realism" of the piece.

Also get some "flow-aid" and add a drop to your shades and washes. It helps break up the surface tension and helps the paint move around into the crevices. Try

For an excellent spray matte sealer try this one. Been around for years and still one of the best flat finishes out there:

Finally, go to CMON and download this painting guide if you've got an extra 10 bucks laying around. Very good guide, even for the pro.

And don't forget to visit Sign up for his newsletter, he sends out free tutorials every week. Also check out his Youtube channel.

Keep it up, nice work!

u/TheEpicKiller · 2 pointsr/Bombing

It's $15 a can but $8 on Amazon

u/animeprime · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Howdy all,
I'm fairly new to the hobby and been experimenting with painting up an army of salamanders. I tried using black then grey primer but that always made my greens too dark for my taste when using the GW formula or Waagh flesh, Warpstone Hlow, Moot green, they looked more like Dark Angels. I can get the shade I want with white primer, but the base coat is always going on very spotty and uneven. I've tried thinning my paints with more water but that made it worse. I tried only thinning it with the water in my brush and that made it better but it still collected in spots. You can see that in the first picture above marked “1 thin coat”. Another thin coat helps fix this but the paint job is still very uneven. I then have to do another thin coat in spots that are really white to try and bring it out, that is the second picture marked 2.5 thin coats. When I then do the Warpstone Glow and Moot it still runs and puddles in large blotches and doesn't look very even.
Could this be a problem with the primer? I'm using white Rust-oleum 2X ultra cover primer.

I've used the same brand in grey and never run into this issue. Is this just an issue when painting on white surfaces? I know it can be a real pain sometimes. I'm also thinning my paints with clean distilled water and tried various amounts of thinning.

u/superhole · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Definitely need new primer then. This or this is pretty good, can't really go wrong with it.

u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too. Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/Lvcios_Lunchbox · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This community has been great with answering so many questions but this is the first time I can’t find the question I’m asking
I’m hoping to step up my building with adding paints. So my questions are
1.For now I just want to paint the Master Grades inner frame. From what I’ve gathered, this would be a neat inner frame color but do I need to prime the inner frame ?
2. Assuming the inner frame is spray painted with question 1’s spray can and I go about my regular building process, when I matte topcoat finish with this, will it react it some weird way with the inner frame color ?

u/Trainn51 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

u/Propeller3 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey guys, I'm looking to build my first serious Gunpla here soon (built a bunch when I was a kid) and I want to finish it with a top coat. I've found this item from Mr. Topcoat, which seems good, but I was wondering if there are similar options in larger quantities or for better prices?

u/sunal135 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I used this on my wing SD and it destroyed my acrylic paint. If you spray it on bare plastic I would spray it slowly and it two or three layers.
Too much lacquer paint on PLC plastic can cause warping if your not careful as well.

I use lacquer top coats only after the gloss coat(gloss coat makes panel lining and decal/stickers easily)

I and a lot of others on here use Krylon,
It much cheaper and more widely available in brick and mortar.

u/Luke_Matthews · 1 pointr/boardgames

I've started using spray-on acrylic coating like this on my boxes. It's easier to apply and creates a more even finish than Mod Podge. :)

u/macktastic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Krylon 1311 Matte Finish has been mentioned here before as being a good budget topcoat. I picked up a can at Wal-Mart for $4 but haven't tried it yet.

They also have the [1303 Gloss Finish] (, I assume it's also as good, maybe? I haven't used either so I could be way wrong.

u/ASnugglyBear · 1 pointr/boardgames

TY for the work and documentation. Not the form factor I was planning on, but might be one I use. was great to find as your coating, as it's one I own but have, but have never used.

Do you have a link to the linen paper?

u/dume215 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Would this be an ok gloss coat?
Krylon K01303007 Acrylic Spray Paint Crystal Clear in 11-Ounce Aerosol

u/felcress · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Which one of these sprays should I get to coat it?

1. 2, or 3?

u/pipkin227 · 1 pointr/amiibo

I would bet you used latex paint. That can interact with the amiibo paint and make it permanently tacky from what I have read.

Use acrylic and something like this to seal it. You could potentially use that spray to get rid of the tacky feeling that's there now. I chose this in Matte rather than gloss.

Best case scenario, use very thin layers, but like three of them. Like dab your paint brush in water first, then layer the paint on.

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Okay so would this top coat work? or maybe this one An extra question. Would I place stickers before gloss coat or after gloss and before matte?

u/screwikea · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'd have them sign with it sitting on a table or something - a lot of those things will run/drip if you're pressing too hard. Obviously you'll want to test a few different markers or whatever.

Fixer is all I've ever heard it called - some brief research tells me what you're looking for is artist's fixative. Stuff like this, but there's a whole category of them. Different fixers for different mediums (chalk, paint, etc). The main idea being to keep stuff from smearing, but if you plan on putting it up on a public wall or something in the future, you'd cover that later with a topcoat so grubby finger oils won't cause problems.

u/ApplyOK · 1 pointr/Art

I use a heavy two coats of Krylon workable fixatif

u/masgrimes · 1 pointr/Calligraphy

haha. Yea, I thought it was a cool element, anyway. :)

Yes, I did! I sprayed it in two coats with Krylon Workable Fixatif. from about 12 inches back.

edit: added link.

u/daisyfairy42 · 1 pointr/cosplay

It's not really a wax, it's more of a spray. And yeah, gonna be the same style for a while. Was thinking about just trying it out to see what it does on a small section.

This is what it actually is by the way, not at all meant for hair but it's a synthetic wig anyway.

u/emongolab · 1 pointr/fakeid

I searched through the sub some, and found that someone suggested using a light coat of this

I'm still a little hesitant tho because the IDs were $150 and I don't really want to ruin them.

u/just_me_bike · 1 pointr/PrintedCircuitBoard

That is what is currently being used. I don't see how this helps all that much to be honest. They have been doing this for years though.

We also handling the boards to much imo. We get them from our supplier then program them, test them, spray them then mount them. Ideally it'd be nice to find a company that could send them 100% complete to us. If you have any recommendations that would also be appreciated.

u/Nitwad · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

It may come down to a difference in printers. Mine dries really quickly and isn't prone to smearing because I have a transparency print setting built in. Yours might use more ink or a different type of ink or something. If the ink continues to be annoying, I highly recommend spraying your sheets with something like this before you put them on the cards.

u/foxlie · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I bought this necklace from COS a while back and the gold finish is rubbing off the chain and it's getting a metallic smell. Does anyone have a great solution for this? After about 30 seconds of research I ordered this Krylon spray but I was wondering if anyone knows of a better solution before I spray it down.

u/thatotherguy321 · 1 pointr/DIY

don't know what OP used, but there are spray cans for frosted glass.

u/DistantRaine · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I came here to say film too. They also make a spray paint version here.

u/Me-as-I · 1 pointr/Vive

This is supposed to be for glass, perhaps it'd work for you...

u/nyy22592 · 1 pointr/Hue

I appreciate all of your insight, but I'm sorry if I made it seem like I was doing anything complex. I don't plan to do any wiring, which is why I bought the wall-ready socket.

Here's the plan:

  1. Take one of these and remove the LED candle screwed in from the bottom

  2. Use Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint to create a frosted effect on the glass. I'm also looking for a better option to dull the light coming through because I suspect this spray might be overkill.

  3. Drill a hole in the wall-facing side of the top part of the lantern so the cable can go out the back while the bulb portion hangs down. Very crude diagram of what I mean here.

  4. Use wooden sconces to hang the lantern on the wall, adding a hole to fit the cable through it and hide it behind. The cable matches the wall color and will be above a table, so it'll be relatively low-profile.

    I was thinking of finding a way to secure the bulb just so it doesn't move around freely, but I'm really just kind of winging all of this.
u/lazy_eye_of_sauron · 1 pointr/SteamController

Like everyone here said, the easy and save way would to be to get some vinyl decals. However, if you are dead set on painting, then it's not too hard to do. you're going to have to disassemble the controller. From there sand the controller, this gives the primer something to bite on to. once everything is nice and sanded take your primer (I recommend this.) and spray in light, even coats and let cure for the time on the can, and maybe a few hours longer. Once you're happy with the primer, take your spraypaint and apply in light, thin coats. Remember to let the paint dry fully between coats.
Once you are happy with the color and it has dried for the recommended time on the can, go ahead and choose your choice of clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte. also krylon works best for this) and apply in thin layers like you did the primer and paint. after it has sat for the directions on the can. you can now put the controller back together and test everything out. Assuming that you didnt mess up putting the controller back together, you now have a painted controller.

u/Merendino · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

My favorite prime is expensive but it is literally the best I've ever used, by miles.

Tamiya gray primer. They make a white and black I think. They are far and away better than anything you can buy at lowes. Comes at a premium price point though. You can pick up a can for like 6 bucks at a hobby lobby with their 40% coupon though.

u/Trapper_1 · 1 pointr/minipainting


Sorry for the bad start you had. You should seriously consider using only this for future priming:


It's very fine, won't clog details, will not remain sticky, and dries matte.

u/Kurelx · 1 pointr/modelmakers

It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .

You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.

Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.

u/hatsfourcats · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What can I use to remove tamiya spray primer ?

I'm new to using rattle cans and the pieces I did last night have some pooling.

u/akaisuiseinosha · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for Plastic and Metal.

This one:

u/tanzmeister · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

How about something like this?

u/kingofpoptart · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/m_bishop · 1 pointr/Cyberpunk

Is this new?

SportBike riders have been putting this stuff on their license plates forever. It makes it look normal all day, but when a cop tails you to get your plate, the camera (and cop) get too much reflection to make it out.

u/aristotleschild · 1 pointr/DIY

Same stuff, but thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually using it, and just erasing the ghosting w/ a Mr. Clean magic eraser every once in awhile.

Meanwhile I ordered this dry erase paint, which I'm going to apply in coats with the proper sanding and primer. Will report back here in a week or so--hopefully this works!

u/purefire · 1 pointr/DnD
u/Ireallyhatesquirrels · 1 pointr/crafts

Alternatively, if you can make a speech bubble out of another material more easily, you could then paint it with whiteboard paint. Just a thought.

u/GeneralRose · 1 pointr/DIY

Rust-Oleum 241140 Dry Erase Brush-On Kit, White

u/ianufyrebird · 1 pointr/DIY

Instead of that $130 kind, I used this $20 alternative which works fantastically. I made a table for D&D, and the entire tabletop is painted with this stuff. Used permanent marker to make a 1" grid via vertex dots, and the dots only sometimes come off when I use a magic eraser, which gets EVERYTHING else up.

u/o0BlackDragon0o · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Take your time to clean nub marks, it really does make a massive difference at the end, and is totally worth the time it takes.

as for other stuff that really makes a difference, get a panel line marker, they are dirt cheap and make so much difference to a kit.

the final thing is to get some matte clear coat, this gets rid of the "plastic" look to a kit, you will need to get a specialist one for plastic tho, so it get a little more expensive, a can like the one linked would last for 6-7 hg kits easily. if you have a games workshop near you as well, they also sell clear coat, though i would only reccomend this if you cant get mr. super clear or tamita stuff shipped to you, as its more expensive in my experience.

Good luck building your kit and welcome to the hobby!

u/crazypipo · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/iDingo91 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

  • Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  • Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  • Gundam Marker Value Set
  • Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  • Bamboo Skewers
  • Alligator Clips
  • ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  • Styrofoam Blocks

    I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.

    So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?

    Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?


  • Are the items I have listed a good starting point?

  • Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?

  • Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?

  • Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?

  • Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.

  • What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?

  • What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?

u/Fongore · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So I'm trying Mr. Super Clear Matte for the first time and got a couple questions. If Im doing "light" coats how many coats should I do? How much drying time should I allow between each coat? Thanks!

u/StrikeSunrise · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?

Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat?

And this for a gloss/metallic?

I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)

u/wakawakawomp · 1 pointr/Gunpla

2 Questions:

  1. What's the difference between these 2 'Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray Paint'?
    - Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray
    - Mr. Hobby Clear UV Cut Flat Spray
  2. Is it safe to spray lacquer paint (such as the flat top coats linked above) on bare plastic?
u/Turom · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thanks for the tip!

I found this one available for my country, is that it?

u/dodomir23 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm building a gunpla for the first time after making a few HGs back in middle school a few times, and I'm nearing finishing a kit.

I've seen some guides in Korean and they said "matt spray (I believe this is the right translation for that item)" is important to prevent discoloration. it was about 12 bucks they said, and I thought it would be worth the investment.

I've searched for the item on amazon but

it's almost 80 bucks here....?

do you guys know where I can get it cheaper on NA (or an alternative), this is almost 600% markup @[email protected];;;

u/rockstang · 1 pointr/smoking

That is all just surface level rust and blemishes. You could clean that up to look new pretty easily or keep it as is and it would be just fine. Just make sure to use the [right kinda paint] ( if you're planning on refacing.

u/karlhungusjr · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

> and best of all you get to avoid all of that unnecessary burning paint.

when you use he right kind of paint, it doesn't burn

u/BanHammerStan · 1 pointr/Harley

Remove the rust with emery cloth, tape the shit out of anything you don't want painted, and use barbecue paint in a rattle can.

u/Ski-gal · 1 pointr/Costco

Traegers, and in my experience most smokers, do rust. (except maybe the enamel green egg). Sand it and spray paint it with a high heat bbq paint. I do live in a high humidity area and I always keep mine. covered.

Rust-Oleum 7778830 High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black, 12-Ounce

u/BickNlinko · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I'm not sure what you paid for your turn signal , but the aftermarket ones are cheap , (mostly)universal and generally look better. Here is an example

>not to mention a disposable income.

Yah , and it's all disposed of on tires and shit for my race bike...and beer.

>I don't know where to buy exhaust paint from for cheap

You can find a cheap can of matte black grill paint at Home Depot or where ever for a few bucks , or try to just color it in with a sharpie. Here it is on Amazon for $4

As far as the lever goes if it's forged you may be able to bend it back. Here is a good thread on ADV rider on how to bend it back. . If it's a cheapo cast lever it will probably break.

u/jragle · 1 pointr/smoking

You can use Rust-Oleum High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black. Not painting the interiors would leave them susceptible to moisture and rust. Nice re-utilization by the way. Happy smokes.

u/heeroyuwee · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I used to use this a lot for Matte finishes. I could usually find it at my local hardware store for $5-6

u/skopedope · 1 pointr/nova

Wisix above is in the right direction. Additionally, get some painter's tape to cover parts you don't want painted (like eyelenses). After you put two coats of gloss black paint over the helmet, apply two coats of clear coat gloss for that Vader shine!

u/signint · 1 pointr/Gunpla

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

u/Effion · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Sorry, I wandered off. That link is more glossy, I like the gloss finish personally, but for a flat coat you want something more like this:

u/BadBrainLives · 1 pointr/BISMUTH

the crystals will be covering a 36x40" flat surface. i'm def not using nail polish on all of that. it'd take an eternity. alright, well thank you!

edit: I think this will work: and I already have a bunch that i use to preserve paintings, so should be good! let me know if you've heard otherwise about acrylic coating.

u/nite_ · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I think I figured out a way to get the gloss finish by using: Krylon 6-Ounce Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray

u/BraedonB · 1 pointr/longboarding

Amazon's acrylic clear, by Krylon. Likely also found at your local Home Depot, Rona, Wal-Mart, Canadian Tire, and possibly Target

u/NAMegaFauna · 1 pointr/sticker

This paper is a-ok

but also use this or something like it. Spray multiple times if you're using a lot of ink.

edit: tl;dr: if you're using gloss or vinyl use acrylic coating.

u/SkillfulApple · 1 pointr/smashbros

Maybe something like this could help. At least that's what I would buy. All of the wood varnish I would know needs to be applied with a brush, I don't know if yours is the same way. A spray coating like this will make it super easy to not have drips and get a perfect even coating.

u/crua9 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

>3D prints aren't typically water-tight

I didn't know what.

Wouldn't clear coat work as well? Something like

I kinda want to make it easy to deal with since I would like to sell some. Part of the reason why I'm making a bunch of models now is because I'm looking at having a $800 printer. I would like to offset that cost and the cost of materials even if it takes a while

u/Latentk · 1 pointr/discgolf

If she makes it a semi hobby you may want to test a few products as it probably depends on the disc and plastic used.

Of the several I looked up, something like this may be a good bet

It's relatively cheap and acrylic is great as it should prevent nearly everything minus perhaps sun bleaching. It also should be hair thin also making these discs tournament legal.

u/lilyofyosemite · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I have a bunch of F21 jewelry I like. If you're worried about it tarnishing you can use a clear spray, which helps protect the finish. I also love the earrings I got at Gap Outlet, though I'm not sure they have them online.

u/Elise_Grimwald · 1 pointr/cosplay

I have been using mod podge, so that part is good. I haven't been watering it down, though--does that really have any effect on anything?
And as for clear coat, you all mean this, right?
basically, anyway. I am stupid not to just have figured that out earlier, lol. >_<;. This stuff won't eat my foam, since it has been primed, right?
And I have another question, pertaining to Plasti-Dip:
Can I use regular acrylics on it, and can I apply it OVER mod podge? I have been mod podging everything right now, but I would like to try Plasti-Dip for my elbow armor/over elbow armor, shoe armor, and 'corset' (the armor looks like a corset), so they don't break. Those are the foam pieces I am the most concerned about, because they look like they'd be the most fragile. I have also already put news paper over the elbow piece (there were some areas I needed to fix, so I fixed them, and am using the paper to hide it), and will that work, with the plasti-dip? That is also mod podged, too. Also, does the clear plasti-dip work as well as the other colors? Every video I see uses black, so I thought I'd ask, before buying it.
Also, from what I understand, plasti-dip needs a respirator to be used. I get that. But if I go outside with my work, even if I have one, will the smell get into the house? My mom has respiratory issues, and I am kind of afraid of the smell seeping through the walls because of that.

u/isaacmorton · 1 pointr/DIEMs

It looks similar to what I’ve used before. Just be sure it’s an acrylic paint and not urethane-not good to put certain chemicals in your ears :)

Here’s a link to one I’ve used:
Krylon K01303A07 Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray, 6 Ounce

I’m not sure why, but when I did the spray acrylic, sometimes in about a month it would “glaze” or something - like it seemed like it was separating from the IEM. It might work temporarily, or it might work forever. Hard to say. Low risk to try though!

u/disgustipated · 1 pointr/Guitar

Make a test piece first. Lacquers are typically "hot" paints and it might kill the ink in the signature and make it run. If you can get hold of a similar pen and a piece of plastic or laminate similar to the pickguard, run a test first. Write something on it, let the ink thoroughly dry, the try the clearcoat.

Also, there are different types of clear - matte and gloss.

Best bet might be to go with something like this that's used in photography and art to preserve images and paintings.

u/MCubb · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh I've got a great theme!

Things to huff!

*** I, in no way, condone or suggest the huffing of anything other than air or perhaps the occasional oxygen bar. I do, however, completely condone and suggest the use of shiny spray to seal and make-perfect all works of art pertaining to the use of paints!

u/enginxer · 1 pointr/Gameboy

probably just an assload of crystal clear acrylic paint. I have this and it works great.

u/JaxenGrey · 1 pointr/pics

Rustoleum "Clear Coat" is what I use if I've sharpied art onto things, but usually they don't have a glossy finish like a guitar.

It looks like there is a gloss version but I don't know exactly how glossy it is; you'd want to test it on a similar surface before trying it on your project.

u/Friendly_Commissar · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Like aura_enchanted said, you won't need to mix it with anything. If you already have the Agathrax Earth, then that's fine, but if you're going to order it, actually order this instead. It's much closer to the old Devlan Mud than the new Agathrax Earth is. Edit to Add: Here's a great review/tutorial on using Secret Weapon Washes, look at the example given of the Skaven Clanrat -- that's what I want you to do to this model. You'll be amazed at the results.

And yes, the stuff you linked to is the stuff. You can also use Army Painter's Matte Anti-Shine. If you want the paint to last a long time, spray with a gloss sealer first. But the last step when you finish a model, especially if you wash it, is to spray a light coating of anti-shine. It's amazing how much it improves miniatures and makes them look more realistic.

u/afyaff · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

It is not automotive. It's 2x clear coat. Gloss.

Does it matter?

u/ChibLeader · 1 pointr/surfing

You want one that is glossy otherwise your board will be rough to the touch especially on a bare belly. I used this and it worked well.

u/bowei006 · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/itsgottabereal · 1 pointr/metalworking

They have UV resistant clear coat here

u/motobusa · 1 pointr/chastity

How often does she unlock you? If it's not real frequent, you can use a clear spray (clear coat paint) like this and reapply periodically

u/VoirenTea · 1 pointr/tea

I'd be dubious about the UV resistant paints, but here are a few: (cheap) (expensive) - this one actually says how much it filters.

If you want to go opaque and have blackboard paint for writing on, there is this one:

I've used it on a large glass lid so far, did two layers, and am going to be using it on some smaller jars.

(But you don't really need blackboard paint if you want to write on them with liquid chalk markers, because they'll write on glass and glossy surfaces anyway).

u/monkeyfunky · 1 pointr/IDAP

After some research I've been spraying my works with a UV protectant spray.

u/paross · 1 pointr/retrogaming

/u/ghostopera You might consider a light spray of UV Protectant Clear Coat, so you don't have to bleach it again.

u/jalapenobutt · 1 pointr/Harley

To add to this suggestion, this paint works well:

u/raetherx · 1 pointr/Harley

Seconded (thirded?). I bought a can of high heat paint off amazon for a rebuild that I ended up letting a buddy use on his Sporty's pipes. disassemble the whole shebang and tape over the ends, paint it on a nice day, let it totally dry. This stuff goes on almost like primer so it didn't need much prep work either.

u/Xx_demiurge_xX · 1 pointr/arcade

I have used this on restores. Since you are working on new stock, two coats would work. Use an orbital sander 120, 220, and then 320 grit discs.

u/kasperr · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Curious your bondo workflow. Seems like you can lose a lot of detail . Have you considered using 2-3 coats of this Primer Filler.

u/Nexustar · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Capillary issue hadn't occurred to me before, but it makes sense. But if you are going to acylic matte prime it anyway, I guess trying to fill those layer gaps first is a step worth taking.

Something like a filler-primer:

u/SilverIceDragon · 1 pointr/cosplay

I've used both this and this. I prefer the DupliColor because the Rustoleum has a stronger smell. You also need to be careful with the Rustoleum. Whenever I start a new can, it tends to spit blobs of gunk for the first few seconds.

u/LazerSpartanChief · 1 pointr/3Dprinting This is the one I used, hopefully its not too much more expensive but it was $4.70 for me.

u/TurningItIntoASnake · 1 pointr/Kirby

Thanks! I printed him with PLA filament and then did a couple of coats of this filler primer

Did a lot of sanding with different level grit sandpaper to smooth him out and then once it was all done I started painting him with acrylic paints :)

u/7x13 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Probably this.

But can't vouch for it since I've never used it. Should be available at Wal-Mart and Home Depot stores which are more common than hobby shops.

u/IamAlgy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm desperately looking for affordable flat/gloss top coat alternatives to MrHobby.
Does anyone know what type of paint this is? I can never find out whether it is Acrylic, Lacquer or enamel.
KRYLON Diversified Brands K01311007 Matte Finish Aerosol Paint 11 oz, Satin

u/Stoddd · 1 pointr/Customsneakers

I'm not sure for athletic shoes what to paint with I'd say experiment and see what works, maybe leather paints would work because its good for flexing (I could be wrong I'm not the best) but for finishing use Krylon matte finisher that should do it.

u/homo-summus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?

u/marctyme · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

For Testors, is this the product you use? It’s what comes up when I search Dullcote

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat

2. From your description it sounds like you paint the Quickshade on with old brushes as opposed to full on “dipping” the model in the Quickshade which is what is is shown in the guide. This is just for control/reduces amount I’m assuming? Is dipping the mini straight in there too much?

3. I havent had too many issues with mold lines (fingers crossed) thus far, what bothers me is slight gaps, like on the breast/collar bones of my hexwraiths mounts. Would you recommend a sliver of green stuff (haven’t touched it yet) or something for this? I could just be a sloppy gluer but in my experience sometimes these gaps seem unavoidable. Thoughts?

4. It’s funny you mention the palette, I lurked for awhile before jumping in with models and paints and so a wet palette was one of the first this i tried and didn’t use the right materials and it was too thin and so had to do more work/coats than necessary and ended up with not great results anyway :( it’s more correct now. Not perfect but better.

5. I’m pretty well through beating up my first set of brush so I think I’m ready to re-up. I think I’ll go for a few nice detail brushes and a cheaper utility set elsewhere, so if you have any recommendations, lemme know!

6. If I want bases for certain models or to kitbash some graveyard markers, where should I pick those up? eBay is full of knock offs that look untrustworthy or wouldn’t look right. Do you just get them straight from GW?

7. On that same subject, I want a dark if not black resident evil/silent hill style moonlight graveyard basing for my models, Any leads where I could find materials for this? I don’t want the typical tufts of grass or snow or rubble I see elsewhere.

Thanks again!

Edit: bad at words

u/Kremak · 1 pointr/40k

What could also be done to reduce the shiny effect on the nids would be to hit it with a matte varnish like this

u/tarmogoyf · 1 pointr/Tau40K

IDK if Citadel makes one specifically, I'm sure they do, but like a lot of their products, you're often better off getting a different brand that's just as good quality (and frequently better) as well as being cheaper.


What I personally use is Testors clear:


You don't have to use a lot, just enough to get an even coat over the whole miniature. Be sure to spray this outside or in a well-ventilated area. Also, don't forget that when you're done coating your models, to hold the spray can upside down and spray the excess for a couple seconds until it's just spraying the medium -- that way it clears out the spray mechanism. If you don't, it'll be clogged up next time you go to use it. This is true for all kinds of spray cans, including primers -- it's a common rookie mistake, so just mentioning it in case you haven't worked with this stuff yet.

u/mastaberg · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

You can put a matte varnish on if you'd like. I don't usually because the paint holds up pretty good if you treat it well. If you do a varnish for the whole model definitely go matte to maintain the look. Only use a rattle can version. I've used the tester's one a lot:

u/Ive_Defected · 1 pointr/minipainting

Testors dullcoate

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz

u/Man_Fried · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This stuff is the best. Goes on smooth is cheap and easy to use.

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz

u/Donnchaidh · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I've been using a clear coat from Testors.

Seems to do the job just fine. I'll use a gloss medium on things like canopies after the clear coat is full cured.

u/tug_boat_captain · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use Vallejo brush on primer, but I use the grey color. Here is a link. It's a debate on here whether or not their "White Primer" is actually primer, or if it's just the color of their paint. I've heard different things from different people but never used it myself. Also, white tends to be a hard color to get even coverage with, so that might be your problem as well.

As far as your glossy problem, you could always hit your minis with some Testors Aerosol Enamel Paint 3oz-Dullcote Lacquer. This seems to be the preferred spray matte. If you want a brush on matte varnish, I have had good results with the Vallejo matte varnish. I haven't used anything else. Hope this helps!

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Did you use Army Apinter Quickshade? Maybe a little lighter with it next time. Otherwise I'd say hit them with some matte varnish to lower that gloss a little and you're good.

I recommend this...

u/Kelevradog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ok so is this an enamell or a lacquer it says both on the page? And will this make gundam panel markers run?

u/radiokungfu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi, would this work as topcoat?

u/ShinReska · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thank you! The final coat was a Testors Spray Lacquer, Dull Coat. Amazon Link

u/theheavilyarmedclown · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use this and it dries matte.

u/Rdddss · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/pattypies · 1 pointr/weddingplanning

It's a neat look. Rustoleum's spray is called Mirror Effect, and Krylon's is called Looking Glass. I haven't tried either of them, yet, but they seem to have similar reviews.

u/makelly2 · 1 pointr/Multicopter


Definitely a phantom.

I'd been using a piece of corrugated plastic as a landing pad, but wanted something that would reflect the phantom's leds. I had a piece of poly-carbonate around and some mirror paint, so I decided to give that shot. Turned out well. Now I just need to get some plastidip to prevent any more scratches on the non-mirrored side.

u/Monkey_Deee_Luffy · 1 pointr/buildapc

This build will be able to play anything at 1080p 60fps high settings:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $79.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card | $216.89 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $605.05
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $595.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 00:58 EDT-0400 |

If you want 4k 60fps high settings, you're going to have to significantly increase your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card | $514.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $72.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1148.69
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1138.69
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 01:01 EDT-0400 |

Edit: Here is the stuff you'll need to paint your case orange:

u/ruffianopatsu · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yeah, I couldn't be much happier with how it turned out. Watch the spray tip on the Montana paint, mine gummed up a bit and caused a little blob on the right controller (which was my first/test one).




u/GOpencyprep · 0 pointsr/IDAP

Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.

I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.

When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.

You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck

Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.

Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.

u/ligglo · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

u/zNzN · -8 pointsr/DIY

That sucks. Get some good paint to repair it and it shouldn't happen again.