Best line conditioners according to redditors
We found 58 Reddit comments discussing the best line conditioners. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 58 Reddit comments discussing the best line conditioners. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Been gigging for nearly 35 years. I’ve gone from simple 2 pedal wha and dirt box setups to refrigerator sized rack systems, multi-amp setups and everything in between. I’m finally happy.
I swap out drive pedals once in a while depending on the gig, guitar and amp combo. But the board is pretty settled.
Case by “NYC Pedalboards”. Top row is on a shelf with Voodoo Pedal Power underneath.
5 gain stages using the “one control.” Color tape so I can step accurately in the heat of battle.
Chain:
Vox Wha > Boss Auto Wha > MXR Phase 95 > One Controle:
Ch 1: Clean - SP comp.
Ch 2: Clean Lead - SP comp. > Attenuator > Keeley Blues Driver
Ch 3: Blues Lead - BB Preamp
Ch 4: Crunch - MXR Super Badass
CH 5: “Take the Gloves Off Lead” - JHS A.T.
Tuner Out: Boss TU3
> EP Boost > Amp
Effects Loop: Boss CE-2 > T.C.E Flashback.
Assorted Guitars: Various Strats, Teles, PRS’s, Parkers, a few Ibanez and others…
Assorted Amps: Boogie MK 3, Peavey JSX, Peavey Tripple X, THD Bi-Valve 30, Bugera and others...
EDIT: Not pictured is a Tripp Lite Line Conditioner and Voltage Regulator. The Furmann stuff is way over priced so I purchased one used for Industrial Server Rack Systems. No matter where I plug in I have clean, safe, consistent power. Even if I'm on the same circuit as an Ice Machine or Air Conditioner. My power is clean and my Tube amps love me for it. And my chain has almost zero noise. I can't recommend it enough. If you perform with Tube amps you need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000514M8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First, thank yo ufor the indepth and helpful reply. I appreciate you taking your time to write that out.
My generator has already killed a fridge, the last time I had to use it (but it was a slow death, after 2 weeks of running off generator), so I dont know if its out of voltage spec or if the power is just really really dirty otherwise.
I've been looking at line conditioners, ones that can handle up to 2400w, so run two fridges and some smaller things (a fan or two, maybe a TV) but some of the reviews I've seen on the ones that looked good state they have dont deal with cleaning up the sinewave. ( Example Here ), I figured that would be good otherwise as long as I staggered the fridges being plugged in so they didnt draw their peak startup at the same time, with maybe room for a fan.
If you could point me in a direction of a good device for this, I would be immensely grateful.
I have tried to educate myself on this subject to fill holes in my knowledge, but at this moment it is rather esoteric and incomprehensible to me.
Do you rent or own? If you own call up an electrician. If you rent you need to bug your landlord. Running that many high amperage appliances off of a single circuit seems like a good way to start a fire. Yes a fire. Sounds like your breaker isn't working because you're pulling way more than 20 amps. I would bet that you have a bad breaker or a bad panel http://www.ismypanelsafe.com/. Take a picture of your electrical panel and identify the breaker going to your room. Also if the breaker is hot that's a bad sign. I would stop using the outlets on that breaker ASAP till someone can look it.
Side note that a line conditioner can help reduce voltage dips when a motor starts, laser printer turns on, etc; anything that has a short but high current draw. In your case the breaker should trip if the lights are getting that dimm & keyboards stop working correctly; this sounds like too many amps going through the wire and causing the voltage to drop, causing more amps to be drawn in order to meet the wattage requirement. It's a bad situation that can lead to a fire fairly quickly as it cascades; the hotter a wire gets the less power it can handle causing it to heat up more.
The fluctuating voltage can also damage your equipment. Using something like this can limit damage when high or low voltage is seen http://www.amazon.com/3600-Watts-Conditioner-Surge-Protector/dp/B00F0OIVRA. But in your case you need a pro to look at this first before you do anything else.
Call someone!
I just got some Furman power conditioners from Amazon for $55ish. I used one on a high-end stereo and one for my tube amps. It cut a bunch of noise and the electronics will be happier with clean, consistent juice. Check into a power conditioner.
Furman Power Conditioner, Silver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009GI65Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
so, you got a suggestion of a surge protector. which is always a good idea; they can't hurt in any way.
but because you mention "unstable" electricity and high voltages, not lightning, i'm afraid surges might not be your problem/concern. rather, you're some place where the power grid should run at (for instance) 120V, but is occasionally running at 130V or 140V (or worse?!).
is that the case?
if so:
if you can't interpret what is written on the back, please post a picture here and i'll look at it.
if your power adapter can't tolerate the voltages your country is producing, you've got two options.
neither option will negatively impact the quality of your piano's sound.
The dips in power won't hurt anything, it will just shutdown. The surges are what cause damage, especially in devices without regulated power supplies.
A UPS doesn't do anything until the wall power goes out completely, unless you get a line active UPS, which costs significantly more.
A power conditioner will help with correcting low or high voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA
The dimming happens because of an extremely high load. AC units have a compressor with two coil windings, one for startup and another for continuous running. A worn out startup coil is especially bad, a spike that might normally be a couple dozen amps would become 100+.
A line conditioner is a great thing to have in front of any electronic device you care about, but it's not enough to overcome the brownouts and power outages you describe. I agree with SD456 that a small UPS would do the trick.
The reason why you should care is because brownouts cause stress to electronic components. Never use your PS4 during a power event like a brownout or thunderstorm, unless it's hooked up to a UPS.
Get a power conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?adgrpid=51549561970&hvadid=274839550986&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032475&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=15334482226003415115&hvtargid=kwd-10833451&keywords=power+conditioner&qid=1550870256&s=gateway&sr=8-15&tag=hydsma-20
Try a different outlet/circuit, or try taking the PC to a friend's house. I've had dirty power cause similar issues and had to get a power conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-AC-215A-Conditioner-Auto-Resetting-Protection/dp/B003PJ6NPO/
Note that a UPS would also give similar benefits with the added batter backup benefit. Please don't rush out to get a UPS before verifying if it's the power source or something else.
Also as /u/kester76a mentioned, if you have the case open with a fan blowing on it, does it stay up longer AND take less time to power on again?
Lastly, what does the Windows Event Viewer say right before the shutdown? https://www.howtogeek.com/123646/htg-explains-what-the-windows-event-viewer-is-and-how-you-can-use-it/
I went to my local chain thrift for my yearly visit and found a brand new APC J25B for $15 bucks half off. It was brand new, but me and my brother only knew to buy it as our friend with a McIntosh has one in his setup. My Sherwood S-8900 doesn't exactly need an APC, but just wanted to throw out my luckily thrift store find on my only visit of the year.
Not sure...I'd be interested to see if something like this would achieve similar results to a nice UPS.
I will say for UPS's, I've been pretty happy with mine...I think it's like $40 for a new battery every 3-4 years or so.
One of these mounted to your back rack or stored in the side compartment when not in use, and one of these to ensure clean power, and you would be rocking and rolling! It's what i used to use back in the day when I was driving.
It's pretty normal I think. Even the 120's can fluctuate. It wouldn't hurt to have a line conditioner (good brands like Tripp-Lite we use at work also). The price isn't terrible though to maintain a steady voltage IMO is worth it: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LR2000-Conditioner-2000W/dp/B00007FHDI
The cables came, plugged them in and the music (gimme 20 dollars by Ron Brownz) still sounds awful... $30,000 dollars down the drain. However not all hope is lost, I realized the problem is with the AC power from the ancient, near-meltdown nuclear power plant built alongside my mansion in 2012. The power is not clean enough to make my music listenable.
Power conditioners solve this. I bought five of these, hopefully their combined strength will finally let me enjoy my music. Also got some audioquest AC cables to connect them all, gotta love that halemopic noise shielding.
P.S. I plugged the audioquest into my Beets but they didn't taste any better. Elaborate, OP?
The thing with surge protectors is it doesn't have any voltage regulation circuitry, I use this one Belkin PureAV Home Theater Power Console -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001541R5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_AYCFwbTH66BWT
Try a power conditioner like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5G4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also when I used to have a 390X (similar power draw to a 290) I had to upgrade from a 600 watt PSU to a 750 watt PSU to run it stably. Probably not needed but for my particular system it worked better.
Currently using this cheap 9-outlet power conditioner.
Will likely get another one shortly, as I use around 16 outlets.
Forget the old fashioned surge protectors. Get one of these babies.
I'm amazed I don't see more power conditioners in PC gaming setups. It's a great mid ground between a regular surge protector and a UPS. The strip I use on my rig is a PST-6
Zeos has a video where he used an APC filter and it sorted out a ground loop issue, this one is $55, this one is $135.
Found it on US Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXQ68S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_mG8QAbCV22R86
If US Amazon doesn't work, US eBay has a bunch of them from various sellers.
That's very interesting, I haven't played any games in a very long time so I never tested to see if my cpu starts to downclock randomly while gaming. Unfortunately I still haven't figured out what's wrong with my PC, I can return my motherboard for testing but if it turns out not to be the problem then I'll have to pay for return shipping so I decided not to. Instead, I'll just be keeping my SSD, CPU, and RAM and using them in a new build. I've talked to many tech experts and they all agree there's literally so many things that could be wrong with my PC.
How long have you had your PC for? When I built my PC it ran great for six months straight, not a problem in the world with it, the problem that I'm having didn't happen until 6 months later out of the blue one day. There could be a reason for this, and that reason is something I just recently discovered and most people don't know about, dirty power/electricity. And for some reason there's not much information out there about it. But it's definitely a thing, how I found out about it was watching a 980 Ti review from Dave Dugdale. He was talking about a problem he has with his PC, a blue screen of death issue, it was an on and off problem similar to mine, and it got worse for him as time went on. He figured out what it was and stated it was because of dirty power in his office, so he put a UPS on the machine to fix it. What's dirty power? I'm really not an expert on it but from my understanding, dirty power is used to describe when the power source fluctuates in Voltage for some reason. And what's a UPS that he used to fix it his PC? Well not only is it a back up for when the power goes out, but when the power is on (some) UPS's will have Automatic Voltage Regulation which will instantly correct incoming power to what your device/PC needs.
I'm sure you know who Linus is from LinusTechTips, he's talked about this in the past on a couple different videos. I can link you to the video if you'd like. He stated himself and I quote- "The slight fluctuations that happen on a daily basis or even an hourly basis can overtime cause damage to your computer that you have plugged directly into the wall."
This is why when I build my next PC I will definitely be getting a UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation or something like this- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000512LA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00009RA5Z&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0CEYDKXVBKPBR07XSESM
Get one of these. It has isolated power filter banks and is cheaper than an electrician. I used to have issues when running an inverter in my car(Only when car is running). Things like my laptop charger would make a ridiculous amount of noise but then I put one of these after the inverter and had no problems afterwards.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NTJ2QQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd swap out the breaker but the only other way I can suggest is a very good filter or an isolation (NOT Step Up Down) transformer.
Warning! If the filter says it protects humans from EM radiation or anything else, don't buy it. It's bullshit.
Your filter needs to be heavy in weight and contain a dual winding choke minimum.
This one might do the job but I'd still have questions.
I wouldn't try battery UPS.
I have just been looking at power conditioners but stuggling to find ones that will work in the uk as we use 230 V over the US 120 V. Do you have any you reccomend that 230 V will work? This one here http://www.amazon.com/PCO850-Conditioner-Mountable-Protector-Outlets/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453933833&sr=8-1&keywords=Pyle+power+conditioner is what I presume you mean but it says its not switchable so it won't work with 230 V
Yeah I'm using this power supply with current conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5G4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I'm using a Walrus Audio Phoenix isolated pedal power supply (plugged into the above power supply).
I even ordered a Friedman Buffer Bay to see if that would help - no dice.
I wanted to chalk it up to something weird about the power in my house (it is an older house with aluminum wiring), but my Blackstar Artist 30 is dead quiet, so I've just been throwing the pedals I want in the loop in that and using it alongside the Orange as a wet/dry configuration.
Thanks for the tip, though.
An UPS would provide you with greater protection from power loss and surges compared to surge protectors, which only deal with just power surges. If you live in an area where power outages or lightning storms are common then an UPS would be a worthy purchase to protect your equipment. In the unfortunate event of a lightning strike, the UPS would sacrifice itself to save whatever is plugged into it whereas a surge protector could only clamp the energy down to a certain amount.
I do not own a UPS so i can't offer any specifics but I have specifically an APC and Tripplite surge protector. Look up products from those to brands from $20+ range and read the reviews. These two companies also sell UPS too
unfortunately, surge protectors do not protect against voltage fluctuations.
surge protectors will suppress a surge (spike) in voltage, but they do not have any means of providing power to even out drops in voltage. that requires a power conditioner. a good power conditioner will also act as a surge protector, but in most applications people will put a surge protector before their power conditioner, since a power conditioner is usually ~$200 and a good surge protector is $50
https://www.techopedia.com/definition/1758/surge-protector
https://www.techopedia.com/definition/1750/power-conditioner
either way, i don't think it's needed. but if you will be more comfortable, it won't hurt anything to add one :)
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC2400-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000514OG?
i definitely don't think you'd need both a surge protector and a power conditioner for your generator power.
The line filtering might help, you don't need to buy a full UPS to get it, you can have it as a separate device like this http://www.amazon.com/APC-C20B-Outlet-Power-Filter/dp/B00NTJ2QQU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463645414&sr=8-3&keywords=power+filter
if one of these on the television doesn't fix it, you'll be needing a new hdmi cord with stronger shielding.
https://www.amazon.com/PDU-Power-Strip-Surge-Protector/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z0M13YVHTC8EM4A698D5
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i'd say use it on the fridge, but the peak amperage when the compressor kicks on usually causes a quick surge more than 15 amps.
You see anything cheap? All the A/C conditioners appear to be quite expensive.
This one is 70 bucks, but claims to regulate the voltage and clean up noise: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LS606M-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B00006B83G
It feels like you would at best buy one and run extension cords to the light houses.
>line conditioner
I found this line conditioner which is ok cheap. Maybe this would be better?
https://www.amazon.com/PDU-Power-Strip-Surge-Protector/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=lp_10967061_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1564108537&sr=1-1
Computers dying within two years suggest that there is something else going on. I would suspect that you have power issues, excessive heat or other issue. I would strongly suggest that you get a line conditioner for your next computer. This is different than a surge-suppressor or a UPS. Surge-suppressors don't offer much protection. A UPS is large, heavy, expensive and has to have the batteries replaced.
This TrippLite will protect everything you can plug into a normal 15amp house circuit and will last a long time without needing maintenance.
Tried it, same problem. I ran an extension cable cable into my Home Theater Power Console and the noise eliminated. (At high volumes I can still hear static though). This is if I plug the speakers through the usb sound card, if I plug the speakers directly into the computer, I still get the static.
> line conditioner
Huh?like.....a surge protector...i dont understand...i mean i get power fluctuations and surges and stuff but i always thought that what surge protectors were for....then i hear "line conditioner" and https://www.amazon.com/Furman-AC-215A-Conditioner-Auto-Resetting-Protection/dp/B003PJ6NPO/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465866095&sr=1-6 then this and im more confuse than i was when i started.
I've tried different places with the house, and I still end up with a small baseline hum. I was thinking of maybe investing in one of these
I've been researching Power Conditioners, and there are a lot of differing opinions out there. I'm wondering if anyone here has an idea if it would be worth it to purchase something along these lines in order to improve my sound quality and/or protection, and if so, which one would be best. Thanks!
Furman
Nady
Pyle
I've got a Sony Bravia TV that has known board failure issues, so I bought a Tripp Lite LC1200 for my entertainment center. 1200w / 12A which should be more than enough for the flat screen and surround sound system draw. That, and a good surge protector, and I think I'm good. Plus, I think I'm accomplishing the same thing as the more pricey brands, at a discounted cost.
http://www.amazon.com/TRIPP-CONDITIONER-LC-1200-Output/dp/B0071U1376
Could definitely be a short somewhere but when I experience this kind of weirdness it's always been dirty power. Over time I'd notice multiple devices in the room acting up, took a while to put it together. Dirty power in the system can be amplified by components. Could also be your PSU.
I recently put my projector onto a pure sine wave UPS and it fixed a HDMI studder bug that plagued me for years (I thought it was an issue with my receiver).
If this is your issue, you need more than just a surge protector. You need a line conditioner or a UPS with AVR support (3-10x price). A power conditioner won't keep you online but it will clean noise from it and provide surge protection.
Here is a relatively cheap conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA
Well every power conditioner of these sort already have an On/Off switch. I just want to convert a box like this (https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LCR2400-Conditioner-12-Feet/dp/B0000514M8) so that it's hard wired into the power line that feeds the lights and power outlets in the room.
Power Line Conditioner if you live in an area with storms, brownouts, line noise or crappy electricity (I am looking at you Austin Energy).
Something I never think of until it clicks.
I write to you from Chile
Hi, I need to talk to you. I am experiencing a problem like yours with my PC.
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/9nfnd6/weirdest_issue_ive_faced_mouse_sensitivity/
I wanted to ask you more about the issue and how to solve this I have more than 1 year with the problem
https://www.amazon.es/Furman-M-10-X-Acondicionador-energ%C3%ADa/dp/B001ICVXFA
do you recommend buying that?
Thanks.
You said the static is present even when disconnected from the interface, what if you disconnect the audio cables from the speaker so only power is connected, still noise?
EDIT: If there is still noise with nothing connected I'd look into getting one of these.
I personally use them and they are awesome. Also, what are your monitor levels set at? (Knob on the back)
https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Reference-MKII-PowerCenter-Circuitry/dp/B000AYDQB6