Best nut inserts according to redditors
We found 21 Reddit comments discussing the best nut inserts. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 21 Reddit comments discussing the best nut inserts. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Everybody is bad-mouthing it but nobody is offering advice.
You can salvage this if you lay a piece of 3/8" over the top of the control board and undermount the joysticks. Then use some of these to undermount the joysticks. They will show through the top though, so get yourself some spray adhesive and some laminate/melamine to cover the top of it.
Secondly, the piece that your monitor is mounted to and that (what appears to be) an audio controller... Redo it and this time take your time and use measurements and a template.
Cardboard is your friend. Use it to template things with exact measurements. Use a ruler, a straight edge, and a nice pointy pencil.
You've got this!
Nice! I left the middle parts solid and used a cordless drill to make the holes. I figured since I'll never take them apart, they won't become stripped. I've also seen serrated brass nuts pressed/melted in with a soldering iron. It creates a durable threaded hole:
M3x5mm(L)-5mm(OD) Metric Threaded Brass Knurl Round Insert Nuts 100pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-S2-BbYAV507F
The GPU is simply mounted to the wood with a screw like it would be in a case, there's a little support that I covered with silicone on the back end.
For the motherboard I used these and these.
Get some threaded inserts ( like these ) so you don't break the wood if they get moved
I've been using these: Glarks 370Pcs M2 M3 M4 M5 Female Thread Knurled Brass Threaded Insert Embedment Nut Assortment Kit for 3D Printing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L96KVP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y9eZDb0HFEHM9
I suspect they're not as resistant to shear as the McMaster ones, but they're way over spec for anything I've needed, and they're all nicely threaded. I've also fused a bit of filament inside when I've needed them to be locking nuts.
I completely lied without intension. I looked back at my amazon order and realized that its 5/16. Still plenty for the task bc I zig zagged them but nowhere near 5/8"! Thanks for catching that. This is where I got them from
If you're doing docker why not k8s? :)
Or look at your other options. Ubuntu is great, but there are a few OSs particularly for docker containers like rancheros that will reduce overhead and streamline deployment.
And I mod a lot of my gear. I would consider stringing them on a couple rods or building a tower. The rods would be nice because you could hang them in a rack :).
Edit: by rods I mean a couple of these guys cut to length (also available shorter and cheaper, but the are 2x rack length). Just get some matching nuts and bam, instant rack. If you want a non-rack form factor something else may better allow for swapping out parts and mounting fans. If rack mount, hang that from a shelf, load the shelf with psus. Just use 80mm (not 120) coolers to maximize packing :)
No problem!
It's a threaded wood insert screw. Something like these.
E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Zinc, Hex-Flanged, 5/16"-18 Internal Threads, 25mm Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WC8TV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HGuEDbNCDTXEB
40pcs 1/4"-20 Furniture Screw in Nut Threaded Insert Nutsert for Wood Furniture Connector 15mm Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6HKK45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dHuEDbBKV3F74
The ones you have in those legs are screwed in with an Allen wrench.
What you're talking about is called a cam fitting or a cam lock: http://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a12010500ux0151-Furniture-Fitting-Pre-inserted/dp/B00880QVTS
Those types of "joinery" methods are not very strong. All my ikea furniture is now very loose and racks around like crazy.
You would be much better off screwing it with a countersunk hole and covering up the screws by glue a decorative wood veneer or just a thin piece of wood as an accent or something.
You could also consider pocket holes and use plugs to fill and finish the holes.
>Does't seem sturdy enough if I wanna put my feet up :(
If it's made from chipboard / particle board you probably wouldn't want to do that anyway :-) But if you made it from plywood it would be plenty strong enough.
Those metal locking nuts /u/doc_lock is describing are actually quite secure, but they do favour easy disassembly over strength. This is what they look like, along with their associated bolt.
Sure thing!
A lot of these were purchased on Amazon for this build, but I do a lot of electronics tinkering, and I usually grab this stuff from Aliexpress and just wait the 3-6 weeks for it to arrive in the US. I had one Pro Micro on hand, but needed two, so I just got the 3 pack from the Amazon seller below:
Pro Micros
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCXMBOU
Bumpons
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACPT2LU
M3 Inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY
Female Micro USB Breakout Boards
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183KF7TM
RJ9 Adapter Kit (these can be gotten cheaper, but I needed them fast)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HXNW3F
RJ9 Coiled Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J83H83
Silicone Hookup Wire (good looking and easy to work with)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RD76QD
Female Headers (just snap off and sand the broken edges)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B01DLX6RSQ/
I've found them a bit hit and miss, I used them on drawer handles, which may not be the ideal use case. One of 5 has already come loose. I tried to fix by shoving PLA fibres after it and melting a rim around, but no joy.
The surface area of the grip part is very small on the ones I have, and also the lines down the edge run lengthways, where if they have been crossways they'd have been like knurling adding some grip.
I got mine on amazon and ebay. https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Insert-100pcs/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539132205&sr=8-6&keywords=threaded+inserts
I've started to (where possible) build little enclosures for nuts instead. It's a lot more hassle and less fun.
Any tips on the inserts welcomed (I bought a bloody load of them)
use threaded inserts instead of trying to thread into the print it's self. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just look on Amazon for threaded inserts in what ever size you want. I am using the ones I posted along with nylon screwed so I'm not conducting electricity from what ever I am fastening down. I do have stainless steel ones I use too for parts that need a stronger fastener.
Check out this post from 3Dhubs on threaded inserts: http://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners
Here are some on Amazon, Prime-eligible. I'll probably get a larger batch too, but these are relatively cheap to play with and they get here fast. :-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3663683
I used a threaded insert instead of just screwing into the plastic.
I get them on amazon.
Lock in screws is how I did this for a few pieces these the are the ones I used: 40Pcs Anwenk 1/4"-20 x 15mm Furniture Screw in Nut Threaded Wood Inserts Bolt Fastener Connector Hex Socket Drive for Wood Furniture Assortment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HR63VF5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SN4OCb2CHT01F
My current tap handles are wooden children's alphabet blocks from a flea market with these inserted.
Anything can be a tap handle if you can drill a hole in it to insert those.
you could do that or use 3/8" threaded inserts embedded from underneath the ply. Then when you want to use the saw just drop bolts and washers through the feet into the inserts.
Following up on the original comment... Don't use these. They're damn near impossible to get perpendicular to the surface of the wood and they're way more expensive than blind nuts.