(Part 3) Best powersports chains & accessories according to redditors

From my Google doc:

• gsxr front end
  
• protek ll-45 lowering links (at stock height, from previous owner)
  
• delkevic 320mm ss tri-oval slip-on exhaust (w/o baffle)
  
• vortex v3 keyless gas cap
  
• oem sv tank pad (990D0-16G00-PAD)
  
• generic mirror plug blanks
  
• mzs black shorty levers
  
• yamaha r6 throttle sleeve
  
• speed bleeders f/r
  
• targa fender eliminator
  
• targa mini oval turn signals
  
• sbl ba9s led turn signal bulbs
  
• generic led flasher relay
  
• sbl lsc-100a brake light strobe module
  
• opt7 fluxbeam cree h4 led headlight
  
• vortex steel 520 sprockets 15f/47r (15/45 stock)
  
• rk racing gb520xso chain
  
• svracing captured rear wheel spacer kit
  
• smartmoto dealer mode tool
  
• tps adjustment (set to ~1600 rpm)
  
• sv1000 air snorkel (13891-16G20)

Yes, do the 650r sprocket. Get a cone shaped grinding wheel to slightly flare out the sprocket to fit where the shaft splines taper off, don't just hammer it on as I have seen some do, Also slather the shaft with antizieze or waterproof grease once your test fit is good and a dab of blue locktite on the retainer bolts. The 14t makes it so much more enjoyable and drivable. I used this one. JT Sprockets JTF1307.14 14T Steel Front Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW68E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YAUizbBJWASJM

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

Just swap to a 15T for the front sprocket. It'll reduce those highway RPMs to something a lot more comfortable. Here's how to do it http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_front_sprocket%3F and here is a link to amazon.com for the sprocket http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF516-15-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B0031743MU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406683261&sr=8-1&keywords=JTF+516.15 it is just under 13$.

On my DRZ400E (Stock street legal) I changed the front sprocket from 14T to 15T.

I had to grind the case saver (stops the chain smashing into the case if the chain comes off) so it would fit. Or you could buy an aftermarket case saver.

This is the sprocket I bought($15USD). http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF432-15SC-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B005DUMZX2

While you have the front sprocket off you may as well do the loctite mod http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/

The gearing isn't too high for trail riding for me but I only weigh 65kg so this may not be relevant to you...

This dropped my revs around 500 (from 6000 to 5500rpm) at 100kmh

Any queries I would be happy to answer. I could also tell you about changing the rear sprocket (47T to 43T) if you want.

I just replaced my chain / sprockets. I went with Vortex steel sprockets (15/44) off revzilla, and a RK GB520GXW chain from Amazon. All in I think it was under $140 with 2 day shipping. The chain needs to be cut down to 108 links and don't forget a rivet tool.

Any particular reason you want to stick with 525 vs 520?

> will that speedo/guage cluster work on the gen 1? I've still got the sport cluster on mine, yuck.

I can't say i know the Gen-1 however I do know that TrailTech makes kits for the Gen 1 and they are easy to add.

> did you need to coat the inside of your PVC brake reservoir with something? Once painted, does it look nicer than stock? I think mine is ugly.

I ditched that DIY reservoir after about 3 months, it was just a total eye sore (it was 100% functional though, i didn't coat it, PVC is tough shit.)

I'm now doing this, it's been good for a long while now:

http://i.imgur.com/X7b95dk.jpg

Read more about it here:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/103606-tygon-clear-brake-reservoir-hose.html

The hose/tube is "Tygon 2075" - super chemical resistant.

This solution works really well too, my brakes are no different than before and i can always see the level in there.

> where did you get that chain, how much did it run you?

I'm assuming you're talking about the blue chain:

http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650S-1999-2012-O-Ring-Chain/dp/B0052PPKDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845373&sr=8-1&keywords=525+sv650+chain+blue

They're alright chains, be sure to maintain it though, mine went about 7k miles which isn't really a lot but then again, it's a $60 chain.

I've since moved to this:
http://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-3068-998S-Conversion/dp/B0031BNDRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845455&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+520+chain+conversion

> did you find an HID setup that worked? I'd love a good HID headlight, but haven't researched it yet.

I grabbed this kit

http://www.bkmoto.com/Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Universal%20Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Motorcycle%20HID%20kit

I think at the time he actually had a SV650 kit on the site but i went for the universal because I wasn't sure how it would fit in the LSL Urban headlight assembly/bucket.

As it turns out, it's a lot more simple than it appears, the most difficult part is that the HID bulb is HUGE and you won't be able to install it like a normal bulb- generally you have to remove the face of the headlight (glass/plastic part)- the LSL Urban took about 20 minutes of blasting with a heat gun and prying with a screw driver before it came apart, I installed the HID assembly and glued it all back together with some clear caulk.

Once the main assembly is installed you can put new HID bulbs in through the back the normal way, so it's easy from there on out- that said, i've never had to replace a HID bulb in my 4 years experience (in my car too) with them.

> have you found any good/cheap tank bags, hard or soft?

cyclegear.com, amazon.com, ebay.com, check the forums (svrider.com) too - the one that spent most of my time with was $25 at cycle gear- it was an "Iron Rider" ... simple clear plastic screen and a big zipper around the top, not water proof but it held a lunch/phone/wallet/tool roll pretty easily.

Now i just use a Ogio Mach 3 backpack because looking like a turtle is cool or something.

>how did you remove the dents from your gas tank? How did color matching go?

I wish. No that tank got thrown out as scrap- there was no saving it :) I just snagged a scratch / dent off of ebay that was the same year/color- it had one tiny nick in the top ... 100% functional otherwise. $300.

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

• DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  
• Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  
• Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket
  
  The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:
  
  
• Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  
• Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  
• I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  
• Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  
• Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  
• Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  
• Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)
  
  I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.
  
  Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.
  
  Thanks!

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

Okay, so this is my chain:
http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/suzuki/sv-650-99-08/520-conversion-kit-superlite-rs7-steel-sprocket-set-with-colored-x-ring-chain-13-colors-suzuki-sv650-99-08.html
And here is a clip I found with same day delivery on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-Clip-Type-Connecting/dp/B00230567W?keywords=520+clip+master+link&qid=1537193544&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
It appears this will work?

Installed:

-Trail Tech 752-119 Vapor computer

-FMF PowerCore 4 exhaust

-JD rejet 39mm FCR carb

-Aluminum skid plate

Purchased (will install):

-Kenda K270 (3.25-21 front, 5.10-18 rear)

-JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

-DID 520VX2GB-110 Gold X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

-MCCT, red billet

-Silicone coolant hoses

-FMF PowerBomb header

-Kick Start V162

-2011 DR-Z400S subframe

-2-port USB charger / voltmeter

-Weego JSPT524 Powersports Tether

Need to do:

-Free power mod

-Loctite clutch bolts and stator bolts

Cargo, haven't bought anything here yet:

-PMR rear rack and sissy bar.

Haven't decided between side racks:

-Option 1 - metal looks sturdy but has just 2 mounting points

-Option 2 - great that it attaches around back for extra stability, not sure how many actual mounting points it has

-Option 3 PMR again, I like that they seem to hug the bike well but not sure if metal panniers can be used, or just bags. And in fact these only seem to have 2 mounting points as well... what's the weight capacity on any of these setups if they all only have 2 mounting points?

Still researching:

-SM footpegs or similar wide option

-LED headlight bulb

-Steel brake lines

-Windscreen

-What the hell taillight I have and where to find a flat metal sheet to get my license plate to mount on it, since the existing metal plate is broken

-Ceramic coating for FMF PowerBomb header

-Ceramic wheel bearings link link link. Expensive, but would be neat if price were no object. Will be doing mostly street riding.

-Lithium battery or capacitor - this looks appealing, and ThumperTalk carries a capacitor that would cut down on weight but would mean no electric start. I have a kick start kit though so maybe I want to live without a battery, not sure.

-Iridium CR9EIX plug

-Tool kit in one of those black plastic canisters at the rear of the bike on the left, opposite the exhaust tip

-Seat Concepts seat

-Find passenger pegs & mounts to add to the S subframe

Frivolous but tempting:

link

link

link

link

link

link

Consider the 16 tooth sprocket for your first upgrade. It will require some minor wrenching and a few tools, but almost everyone agrees that the bike should have come from the factory with the 16 tooth front installed. It makes second and first gear much more usable, and the bike better pretty much all around.

edit: instructional video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkibrlgqL_A

Amazon link

My guess would be that the spacer or flange is needed to perfectly align with the rear sprocket. It should be evident enough when you take a look under the cover.

It looks like the Vortex sprocket has it, maybe try that next time?