(Part 2) Best pullers according to redditors

I would use more heat, and employ a bearing puller.

And then I would throw away that bearing and use a new one. I doubt you need to replace the case.

This is a good example of why it's super important to keep the bearing square to the hole and use a proper bearing driver to insert it.

You’re going to want a bearing puller with really slim jaws. Do not pry unless you find a way to leverage off the wheels not the windings. Wd40 won’t help because it is formulated to displace water. Get a penetrant for stuck bolts. Heat would be great but it would probably melt the varnish on the windings.

Here’s what you’re looking for. Thin jaw puller:

amazon link

Source: i do this for a living

Update: link didn’t work. I don’t do that for a living

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

Good job. I know you're finished, but there's a tool for this. It attaches to the end of a slide hammer.

Shankly Rear Axle Bearing Puller, Axle Bearing Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KYKPVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7QP5BbV2DG90N

I bought mine (OTC) from the pawn shop (I work on a fleet of crown vics for a security company). Super easy with this tool.

We have a kitchen cupboard full of Nuun electrolyte tablets because my SO subscribed to them on Amazon and never unsubscribed. I'm looking forward to them being used. They are super great though.

I've been meaning to go through this thread from last year to see what people recommended.

My recomendations are;

A big vacuum insulated growler (why is that the American word for drink bottle?!) to put in your bike basket/pannier so you can have a cold drink after hours of riding around.

This screw top pot of smelly stuff for clearing your sinuses. It's herbs that smell like vix vapor rub and it's great, especially on the playa.

This battery operated personal mister that goes in the cup holder my bike already had.

Pickle flavored candy canes. These didn't even make it to the playa last year. I ate them all within a day of them being delivered.

If you use rebar (like for monkey huts, I don't think lag bolts are really an alternative there) this will be your favorite thing at pack down.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-3905-Reversible-Puller-2-Ton/dp/B000X2566I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542564292&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=small+puller&dpPl=1&dpID=41X7uxBmMQL&ref=plSrch

Cut the head so that it will chuck up in a drill, run it up tight to grab the pad , once it gets enough tension it will run the foot in. Hold the assembly and give it a little more with the drill to grab tighter, then reverse the drill to spin it out, hold the assembly again in reverse to loosen up from the pad.

Bonus is it will be adjustable to different size pads, you can modify it some to stop parts from flipping around once you fine tune the settings.

For cheap and simple you could just get a hitch-mounted winch bracket. Of course it will only pull you backwards not forwards, and depending on your use case you may not be willing to sacrifice your departure angle clearance.

For even more cheap and simple you could just get a basic hand-powered "come-along" puller. Not quite as "manly" as an electric winch but almost as good and about 1/10th the price.

And unlike a cup n cone, you can bring these beauties back to like new every time :) you will however need some way to get the cartridges out and back in squarely, or you can damage the hubshell. A tool like this is the cheap way to remove though they can be pretty finicky. A proper slide-hammer bearing puller can be fairly expensive. Then you can carefully tap the new bearing in with a socket the same size as the outer race of the cartridge (never tap the inner race when installing or you will damage the bearings!), or alternatively shell out some money for a proper bearing drift. Good luck with the overhaul!

Just going to throw this out here.

Pit Posse PP1692 Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Remover

There are many import versions of these, quality is as functional as the MP or other name brands. I actually consider these to be a disposable tool as they will suffer wear over the years. I once had a complete MP set, I now have a import set as the last time i needed to replace the driver handle and 3 arbors, it was just as expensive & got a case out of it.

Generally I have found having the correct size for the bearing makes a big difference. 19mm puller for 19mm bearing....

This is especially true when you last used a say a 20mm to drive out a 24mm(assuming your set skips 21-24). The puller gets splayed out and becomes more difficult to use again on smaller bearings. It also causes more damage on the arbor both in where you drive the wedge and on the portion that contacts the bearing.

Buy a import set, fill in the odd skipped sizes you need and replace as they wear out. For a DIYer, you might wear one or 2 out if you do all your freinds wheels too.

Most shops tend not to put much faith in any repair attempts done by customers, thus they will want to repeat whatever troubleshooting steps you already performed.

While you will only use the tool once, this $16 tool is cheaper than your shop visit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-46950-Relay-Puller-Pliers/dp/B002NR2Z56

and there's the [ahem cough] Amazon return policy.

This is correct. Here's the middle one here:

https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-R-7845-Heavy-Wheel-Puller/dp/B001JT11GI

And the green ones:

https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RP5PIN-Brushed-Aluminum-Assorted/dp/B001JT0H1S

I try to hype the more power puller whenever I can 6000lbs straight line pull. I sometimes use it to uproot small trees.

Also, a valve-stem puller is hugely helpful, packs down small, and weighs hardly anything:

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Tire-Valve-Stem-Pullers/dp/B002KR38WS

If you are using Park Tool BB30.3, you need to be careful, like using rubber mallet. CAAD8 so it's alu shell so you can be a bit more harsh but be gentle.

If it's not coming out, I haven't tried it but the linear bearing puller is said to work.

https://www.amazon.com/FIT-TOOLS-Arm-Bearing-Puller/dp/B013WLBDOK/ref=pd_sbs_263_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013WLBDOK&pd_rd_r=VJRCVX7WMBBFF7HZSCJ9&pd_rd_w=exiGG&pd_rd_wg=9kThP&psc=1&refRID=VJRCVX7WMBBFF7HZSCJ9

You need a hub puller. They come in two types: one that bolts to the hub, and a more universal claw type one.

The bolt ones never fit right and tend to stretch the bolts, and the claw ones never fit right and tend to slip off. I would suggest just buying an assembly at this point. As others have pointed out, the annealing on the inside tends to make it impossible to get the old one out, and a pain in the butt to clean the surface to get the new one in.

Those pullers are mainly designed to pull pulleys off shafts (think automotive applications). In any case they're cheap and yes it's a design flaw.

There are other pullers with smaller ends that would be more suited for what you're doing, such as these:

ABN 3-Jaw Gear Puller Set – 3”, 4”, and 6” Inch Removal Tool Kit for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPQKWV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hXPCCbDQEY7YV

Use one of these.

They are made for pulling steering wheels, but they fit our rotors perfectly. Two bolts will thread into the rotor, then the middle will press against the axle in the center (leave the axle nut on until you get the rotor off).

FYI, the screw that you're looking at is probably the end of a slide hammer ... Chryslers are notoriously easy to steal this way. I had a customer who got so sick of her Neon being stolen that she asked us to leave the ignition switch broken and just wire up a couple of hidden switches to start it.

Gear puller. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-2-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B077KDWL4H

I had this same issue a while back. I used two different items. I tried using a gear puller, but it wouldn't fit below the motor pinion. The claws were too thick. I ended up using a Windscreen Window Wiper Blade Arm Puller to get it going. Then I switched to the gear puller. I forgot what size the gear puller was, but here it was something like the one I linked below. Some heat couldn't hurt as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-18212-4-Inch-Adjustable-Puller/dp/B002O16UGQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523555996&sr=8-4&keywords=gear+puller


https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen-Window-Puller-Remover-Removal/dp/B01HJBM2WG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523555789&sr=8-1&keywords=windshield+wiper+blade+puller