Best rain gauges according to redditors
We found 25 Reddit comments discussing the best rain gauges. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 25 Reddit comments discussing the best rain gauges. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi Clear Case
32GB MicroSD Card
Netatmo Weather Station
Wind Gauge
Rain Gauge
Rain/Wind Gauge mounts
3 Way HDMI Switch
1FT HDMI Cable
Wifi Adapter
Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.
The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.
The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)
If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.
Spend $3 on a rain gauge. Zip codes are several miles wide and will not be always accurate to your lawn.
AcuRite 00850A2 5-Inch Capacity Easy-Read Magnifying Rain Gauge, 12.5-inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A3IMP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TKUQDbSWQY3K1
There are a ton of variables here which make it difficult to diagnose. I'll give you a few tips.
Did the system ever work properly?
I’m guessing you have an issue with pressure. Your system might be on the boarder line of the pressure needed and you're not getting that fast pop to raise the heads instantly.
When the heads go up only partially, they gush a bunch of water which robs you of even more pressure. It's a feedback loop.
You might have dirty heads which causes them to need more pressure to go up all the way. All the dirt and grime inside the head causes friction which makes you need more pressure to get the pop.
They’re a bunch of videos on YouTube that I’ll show you how to clean the heads but basically you unscrew the top and rinse out all the components.
Another issue could be that your pipes keep draining after you’re done watering. Empty pipes means you have to wait longer to fill up the pipes before you get enough pressure to the heads to give them that pop. As the water fills the emtpy pipes, it delivers partial pressure to the first heads which cause them to partially go up. If only partial pressure is going to the head you going to get that partial rise which will cause the water to gush out and rob you of pressure.
You can resolve that with a check valve in each sprinkler head. The check valve will prevent the pipes from emptying between uses. It keeps the water from draining through the sprinkler head after you’re done watering. It’ll keep your pipes full of water which will mean you’ll have an easier time getting pressure across the entire system all at once. Pop.
Check valves are easy to install, you just unscrew the top and stick the check valve at the bottom of the riser. Every head has a different valve so you’ll need to look up the valve for your head. They’re pretty cheap, maybe a quarter or a dollar for each check valve, depending on where you buy them.
Here's an example check valve but make sure you get the one that matches your sprinkler head https://sprinklersupplystore.com/products/437400-pro-spray-check-valve?variant=43672132873
Also, you can check your PSI at a hose bib using this cheap gauge from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RACK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lVy0Cb967B97E
Rain Bird P2A Water Pressure Test Gauge, 3/4" Female Hose Thread, 0-200 psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RACK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OofnDb6T4E1H6
FWIW, I used one of these water pressure meters to confirm my pressure reducing valve isn't functioning. Wherever you attach it, also realize there's a drop as you increase elevation (2nd floor pipes will measure less than the basement). I have 105 psi and it's not supposed to exceed 80, which makes one shower that has a "short feed" for the cold line and a longer feed for the hot water line very difficult to get a warm shower out of.
edit: As someone raised in a house with a septic system... it sounds like yours could need to be redone. Most of your drainage issues are from the leechfield not draining well. You can try to get it pumped out, and see if something was just plugged up, but the widespread backups on seemingly all your sewer lines suggest you're not flushing into "empty pipe" but a system that just isn't draining fast enough to keep up.
100% agree. Tree needs a serious thinning.
Get some milorganite on the lawn and start watering heavily. St Augustine will die if it dries out and that is what it appears occurred.
1" per week is the minimum. If you don't know how much that is (it is more than you think) you will need to measure it with irrigation audit devices or use tuna cans.
I have used a set of these for several years.
TEN Pack 1.5" Rain Gauge / Sprinkler Gauge, Wide Mouth, Bright Yellow Outdoor Water Measuring Tool 10 Piece
Good luck!
Lawn care can be as simple or as crazy as you want to make it. The Lawn Care Nut on YouTube is a great resource for tips.
Easy to do, gauges are frequently $8 on Amazon and screw onto a hose bib or your hot water heater drain.
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Pressure-Female/dp/B00004RACK
It's a pretty good chance the city is over 80 in any city of even moderate age. As more houses are added to the water line, they turn up the pressure more and more to serve everyone. Many cities now require a PRV on new construction because city water is getting too high and homes are designed for 80psi tops.
Also fyi spray sprinklers are designed for optimal performance at 30psi and rotors for 45psi, so 80+ is way outside their operating zone too.
No, I'm bottling one bottle into a plastic bottle with this pressure gauge. The rest will be in glass bottles. I will pasteurize them all once the gauge reaches near 30psi.
The pressure gauge will be an experiment. I've seen lots of people do it with hand-made versions successfully. I read that 3/4 hose thread is close enough to bottle threads, so I thought I'd try this pre-made one out.
More info on bottle carbing
http://www.howtomakehardcider.com/carb-oh.html
Found at a family-owned nursery. I'd wager you could find similar setups if you just search for 'rain gauge' just about anywhere.
For instance, I just did an Amazon search and found this guy - who I've already ordered. I think I really like this idea!
You can get just the bottom part, the sprinkler gauge, in a 10 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-Bright-Outdoor-Water-Measuring/dp/B005C5OP8G
Municipal means you are looking for a Pressure reducing valve, probably very close to your shutoff. Often A cone shaped object.
A hose bib pressure guage would be helpful. Knowing the pressure when adjusting would be best.
I agree with those saying check water pressure. You may only see it at your dishwasher because the solenoid valve it has closes really fast. But if you turn on a sink and slam the faucet shut as quick as you can, you’ll hear it there too. You can get a relatively cheaply and check it at a spigot yourself to rule it out. You want to be 40-60 psi here’s a gauge for $6.37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004RACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519230445&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=water+pressure+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=513tdz-hTQL&ref=plSrch
You probably do need a pressure regulating valve (PRV). Go to your local hardware store and pick up one of these. Put it on your hose faucet and turn the hose faucet on, and if it is over 80 psi, you should get a PRV installed. Your pipes also may not be properly supported in the new addition. Is this master bathroom above or near the water heater?
I'll agree with what others have already said. And also add the following comments:
Have you checked pressure upstream and downstream of the PRV? Use one of these. Also you can try adjusting the pressure by turning the bolt after loosening the nut. If no change, then time to replace.
Its not abnormal for the diaphram to wear out. If you can ID the model (or take to a plumbing supply to ID), you can buy a repair kit to replace the guts leaving the housing in place, which would be less labor. Just remove the bell and the guts are accessible.
If no luck with repair kit, you'll have to replace the whole thing. In which case, don't worry about finding the identical model. As someone mentioned, unless you have movement in the pipe, it won't be easy to get on, and would require soldering anyway. The critical dimension would have been the spacing between the in & out port, and pipe size. Yours look like 3/4".
Home depot does in fact carry PRVs, example. This one is a union on both sides which would make it easier to install. Still requires some sweating/soldering. But you don't need extra play in the pipes to squeeze the PRV in place.
Also, what's going on above the PRV? I see wire nuts. I hope that's for sprinklers and not line voltage. Make sure those are waterproof wire nuts, or packed with silicone.
Save yourself a bunch of money: (cheaper still at a hardware store)
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Multi-Purpose-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480607756&sr=8-1&keywords=water+gauge
https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-110-ED-1PK-Reducing-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B00S8C0JBC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480608162&sr=8-5&keywords=3%2F4+male+to+3%2F8+female+adapter
I did this and it worked no problem. And yeah, what everyone else is saying. You just have to really go for it. Use a table vise or large pliers with something to protect the ridges from carving up your portafilter.
What is your water pressure? What is the size of the feed line to your spigot?
All the sprinkler systems I've installed were on dedicated lines (not running through a hose spigot) and were sized appropriately for the pressure and system capacity.
It sounds like you either have very low water pressure, or an undersized line- and the backflow preventer is exerting just enough force to reduce the pressure sufficiently to prevent the sprinklers from running. A backflow preventer is a restriction- but it's usually minuscule.
Rainbird makes a pressure gauge that you can use to check the pressure at the spigot if you are not sure: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-Pressure-Female-Thread/dp/B00004RACK/
My pressure washer doesn’t really care what the incoming pressure is as it is the type of pump that can suck water out of a bucket if need be. The pressure washer does need adequate flow to perform optimally.
As others have mentioned it seems all the power washing pros in my area all use their own trailer mounted tank so your house pressure may not even be an issue.
As to your problem, you don’t say where you live. I’ll just assume the US. From what you describe you seem to have a flow problem. Remember there is a difference between pressure and flow. The most likely cause is that your service line from the street to the house has narrowed due to mineral deposits/corrosion/biofilm building up over the years.
Are you saying that your meter is 8 feet below ground level? I find that hard to believe. It would be very difficult for the utility company to do their routine meter reading during their billing cycle.
Most water service lines generally aren’t more than a few feet deep. Replacing one is not a really big deal - just a lot of grunt work in digging the trench. Once that is done it is a lot cheaper to have a plumber do the line replacement.
As far as a PRV, your utility company should be able to tell you if those are commonly used on their system. Most sytems don’t require PRV’s at residential connections because the normal system pressure in the mains in the street aren’t high enough to warrant one. They should be able to tell you what the nomral pressures are in your area. You could also measure your line pressure yourself. You can get a gauge that you can screw onto the spigot you would connect your garden hoe to for less than $10 - https://smile.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Pressure-Female/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497077267&sr=8-1&keywords=water+pressure+meter
That will tell you what pressure you have at your house. Note that pressure will likely vary somewhat at various times of day depending upon water usage/demand in your area.
In my state, water utilities are required by law to maintain a minimum system pressure of 20 psi. Normal system pressure is usually at least two or three times that.
You could have a plumber come out and cutout a section of the service line pipe in your crawlspace so the interior condition of the pipe can be inspected. The materials used for pipes will vary in various regions and over various years. In my area most house built in the 50’s had either copper service lines or galvanized steel. Galvanized pipes are notorious for buildup that narrows the pipe.
You say you have had the utility company out to your house before. One other thing you might ask them is how old your meter is. It could be that there is something clogging the meter somewhat. Most water utilities replace their meters every decade or two mainly because they do wear out and start to lose some accuracy as they wear down. They could disconnect the meter to see and make sure that adequate flow is getting to your property. Some utility companies are more helpful than others so they may not be willing to do that.
Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Water-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312853183&sr=8-1
You could try this, should be able to pick it up from a box store. If the pressure is indeed higher than it should be, you would need to consult with the city. There may be ways to lower your household pressure, but that is beyond me.
There is some good info here http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/gpm-psi-municipal-water-source/.
I did the 5 gallon bucket test and measured my pressure with a simple gauge that attached to an unregulated spigot like this one http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Water-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK.
I was all about mapping out the system and creating a diagram, but I had some difficulty doing this as I couldn't diagram it properly. My dad used to be a professional landscaper and he simply walked the yard and laid out flags color coded to each zone. The sprinklers give you a range of how much water they use so as soon as you know your pressure and water flow you'll know how many sprinklers you can put on a single valve.
My dad did a better job simply walking out the spacing manually. The main thing I learned was that although a sprinkler may have a 15 foot range you'll want significant overlap to ensure proper watering.
Not sure about new sod, but for established grass, 1+ inch a week. I do half an inch every 4 days.
TEN Pack 1.5" Rain Gauge / Sprinkler Gauge, Wide Mouth, Bright Yellow Outdoor Water Measuring Tool 10 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C5OP8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yHE5BbEAETV0G