Best recessed lighting housings according to redditors

I don't think LED is where it needs to be for shop lighting at the moment.

To be clear, I love LEDs and they're headed in the right direction. The inside of my house is 90% LED now, with just a couple halogen spotlights on dimmers and a few bare incandescent bulbs in the furnace room.

But for shop/garage lighting, it's still not clear cut. I've crunched the numbers on a few different options:

1. T8 Fluorescent are the old standby. At 350 Lumens/$ including tubes and fixtures, they're the absolute best choice for your money, and at 90 Lumens/Watt they're pretty damn efficient as well.
   
2. T8 High Efficiency tubes are a bit dimmer and a bit more expensive, but drop right into regular T8 fixtures. This brings you to 300 Lm/$ and 100 Lm/W, very good numbers if you're power-limited.
   
3. T5 are the more modern replacement to T8. They're rare and hard to find, and at 115 Lm/$ and 103 Lm/W I'm not sure it's worth trying.
   
4. T5HO have been showing up lately, and my goodness are they impressive to look at. They make all the other lights in a store display look awful. 200 Lm/$ and 93 Lm/W doesn't hold up quite as well when you see them in isolation, but on the plus side these fixtures all seem to come with -20° ballasts, which you usually have to buy separately at added cost for T8 fixtures.
   
5. The most impressive LED shop light I've seen is this guy. In the store display it's as impressive as T5HO. At 116 Lm/$ and 84 Lm/W it looks less interesting, but because LEDs are directional it puts more light where you want it. Hard to say how much, but most reports figure fluorescent tubes only get around 70% of their light onto your task. If you boost the LED numbers by 43% (1/0.7) they come out to an effective 165 Lm/$ and 120 Lm/W. On top of that, they start instantly and don't mind being turned on for ten seconds while you grab something and leave. I've thought about putting these in my shop but as of today I'm not sure they're worth the money against my T8 stuff. In a couple years I figure they'll be even better.
   
6. I went ahead and ran some numbers for LED tape, doing it properly with an aluminum channel for mounting and heatsinking. Numbers are based on this led tape in this aluminum channel with a $10 allowance for whatever power supply. That's 125 Lm/$ and 150 Lm/W - not great for your money, but the efficiency is damn good even if you figure in power supply efficiency. If you decide to go for the dorm-room look and skip the aluminum channel, cost-effectiveness jumps like mad to 415 Lm/$, but you might have to worry about longevity. Edit: On further reflection, I doubt that LED strip is quite as bright as it claims. It seems high, and the reviews for that particular roll of tape are mixed. A strip with more common 5050 diodes would be a safer option, but at lower brightness the efficiency and value drops well below the fluorescent options. If you don't strongly require the immediate full brightness of the LEDs, fluorescent tubes are still the way to go, and if you do need LEDs I'd recommend the commercial fixture with a warranty.
   
7. I'll also throw in bare incandescent bulbs here, for laughs. A cheap 60w bulb in a $2 ceramic base. That's 300 Lm/$ and 15 Lm/W. Not quite as good as I expected for the money, and garbage efficiency as expected. Just fun to compare.
   
   
   
   EDIT: Added numbers for LED tape and incandescent.
   EDIT2: Added comment about LED strip quality.

Looks like you have mold on the bottom of your roof deck. This is because without an insulating draft stop cover these things leak moist air like crazy and the water vapor is collecting on the cold roof deck.(https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO)

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Also looks like you have a major mouse shit issue which means you have a mouse piss issue all over your attic which is probably your smell. Could even be some bonus rotting mouse carcasses up there somewhere. I hope you are wearing a mask when messing with this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756VY88Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m2kQCbP1ZF6Z5 that’s what I used in my dining room and kitchen.

OMG you could avoid this for $12. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FX5D4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AxfLybM0PPR0S

I used similar LED strips for case lighting and they worked fine but the bright white slowly turned to yellow due to the heat slowly discoloring the material. I recently replaced them with the same strip but added an aluminum channel that acts as a heatsink. No longer an issue.

Link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7GBIM

With the corner pieces I'm talking about, they're basically going in the corner space where the glass meets the wood.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7GBIM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_mVetDbJKH34MF

In a past career I worked for an electrical contractor who mainly focused on residential, about a 60/40 mix of remodels and new construction. Most electricians take a lot of pride in their work and it is hard to imagine that light ending up where it is without good reason...like some huge obstruction preventing the lighting can from being located on center, maybe an AC unit blocking the spot or something. That being said, there was no one in the company I worked for that would be able to sleep at night with that shit the way it is. We would have found a way for it to look balanced by either adding another light and spacing them evenly, or sourcing another can that would fit where the single light should be...on center.

Rip that shit out OP. Get a remodel can in there.

https://www.amazon.com/E27RICAT-Recessed-Lighting-Insulation-Air-Tite/dp/B074K234DL/ref=sr_1_10?qid=1570770664&refinements=p_n_feature_twelve_browse-bin%3A5693057011&s=lamps-light&sr=1-10

Edit: Pro tip, if there is no access above that space, take the handle of a hammer or something similar and push that can up and out of the way so that you can drywall over the spot. The metal on those units is relatively flimsy and you can muscle it out of position if you need to. If you get lucky, there might even be enough slack in the wiring to cut it and reach the new location.

Measure the diameter of the hole, could be 4-6 inch.

Then you have some different options.

You can order a

Sunco Lighting 12 Pack 6 Inch Remodel Housing, Air Tight IC Rated Aluminum Can, 120-277V, TP24 Connector Included for Easy Install - UL & Title 24 Compliant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RS3GM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EE5iDbEFKT2GN

Which will fit up in there and hold a br 40 light.

They have these now

Sunco Lighting 6 Pack 4 Inch Slim LED Downlight with Junction Box,10W=60W, 650 LM, Dimmable, 3000K Warm White, Recessed Jbox Fixture, Simple Retrofit Installation - ETL & Energy Star https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8FMRMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cG5iDbSR8NMAA

Which just clip in the hole.

All these require some. Basic wiring with owning a house you should learn to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO/

I disagree with the other posters. Recessed cans are being phased out in my part of the world, to be replaced by this kind of light:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077PML84D

No can is required. You daisy chain them together, and place the LEDs where needed. You can get dimmable ones if you wish. And look at all the different temperatures you've got to choose from. You can go from soft yellow all the way to daylight.

I was looking at this today.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lemonbest-Square-Recessed-Lighting-Fixture/dp/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492037622&sr=8-1&keywords=led+light+panel+18w

I wanted to use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VY88Z/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I'm not sure I have that much (8") clearance to be honest.

amazon.com/gp/product/B01ND1L263/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $14.49

I sell comercial & residental lighting for a living, part time carpenter, currently on my 3rd flipper at 30 years old. Your father would be 100% incorrect in my neck of the U.S.

Based on transactions not $$$ sold 80% of my residental sales are recessed lighting. 10% consists of LED flat panel & strip lighting for garages and barns. 10% outdoor lighting

Hands down the most comon remodel setup is a Halo E7RICATNB can with Halo LT56 LED trim. That setup can be had for less $$ than a decent LED hat & box. If your installing them into existi g drywall get the E7RICAT remodel can, attaches directly to the drywall. Link below to my kitchen/dining room. Im yet to defect or warrantee one of these

Airtite Remodel 6" Ic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3XZ722/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l53WBb7MR0AP7

All-Pro LT560WH6930R 5/6 LED Retrofit Baffle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01INNA1FO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E63WBbGEE1VZ3




Direct mounts are the newest on the almighty residential lighting scene, once the pricing comes down and they gain a bit more popularity they will replace the can/led trim combo completly.

Halo SMD6S6927WHDM SMD 6" Integrated LED Recessed Square Trim Downlight Direct Mount 90 CRI 2700K CCT, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078LCKRPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h.3WBbRW1SYZT


Color is a big concern, I love the 4000k range but its hard to adjust to. 2700k or soft white was the staple for yyyyeeeeaaaarrrrrssssss. Eaton has a new trim with a switch on the back to change it from 2700k to 5000k. Go that route and try them all.

I followed the Ikea LACK build, with my own mods.

I don't live near an IKEA, so I bought two end tables @ $8/ea, but ended up paying $26 total after shipping. I then purchased $60 in plexi, but used corrugated plastic for the back panel since it's significantly cheaper and the white background reflects more light on the print bed. It's basically the stuff that political yard signs are made out of (if that makes sense). I printed standoffs / brackets to hold the plexiglass (see Thingiverse), $14 in brackets & board for the side shelf. The lights were about $45, using this, this, & this. I put the LED strips on aluminum channel, but that really could have been skipped. I just had some from a previous project.

Because I went "full nerd", I used an arduino & temperature sensor to create a temperature controlled fan, with LED control panel (designed & printed bracket), and used sketch-up to build an exhaust housing very similar to this one, except for a 120mm fan. I don't have a filter on the enclosure now, and to be honest, 90% of the time, the fan is off. But I wanted to be able to place a charcoal filter on the exhaust fan for ABS, so I planned ahead. I'm going to tie my OctoPi to the Arduino and trigger the fan on high after a print ends to cool the enclosure down faster so I can pull parts off the glass bed sooner.

I'll guess my all-up price was about $200. It could have been done for probably $130 without the arduino & lighting tom foolery.

Other mods pictured are the printed Z-axis braces on the printer itself, this fan shroud on the control box (because the stock fan is a joke), and the aforementioned borosilicate glass print bed.

Until you have an enclosure sorted, even surrounding the printer on 3 sides with cardboard proved to be a huge step in the right direction for me. It proved that yeah, I really do want an enclosure.

Try these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VY88Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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They look like can lights, but you don't care where you put them. junction box is included and separate, so a ceiling stud won't throw off your lighting plan. They're also bright enough to give you a decent tan. You can also put them in places you couldn't possibly put a full-sized can light in, like in a passthrough, art niche or something like that.

Look at the ultra-thin LEDs. The only hole you need to make is about the thickness of a pencil, and easily sealed:

https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Lighting-WF4-LED-30K/dp/B01N9X6YII/

Since they have a very long lifetime, servicing them should not present a problem.

You can get them so they nestle in the first layer of drywall, or surface mount, if desired:

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/lighting/products/recessed_general_purpose_downlighting/led/_6_inch_led_smd6/_889910.brands.lighting!recessed_halo!_led_direct_mount.html

P.S., If the strip is going to be exposed, I would think of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LightingWill-Internal-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-U02B5/dp/B01DM7EZO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473899117&sr=8-2&keywords=light+strip+housing

I don't have an answer but there are alternatives to the 2" rigid foam board boxes. Some people take sonotubes and cap them with foam board or something else.

Or you could take a look at Tenmat covers: http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Light-Draft-Stop-Cover/dp/B002XVPUAO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1258996712&sr=8-2

You guys/gals(?) are awesome. Thank you.

It sounds like I have my work cut out for me. I've been doing research on air sealing and I can definitely see where that is probably my biggest priority. This house was built during the 2006 construction boom (which was especially feverish here in Bend, Oregon) and I'm sure that lots and lots and lots of small/medium (maybe even large?) gaps are scattered through the attic floor.

So--I need to get a whole bunch of expanding foam, silicone caulk, garbage bags and fiberglass batting, etc. Some more specific questions:

1.) How the *%$& am I supposed to move all of that blown-in fiberglass insulation? (I mistakenly said it was cellulose--it appears to be fiberglass!) Do I just pile it all out of my work area, do the sealing, and then pile it back? Holy crap this sounds awful.

2.) On that note--I read that it was necessary to get a relatively clean surface before applying adhesive insulations (sprayfoam/caulk). They suggested a vacuum would be necessary. Seriously??? +1 PITA factor.

3.) On the furnace: The air supply enters a metal box (basically the "top" of the furance) which then branches off into insulated ducts. The ducts seem to be well insulated. But the metal box isn't insulated at all--feels very warm to the touch. Can I insulate this part of the furnace? And if so, what would be the appropriate type of insulation? Since its a box, it seems like the rigid foam-board styrofoam insulation would be easy and 'clean'. To clarify, the part of the furnace I am talking about is shown in this video, where I showed our previous homeowner the big gap in the furance: https://youtu.be/biD6_NJaNEU The box that used to have the gap is the box I am talking about insulating.

4. What do you all think about these recessing lighting can covers? https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-E-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483677859&sr=8-1&keywords=TENMAT Seems like a better idea than just dousing the can with spray foam!

Thanks, all!

I'm thinking of cheaping out and going with the following two decently rated 4" lights from amazon. For 10 bucks a pop, doesn't it make sense to replace them with something better in 5 to 10 years?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6BDQC4 - 4" cans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4M1S4W - 4" trims

> Make sure any recessed lights are IC and AT rated.

I'm thinking about converting my recessed lights (installed by the previous homeowners) to IC-rated ones.

As in interim solution, I replaced the piss-poor "boxes" the previous homeowners put around each light with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVPUAO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By "boxes", I mean four pieces of shittily-cut drywall loosely placed around each light.

I’ve used these diffusers with good results. No more spots on my retinas.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sand-Surface-PMMA-Lens-Diameter-10mm-Light-Transmission-For-SMD-5050-LED/352163883530?itemId=352163883530&varId=621600413364

I would recommend 30 LEDs per meter strips that are NOT waterproof. If they have waterproofing it will be basically impossible to attach. I used superglue and lots of patience. If you go higher density on the lights it’s gonna take a long time.

The other option is to use metal tracks that little plastic filters snap into. The metal also works as a nice heat sink and way to attach to the wall. You can also use higher density 60 LEDs per meter strips without worrying about the pain of attaching individual lenses. Don’t get 120 LEDs per meter - too power hungry for most applications. There are several types and perhaps better prices out there but an example would be this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_4_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DM7G91G&pd_rd_r=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6&pd_rd_w=c2rRH&pd_rd_wg=z9ew8&psc=1&refRID=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6

Give these a try?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6BDQC4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GSFKD9/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did something similar using the two items below in case i move apartments. I removed the clear casing from phillips, lined any exposed electrical connections in the back with electrical tape and then double sided taped them to the inside of these frames. I took pictures of the whole process with the intention of posting the process but never got around to it. let me know if you have any questions

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7G91G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4DRX7N/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have similar goals, and are in a similar place as I am so I don't have much to add. I personally don't want to the bare LEDs because I'm worried that they will be too directional so I was considering this diffusing mounting channel. A very diy friend of mine said you can also rub the tips with a bit of sandpaper to frost them, but I'm taking that with a grain of salt. Good luck with your project.if possible please post your results.

It is the spring mounted type, I was sent a Chinese model for review that was generic, the ballast is separate and a nicer one with a separate ballast means you get the connections all sorted and attach that to the joist then pop the light on up through.

They appear to have updated their range or some such but this one in the US shop looks to be the same.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1505942510&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=led+panel+light

Whether or not you need a junction box to make this work would depend on your existing wire ends and what meets your electrical code.

Better ones exist and I like it in the bathroom but 3000k warm white LEDs are a bit nicer than these 2500-2800 ones.

I'm intending to do a bigger one in the kitchen and would be going 3000k, larger panel for more even lighting.

You can buy them on Amazon too if you need them quicker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X6YII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t7yHAb56ZNFV1

I just put these in my house and they're awesome. Bright, work in wet, and no discernable direction.

Love it! I'd recommend looking at tape light next time. Lumens per watt are extraordinary nowadays and versatile in terms of how you apply to get the light distribution and foot candels you desire. There are some that are tunable for lumens and color temp now too.

May also want to check out some of the new "wafer" style downlights... very thin profile...

I’m not sure about the circle plastic thingy you’re talking about (photos would help)

IMO that’s excessively expensive. Depending on your wiring situation, the first light would be the most difficult to run. After that, they can do all the work from the interior and fish the wires from hole to hole.

When I bought my can lights I bought these lights with these housings

Have you looked into hiring a handyman? At least get another quote.

AFAIK it’s your home, go where you want.

Looks like something like this https://www.amazon.com/JIRVY-Aluminum-Installation-Diffuser-Mounting/dp/B01JZ5STLC/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1536110881&sr=1-1&keywords=Jirvy&dpID=41Dazq6lHwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
just mounted to a couple pieces of square stock painted white

In my experience, the harsh effect will definitely be diminished. Especially if you're able to do a dimmer.

Here's a type of light I have used in the past.

You'll want to look up the right amount of light for your room (often referred to as footcandles). 12x12 is pretty small, but spreading out your light sources should really help!

Thank you for the reply. That was my concern and it makes sense once I started to understand the sound transmission through air and vibrations. We are worried about ceiling height as ours is slightly lower than normal already, but we’re convinced clips and hat channel are superior to RC-8 res channel for reducing noise, so low profile lighting is key to prevent lowering the ceiling feel further. If I went a product such as this would you recommend putty on the box and then an acoustic sealant around the edges of the light? It is an LED so it should last log enough that replacing it is a long way down the road, so sealing it seems worth the headache of eventually replacing it.

Another Question: If i do use a spreader bar with a junction box would you think using a light like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lemonbest-Square-Recessed-Lighting-Fixture/dp/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=pd_cp_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00EC8RS5Q&pd_rd_r=GAYECRXBBN35E4SQXCBS&pd_rd_w=8WkXC&pd_rd_wg=TGiGn&psc=1&refRID=GAYECRXBBN35E4SQXCBS

would be ok as long as the connection is in the JBOX or avoid those type of lights all together?

There are specific insulation covers you can get for these because piling insulation on top of them can cause excessive heat and potential fire hazard.

This past winter, I felt a lot of air passing around the recessed lights in our vaulted ceiling (white cedar T&G), so I took the covers off, stuffed some insulation around the sides, then applied silicone caulk between the wood and can openings. I wish I had known about the insulation covers when I installed these during our house build.

Wow! i didn't know they were so complicated to dim. Thanks both for the suggestions and the manual!

/u/abt5000 i will check at that this night if there is a dial, thanks!

/u/MountJunior
According to the manual i see that they only dim from 20% - 100% so i guess that the result i have with my ELV switch is expected.

Considering that, I need to put some downlights on my bedroom so i would like to dim them as slow as possible (without having to use halogens). I have a common led dimmable phillips bulb i got on the hardware store hooked to a lutron casseta lamp dimmer, and it goes super low, i love that. So looking at led downlights, what would be the best config? Something that it is not 12v DC i guess?

I saw this on amazon, would this be a good option? (i see that it uses a driver)
https://www.amazon.com/ProGreen-Dimmable-Ultrathin-Recessed-Downlight/dp/B01FX5D4UE/

If not, something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Cree-TW-Equivalent-Retrofit-Recessed-Downlight/dp/B072M35PYM/r
But with the last one i need to add a can.

I am doing this from scratch so i can put whatever makes more sense.

Thanks again!

Parmida (12 Pack) 6 Inch LED Slim Panel Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box, Dimmable, 12W (100W Eqv.), 800lm, Can-less Wafer Downlight, Energy Star & ETL, IC Rated Airtight, 3000K (Soft White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPVQ2WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FpBUDbDKDM5Q0

Carpenter here. I do a fair amount of electrical work too. I have never heard of 4.5" recessed cans. I did a quick search which turned up these. They are usually meant for drop ceilings where there is very little clearance above the ceiling grid and you'd have to remove the old cans/rewire. You have pretty much two options:

1. Try to remove the old cans and replace them with 5/6" replacement cans.
   
   
2. Go to an electrical supply company and ask for advice on a suitable retro trim. This could get expensive since 4.5" cans are not an industry standard. If you can't find an electrical supply house you can try a lighting supply store or call a local electrician who may be able to source a product for you.
   
   I'll keep looking around the internet for something for a bit. If I find anything I'll update and DM you.
   
   Edit: I also found these and these, but they would also require you to remove the old can and rewire these in their place. Also the mere act of trying to remove the old cans will probably cause damage to the holes in the drywall. If you're removing them anyway you may as well replace them with 6" retro's.

Recess lighting is real easy to install.

Lithonia Lighting WF4 LED 40K MW M6 10W Ultra Thin 4" Dimmable LED Recessed Ceiling Light, 4000K, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZFABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OMPWCbH7RKXJX

Might I suggest you go with these instead? They can be places so that the adjoining stud won't interfere, and at 6 inches in diameter, will cover up the existing opening.

so im on the verge of doing this project and i am going to use a V-shape aluminum channel that will install on the front "lip" of my cabinet (its basically going to angle the LED strip at 45 degrees toward the wall, versus straight down). this is because the underside of my cabinets are slightly visible from the seating area in my living room and mounting the lights on the front edge will hide them while still providing the desired effect (i hope). the added benefit to this approach is that it will allow me to cut the aluminum channel to fit and follow the corners, since the bend is in accordance with the flexibility of the strip its self (if that makes sense).

for example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7GBIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon

Edit:

Something like this, but there are lots of styles on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/

Also, this is just the aluminum channel. Lights, wire, and power supply sold separately.