No way running the furnace will keep your tanks from freezing in those extreme conditions. You’ll need 3 things.
Tank heaters.
A heated water supply hose.
RV antifreeze.

Facon 12" x 18" Holding Tank Heater Pad for RV Camper Trailer with Automatic Thermostat Control (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT9EUG9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BpkwCbPVC0C2K

Camco 25 25ft TASTEPure Heated Drinking Water Hose with Energy Saving Thermostat-Lead and BPA Free (22911) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABONB0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NrkwCb85DA2HR

The heaters and a little anti freeze in the tanks as you flush and wash will keep them from freezing.

Charging:

• There are more chargers in Idaho than Arkanas
  
• if you get a 220v NEMA 14-50 EVSE you can charge at RV parks with 50A services. An adapter can be used for other types of outlets.
  
• Most, if not all EV, should come with a 110v NEMA 5-15 EVSE good for 3 to 4 miles an hour. If not you can buy one for less than $300 or get one that works both 110v and 220v with an adapter.
  
  Cold: will hurt range but if you can preheat and even have a 110v outlet at work you can use it shouldn't be that bad depending on miles you have to go.
  
  Options:
  
  
• can you afford a Tesla Model S or X, new or CPO?
  
• can you wait/afford a Bolt or Tesla Gen3?
  
• If less then 40miles, as much as I blame it for slowing down quick charge roll out, you can get a used first gen Volt, but it has a gas motor.
  
  Better thing is to tell us so we can have a lively argument/discussion:
  
  

1. how far do you plan to drive between power access
   
   
2. how long will the car be parked between drives with access to what type of power outlet
   
   
3. do you have a price limit?
   
   
4. do you take 'road trips' and if so do you have access to an ICE car? e.g: second car, rental, or exchange with friend or family

So I believe the Wave heater aswell as the Mr.Buddy are Propane with no external intake/exhaust. I believe this means it is a wet heat and will not necessarily 'dry' things.


I have heard of people running their Fan-Tastic fans with their heaters to help push out the moisture. The Propex propane heaters have external intake/exhaust vents so there is no moisture build up.

I am perplexed as I was hoping the Mr.Buddy was going to answer all of my problems. I may have to invest in the propex to get the heat/dryness I need for the Winters in the Pacific North West.

I use this on the pinch weld right next to the reinforced part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG9CNUX/ then put the jack stand on the reinforced part of the pinch weld.

A battery jump starter

RV leveling blocks

Led string lights

Collapsable food containers

I don't know about that.

This vs.
This

Half the price and the brass will outlast the entire vehicle.

The black ones definitely let in less light, but if you are simply looking to insulate and block light cheaply and without installing anything these work great.

While everything is apart, I would get a replacement inlet tube.

Yours looks like it's about to let go.

My previous camper had a rotary tank washer. Disappointed that my new camper did not, so I installed one. Wasn’t difficult and has worked for me when something gets stuck to a level sensor.

Camco 40126 Tornado Rotary Tank Rinser with Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUU5TU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DvkaCbX7114YB

Amazon has a $25 car air mattress (link) , which fits into the back seat of your car. It would really help you sleep better, and you can get it delivered to an amazon locker since you don’t have an address.

Before I was in a tight money spot myself, I used to buy food or things like the mattress for people in the r/assistance and r/RandomKindness groups. The people there are super helpful, and you should definitely post a link (with other things too if you need). I know sleeping in a car sucks, so even this little thing would make it a little easier!

Car Bed Back Seat Inflatable Air Mattress for Camping Travel Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RDFNXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NzqRBb7BH8YDB

They make portable tanks that you can drain your tanks into. You can then take that tank to a dump station.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OR18BE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521132002&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=portable+rv+waste+tanks&dpPl=1&dpID=41TMTdNeRWL&ref=plSrch

TT stands for Travel Trailer and unfortunately Tesla does not make an adapter for it - but you could always use a Tesla NEMA 10-30 plug with one of these:

AC WORKS EV Charging Adapter for Tesla Use (TT-30 RV 30A to Tesla)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHDRBBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rpjkDb5Y17DAR

I have sold my Gobi rack and RTT. Thanks to the overlanding craze I actually flipped them for a profit.

I switched back to sleeping in the rear of my Jeep JKU 4 door. The seats fold nearly perfectly flat and combine with this.

Jeep JKU Sleeping Pad

It makes for an excellent sleeping space in the rear of the Jeep.

My biggest reason for doing this was I often explore and drive to hiking trailheads after setting up camp somewhere. The requirement to pack up the RTT every time I wanted to go hiking was not worth it anymore.

Lastly I do some rather extreme rock crawling trails and found the Jeep performed very poorly over boulders with the rack and RTT weight all up top. I found I would leave the RTT at home when doing a extreme trail and wish I didn’t even have the rack for those runs.

Lived in Madison, WI last winter in my RV. You will need heat tape around your black water tank and piping. As for the water hose, heat tape with insulation for that or buy an extra fancy hose with it already inside. There is also black tank antifreeze we used that we found at Menards for a couple bucks. To go around the outside of the rv you will need either some sort of skirting, or insulation panels. The goal is not to let wind gusts under your rv. We used clear duct tape and white tarp around our entire trailer held down with PVC pipes and cinder blocks. Inside if you have a patio door you will need to heat tape around it because it will freeze shut and the only way to open it will be with a blow dryer. Plastic window shrink wrap all windows, and put a blanket over doors you don't use. Use these vent pillows.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E6QX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509510577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv+vent+pillow&dpPl=1&dpID=31oBzadZDDL&ref=plSrch.

Make sure your heater works (ours had a frog in it and had to be replaced). This will get you through a winter with sub zero temps.

If its above freezing during the day and barely below freezing at night you won't need to be this extreme. Heat tape and/or leaving the water run just a bit would do the trick.

Camco 25' 25ft TASTEPure Heated Drinking Water Hose with Energy Saving Thermostat-Lead and BPA Free (22911) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABONB0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cDJLDbHTD5VAQ

Something like this dimmer switch might work? Would be a fun rabbit hole to fall down.

[Edit]
So I tracked down the power to the dash lights (cluster etc). Its fuse #6 in the fuse box on the passenger side interior. Could tap right into that and run the dimmer up to the dash for easy access. I've saved it to a wishlist but have bigger fish to fry atm. Cheers!

I used dicor and it leaked a year later. Used etrnabond haven't had an issue since.
RV White Roof Seal Sealant Tape 4" x 50' Stop Camper Roof Leaks, Hassle Free Installation, UV Weatherproof Sealant for Trailer EPDM, roof flashings,and Sealing RVs motorhomes Fifth Wheels airstreams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCYRQZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MmfUCbEXPYKJ4

These things work pretty darn good too. Not sure for how long and I suggest bringing a roll of good clear packing tape, but comfortable for the most part.

Your motor may not like PWM. Try a regular DC dimmer instead, like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4UBMW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ykmRzbCRCQ4WH).

I would recommend using more water in the tank and a deodorizer in the tank to hide some of the smell, but most importantly, you should dump the black tank after every trip. If you have a stew in the tank and it sits around for a month till the next trip its going to get ripe.

also I installed a [Camco Tornado Tank Rinser ] (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40126-Tornado-Rotary-Rinser/dp/B000BUU5TU/) if you I dont have one you should think about it to help get rid of all the debris.

Check out the picture of an Olympian heater - just the lower portion glowing.

I don't have an authoritative answer but I could imagine the fuel flowing in from the bottom and being catalyzed as it goes upward. At some point it would all be used up and stop generating as much heat. You wouldn't want unburned fuel making it all the way out the top.

Was it on the highest setting in the picture?

Also - make sure both your CO and LP detectors are in working order!

4000 really isn't much heat, it would warm hands held over the flames, but not really contribute to the heating of the room.

I would go for a proper heater, then have one of the little, for effect only, fake fireplace ones for the visuals if wanted.

Not sure what your budget is, but the ultimate combination of these would be a Dickinson propane model. They are pricy, but built to last forever, are quite efficient, very esthetically pleasing, and direct vented (so none of that pesky dying in your sleep due to low O2 or CO poisoning!).

A strong thing to think about when choosing a heat source is fire danger. In a tiny home, a small fire can quickly become lethal, so ones like an infrared heater have very directed heat which require a lot of safe space in front. Also, even with the small ethanol fireplaces like you've linked, make sure you crack a window or something, especially if burning for a longer period, as they really do eat up a lot of your O2 and replace it with CO.

Lastly, regardless of what you go with, make sure you get a GOOD CO detector, just a smoke alarm is not enough! As an EMT I have seen way too many dead pets, kids, adults due to poor ventilation of a combustible heat source in a small space.

You can dump your black and grey tanks into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Barker-30844-4-Wheeler-Tote-Tank/dp/B000OR18BE/

And get a 20-40 gallon water bladder for your vehicle that you can fill up anywhere and then refill your freshwater with.

With a family of 4, I'm good for about 4 days before my grey water is full.

Be careful with that. A lot of the cheaper ones don't have any bearings on the wheels and they will burn out really fast unless you drive REALLY slow... like under 2mph slow.

I know Barker's tanks have bearings and bigger inflatable wheels and will hold up a lot better. Their warranty support is really damn good too.

We have a 42 gallon one and I use one of these to haul it around after I fill it since the dump station is quite a ways away from where we set up.

edit: That picture is wrong... that's the old style, here is the right picture

Here ya go:

Dorman 56398 Water Pump Inlet Tube

I tried the classic way, the way others have suggested and it would just not get the air out of the system. So I bought this and it has worked fantastic for me. I've used it multiple time now on my and friends bike and it works great.

Ya, I think a roof seal failed. I used some of this on it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCYRQZX/

Should have fixed it.

My biggest discovery for the interior mods has been with molle attachment systems, including molle seat covers. I also have these for either side's roll bars

Teraflex cargo rack

Trailgater

Xprite sleeping pad

More than anything it's been with the molle gear though, because it makes storage work very easily.

Car Bed Back Seat Inflatable Air Mattress for Camping Travel Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RDFNXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QSA9BbDH4CXVF

I lay a thick blanket on top to prevent any risk of puncture but also so it’s a bit softer for my pupper

Doesn't seem very sturdy, but if it works? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I carry around two stacks of leveling blocks but I have also seen people with pieces of 2x4 that they cut to short lengths.

Yeah Trail Tech is solid and can give you the important gauges. Wire it into your lights and you don’t even need a battery.

For the lights, get the 12v coil from Treats and replace your incandescent bulbs with these, which plug right into your fixtures:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071V2DBWP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Are all your lights LED?

I have a 1996 model 30'. So I bought nice pack of 20 pack of ledto replace all the stock lamps. Was awhile ago, but I think I rememeber see how all 20 of those LED's drew as much as 1.5 of the stock lamps. Even if it's not THE problem, it certainly helps, regardless of there being a problem in the first place.

I've been a licensed electrician for 15 years. Always good time chasing down a little issue. Atleast the big ones are obvious, they blow fuses/trip breakers. Little parasitic ones are such a pain.

Good luck man.

That is, with almost complete certainty, due to air in your lines, Those are classic symptoms. Buy a hand vacuum brake bleeder and bleed your brakes! Might as well replace the fluid whilst you're at it, since you're going to need some on hand in case you need to top it up.

Use an airbnb place, cook for week, clean up. Pack my van. Roll

The fridge I use, love it

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018DC-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0030G7Y64/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1474840297&sr=8-12&keywords=Dometic

If you get a tt-30 to 14-50 adapter then MAKE SURE it is Tesla compatible. You can get this and works good. Charged 30 amp 110v for 12 hours + in 95f heat.

I would recommend cutting out reflectix insulation for windows for privacy and can be good insulation in the winter. Front sun reflector is a must as well. I lost 38 miles in 8 hours exactly with it being in the mid 70s all night.

> Fantastic vent fan insulating pillow

like this?

If it really is a NEMA 14-50, I'm about 90% sure that Camping World has them.

Either:

30 F to 50 M

or

30 M to 50 F

would do the trick for you.

EDIT: I misread the 240 receptacle the OP had. My bad.

Now that you have a proper jack, you'll probably need one of these to use the pinch weld lift points: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG9CNUX/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497853070&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Here ya go

Good price too

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QALLOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_suvZAb83T0TQ2

There are several lights out there that can be dimmed. Baja Designs (12m,30s) lights can be dimmed to 50%, and MTN LITEbar has several modes as well.

You could also probably use one of these or similar, but they might, or might not work.

I shopped endlessly for one before I gave up and decided to make my own.

Get a small piece of sheet metal and find some switches that you like, then make your own! There were some small sheets of brass and such at my local ACE Hardware, probably also at home depot, and I bought some brass from Amazon and eBay for my project as well.

I drilled some holes in my brass plate for some toggle switches that i really like, added a couple of LED indicators on things that I don't want to forget (propane valve open, wifi system running), and some LED dimmer knobs for my lights. It takes extra time to cut and drill your metal plate, then grind off the sharp edges with a dremel, but you'll get result that you like.

(tip: if you are trying to drill into sheet metal, clamp it to a wood block first or your holes will warp - the bit frequently catches the edge as it goes through at the very end. Some of mine turned out a little rough as I was figuring things out)

The charger will charge the battery from an outlet when I am plugged into shore power. The "plug" that I have installed is just a 110/15amp plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QALLOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CCP is the customer connection point that Ford has pre-installed. It just taps into your car battery. And then I have a dual battery isolator installed right after that.

I guess that second is redundant now that I look at it more. Mainly I wanted that in there to cut all power from the battery to any loads. Mainly for when we park for awhile and won't be using the van.

do you posses a extension Cord ? throw it out the Window and you got external hookups.

The law doesn't specify the extent of the Electric System.

When I signed that paper I didn't have electric on the outside, now I have - a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QALLOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power inlet to run the A/C - just drilled hole in the rear bumper.

I have done a lot of research on this, and in my view, the [Dometic CF-018DC] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030G7Y64/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which costs less than $500 new, is the best DC fridge/freezer on the market.

Doesn't take up a lot of space, runs cold and holds up to 23 12 oz cans of soda.

Hope this is helpful!

If you're not planning on using the alternator to charge the battery, I doubt that 60w alone is enough to run a fridge. I have a 115w panel that I use to run a small dometic fridge and it works well if it's sunny. I could probably get away with less, but I doubt half as much, which is what you have. On the other hand, if you're only going to run it for a weekend, get the largest AGM battery you can fit in the space you have and recharge it when you get home.

Get an MPPT charge controller because you want to maximize the output from those small panels.

Here are the fridge and charge controller I have and am happy with.