(Part 2) Best stage & studio cables according to redditors

I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.

Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/

Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)

Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.

Ok, so you need a mic as well. Alrighty. I'm going to suggest you go a different route than pretty much what everybody else is suggesting. I personally dislike the all in one headsets, especially if they're marketed as "gaming", double especially if they are 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound.

If your priority is actually hearing things in game, and determining direction and such, you are better served with a stereo set that emphasizes the mid range and high end frequencies while de-emphasizing the low end. Low end boosting is an inexpensive way for manufacturers to make a cheap set of cans "sound" expensive, and while it can make movies and some music sound great it's not amazing for gaming.

Here we go with a 100 budget. I'm going to give you a buying list for a standalone set of headphones paired with a separate mic setup:

• Headphones: Superlux 668B - $38. https://www.amazon.com/Superlux-HD668B-Dynamic-Semi-Open-Headphones/dp/B003JOETX8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=superlux&qid=1568577791&sr=8-1
  
  • Open headphones provide a larger soundstage compared to closed back cans. These particular headphones share the same large drivers as the excellent AudioTechnica AD700's, which means you are getting a frequency response targeting the high end and mid range. The directional ability of these headphones can't be beat for under $50, and will challenge $100 to $150 cans.
    
• Microphone: Pyle-Pro PDMIC58 - $14. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GEBGA0/ref=emc_b_5_t
  
  • I would rather suggest the Behringer xm8500, but that mic's availability hasn't been great recently. If you can find it for regular price (around $20), it's worth the extra few dollars. The Pyle-Pro mic is more than adequate for gaming voice chat though. It will be miles better than any headset mic regardless. And it's also a dynamic mic, which means it will refuse sounds from your room or keyboard or mouse.
    
• Microphone boom arm: InnoGear boom scissor arm - $14. https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Microphone-Suspension-Adjustable-Snowball/dp/B01L3LL95O/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2ZTQGVRG0AY74&keywords=mic+boom+arm&qid=1568578206&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=mic+boom%2Cmi%2C174&sr=1-7
  
  • It's a desk mic boom. It stays out of your way while holding the mic in your face. What else do I need to say?
    
• USB XLR audio interface: Two options...
  
  • Inexpensive USB to XLR cable: https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Tanbin-Converter-Microphones-Instruments/dp/B079DQ9ZPT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+to+xlr&qid=1568578338&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-4
    
    • This will work just fine and keeps you well under your 100 budget. Which leaves you room for a better mic or different boom arm if you rather. Or maybe even a step up to the AudioTechnica AD500x headphones if wish.
      
  • Behringer UM2: https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=usb+to+xlr&qid=1568578338&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-21
    
    • This is not necessary, and puts you just over your 100 budget. You do get a bunch more flexibility with it. For instance... you can plug your headphones straight into it. These interfaces tend to have great stereo separation and low noise floor compared to on board motherboard audio. You also get an extra input and nicer mic pre amp. Again not necessary, but well worth the extra $$$ in my opinion.
      
      There you are sir. A flexible solution that can come quite a bit under your budget. You get way better headphones than the gamer marketed ones and a way better and more flexible mic solution as well. Have fun!

You could probably chain any of the Timmy, BB Preamp, and TU2, and Fuzz together without any noise problems using one of these.

Don't worry about isolation until you have to, i.e. when something does make noise. There's a fair number of combinations of pedals that you can chain together without any power supply noise problems.

It's probably overkill for this application and outside of your price range, but when I tried Dragon Naturally Speaking several years ago, I used a Shure SM58 with a cheap impedance transformer on a nice sound card. My accuracy was 95% and this was 10 years ago. I would check out Shure's SM58+X2U Combo. I'm sure in combination with the software advancement that you would see damn near 100% accuracy with this. An industry standard microphone compared to that cheap USB nonsense should absolutely make a huge difference.

Your supply should still be able to handle it. Figure out how many millaamps each of your pedals draw. Get some splitter cables. 6 of the outputs put out 100mA. 2 of them put out 250mA. So you’ve got 1100 total available. With a few splitters you should have plenty of juice. Just keep any noisier pedals on their own.

3 way daisy chain. pick up a couple of these.

Quality Test. Have to break a rule here, SORRY!!

Items, Old Setup:

Blue Snowball

Shockmount

ProLine Stand

Items, New Setup:

Audio Technica AT2035

Rode PSA1 Stand

Line 6 POD Studio UX2

Required XLR Cable

I also plan on picking up Noctua NH-D14 and an H440 soon to replace my 650D and H100i.

You need the right type of XLR to 3.5mm jack to work properly. It sounds like you've got a balanced XLR to balanced 3.5mm TRS.

What you need is a balanced XLR to unbalanced 3.5mm stereo cable. This one should do the trick.

A simple cable like the one I linked doesn't actually unbalance the audio, it just discards one channel and sends the other to both the L and R on the 3.5mm jack. The reason you have balanced audio to begin with is that it means any interferance picked up by the cable is canceled out.

Ideally you should be using a recorder with balanced XLR inputs to get the best out of the NTG which would give you all the advantages of a balanced microphone. If you want sync audio you can use an attenuator cable to plug the output of the audio recorder into your camera's microphone input.

If you're not getting the effect on some videos then chances are it's a matter of how you edited those videos. You probably just fixed the problem without knowing it was even there by accident!

I was in the same predicament and decided to splurge and get an isolated because I knew I wouldnt regret it. I got the Truetone CS12 but they make a CS7 that super affordable and has lots of power options https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012F2AWMQ

this is what you need

If you want a brand name Amazon.com will get you an Audio Technica adapter for ~3k JPY including shipping.

If you want cheaper/no-name it's all random chinese stuff on ebay anyhow in which case you may as well get it from Aliexpress.

Edit: Well, I failed on the AT one, that's XLR to 1/4" and not even 3.5mm.

> Does anybody know why this is an issue?

The link /u/meateoryears provided should help decipher why - it's basically because your audio interface is connecting to the mic portion of the cable rather than the ground portion.

What you need is an adapter to convert from TRRS to TRS.

This looks like it would do the trick here: https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Little-Blinks-Microphone-Smartphone/dp/B01M0VN5W7/

https://www.amazon.com/EBS-ICY-30-Right-Angle-Insert/dp/B07N6PC5TZ

TS to rca is likely (edit; guess not perhaps with more info from someone with the same interface) the problem as suspected.

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Male-Adapter-Converter-Silver/dp/B01J33CGHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541741190&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=xlr+to+single+rca&psc=1

I think this is it, You can use TRS 1/4” to XLR3 cables/adapters then the xlr 3 to rca adapter

I think you're mistaken about the output/inputs

the Origen doesn't look like it has an RCA out. the analog outputs I can see are 3.5mm and 1/4" TRS, both of which are already in stereo (2 channel)

you just need a TRS splitter to go from the Origen's TRS to each of the Mackies' inputs

one of these and one of these to then connect from that to your RTC - assuming your local music store doesnt just have an XLR to female 6.3mm adapter (they are not all that common)

Which mic?

PC mic jacks provide a ~3-5V plug-in-power standard, studio mics use the ~12-48V phanotm power standard, which is incompatible. If it's a studio standard mic you'll need an external phantom power supply https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Condenser-Recording-Equipment/dp/B01I1OEN7C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486824110

Bought these for my kids Sennheiser GSP 600 Professional Gaming Headset

Overall, pretty good. Comfortable, FAR above average fidelity for a gaming headset, mic is probably one of the best mics I've ever used that is part of a gaming headset. Again, my kids like them.

I personally don't like gaming headsets.

My personal gaming rig does not use "gaming" headsets.

I use regular low end audiophile headphones paired with a mixer + mic.

• beyerdynamic dt990 pro I prefer the open back headphones for the wider soundstage. VERY comfortable for long play sessions.
  
  
• FiiO E17K (E17) Alpen 2 Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC
  
  
• Yamaha MG10XU 10 Channel Mixer
  
  Again this is solely for gaming and not listening to music.
  
  For music it depends what I'm listening to but I have two primary set of cans.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD 800 S Reference Headphone
  
  
• Beyerdynamic T1 2nd Generation
  
  This is my primary amp for music:
  
  
• Sony Signature Series Audio Component Amplifier
  
  I caught the "headphone" bug so I've got tons of mid range cans too e.g. Sennheiser HD660, HD700, a couple of tube amps etc.
  
  Hope it helps.
  
  
  
  

"dirt" pedals are overdrive, fuzz, or distortion pedals because they 'dirty' up your signal

if you're okay with waiting, used is always the best to go in terms of cost. if not, here's a small list of cheap, simple pedals that work

delay:

tc electronic the prophet


joyo d-seed


boss dd-3

joyo delay

donner yellow fall analog delay

reverb:

mosky spring reverb

tc electronic drip

caline snake bite

behringer dr-600

chorus:

mxr analog chorus

joyo classic chorus

biyang chorus

danelectro fab chorus

volume pedal:

ernie ball

boss fv-50h

power supply:

cs7

mxr iso brick

here's a cheap/basic place to start. since you're going simple, most pedals you come across will honestly work with what you want you want to accomplish, it's mostly down to your budget. if you're looking used, you can't go wrong with MXR, boss, and EHX pedals, they're usually everywhere on the used market

Yah. Typical anything “analog” is far less than 10 mA. A big muff is maybe 4, a tube screamer somewhere in there. I believe under supplying mA does not damage stuff it just won’t work right. You can daisy up 8 or 9 on 100 mA, depending how much “noise” you add, and you probably won’t do that either.

Andoer Caline 3 Ways Daisy Chain Multi-interface Connecting 1 to 3 Cable Cord Copper Wire for Guitar Effects Power Supply Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KR7F6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TpX6AbGX2QRJ9

This one will split an existing cable you have rather than plug direct into the power supply. Same difference. I believe this was the one I use unless I did find one a little cheaper.

Yeah you need a TRS splitter of some kind. Here's a really nice low-profile one: https://www.amazon.com/EBS-ICY-30-Right-Angle-Insert/dp/B07N6PC5TZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550179558&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ebs+trs+insert

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077VQ28J2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A 10ft CableCreations cable with a male 3.5mm jack and also a male xlr connection.

Will be plugging into a phone/computer to play music, then send back into the interface to record it.

Hoping it works

Here is a more clear picture of what it appears you're trying to say:
http://www.aviom.com/blog/balanced-vs-unbalanced/

Transition from balanced to unbalanced in any professional/paid scenario should be done with some level of transformer/direct box: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Livewire/SPDI-Passive-Direct-Box-with-Attenuation-Pad-1274319718994.gc

For what OP is doing, it likely will be ok to just use a conversion cable, (I use something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Female-Adaptor-Adapter-Silver/dp/B01J33CGHY/ - ensure you select the right XLR end and RCA end for your application) but just saying "XLRs have better sound output" isn't inherently true.

Hmm.

Does your monitors have an adjustable volume level in the back? I have a pair of monitors that have different dials in the back for EQ and volume levels. (HS80M)

If your levels are adjusted correctly check your connection to your audio interface. Make sure it's not a cable connection. What kind XLR cables do you have? Are they balanced, high quality?

It may be audio interface perhaps with an unbalanced XLR connection? From what your telling me, if you reverse it the opposite side of the monitors have an issue. It would make sense to me that the cables might be defective or the scarlett is defective.

I have a scarlett myself and I notice no problems at all. Make sure you update the driver on the scarlett. It was one of the first things that I did because I had problems with the driver originally that came from the package. I hope that helped a bit. Keep me updated I might be forgetting something.


Edit:
I have these cables btw, if you do find that it is a cable problem. They are awesome and extremely great quality cables. Play around with the cables and routing. It might help you narrow the causes of the issue.

http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-12feet-Cable-Patch/dp/B000RYE5Y6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395031499&sr=8-4&keywords=xlr+cable

Absolutely! These are the first two I would recommend, just to get started auditioning different pairings. The main "rules" are, as you may know, don't cross digital pedals with analog pedals, and keep Strymon(or other high current draw digital) pedals separate and isolated. Feel free to deviate, as long as you are providing enough total mA and keeping the polarity the same.

Easiest is to install an add2psu (its cheaper alt here https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Triple-Power-Connector-Multiple/dp/B072MH3C39/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504932025&sr=1-3&keywords=add2psu)
It basically just tells the second PSU to start up.

The 550 PSU will have 2 8pin connectors and a molex chain, just connect the 8pin to your GPUs and the molex chain to the risers...not too tough.

You will then have 4 cards on the 1000w PSU at around 600w and 2 cards on the 550w at around 300w. All of the PSUs will be under 65% usage and shouldn't have any issues.

Total cost is a whole $29 for that too.

This is unnecessary complication. If you have a 3.5mm to XLR connector, then you can attach any BT receiver and make K361/371/7XX bluetooth enabled. :-)

Since that's an XLR mic, so you need an XLR to USB ADC. This one is cheap and fairly well rated. You can go even cheaper, though the quality will likely be quite poor. Then again, your good mic with even a $10 ADC will likely be at least as good (probably better) than the sort of cheap-ass headsets that most people use for such purposes.

Which kind of forces the question of why you want to use a nice mic just to communicate in chatrooms. You can get a cheap-but-decent wired gaming headset for under $20 and save your nice mic for whatever you normally use it for.

ah my bad i thought you were using a mic and had that problem when using an XLR to 3.5 mm cable

this one worked and this one didn't

Hey, I own a pair of M-Audio AV40 studio monitors and would like to add on a JBL LSR310S subwoofer. Here's how I'm thinking to hook it up, did I get it right?

1. Macbook Pro Headphone Jack
   
2. 1x 3.5mm > Stereo XLR Male
   
3. JBL LSR310S Subwoofer
   
4. 2x XLR Female > TRS Male
   
5. M-Audio AV40

You could go with a Voodoo Labs Iso-5 for what you have now. Or a Truetone CS7 if you think you'll be adding more pedals.

Also, your patch cables are fine. I have those and have no noise with an isolated supply.

Then it may be your monitors. The older revision of these monitors was known for these issues, but they were supposed to have fixed it with the new revision . Are your monitors still within the return period? If so, just get a new pair. If it persists, then you most likely have a ground loop issue. It could be that your BX5’s just have a way of mitigating the noise.

The way I fixed my issue was with a cheap Mpow ground loop isolator from Amazon. Check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2

You will also need cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Breakout-Unbalanced/dp/B07K58FTR8

So I read the manual and there's something a bit more convoluted about this. Aux2 is send/return, but Aux1 is just send. Aux2 return comes back as "FX return."

So mic 1 -> ch1 (fader down) -> aux 1 (prefade, unity) -> compressor -> ch3

Then mic 2 -> ch2 -> aux 2 (unity) <-> compressor via adapter cable, control via FX return

Your adapter cable will send tip/sleeve to compressor input, and ring/sleeve to compressor output from Aux2.

Edit: just realised this won't work on ch2 because the FX send is post-fade only.

Here's a better plan: just use the built-in compressors and skip the furman. It's a podcast, you don't need much compression anyway.

Or put the compressor on the master bus like you noted and use it before the recorder. If you pan the mics hard left and hard right you can actually still get individual control, but then you'd have to fix that later in the recording.

Another plan: just compress them in audacity in post.

Thank you so much for the reply I was starting to lose hope. So would you rather me get the Second choice and a separate phantom power? or should I go for the one you suggested. My roommate has a phantom power supply, I believe it's this one( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1OEN7C/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_boF8F_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=RXN38YZATDXMF0KBAJRM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=152a981b-e661-5184-9490-71a0c291599a&pf_rd_i=11974571 )

Would this work fine or should I just spend the extra 10 on the built in one?

Hey I heard someone say dynamic microphones are better for noisy enviroments because you have to have them closer to you, right? I have no experience with xlr, but would this setup work?

Mic: Shure SM 58
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQRSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Mic Holder:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEHM8U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311BEHFUHRLQM

Mic Stand: Rode PSA1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7UYBO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (I think since the mic is dynamic, I don't need it right?)

Phantom Power ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XUUXB8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

XLR Cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD6O342M484G6

XLR to USB cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6WZGHS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1155GBV4DPEXU (If I don't need phantom power, I just need this cable right?)

Generic wind screen:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I know this isn't ideal because I need like a mixer or something, but would it work decently? I would prefer if the price stayed the same, this is pushing my budget a bit.

Oh, and do I need an adapter for my microphone to go into the stand, stuff like that.

It's a dynamic microphone, so there's not going to be a problem with phantom power. That was my first concern. Other than that it should work, but you probably want an XLR to 3.5mm cable (Links: US | UK) instead. Also, why don't you just connect directly to your phone and remove the wireless system, if you're already using a wired microphone?

^This ^post ^contains ^affiliate ^links.

This is the one i bought and has been working fine for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MH3C39/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The power draw from the molex isn't much at all. It's just enough to trip the relay when your computer turns on. That relay then connects the 2 pins on your 2nd psu's connector. It's no different than using a jumper wire to turn on a psu to prime a watercooling setup.

Check out Reverb.com for buying some used pedals. That will help make things fit into your budget. You can find a DS-1 for around $30 on there. A used crybaby for roughly $40. The MXR is actually a phaser and not a chorus so I'll address that in the phaser section.

As for the other stuff, I highly recommend the TC Electronic Sub 'n' Up as an octave ($100 used or for the mini on reverb.com).

The Vox Delaylab is a ton of delay for not a lot of money if you want tap tempo and all that fancy stuff ($125 used on reverb.com). Plus, if you don't use delay and tremolo at the same time then you can set up the delaylab to do a trem type thing.

The Trelicopter is a really great trem (the guys on That Pedal Show have demoed it before). It gets rebranded by various companies so just find the cheapest one. If you want some more features then check out the TC Electronic Tremolo that just came out.

As for phasers, you can pick up an old Boss PH-3 for $50 used a lot of places. I don't have a lot of experience with other ones, but I'm sure you could get a phase 95 pretty cheap ($90).

After all of that you should have spent roughly $375-420. So you still have a good amount of money for a solid power supply and cables. Get yourself a Truetone CS7 which is fully isolated, has great power ratings if you want to add more pedals, and is fairly inexpensive ($120). Now you still have about $60 for patch cables. Go cheap or get good quality ones. You're definitely gonna be under $60 for 6-8 patch cables.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

Would this work? To connect a Scarllet Solo to a at2020 Mic

It would work, but that amp is tiny enough that it's likely to distort pretty fast with any volume. Still worth buying an adapter and trying. If you only need a little extra volume that could be enough.

They're probably outside your budget. This would work and should be budget friendly:

6Ft XLR Female to 3.5mmm Mono Male Cable $5.99.
Headphones/Mic splitter TRRS, $6.99.
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid pattern, $19.99.
Total investment per person: $32.97

Edit: I'm assuming with this setup that everyone has a smartphone. If a newer iPhone, you'd need an additional lightning to 3.5mm adapter. Ugh.

no, you don't need ICs, you need like $20 and the right cables.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/

plus

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K59J42N/

It's gonna be hard to get it in under $75, but in your position here's what I'd do:

Get one of these Audio Technica cardioid lavalier mics. While it's designed to be a lavalier mic, it is directional and can be used on a boom when needed. This mic requires "plug-in" power and will work with most DSLRs. (Check your camera first). You can record on a smart phone with this adapter.

You'll also need an extension cable. While a headphone extension cable will work, one made for a microphone will be shielded and less likely to pick up noise. Since this is an unbalanced microphone, you should be careful to keep the cable away from any kind of power cord.

Because this mic is so lightweight you can use almost anything for a boom. I have used an old fishing pole, but a broom handle or even a straightened coat hanger will work. Let the mic hang straight down from the boom, leaving about 6-10 inches of cable. Hold it just above the people's heads, just in front of them, as close as possible without being in the shot.

I have used this mic on quite a few films and commercials (including a film that's now on Amazon Video) and the quality is remarkably good. Working on several films in Europe where it was essential to travel very light, this mic was a lifesaver.

That's about as close as I can come to $75!

Hope this helps.

as for headphones I'm not really sure what to recommend, as there are so many options and I'm not sure what your preferences are, but maybe take a look at the Sony MDR7506 (these are ~$75 USD, but can be had for less in the used market as they have been in production for like 20 years) and the Phillips shp9500 ($70-80, open back, great all-arounder)

for the mic this is a very good and inexpensive setup, as long as your PC has decent built in sound card (I use this exact setup and often get compliments on my mic quality, you can't beat it for ~$40 total)

Mic: Behringer Ultravoice XM8500

Mic Stand: Innogear Mic Stand

Mic Cable: 3.5mm to XLR cable

sorry my prices are in USD, not sure about the price difference in CAN

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Microphone-Condenser-Recording-Equipment/dp/B01I1OEN7C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=neewer+48v&qid=1563905988&s=gateway&sr=8-2

The headphone out is a stereo (TRS) connection. If you're plugging a mono (TS) guitar cable into it, you're going to get phase cancellation issues.

I would suggest getting a 1/4" TRS to 2 x 1/4" TS cable similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-Insert-Cable-Adapter/dp/B006ZBZC6U and just using either the left or right channel into the mixer.

This is all you need to get the Bluetooth signal. You can leave it plugged in so that it won't run out of battery, but you may have to pair it again when you're away for a while as most Bluetooth devices will turn off automatically when disconnected and idle.

Then you just plug it into a cable like this and you should be good to go.

/u/Tagaloob - if you can't afford a boom, I recommend you download the [free Rode Rec LE app] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8&at=1000l8mT) and record your sound to a single iPhone with Movo PM20 dual lavaliers and a 6 meter extension cable on your actors/talent and sync the sound in the edit.

Here is how this works (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):

• [Filmmaking made smarter - RØDE smartLav] (https://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo)
  
  The PM20 is [$29.95 in the US] (http://www.amazon.com/Movo-PM20-Dual-Headed-Omnidirectional-Smartphones/dp/B00X8470MQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), [£27.95 in the UK] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00X8470MQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00X8470MQ&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and [35,95€ in Europe] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00X8470MQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00X8470MQ&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21).
  
  The extension cable is [$12.95 in the US] (http://www.amazon.com/Movo-PM10EC6-Microphone-Extension-Smartphones/dp/B00X85S7EA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), [£11.95 in the UK] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00X85S7EA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00X85S7EA&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and [15,95€ in Europe] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00X85S7EA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00X85S7EA&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) [Referral Links].
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your film!
  

My current go-to in this price range is a mix of a Yamaha MG10XU mixer or Scarlett Solo interface with a Shure SM57.

SM57 is a really nice sounding dynamic mic for $100, and sounds pretty much equal to the SM7b and 58 in some videos I watched. This fuzzy thing will also act as a nice pop filter for it and is pretty cheap. I've got one of those big round mesh ones and it still lets some heavy Ps and Ts through, so look at some videos if you go that route.

I personally like to tweak with things in hardware, so i'd go with the Yamaha board since it has a ton of features, but if you just want to plug in the mic to something nice then the Scarlett is also fantastic. I've also been using this Neewer arm for about 6 years, and it does the job.

Headphones wise, I've used the AudioTechnica M50x a few times before and honestly they're the best headphones I've ever heard myself. I also see a lot of people praising the Beyerdynamic DT 990s too.

Many laptops will not work with TRRS jacks. Just grab a TRRS to TRS adapter

Something like this (?): https://www.amazon.com/CESS-Female-Balanced-Microphone-Adapter/dp/B01KBYZDWY

Although most mixers have dedicated headphone 1/4” outs for monitoring. What mixer are you using?

This is an "Impedance Matching Transformer", meaning it will match the microphone level to a line level. Here's some info on why you can't just use a normal adapter:

"It's not the best way to do it, but it works. People do it all the time. Microphones output a 'low impedance signal' whereas guitars output a 'high impedance signal.'

"This subject can get very complicated, but suffice to say that low impedance is microphones, and high impedance is line level outputs (synthesizers, guitars, amplified signals).

"Mismatching results in a very distinct tonal shift, or heavy distortion depending on the level of mismatch."

-Some dude on a forum

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/low-end-theory/343776-huge-noob-question-can-you-plug-mic-into-guitar-effects-pedal.html

Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002CZYFC/ref=ya_st_dp_summary