Best thermostat controllers according to redditors
We found 10 Reddit comments discussing the best thermostat controllers. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 10 Reddit comments discussing the best thermostat controllers. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
A big part of the plan next year is to install a control box for the swamp cooler that will allow us to tie it into the Ecobee. This is the one I think we'll be getting then.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F65KTM
I think that should do the trick, and we've already had to run new wire through the attic for the furnace so it won't be too bad for the swamp cooler.
I do have a followup on my install that I'm editing the first post to include, too.
OK, this looks like it will work. Make sure Fan control is set to thermostat, not HVAC. Trick here is that in superdehumidification mode, you cannot simply bridge O and Y because then you lose the ability to heat (Y closed, O open). The following can be connected on either the thermostat side or the air handler side.
Purchase a 24vac DPST-NO or DPDT relay, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Emerson-90-340-Switching-Relay-24V/dp/B00BTLN9ES/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1524075911&sr=8-15&keywords=DPDT+24vac+relay If you get the DPDT (more common), utilize only the NO (normally open) connections on the switches. On the relay, connect 1 side of coil to ecobee ACC+, other side to common. Connect one side of switch 1 to R and other side to O. Connect one side of switch 2 to R and other side to Y. In ecobee setup, configure for 1-wire accessory, dehumidifier.
This product does exist, though most of the ones I've seen are sold in Europe, where the situation you describe is apparently more common.
But there are at least two or three manufacturers making these using various protocols. On a quick search, this is the only one I can find though. Elgato Eve Thermo - App enabled Thermostatic Radiator Valve. This works with Apple's HomeKit, which is a good system for someone who doesn't need a lot of complexity and isn't planning to really dive into home automation--but only if you're already in the Apple ecosystem or want to be.
Since you want temp sensors to talk to the radiator valves, you need at least a bare-bones control system for your valves and sensors. There are many options for the system to do what you want and much more, but I encourage you to NOT jump at the first thing recommended without doing all your research to understand what the end-user experience is like with any system you're considering.
Some systems require a LOT of technical knowledge, others very little. Some systems do a LOT, and some very little. Some systems guard your privacy, others turn you into a product. You have to choose the one that's right for you.
That said, the right system for me is Indigo. I would never use anything else as the central control system. But is it right for you? I have no idea. And neither does anyone else here blithely recommending what they use.
That's because I don't know what your technical skills and preferences are, what you need to do, what your budget is, and how much things like local execution and privacy mean to you. Hint: Alexa doesn't care about your privacy.
Thanks! A few more (possibly dumb) questions:
I was going to get this [this] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/KOMODO-82320-Komodo-Thermostat-100/dp/B006PGCLK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1413233264&sr=1-4&keywords=reptile+thermostat) but I've cancelled it and I'll go to my local reptile shop and get one tomorrow morning. Thanks!
The two power supplies as far as the peltiers 'see' is the same thing as having one big one. I do think it may prove to be simpler wiring this way though, as you don't really want to mess with a bigger gauge wire than 8. I agree 8-10 is fine for this, I wouldn't go smaller. Make sure everything is fused.
Just think about what happens if the peltier gets too hot, would be good to have a way to trip the system and prevent things from going bad fast. The good news is thermal switches are not that expensive
edit: I think these are all normally-closed, you can select the temp you need. Make sure to analyze whether you need a normally-closed or normally-open switch for how you want to trip your system.
these ones are only rated for 5A, would be nice to have a few in paralell that could trip the whole unit off at a certian level - if it was a computer power supply you could use a bunch of normally-closed ones in series and use that on the pin that allows the PSU to turn on. Can also have one for each peltier and they can turn themselves on and off dynamically.
Uxcell KSD301 90C 194F NC Normal Close Thermostat Temperature Thermal Switch (5 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDMKM72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i3nMAbCXPF6QD
5 layer pot?
It appears to be a standard pot with integrated on/off switch
Edit: like these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/mlt/B00H8RKERW/ref=psd_mlt_dp_click_B00H8RKERW?showV2=0
Note the connections to the board, the pot on/off is red/black, this is where you would put your power switch (I doubt it would work as a brake unless specified as such)
Never used for charcuterie but I have set up coolers with Peltiers. It's easier to buy one with the ducting installed already (like a Coleman type 12v unit) and wire in a good temp controller (my lab needed tight +/- 2C (not super tight)) temp control. I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-12V-Cooler-Warmer-Capacity/dp/B00NHBYOA6/ and wired in something like this to control the temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8BD8H6/
The one you linked is not available in time for when I plan to install the floor heating element (this weekend). Would you be able to tell me if this one would work the same?
Additionally, the wiring diagram for it shows connection for a "floor sensor", but floor sensors can't be one-size-fits-all right? Also worried about how would the sensor be calibrated?