Best thread metric inserts & repair kits according to redditors

Wheels Mfg makes an insert or you could use a M10x1.0 thread repair

You should use a helicoil in order to keep the M5 size. If you buy a kit for m5 helicoils it will come with the drill bit, the tap, the helicoil, and a helicoil installation tool. You can use a steel or Stainless steel helicoil and it will be a much stronger connection than it was before.

Something like this

I would be hesitant to use a glue or filler to put the bolt back in place. Instead, you could use what's called a Helicoil thread insert.

Using a specific tap, you increase the size of the threads in the hole, then thread a coil into the new tapped hole that will now take the original size bolt.

The brake caliper mount should be a M5 x .8 mm thread.
[Here's](https://smile.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-5-Metric-Coarse-
Thread/dp/B000BB8XLG?sa-no-redirect=1) a link to a helicoil kit that includes a tap and several inserts.

You could also have a shop put a time-sert in your existing oil pan.

I can do one in 30 minutes.

Have you heard of this product? (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zj5QDbWCHA5JV)

As others have said, replace the copper washer and see if that helps. I would not recommend going to a bigger size; the drain bolt area on CRF crankcases isn't giant, and going much bigger to an M10 will be pushing it.

Instead, get a helicoil repair kit, a new washer, and a new bolt.

Copper washer part # 90474-333-000
Drain bolt part # 96300-08025-00 (for 04-09, later years are different)
Cheap repair kit, but probably overkill for a single hole, and I'm not sure of the thread type of the drain bolt: https://www.amazon.com/Tek-Motion-Stripped-Rethread-Helicoil/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3ADEYE2MJQNFTSSY1E3

Best of luck.

Not to be an asshole but do you know what you're doing? How long have you been riding? an R1 is a hell of a bike for a new rider and that machine does not look like it's mechanically sound.

You say you got it on a trade for a couple hundred dollars?

First thing I see is that your radiator exhaust hose looks shot. Stator cover is obviously removed already; given that your threads do appear done for it may be possible to use Helicoil to go up a diameter and re-thread.

As far as removing the actual stator motor you'll need a pulley puller installer kit. That will give you the correct nut and you can rent them from an auto store. See this video for reference: https://youtu.be/3A5-g6OnYRI

Once the new stator is installed and new threads bored - even if you fail on a few of the threads you should still get a sufficient enough threading from a few of the bolts for the cover to stay on.

That said you need to seriously go over the rest of that bike. There's no telling what the previous guy did.

I did that once. I had to buy a Time-Sert kit to repair it.

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Thats pretty good drilling. Very nice.

I would try 3 things.

Take a small sharp punch and hammer. Gently tap the part of the old bolt and unscrew it.

Continue drilling and rethread the hole using https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21669-16-inch-Drill/dp/B000BQW6F0/ but use the correct size for the stud you have. Seek out a "blind hole" or Bottom chamfer tap if possible. Same thing, different name. Start with the first one, finish with second one. If you notice the cutting part is almost to the end of the second one. That allows you to get to the bottom of the hole.

The last resort is https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK same thing, figure out the size you need first. These are just examples. your actual size is probably different.

That hole thread is M3x0.5mm you can probably buy a tap from a local store, amazon, or ebay, for very little money. I use a standard cordless drill to retap threads all the time.

Here is a link to the correct tap on amazon.com:

https://www.amazon.com/CoCocina-Industrial-Metric-Taper-Thread/dp/B07NL5NRR7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=M3x0.5%2Btap&qid=1555207261&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

If its too badly stripped then you can use a 'heli coil' to put new steel threads into the hole. A machine shop can do this but will be very expensive unless they do I out of the kindness of their heart.

Here is a link to the correct heli coil set on amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/Helical-Thread-Repair-Kit-M3x0-5/dp/B007IBSG0U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=m3x0.5+helicoil&qid=1555207351&s=gateway&sr=8-1

This is sadly pretty common for 1998-2006 BMWs. Always use a torque wrench and a fresh crush washer. Just one Jiffy Lube visit can necessitate a new drain pan or a fix. There are numerous fixes available though:

This is the legit fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I went with this self-tap oversized plug to fix my busted threads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use the cheap oversized method, make sure to actually tap the hole with the plug -- few turns in, back it out, clean, etc.

I bought a backtap for my spark plug hole on my bike. The hex portion was 1/2” and further down the shaft of the backtap. Powerbuilt 640811 Back-Tap Thread... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014FGVVW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640811-Back-Tap-Thread-Repair/dp/B0014FGVVW

Expanding tap. You grease the shit out of it, put it in, expand it into the existing threads then back the whole thing out of the hole. It cuts (more like un-distorts) the messed up threads on the way out and any chips come back out with the tap. I'm not endorsing that particular brand or model, it's just for reference. Make sure you do a really good job of getting it seated in good threads or you'll be doing a heli-coil.

I think a helicoil will solve my woes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SGZ93D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SREP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Did this to mine last month, worked great. Don't forget red loctite on the helicoils

Edit: and a 21/64" drill bit to clean out the old threads

Shoutout to /u/MetaKLR for telling me about this

Sounds like the threads are stripped out in yon screw holes.

If the screws are machine thread (M5, M4, whatever) pick up the appropriate Helicoil kit and repair the stripped out holes.

If the screws are more of a wood screw type thread, fill the holes with some goo like JB Weld, let it cure, drill a small pilot hole and screw away.

I had this happen on my RZR. I got the plug out my using my impact drill in reverse. It eventually caught and came right out. From there I went to replace the oil pan, but learned it couldn't be replaced without pulling the whole engine. I ended up using one of these kits. It wasn't cheap, but you're replacing aluminum threads with a steel insert, so it's a pretty solid permanent fix.

In your case I'd probably just replace the pan since you have access.

Time sert kit is $90. Only 10% of total bike purchase price ffs lol

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TRP8756

Vs helicoil 25pc kit at 12.89

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Compatible-Thread-Repair-Insert/dp/B01N2HLYCA/ref=asc_df_B01N2HLYCA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312356819466&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14650464011811877410&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031026&hvtargid=pla-633744783837&psc=1

Should be M8x1.25. I’m a big fan of Time Serts over heli coils. Uses a full insert over just the coil.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MSPN7NH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511047791&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=m8+time+sert&dpPl=1&dpID=515%2BY3d9T7L&ref=plSrch

You've never heard of Helicoil? The thread repair kit?

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

even that...

Dude, i'm talking like $20. What's that, like $26.22AUD?
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

Amazon in Australia sucks... Here's a eBay link:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhelicoil.TRS0&_nkw=helicoil&_sacat=0

Really though, i'd just thru-bolt it. you're not going to be able to tap it bigger because the slide in the brake that the bolt goes though wont be bigger... so a bigger bolt wont fit.

you can even see what i mean just by looking at the knuckle where the brake goes:
http://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/styles/product_large/public/product_images/26914.jpg?itok=W6VgZPRk

I just ordered this Heli-Coil thread repair kit. It seems like a good option to keep the stock bolts all 6mm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKPXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has really good reviews too!

Another, perhaps better option than any of the above, is form-a-thread...I've never used it, and I'd never use it on any 'serious' bolt, but with the redundancy and very low torque spec of an oilpan bolt, it might be worth a try.

https://smile.amazon.com/Stripped-Thread-Repair-12-9mL-Gray/dp/B003THIZVW/ref=sr_1_1

Probably can get it or something like it cheaper locally.

I didn't but it's recommended to do so. Make sure to get the short insert.

If you're worried, about the strength of the threads then you can use the strainer bolt instead of the drain plug for your oil changes


TIME-SERT M12 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/


TIME-SERT Metric Steel Insert M12X1.5X6.7MM Part # 12157 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RQN042/

A time sert would be a more permanent solution, just be sure to use anti seize on the plug. When i was working auto parts i had to break it to a guy that the spark plug he had was fused to an off brand time sert.

Harley XL1200C uses an autolite 4164 which has a thread pitch of 12mm x 1.25


M12x1.25 time sert kit

Helicoil might work

No mechanic will split the cases for a stripped drain plug. There is enough metal in those pans to get an oversized self tapping drain plug from autozone and thread it in.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/12mm-MAGNETIC-OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-BOLT-YAMAHA-OLDER-YZ125-YZ426F-WR426F-YZ85-TTR250-/151004145653

That is likely your drain plug, which means that you'll need the timesert:

http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4

After you drill I would take an air hose with a long extension, insert it deep through the hole and start pumping in air. You can alternate between that and carb cleaner with the red straw. if you take it slow with the drill and re thread all the metal should be within an inch of the drain. As long as you insert the red tube or air nozzle beyond an inch deep it should blow the metal out, not in.

http://m.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-with-2-ft-extension-68257.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

After that I would fill the resevoir with oil, leave the bolt out, pull the spark plug, and crank it. That'll flow oil into the bottom of the case and out the drain, flushing out the remaining particles.

EDIT: make sure to stop cranking before you run out of oil. Should only take a few seconds of cranking.

If you don't want to spend the 100 bucks on the timesert,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ESCY3W/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31SAT3CwMsL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C75_&refRID=0HK5JPGWZW877MTKEGKZ

There's a package of 5 self tapping drain plugs for 10 bucks.

I don't think that bolt you're using is correct. The threads on the mounting clamp bolt are M10 x 1.5. It's hard to see but the threads in the base don't look too mangled so that bolt must just be smaller than 10mm.

I don't know how firmly that threaded insert is mounted in the base or how much metal is left to drill it out and tap it to the next bolt size. The cleanest repair procedure when you have to maintain the original thread size is to use a Helicoil. Essentially you drill the hole out larger and insert a Helicoil to bring it back down to the original size.

The correct kit is this one..... https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-10-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002SRF80

A helicoil is a coil of "wire" that can get threaded into a larger diameter hole, which will then become the threads for a smaller diameter bolt or stud. Here's a kit so you can get an idea of what you'll need:
Amazon Helicoil

That would definitely be your best route, especially since you have all the tools you'll need. Keep in mind that link was just an example. You will need to find the correct size and thread count for your application.