Best toggle anchors according to redditors
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best toggle anchors. We ranked the 11 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best toggle anchors. We ranked the 11 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
My home was built in 1898 and I've got a tv hanging on the wall with no problem.
You have to use plaster wall toggle anchors, not those plastic ones they sell at ikea.
for the television I tediously searched for studs, they do exist in there, and attached a thick piece of plywood to them. Then I screwed the tv mount to the plywood. Been holding strong for 5+ years.
Ok, so there is a LOT of bad advice in here. I will tell you what I would do as someone who has installed over 80 tvs in the past two years on a variety of building types.
get the screw in type or toggle anchors and they will be plenty strong. people hang TV's using these, even without studs.
if you can get one stud, they should provide enough resistance against the "pull out of the wall" force, even if the other side is only held in by drywall anchors.
Or this kind......
https://smile.amazon.com/Glarks-24Pcs-Plated-Toggle-Assortment/dp/B07DJ3RPP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=LJPJ4W7AHL1P&keywords=toggle+bolts&qid=1570668956&sprefix=toggle+%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHMUhWM1JVWVZPUkUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1OTY2NzEySkhCWENCVkFSQjdXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTA1MzMxMlRWUDNCVlFNVEJCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Togglers.
We use these to hang TV and speaker mounts (obviously one side in a stud). The bolt can be unscrewed and re-inserted without losing the end in the wall which is nice. I'm not sure if these can fit with your mounting bracket for the mirror though.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bHowDbY7PZCQ3
Or toggle bolts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJG3CQY/
It's actually really easy. Get that anchor out of there. Go buy a toggle bolt that will fit in the big hole you have now. Use it. They are cheap and available at any hardware store. They will hold better than the other style anchor also. Here is a link for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fastener-5024-Toggle-Anchor/dp/B001003YFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1371227742&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolt
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ
This would be my guess
Remove the doors by lifting them off the track. There's usually a small stopper under the wheels that needs to be removed first. Be very careful with the doors, they are tempered glass and the slightest bang on the edge will shatter them.
Remove the bar and then the cup/bracket on the left. Odds are very high there's not a stud behind the wall where that's screwed in. In a perfect world you would have a stud there to screw into. To add one would mean destroying your shower tile etc, not worth the effort. Here's a simpler fix. Purchase some of these from Home Depot or Amazon.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IAQN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sMiYDbMAE4W3K
Install one of these in place of whatever is there now and seal everything with clear silicone. Put everything back and enjoy your shower.
Check the other side since you have it off anyway.
You can get more heavy duty anchors, either larger steel ones that you screw into the drywall (those might not hold with the holes you already have) , or the kind that you push together through a hole (like the one that's already there) that open up after you push them through the drywall.
​
Something like this :
https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-24-Pcs-Assortment-Hanging-Drywall/dp/B07GJG3CQY/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=heavy+duty+wall+anchors&qid=1571253656&sr=8-16
In any case, if your curtain rod is really heavy and the wall is old and crumbly you might be screwed.
You don't need studs. I installed mine in drywall using these they are amazing and super easy to use. All I need is a little spackle to patch up the holes when I leave.
I use a combination of these into the stud and or in the void for everything from my mounted Tv's to a bike rack.
For the stud portion of your mount:
FastenMaster Headloks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OEJULG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lag+screw+spider&dpPl=1&dpID=317en472JRL&ref=plSrch
And these in the void between studs:
Toggled SnapToggler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBBUE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toggle+bolts&dpPl=1&dpID=410A7FjjAcL&ref=plSrch
We use THESE when installing heavier drapery rods that can't be attached to a stud. Very sturdy, easy to work with, and removable in the future.
Just throwing this out here... no idea if it would work well... may actually be a terrible idea:
Although generally used for drywall, Snaptoggles are insanely strong. Maybe you could install these into a few trusses? The Amazon link doesn't mention it, but the manufacturer's page shows this specific product to be 9-1/2" long and rated for well over 200 lbs/anchor in 1/2-inch drywall.
Again, just a crazy idea. Don't sue me if the chair falls and somebody breaks their ass. :)
I've had this issues with a towel bar last summer. What I think you'll end up finding out when you disassemble the unit is that the screws that hold the bar into the wall have shifted or moved.
It's a big issue with towel bars because the weight of the towel(s) cause it to deform over time.
I fixed it by unscrewing both ends of the units and removing the screws that hold the bar to the drywall and reinstalling it with toggle bolts (see: http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-370054-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453079586&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolt). The toggle bolt will make sure that it won't shift over time, and it's super sturdy!
AV installer here. A single stud is just fine for a tilt mount it will hold the weight and then some. And frankly you don’t need the 4 additional bolts. Bolts a drywall don’t mix you need drywall toggles and one on each side. The toggles are simply keeping the mount from rotating the strength is on the stud.
These are what I’m talking about:
https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=asc_df_B0051IARUE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312360540451&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10502080946968211216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060467&hvtargid=pla-641936376392&psc=1
You need these or these.
Those are good bolts, you need to hold them so they don't spin while being tightened. Use a manual screw driver, not electric. You might find toggle bolts easier to use. The trick is to tighten them enough to hold but not so much that they crush the plaster. Patch the old holes and drill the new ones at least 50mm away. The weight is limited by the strength of the plasterboard. I wouldn't want to do more than a few kg on a ceiling. If you drill and bolt straight into the metal studs it can hold way more.
These might work TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 50) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0Z2IDbA64HQE7
Plaster also has lath behind it which was used as something for the plaster to grab onto. Thin pieces of wood that span the studs. If you use the zip anchors I posted above then they would grab the lath from behind using the wood as an anchor.
Tough call though cause if you somehow don't hit the lath your plaster is going to pull right out in a big chunk when you mount the object.
I just mean they aren’t bigger than the board or the space on the wall if it’s open below (I didn’t go back and look.) if it sticks down below where the board is in the wall you may just hit open drywall, and then you want an anchor. I like the zip anchors. They’re a bit more expensive but easy and strong. For example
Simpson Strong-Tie FT25250R100 1/4"-20 FlipToggle Anchor with 2-1/2" Bolt, 100 ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072B8G648/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Kjx0Db9800A6S
The plastic anchor will not work with plaster walls.
For that picture, I would attach a wire between the two hangers on the back of the frame, so you only need one hook in the wall.
You can use a molly bolt or toggle bolt if you are really worried about the weight.
You can use larger anchors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Self-Drilling/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633742&sr=1-6&keywords=drywall+anchors
OR Toggle Bolts like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633819&sr=1-4&keywords=toggle+bolts
You kinda can't, at least not easily. It's easy enough to fix holes in drywall by patching them, but those fixes are not really structural enough to hang a towel bar from unless you go big and cut a giagantic rectangle out of the drywall and hang a replacement drywall by screwing it into the studs.
But if you don't mind moving the bar up, down, left, or right a few inches you can just sink new drywall anchors into solid drywall and patch the old holes.
Alternately, there's giant "winged" toggle bolt drywall anchors that will be serious overkill to hold a towel bar but can go into the bigger hole.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DL9MVN7/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got mine from a local hardware store. You could probably get away with something less, but I wanted to err on the side of caution.
I've had a lot of luck with these: http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Toggle-Bolt-Fastener/dp/B0051IARUE
My tv hangs from 4 of them. Crazy strong.
Is there a reason why something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510756607&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolts
won't work?
These can hold a remarkable amount of weight.
I would drill through the cinderblock and use something like these (at least 4). I've used them countless times on drywall and block walls for mounting articulating mounts and I've yet to have one fail. Their adjustable nature will help deal with the extra space between your drywall and the interior of the blocks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051IAQN2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1