Best anchors according to redditors
We found 127 Reddit comments discussing the best anchors. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 127 Reddit comments discussing the best anchors. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You shouldn't need a drill and screw to hang pictures in drywall, you just need a nail and a picture hanger like this.
Whenever you do need a screw for future reference, I recommend self drilling drywall anchors like these. No drill required, just a screwdriver, they're super easy.
You don't need a guy for these things ;) You just need the right things for the right applications. I got pretty frustrated once when trying to screw a wood screw into a stud and the screw broke, because I had to hang my shelf in a different spot thanks to the spoken screw.
My home was built in 1898 and I've got a tv hanging on the wall with no problem.
You have to use plaster wall toggle anchors, not those plastic ones they sell at ikea.
for the television I tediously searched for studs, they do exist in there, and attached a thick piece of plywood to them. Then I screwed the tv mount to the plywood. Been holding strong for 5+ years.
Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!
Some Buckmark pointers:
If you're feeling adventurous:
#4-8 drywall anchors make the best rimfire snap caps
Ok, so there is a LOT of bad advice in here. I will tell you what I would do as someone who has installed over 80 tvs in the past two years on a variety of building types.
get the screw in type or toggle anchors and they will be plenty strong. people hang TV's using these, even without studs.
if you can get one stud, they should provide enough resistance against the "pull out of the wall" force, even if the other side is only held in by drywall anchors.
Don’t listen everyone freaking out about finding studs. If you have actual drywall and not plaster, then anchors are perfectly fine. I’ve had a 42” tv mounted to drywall for 8 years using 6 of these anchors because I’m German, and I like engineering overkill. Each one holds 50 lbs.
Or this kind......
https://smile.amazon.com/Glarks-24Pcs-Plated-Toggle-Assortment/dp/B07DJ3RPP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=LJPJ4W7AHL1P&keywords=toggle+bolts&qid=1570668956&sprefix=toggle+%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHMUhWM1JVWVZPUkUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1OTY2NzEySkhCWENCVkFSQjdXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTA1MzMxMlRWUDNCVlFNVEJCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Just make sure you screw into studs next time, or use properly rated drywall anchors.
https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW
Disclaimer: I work for the company that makes those, they are really awesome though.
We use these to hang TV and speaker mounts (obviously one side in a stud). The bolt can be unscrewed and re-inserted without losing the end in the wall which is nice. I'm not sure if these can fit with your mounting bracket for the mirror though.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bHowDbY7PZCQ3
Depending on how much weight you're talking about hanging it's usually best if you can find a stud to directly screw into.
In absence of that being an option, self drilling drywall anchors are the next best option. You could use something like THESE to go directly to where the old smaller anchors it appears you have were at.
https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-Together/dp/B013SBBUGK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485996679&sr=8-7&keywords=drywall+anchor
200lb shear rating
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ
This would be my guess
Go to the local hardware store and get a larger screw in anchor, like these: Drywall Anchor.
They come in different sizes, get one slightly larger than the hole.
Alternatively you can use a toggle bolt.
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-3-Outlet-Extension-20-Feet/dp/B00004SQHS
http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchor/dp/B0051IB63Q
There, solved your problems for less than $20.
Get drywall anchors that screw in to the drywall...so easy to install and they won't come loose:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Anchors/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VQ1FV9RWB0879XRK0A20
Or toggle bolts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJG3CQY/
You can get more heavy duty anchors, either larger steel ones that you screw into the drywall (those might not hold with the holes you already have) , or the kind that you push together through a hole (like the one that's already there) that open up after you push them through the drywall.
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Something like this :
https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-24-Pcs-Assortment-Hanging-Drywall/dp/B07GJG3CQY/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=heavy+duty+wall+anchors&qid=1571253656&sr=8-16
In any case, if your curtain rod is really heavy and the wall is old and crumbly you might be screwed.
If you want something snapcap-like to stick in the chamber of a .22LR so you can dry-fire without hurting the firing pin or chamber, get a box of 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch Plastic Screw Anchors.
It takes the same 10s of shots to ruin the rim on them as "real" .22 snapcaps that cost an order of magnitude more, it's soft enough that even if you really fuck up nothing will get hurt, and they'll usually even feed from a magazine.
You don't need studs. I installed mine in drywall using these they are amazing and super easy to use. All I need is a little spackle to patch up the holes when I leave.
I'm a huge fan of the Toggler brand anchors when I can't screw into a stud. You can find them at Home Depot as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBDKW/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=411M9VM3Z7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0FRF2AFFC415N447ZJGT
Homedone Drywall Anchor 50-Pack - 2 Different Sizes, Self-Drilling with Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVU4Z68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8PrxzbGDEQ8MP
I've used these with good results only downside is the huge hole they leave if you remove them.
They make smaller ones but I can't find them on Amazon that are rated for the 50 lbs and take a 7/32" drill bit to install.
I'd recommend just going to the hardware store they have a huge selection typically.
I use a combination of these into the stud and or in the void for everything from my mounted Tv's to a bike rack.
For the stud portion of your mount:
FastenMaster Headloks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OEJULG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lag+screw+spider&dpPl=1&dpID=317en472JRL&ref=plSrch
And these in the void between studs:
Toggled SnapToggler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBBUE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toggle+bolts&dpPl=1&dpID=410A7FjjAcL&ref=plSrch
These are my favorite kind of snap toggles I've used so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051IBDKW/
Some of these bad boys outta do the trick. The link I posted is just for reference, you obviously wanna make sure you get the right size. They’re metal wall anchors, they’re usually helpful for quickly getting screws into drywall like when putting a shelf up. They leave a nasty hole behind when you take them out but for your case it shouldn’t matter. Even better, slather the outer threads of them with some epoxy and screw them in for extra grip.
I've had this issues with a towel bar last summer. What I think you'll end up finding out when you disassemble the unit is that the screws that hold the bar into the wall have shifted or moved.
It's a big issue with towel bars because the weight of the towel(s) cause it to deform over time.
I fixed it by unscrewing both ends of the units and removing the screws that hold the bar to the drywall and reinstalling it with toggle bolts (see: http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-370054-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453079586&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolt). The toggle bolt will make sure that it won't shift over time, and it's super sturdy!
I like these anchors for hanging on hollow wall.
200 lbs Drywall Anchor Mounting Kit for Wall Mounting Without Studs or Through Metal/Steel Studs to Mount TVs, Grab Bar, Etc. Includes:1/2" Drill Bit, 4 X 200lbs SNAPTOGGLE Anchors, 4 Screws+Washers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3L966N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rhnSDbZTKKRV6
Follow the directions about what size drill bit. You won’t need masonry bit for plaster.
Remove the doors by lifting them off the track. There's usually a small stopper under the wheels that needs to be removed first. Be very careful with the doors, they are tempered glass and the slightest bang on the edge will shatter them.
Remove the bar and then the cup/bracket on the left. Odds are very high there's not a stud behind the wall where that's screwed in. In a perfect world you would have a stud there to screw into. To add one would mean destroying your shower tile etc, not worth the effort. Here's a simpler fix. Purchase some of these from Home Depot or Amazon.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IAQN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sMiYDbMAE4W3K
Install one of these in place of whatever is there now and seal everything with clear silicone. Put everything back and enjoy your shower.
Check the other side since you have it off anyway.
I make and install curtains for a living, this is my time to shine!
First things first, other posters are correct that you’re going to need to patch the drywall and use drywall anchors for your next attempt. Do not use any of the screws or anchors included with the curtain rod, you need to get the right hardware for your wall which probably means longer screws as well as better anchors. These are the kind of drywall anchors we use.
I assume you’ve got premade curtains, which comes in standard lengths. The previous tenants probably did the same, so it’s very likely that all the drywall in that specific rod height is majorly compromised. Is there any way you can hang your rod higher or lower and hem your curtains? Anchoring your rod into undamaged drywall (or even better, try to find the studs or header on either side and top of the window) and attach your brackets into that.
Lastly, do you have enough brackets holding up your curtain rod? We always include a center support bracket if the rod is wider than 60 inches. This helps distribute the weight better and keeps your curtain rod from sagging.
Hope this helps! I could give you a few more tips, but I’d need to see the kind of curtain hardware you’re using and the window you’re trying to hang it onto.
We use THESE when installing heavier drapery rods that can't be attached to a stud. Very sturdy, easy to work with, and removable in the future.
The stand is tripodal so you simply need something that can withstand the weight at those three points.
wickedpissa mentioned bedrisers which is the right idea - support the stand at it's three points with minimal equipment - but could be a little low on substantiality (not a word but best describes what I mean).
Because the stand will be much bulkier than, say, a bed riser, it will be prone to knocking the riser over. Something with more mass such as concrete block would not be prone to such a problem and would give you about 6 inches of rise.
Your next issue to overcome is that the rising of the stand will place the center of mass at a greater height than what the stand is designed for. When too high, the stand is liable to fall over. This can be resolved by either A) attaching to the wall (as seen in many tall pieces of furniture) or B) attaching the stand to the risers.
What I would do is take three concrete blocks from your local block and brick supplier and cover them in carpet (for aesthetics). Next, just plop the stand on top. Then use concrete or drywall anchors to bolt a wire to your wall. Then attach that wire to a point near the top of your stand to keep it from tipping.
No worries if they are metal studs. Just find the center of the stud and go through it with a step bit, pop in some toggle bolts and secure the bracket to the wall with the provided screws
DONE!
The mounts themselves are nice, but I do recommend getting better wall anchors, the ones they give you are shit. I ordered and used these.
There are shelving styles, and anchors that will hold 18 pounds. these anchors, for example Would definitely be strong enough, and there is a video on the product page if you scroll down, That will show you how to install.
http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B00GVK904A
Use these to mount L brackets off the wall, then put screws with the head chopped off into the bottom of your "feet" (the blue things in the 4 corners) and those will fit (hang) into the hole of the L bracket. I'll draw a picture... http://imgur.com/qtSSMo8
Can we see the front of that? I like lights :-)
AV installer here. A single stud is just fine for a tilt mount it will hold the weight and then some. And frankly you don’t need the 4 additional bolts. Bolts a drywall don’t mix you need drywall toggles and one on each side. The toggles are simply keeping the mount from rotating the strength is on the stud.
These are what I’m talking about:
https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=asc_df_B0051IARUE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312360540451&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10502080946968211216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060467&hvtargid=pla-641936376392&psc=1
$6.56 for a pack of 100 :D
You can use larger anchors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Self-Drilling/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633742&sr=1-6&keywords=drywall+anchors
OR Toggle Bolts like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633819&sr=1-4&keywords=toggle+bolts
I had the same situation on some floating shelves and used these:
Ansoon Zinc Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors with Screws Kit, 50 Pieces All Together https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVT1N4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BboQCbZWJDHYY
Work well and are strong. They do put giant holes in your drywall so if you ever take then down there will be some repair work. But one in the stud and one of these on each end and you'll be pretty safe.
These are my other favorite anchors for strength, but they are impossible to get out and have to be dead on or you won't be able to get the machine screw in.
https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/wall-anchor-for-speedbrace-series-workstation-brackets.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_search&utm_campaign=google_product_ads&source=googlebase&country=US&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnKHlBRDLARIsAMtMHDGfyWWIWPPaLJeQJbvJp86rIp1Of9KXM23ZDcScfMSkZ8bkj5k_9bsaAgx4EALw_wcB
You kinda can't, at least not easily. It's easy enough to fix holes in drywall by patching them, but those fixes are not really structural enough to hang a towel bar from unless you go big and cut a giagantic rectangle out of the drywall and hang a replacement drywall by screwing it into the studs.
But if you don't mind moving the bar up, down, left, or right a few inches you can just sink new drywall anchors into solid drywall and patch the old holes.
Alternately, there's giant "winged" toggle bolt drywall anchors that will be serious overkill to hold a towel bar but can go into the bigger hole.
They aren't drilled into a beam, I used anchors with the hooks. They're great and will ensure the hook wont go anywhere!
I haven’t done it, but some people apparently put these in their gun to act as snap caps when dry firing.
The Hillman Group 370326 Ribbed Plastic Screw Anchor, 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch, Yellow, 100-Pack.
The advantage to using these would be that The majority (all?) of “real” 22LR snap caps will eventually get dented from Firing pin strikes to the point that they are no longer serving the intended purpose. These screw anchors are disposable, so you just toss them when the rim becomes dented from your firing pin.
the drywall is either hung on 2x4 studs which is mounted to the cinder block wall, or for space and cost they could have mounted furring strips to the block wall, then attached the drywall. that outlet cover that you removed, how much space is in that cavity before block? is it a regular depth box?
What size TV are you going to hang? static mount our swing arm? whatever you do, after mounting the bracket hang from it. if it's holding your ass up there, it will hold a tv just fine.
if there is a cavity of space in there, there is probably solid wood holding up the drywall. lag bolts will be fine in the studs. if the block is real close, well then things get tricky. i'd probably suggest trying to butterfly anchor into the block.
http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B00GVK904A
i would also make sure your holes are still over the stud area, you will need that as a backing and support to any bolt/anchor you press against the drywall.
if you cant find studs, look into using these.
https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1468292016&sr=8-15&keywords=wall+anchor
I once had my Super Star Destroyer and an older X-wing and Tie on there.
These work great and are easy to use, just screw in the anchor then the provided screw
https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I
These should be more than enough Hollow Wall Anchor Screws Set, 6 Sizes Heavy Duty Zinc Plated Steel Molly Bolt Hollow Drive Wall Anchor Screws Assortment Kit for Drywall, Plaster and Tile, 48 PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN4DQNF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zuNpDbR2PYKBX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DL9MVN7/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got mine from a local hardware store. You could probably get away with something less, but I wanted to err on the side of caution.
These type of plastic anchors might be a solution to pressure dings from hard turns or knees or however they originate. The anchors would distribute the pressure down into the foam, instead of the pressure only being at the surface. Pressure dings can lead to delaminations.
Does anybody make surfboards using polyisocyanurate closed cell foam?
The plastic anchor will not work with plaster walls.
For that picture, I would attach a wire between the two hangers on the back of the frame, so you only need one hook in the wall.
You can use a molly bolt or toggle bolt if you are really worried about the weight.
I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.
If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.
If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.
For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.
For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.
It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.
You don't really need to find studs for mounting the lighthouses, although that is the simplest installation. Since the lighthouses are fairly light, drywall anchors similar to these will be more than strong enough to hold them if the ideal location doesn't happen to be near a stud.
This style anchor works wonders for hanging heavy shit in drywall. One will support the mirror, two will idiot proof it.
https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBDKW/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051IBDKW&pd_rd_r=5R9HHHZNZADDRNMBB44B&pd_rd_w=fAiNu&pd_rd_wg=C3sSs&psc=1&refRID=5R9HHHZNZADDRNMBB44B
You drill a hole, stick the metal base into the wall, and pull a plastic tab tight to the wall. Then cut the plastic wings, and you have a reusable threaded piece of metal permanently hanging on the wall. When you move the mirror and want to patch it, hit it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it will fall into the wall cleanly.
It's nice because you can take the hardware out as much as you need and the anchor will remain in place and reusable.
Use snap toggle bolts.
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Plastics-Toggler-Snaptoggle-10-Pack/dp/B00GVK904A
Please remember that the bolt is only going to be as strong as the wall. As always, if you want real strength, like putting heavy books on a shelf or mounting a tv or something, you're gonna have to find some studs.
Those are garbage. Throw them away. Get something like these instead.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_inmwCbW1JC7Z6
These might work TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 50) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0Z2IDbA64HQE7
Plaster also has lath behind it which was used as something for the plaster to grab onto. Thin pieces of wood that span the studs. If you use the zip anchors I posted above then they would grab the lath from behind using the wood as an anchor.
Tough call though cause if you somehow don't hit the lath your plaster is going to pull right out in a big chunk when you mount the object.
Maybe you've already thought of this, but it's possible you're hitting a screw or nail. I know you said the stud finder doesnt say metal is there.
Do you face the same issue if you move the installation up/down 3 inches? Are your curtains light enough to use these drywall screws?
(not moly screws.... Dont ever use molly screws).
Edit: still trying to figure out formatting in Reddit
Those are good bolts, you need to hold them so they don't spin while being tightened. Use a manual screw driver, not electric. You might find toggle bolts easier to use. The trick is to tighten them enough to hold but not so much that they crush the plaster. Patch the old holes and drill the new ones at least 50mm away. The weight is limited by the strength of the plasterboard. I wouldn't want to do more than a few kg on a ceiling. If you drill and bolt straight into the metal studs it can hold way more.
I've used these to replace plastic anchors holding a couple of towl racks to the wall. they have a larger diameter than the plastic anchor hole and so far have held up well.
You need these or these.
If I were you I'd go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVJF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uBS2Db90R31CG
As there isn't studs, anything that protrudes from the wall is applying alot of pulling force to any of the top screws. The wider mount keeps it close to the wall and gives you a much larger surface area to mount the hell out of the tv.
Id also use something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=drywall+anchors&qid=1574619039&sprefix=Drywall+an&sr=8-4
These are to give a bit more reliant hold to the drywall, not fantastic, but with enough of these (like 8-10 of them) with a static tv mount, you should be fine.
This all does depend on the weight of the tv and any angle you have the TV mounted at though.
Plastic Drywall Wall Anchors Screw Assortment Kit 300 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQ8K93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.KWDbA97D09M
Something like this from your local hardware store would definitely get you through this with minimal sweat and swearing 👍🏽👌🏽 and if you go to a local hardware store ask the person who works there, chances are they got your back.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370326-Ribbed-Plastic-100-Pack/dp/B000H5WVCS
Here is the mobile version of your link
I would drill through the cinderblock and use something like these (at least 4). I've used them countless times on drywall and block walls for mounting articulating mounts and I've yet to have one fail. Their adjustable nature will help deal with the extra space between your drywall and the interior of the blocks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051IAQN2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is there a reason why something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510756607&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolts
won't work?
These can hold a remarkable amount of weight.